American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

All AAJ Accidents Alpina Americana

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Records Found: 222

Title Publication Year
Rappel Error—Ropes Uneven, Colorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park, Hand Crack
Rappel Error—Ropes Uneven, Colorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park, Hand Crack

RAPPEL ERROR—ROPES UNEVEN

Colorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park, Hand Crack

On June

ANAM
Accident Reports
1996
Rappel Error—Clipped to One Rope, Fall on Rock, Oregon, Smith Rock State Park
Rappel Error—Clipped to One Rope, Fall on Rock, Oregon, Smith Rock State Park

RAPPEL ERROR—CLIPPED TO ONE ROPE, FALL ON ROCK

Oregon, Smith Rock State Park

On

ANAM
Accident Reports
1996
Darkness, Stranded, Rappel Error—Rope Jammed, Colorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park, Red Garden Wall
Darkness, Stranded, Rappel Error—Rope Jammed, Colorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park, Red Garden Wall

DARKNESS, STRANDED, RAPPEL ERROR—ROPE JAMMED

Colorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park, Red

ANAM
Accident Reports
1996
Rappel Error — Inadequate Protection, Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount Murchison, Murchison Falls
Rappel Error — Inadequate Protection, Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount Murchison, Murchison Falls

RAPPEL ERROR—INADEQUATE PROTECTION

Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount Murchison, Murchison

ANAM
Accident Reports
1998
Fall on Rock, Rappel Error—Anchor Knot Failed, Utah, Wasatch Mountains, Big Cottonwood Canyon
Fall on Rock, Rappel Error—Anchor Knot Failed, Utah, Wasatch Mountains, Big Cottonwood Canyon

FALL ON ROCK, RAPPEL ERROR—ANCHOR KNOT FAILED

Utah, Wasatch Mountains, Big Cottonwood

ANAM
Accident Reports
1996
Rappel Error—Did Not Secure Rappel Anchor Sling, Colorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park
Rappel Error—Did Not Secure Rappel Anchor Sling, Colorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park

RAPPEL ERROR—DID NOT SECURE RAPPEL ANCHOR SLING

Colorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park

ANAM
Accident Reports
1997
Rappel Error at Smith Rock
Oregon, Smith Rock, Rope de Dope Block
Rappel Error at Smith Rock
>ANALYSIS

The exact error involved in this incident is unknown. Based on the scene

ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Rappel Error—Fall on Rock, California, Owens River Gorge, China Wall
Rappel Error—Fall on Rock, California, Owens River Gorge, China Wall

RAPPEL ERROR—FALL ON ROCK

California, Owens River Gorge, China Wall

On February 4

ANAM
Accident Reports
2007
Rappel Error — No Back-Up Belay and No Knot on Rope End, Colorado, Boulder Canyon
Rappel Error — No Back-Up Belay and No Knot on Rope End, Colorado, Boulder Canyon

RAPPEL ERROR - NO BACK-UP BELAY AND NO KNOT ON ROPE END

Colorado, Boulder Canyon

On

ANAM
Accident Reports
2011
Falls on Rock (7), Protection Pulled Out (2), Inadequate Protection, Rappel Errors (2), Belay Error, New York, Mohonk Preserve, Shawangunks
Falls on Rock (7), Protection Pulled Out (2), Inadequate Protection, Rappel Errors (2), Belay Error

FALLS ON ROCK (7), PROTECTION PULLED OUT (2), INADEQUATE PROTECTION, RAPPEL ERRORS (2), BELAY

ANAM
Accident Reports
2012
Fall on Rock — Rappel Error, Utah, Big Cottonwood Canyon
Fall on Rock — Rappel Error, Utah, Big Cottonwood Canyon

FALL ON ROCK - RAPPEL ERROR

Utah, Big cottonwood Canyon

On May 5, a man (22

ANAM
Accident Reports
2009
Various Falls on Rock and Inadequate Protection, Rappel Error, Dislodged Rock, New York, Mohonk Preserve, Shawangunks
Various Falls on Rock and Inadequate Protection, Rappel Error, Dislodged Rock, New York, Mohonk

VARIOUS FALLS ON ROCK and INADEQUATE PROTECTION, RAPPEL

ERROR, DISLODGED ROCK

New

ANAM
Accident Reports
1998
Fall on Rock — Rappel Error, Oregon, Beacon Rock State Park
Fall on Rock — Rappel Error, Oregon, Beacon Rock State Park

FALL ON ROCK – RAPPEL ERROR

Oregon, Beacon Rock State Park

On July 24, Nathan Turner

ANAM
Accident Reports
2012
Fall on Rock, Rappel Error—Failure to Equalize Ends of Rappel Rope, and Failure to Tie Knots in the End, California, Joshua Tree National Park, Solid Gold
Fall on Rock, Rappel Error—Failure to Equalize Ends of Rappel Rope, and Failure to Tie Knots in the

