Harvard Mountaineering Club

Publication Year: 1956.

Harvard Mountaineering Club. In keeping with a general rise in interest in mountaineering, 1955 was the most active year in club history. Undergraduate, graduate, and alumni members were active in major expeditions to all parts of the world.

The most ambitious project was Harry Francis’ Karakoram Expedition composed of one undergraduate and five graduate members, described previously in this Journal. It is felt that this wholly successful venture will encourage other expeditions to regions previously thought out of reach to qualified college mountaineers.

The club’s fourth climbing camp led by Ted Scudder was as successful as the previous three in teaching the safe techniques in big mountains for beginners. Nineteen climbers made 13 ascents including two probable first ascents in the Mt. Purity area of the Southern Selkirks.

Club members also made spectacular first ascents in the Logan Mountains of Canada’s Northwest Territories, also described previously. A four- man party climbed in the Purcell Range, turning back from unclimbed Mt. Stockdale (10,100 feet) because of unexpectedly difficult rock pitches near the summit. Dave Bernays participated in the first ascent of the Central Spire of Howser and with Fran Harris did the third ascent of the North Ridge of Mt. Baker (first ascent for a female). Club members climbed in the Wind Rivers, doing a second ascent of Shark’s Nose and several other peaks. Others climbed in the American and Canadian Rockies, as well as the Grand Teton.

On the local scene, week-end respite from textbooks was found by many at the Shawangunk and New Hampshire climbing areas this fall. The winter program has begun with unprecedented enthusiasm, with excellent ice climbing available in New Hampshire.

The usual intensive safety program continues with belay practices and first-aid instruction. A much needed first-aid cache has been installed high up in Mt. Washington’s Huntington Ravine by the club. It is equipped to handle any winter or summer accident.

Craig Merrihue, President