North America, Canada, British Columbia, Waddington Group, Coast Range

Publication Year: 1960.

Waddington Group, Coast Range. Several new routes were made in August from the Sierra Club climbing camp in the valleys south of Mount Waddington. An airdrop was placed on Whitetip Glacier near camp at Icefall Point. Good weather did not favor the 16 climbers. Ed Miller. Allen Steck, Doug Wendt and Jim Wilson climbed a new route on Mount Dauntless, the east ridge. Also ascents were made of a few small summits close to Dauntless. Arnold Guess, Dennis Rutovitz, Will Siri and I climbed Mount Munday by the north branch of the west glacier, a new route, from camp above the head of Corridor Glacier. The central and western (highest) summits were ascended. Arnold Guess, Ed and Jim Miller, Dennis Rutovitz and I pioneered a new route on Mount Jubilee via the forested east buttress and Jubilee Glacier, just under the southeast ridge. Jim Miller and Rutovitz chose a difficult two hour climb on bad rock to reach the summit from the southeast. This is one of the most scenically beautiful climbs I have ever made.

Earle R. Whipple