American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Harvard Mountaineering Club

  • Club Activities
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1957

Harvard Mountaineering Club. Last summer found club members relatively inactive in comparison with the activities of the summer of 1955. There was no major expedition organized by the club to South America or to the Himalayas, nor was there a climbing camp. However, several members were on independently organized expeditions. A party composed of Mike Wortis, Steve Jervis, Leo Slaggie, and Dave Toland attempted to climb Mount Assiniboine, but was turned back by bad weather conditions. The party then went to the Tetons, where its members climbed Symmetry Spire by the Jensen Ridge and the Durrance Ridge. Jervis, Wortis, and Toland then visited Devils Tower, which they climbed by a route recently laid out by Army climbers.

Ken Henderson organized a trip to Iceland which included Caspar Cronk and Frank Gaebelein. Hvannadalshnukyr, Hekla, Herðubreið, Snaefell, and Loðmunder were the major peaks climbed. Earl Whipple, after attending the Canadian Alpine Club camp at Glacier, B.C., climbed in the Coast Range. With another climber, he climbed high on the south face of Mount Waddington, spending one night on the face before turning back for lack of iron. Other members climbed in northern British Columbia and in Alaska.

Locally, the club had an active fall season. Besides trips to nearby rocks with instruction for beginners, there were excursions to the Shawangunks in New York and to Mount Washington in New Hampshire. The club continues to stress safety, giving first-aid classes and belay practice. A telephone line was laid in Huntington Ravine to supplement the first-aid cache which was installed last year. Plans for the 1957 summer include another climbing camp to train new leaders and to introduce some of the younger members to expedition mountaineering. The club also hopes to have a small party in Peru.

Casper Cronk, President

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