FALL ON ROCK, RAPPEL ERROR-FAILURE TO EQUALIZE ENDS OF RAPPEL ROPE, AND FAILURE TO TIE KNOTS IN

ANAM
Accident Reports
2007
Fall on Rock - Rappel Error
California, Yosemite Valley, Royal Arches
Fall on Rock - Rappel Error
. Possible (likely) talus fracture and ankle sprain. Always tie end-knots and back up rappel.” (Source wishes
ANAM
Accident Reports
2013
Rappel Error—Only Connected to One Strand of Rappel Rope, Alaska, Anchorage, Hunter Creek
Rappel Error—Only Connected to One Strand of Rappel Rope, Alaska, Anchorage, Hunter Creek

RAPPEL ERROR—ONLY CONNECTED TO ONE STRAND OF RAPPEL ROPE

Alaska, Anchorage, Hunter Creek

ANAM
Accident Reports
1997
Slip on MIxed Terrain, Rappel Error, Fatigue, Dehydration, British Columbia, Tantalus Range, Mount Dione
Slip on MIxed Terrain, Rappel Error, Fatigue, Dehydration, British Columbia, Tantalus Range, Mount

SLIP ON MIXED TERRAIN, RAPPEL ERROR, FATIGUE, DEHYDRATION

British Columbia, Tantalus Range

ANAM
Accident Reports
2001
Slip on Rock, Rappel Error — Poor Technique, Inadequate Instruction and Supervision, Virginia, Hidden Rocks
Slip on Rock, Rappel Error — Poor Technique, Inadequate Instruction and Supervision, Virginia

SLIP ON ROCK, RAPPEL ERROR - POOR TECHNIQUE, INADEQUATE INSTRUCTION AND SUPERVISION


ANAM
Accident Reports
2011
Stranded—Rappel Rope Too Short, Arizona, Camelback Mountain
Stranded—Rappel Rope Too Short, Arizona, Camelback Mountain
largest error in estimating the length of rope needed for a rappel. Enough said.)


ANAM
Accident Reports
2001
Rappel Error, No Backup, Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Tunnel Mountain
Rappel Error, No Backup, Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Tunnel Mountain

RAPPEL ERROR, NO BACKUP

Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Tunnel Mountain

On March 11, 1993

ANAM
Accident Reports
1994
Rappel Error—Only Connected to One Strand of Rappel Rope, Alaska, Anchorage, Hunter Creek
Rappel Error—Only Connected to One Strand of Rappel Rope, Alaska, Anchorage, Hunter Creek

RAPPEL ERROR—ROPE NOT ANCHORED, NO BELAY

Arizona, Oak Creek Canyon

On April 13

ANAM
Accident Reports
1997
Rappel Error — Faulty Use of Equipment, Stranded, Inexperience, Poor Route Research, Alberta, Jasper National Park, Morrow Peak
Rappel Error — Faulty Use of Equipment, Stranded, Inexperience, Poor Route Research, Alberta

RAPPEL ERROR – FAULTY USE OF EQUIPMENT, STRANDED, INEXPERIENCE, POOR ROUTE RESEARCH


ANAM
Accident Reports
2010
Rappel Error — Inadequate Anchor, Alberta, Bow Falls
Rappel Error — Inadequate Anchor, Alberta, Bow Falls

RAPPEL ERROR—INADEQUATE ANCHOR

Alberta, Bow Falls

On Feb. 23 around noon, a party

ANAM
Accident Reports
1998
Rappel Error—Anchor Sling Knot Came Undone, North Carolina, Pilot Mountain State Park
Rappel Error—Anchor Sling Knot Came Undone, North Carolina, Pilot Mountain State Park

RAPPEL ERROR—ANCHOR SUNG KNOT CAME UNDONE

North Carolina, Pilot Mountain State Park


ANAM
Accident Reports
1999
Rappel Error, Rope Failed—Inadequate Equipment, Utah, Millcreek Canyon
Rappel Error, Rope Failed—Inadequate Equipment, Utah, Millcreek Canyon

RAPPEL ERROR, ROPE FAILED–INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT

Utah, Millcreek Canyon

On August 16

ANAM
Accident Reports
2002
Falls on Rock (16), Falling Rock (1), Rappel Error (1), Inadequate Protection (10), Protectin Pulled out (4) Inadequate Belay (3), No Hard Hat (1), New York, Mohonk Preserve, Shawnagunks, Various Routes
Falls on Rock (16), Falling Rock (1), Rappel Error (1), Inadequate Protection (10), Protectin

