North America, United States, Wyoming, Tetons, Peak 10552, Cathedral Rock, The Snaz

Publication Year: 1965.

Peak 10552, Cathedral Rock, The Snaz. This route ascends the west face of Cathedral Rock in the large dihedral cutting up the center of the face. Yvon Chouinard and Mort Hemple on August 4 pioneered this excellent IV, F9 route. After a steep step and a moderate pitch, the base of a jam crack was reached. This very difficult crack was climbed free to a chockstone where a belay was made. The next lead involved the direct passage of an F8 overhang. A detached flake then allowed the party to reach a second jam crack which was climbed to the base of an overhang; this was passed on the right to attain a belay ledge. After 80 feet up an open-book chimney, which started above the same overhang, a difficult traverse left on small holds led to a small belay ledge beneath a triangular overhang. An F8 pitch up and over this overhang was followed by another, partly in an F6 chimney. The final difficult pitch, an F7 chimney, led to easier rock where the angle eased considerably. F2 and F3 climbing sufficed to bring the climbers to a large, tree-covered ledge which cuts across the top part of the main vertical wall. An easy couloir for descent was found after a short traverse west along this ledge.