Asia, India, Kamet and Abi Gamin

Publication Year: 1956.

Kamet and Abi Gamin. An all-Indian expedition made a remarkable record in Garhwal in 1955, accomplishing the second ascent of Kamet (25,447 feet) and the third ascent of Abi Gamin (24,130 feet). The party under the direction of Major Narendra D. Jayal, who is the principal of the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute, Darjeeling, was made up of 10 climbers and five Sherpa Instructors. After an unsuccessful try on June 28, Jayal, Ang Tharkay, Da Namgyal, Ang Temba, and Hlakpa Dorje made the summit from Camp 5 (23,400 feet) near Meade’s Col on July 6. The route differed from that used on Frank S. Smythe’s first ascent up the northeast face; this year the climbers followed the ridge that links Abi Gamin with Kamet. On the same day a party under Gurdial Singh climbed Abi Gamin, using Jayal’s 1953 route. The Anglo-Swiss first ascent of 1950 was from the Tibetan side.