FALLS ON ROCK (16), FALLING ROCK (1), RAPPEL ERROR (1), INADEQUATE PROTECTION (10), PROTECTION

ANAM
Accident Reports
2009
Rappel Error—Only Clipped into One Rope, No Belay, Ontario, Milton, Kelso Conservation Area, "Jolly Rodger" Route
Rappel Error—Only Clipped into One Rope, No Belay, Ontario, Milton, Kelso Conservation Area, "

RAPPEL ERROR—ONLY CLIPPED INTO ONE ROPE, NO RELAY, NO HARD HAT

Ontario, Milton, Kelso

ANAM
Accident Reports
1996
Rappel Error — Webbing Anchor Not Tied, Fall on Rock — New York, Mohonk Preserve, Shawangunks
Rappel Error — Webbing Anchor Not Tied, Fall on Rock — New York, Mohonk Preserve, Shawangunks

RAPPEL ERROR – WEBBING ANCHOR NOT TIED, FALL ON ROCK

New York, Mohonk Preserve

ANAM
Accident Reports
2000
Fall on Rock—Rappel Error, No Hard Hat, Colorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park, Rincon
Fall on Rock—Rappel Error, No Hard Hat, Colorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park, Rincon

FALL ON ROCK–RAPPEL ERROR, NO HARD HAT

Colorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park, Rincon


ANAM
Accident Reports
2006
Rappel Error — Threaded Ropes Incorrectly, Fall on Rock, Colorado, Garden of the Gods, Red Twin Spire
Rappel Error — Threaded Ropes Incorrectly, Fall on Rock, Colorado, Garden of the Gods, Red Twin

RAPPEL ERROR – THREADED ROPES INCORRECTLY, FALL ON ROCK

Colorado, Garden of the Gods, Red

ANAM
Accident Reports
2010
Rappel Error — Carabiner Gate Not Closed, No Hard Hat, Colorado, Boulder Canyon, Boulderado Crag
Rappel Error — Carabiner Gate Not Closed, No Hard Hat, Colorado, Boulder Canyon, Boulderado Crag

RAPPEL ERROR - CARABINER GATE NOT CLOSED, NO HARD HAT

Colorado, Boulder Canyon, Boulderado

ANAM
Accident Reports
2011
Stranded, Rappel Error — Rope Too Short, North Carolina, Hanging Rock State Park, Moore's Wall
Stranded, Rappel Error — Rope Too Short, North Carolina, Hanging Rock State Park, Moore's Wall

STRANDED, RAPPEL ERROR – ROPE TOO SHORT

North Carolina, Hanging Rock State Park, Moore's

ANAM
Accident Reports
2012
Rappel Anchor Error—Inadequate Protection, Fall on Rock, No Hard Hat, Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Lumpy Ridge
Rappel Anchor Error—Inadequate Protection, Fall on Rock, No Hard Hat, Colorado, Rocky Mountain

RAPPEL ANCHOR ERROR—INADEQUATE PROTECTION, FALL ON ROCK, NO HARD HAT

Colorado, Rocky

ANAM
Accident Reports
1996
Rappel Error — Rope Tangled, Stranded, Inexperience, Darkness, Inadequate Equipment — No Head Lamp, Alabama, Pelham
Rappel Error — Rope Tangled, Stranded, Inexperience, Darkness, Inadequate Equipment — No Head Lamp

RAPPEL ERROR—ROPE TANGLED, STRANDED, INEXPERIENCE, DARKNESS, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT—NO HEAD LAMP

ANAM
Accident Reports
1998
Rappel Error - Inadequate Protection, Climbing Alone, Inexperienced
New York, Albany, Thatcher Park
Rappel Error - Inadequate Protection, Climbing Alone, Inexperienced
to police. “He had a harness and rope with him. It appears it was human error as far as attaching it
ANAM
Accident Reports
2014
Falls on Rock (16), Inadequate Protection (3), Inadequate Belays (4), Rappel/Lowering Errors (2), Falling Rock (1)
New York, Mohonk Preserve, Shawanhunks
Falls on Rock (16), Inadequate Protection (3), Inadequate Belays (4), Rappel/Lowering Errors (2
; there was one rappel error (no knot in rope ends) and one lowering error (protection that rope was
ANAM
Accident Reports
2014
Fall on Rock, Rappel Error—Protection Pulled Out, British Columbia, Purcell Mountains, Eastpost Spire
Fall on Rock, Rappel Error—Protection Pulled Out, British Columbia, Purcell Mountains, Eastpost

FALL ON ROCK, RAPPEL ERROR-PROTECTION PULLED OUT

British Columbia, Purcell Mountains

ANAM
Accident Reports
2006
Fall on Rock, Lowering Error—Lost Control of Belay and No Knot in End of Rope, No Hard Hat, Colorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park, Rincon
Fall on Rock, Lowering Error—Lost Control of Belay and No Knot in End of Rope, No Hard Hat

FALL ON ROCK, LOWERING ERROR-LOST CONTROL OF BELAY AND NO KNOT IN END OF ROPE, NO HARD HAT


ANAM
Accident Reports
2007
Falls on Rock (17), Protection Pulled Out (7), Inadequate Protection (4), Belay Errors (4), Rappel Error, New York, Mohonk Preserve, Shawangunks
Falls on Rock (17), Protection Pulled Out (7), Inadequate Protection (4), Belay Errors (4), Rappel
), RAPPEL ERROR

New York, Mohonk Preserve, Shawangunks

Twenty reports were submitted for 2010

ANAM
Accident Reports
2011
Fall on Rock, Rappel Error — Failed to Clip into Anchor
California, Joshua Tree National Park, Saddle Rock
Fall on Rock, Rappel Error — Failed to Clip into Anchor

On August 16, a man (36) was critically injured when he lost control of his rappel and fell

ANAM
Accident Reports
2012
Rappel Error — Slack in Rope, Fall on Rock — Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Twin Owls
Rappel Error — Slack in Rope, Fall on Rock — Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Twin Owls

RAPPEL ERROR – SLACK IN ROPE, FALL ON ROCK

Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Twin

ANAM
Accident Reports
2000
Rappel Error — Fall to Ground, Unfamiliar with Equipment, Wyoming Grand Teton National Park, Grand Teton
Rappel Error — Fall to Ground, Unfamiliar with Equipment, Wyoming Grand Teton National Park, Grand

RAPPEL ERROR - FALL TO GROUND, UNFAMILIAR WITH EQUIPMENT

Wyoming, Grand Teton National

ANAM
Accident Reports
2009
Falls on Rock (7), Rappel Errors (4), Poor Position (3), Exceeding Abilities (3), Inadquate Protection, No Helmet, No Helmets
New York, Mohonk Preserve, Shawangunks
Falls on Rock (7), Rappel Errors (4), Poor Position (3), Exceeding Abilities (3), Inadquate
) “an error in the rappel set-up” that resulted in a ground fall and fractures. The average age of the
ANAM
Accident Reports
2013
Fall on Rock, Rappel Error - Uneven Ropes, No Knots
North Carolina, Crowders Mountain State Park, Practice Wall
Fall on Rock, Rappel Error - Uneven Ropes, No Knots
rappelling Burn Crack (5.10c) on the Practice Wall. He was on rappel with an ATC when one of the
ANAM
Accident Reports
2015
Rappel Error
Georgia, Pigeon Mountain, Rocktown
Rappel Error
>ANALYSIS

Although it’s unknown what caused this climber to become detached from her rappel

ANAM
Accident Reports
2016
Rappel Error – Uneven Ropes, No Stopper Knots
Oregon, Smith Rock, Cocaine Gully
Rappel Error – Uneven Ropes, No Stopper Knots
to rappel from the anchor. She established the rappel and started down, but 25 feet above the ground
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Rappel Failure—Error in Anchoring, Inexperience, Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount Rundle 
Rappel Failure—Error in Anchoring, Inexperience, Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount Rundle 

RAPPEL FAILURE—ERROR IN ANCHORING, INEXPERIENCE

Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount Rundle

ANAM
Accident Reports
1996
Rappel Error - Off Route, Inadequate Equipment
Canada, British Columbia, Penticton, Skaha Bluffs
Rappel Error - Off Route, Inadequate Equipment
rappel with a 60-meter rope, leaving no margin for error. A safer option would be to haul a second rope
ANAM
Accident Reports
2015
Rappel Error—No Backup/Belay, Inexperience, Weather, British Columbia, Park Range, Watchtower Peak
Rappel Error—No Backup/Belay, Inexperience, Weather, British Columbia, Park Range, Watchtower Peak

RAPPEL ERROR—NO RACKUP/RELAY, INEXPERIENCE, WEATHER British Columbia, Park Range, Watchtower

ANAM
Accident Reports
1994
Rappel Error—Failure to Check Anchor, Inadequate Protection, North Carolina, Shiprock, Hindu Kush
Rappel Error—Failure to Check Anchor, Inadequate Protection, North Carolina, Shiprock, Hindu Kush

RAPPEL ERROR–FAILURE TO CHECK ANCHOR, INADEQUATE PROTECTION

North Carolina, Shiprock

ANAM
Accident Reports
2006