American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

26625 Records

Title Publication Year
Mt. Humphreys, North Pillar of East Face
On July 28, Dave Spies, Steven Stosky, and I climbed what we believe to be a new route up the east ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Mt. Whitney Area, Upper Boy Scout Lake, The Magic Mushroom
In July, I backpacked to Upper Boy Scout Lake with my friend Steve Yamamoto and my wife Giselle Field. It ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Mt. Chamberlin, Until the Wheels Fall Off
In early August, Becca Pilkerton and I approached Mt. Chamberlin (13,175’) from Cottonwood Pass. After a day of swimming and staring ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
San Joaquin River Gorge, Confluence Dome, New Routes
In September, Cristina Engel, Neal Harder, and I established the first known technical routes on Confluence Dome (37.445315, -119.242106), located at ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Patterson Bluffs, The Money Shot
In October, Brian Prince and I completed the Money Shot (9 pitches, 5.11 C1), a spectacularly steep route that climbs the left ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Tokopah Valley: 1,000 Piece Meal Deal, Knotfest
In July, Neal Harder, Sebastian Thau, and I established a nearly 1,000' route on the east side of Lower Tokapah ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Lubken Creek Canyon, Rusty Trinkets
AN ATTRACTIVE and sheer granitic wall juts out of the North Fork of Lubken Creek Canyon, south of Tuttle ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Checkered Demon, Northeast Arête, Dancing with the Devil
MANY HUNDREDS have passed by the Checkered Demon (13,121’) while descending from the adjacent and popular East Arête of Mt. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Bubbs Creek Wall, Panda Express
During the summer of 2017, Adam Sheppard, Daniel Jeffcoach, and I went out to Bubbs Creek Wall and attempted a line ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Sawmill Canyon, Sawmill Spire
On October 20, Myles Moser, Amy Ness, and I hiked into the mouth of rugged Sawmill Canyon from the edge of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Wheeler Crest, New Routes
SCOTT SINNER AND I FOUND the formation we named the Black Obelisk by accident after following some bad guidebook ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Ice Couloirs Above Bishop
OVER TWO SEASONS, in the winter and fall of 2018, several partners and I did first ascents of three ice couloirs ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Mt. Le Conte, Space Force
Since Roger Putnam and I are in the process of writing a guidebook to the High Sierra, we had planned ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
The Cleaver, Dot the T’s and Dreamliner
In late May and June, Shaun Reed and I made two quick trips to climb on the southeast face of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Third Recess Peak, Direct Northeast Buttress
The day after a climb on the Ruby Wall in September, Maxim Belyakov and I decided to check out Third ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Mt. Ericcson Area, New Routes
In mid-May, Chaz Langlier and I made a trip to East Lake, south of the Bubbs Creek drainage, a beautiful ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Lone Pine Peak, New Route and First Free Ascents
Ever since Roger Putnam and I started to work on a complete guide to the High Sierra, I became increasingly ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
North Fork of Granite Creek, New Routes
I met Pete Cutler in Patagonia during the winter of 2017. Since he lives in Des Moines, Iowa, and has a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Tamarack Lake Area, New Routes
In August, Jake Smith and I headed into the Sierra, planning to join friends at Tamarack Lake in the Lone ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Langille Peak, Three Quarters of a Man and Clarification
In September 2018, Vitaliy Musiyenko and Brian Prince climbed a new route on the southeast face of Langille Peak in LeConte ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Zion Wall Routes, Free Ascents, and Virgin Peaks
The 2,000-foot-high south face of Abraham in Zion’s Court of the Patriarchs, showing the 2018 routes (1) Munkuntuwap and (2) Pangea. Earlier ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
The Nose Under Two Hours
ON JUNE 6, ALEX HONNOLD AND I managed to climb the Nose in 1:58:07 after 11 previous attempts. We had toyed with ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2019
Yosemite Valley Annual Summary
El Capitan continued to produce firsts and speed records in 2018, and a handful of significant new aid and free lines ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Welcome to the Thunderdome
MARCH 2018 Our skis etch crisp lines in a crystalline mat of snow, broken only where we’d stopped to gawk ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2019
Anvers Island: Mt. Français Traverse; Mt. Nestor, West Ridge; Mt. Achilles, North Face
An Australian team—Dave Goldie, Andrew Lock, Liam Silk, and Pat Spiers—visited Anvers Island in February 2019 ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Holtedahl Peaks, Various Ascents
In January 2019, on his fifth expedition to Queen Maud Land, veteran polar guide Christoph Höbenreich from Austria led Michael ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Puscanturpa Norte, Macondo
In July, Colombian climbers Rafa Avila, Diego Cortés, Jhoany Poveda, Luis Ossa, Victor Ortega, and Alex Torres organized an ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Cerro Punta Yamakawa, South Face, Ski Descent
On October 13, Diego Saez Beros, Adam Fabrikant, and I made a ski descent of the south face of Cerro Punta ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Cerro Mangiafuoco, East Ridge
Paolo Marazzi and I set off from Italy on December 24, 2018. Once at Puerto Bertrand, we waited in vain for a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
First Ascents in the Exploradores Valley: Cerro Cheuco, Cerro Pinuer, Cerro Caballo
After four years of working in the Exploradores Valley, west of Puerto Río Tranquilo (toward the west end of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
No Stereoscopic Vision: Off the Map on the Erasmus Icefield, a Forgotten Corner of Patagonia
In the winter of 2006, during a plane flight to San Rafael Lagoon to begin the first north-south winter crossing of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Cerro Cuerno de Plata, Second Known Ascent
In December 2017, Australian climbers Colin Barton, Callum Hawkins, Paul Plank, Geoff Robb, Annette Skirka, Raymond Alfred Smith, Neil Thomas, and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
First ascents of Cerro Nylandia, “Cerro Fernando,” and “Cerro Akila”
From September 25 to October 13, the French national women’s mountaineering team (ENAF), comprised of Florence Igier, Johanna Marcoz, Marion Pravin, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Cerro Aguda (West Summit), West Ridge
In February, Itai Cohen, Elaine Kennedy, and I made an ascent of the west ridge of Cerro Aguda (2,641m; 46°48'51.74"...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Chaltén Massif and Torres del Paine: 2018–2019 Season Summary
This was the third season in a row with fairly poor weather and conditions. After having anomalously dry seasons in 2012, 2015, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Cerro Dalla Vedova and Cerro Stoppani, First Ascents
In October 2018, Chilean mountaineers Harry Brito, Camilo Hornauer, and I made the first ascents of Cerro Dalla Vedova (2,271m) and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Avellano Towers, The Tooth, South-southeast Face; Aonikenk, Aumkenk Aike
In January 2018, our three-woman team from the U.K., comprised of Michelle O’Loughlin, Freja Shannon, and me set off ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Traverse of Nevados de Famatina
In August, Argentines Griselda Moreno (leader), Ramiro García, Paula Miranda, and Lelo Saldaña made the first traverse of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Avellano Towers, Skyline Traverse
From February 8–26, 2018, Rodrigo Lobo Villarroel (Bolivia) and I completed a trip to the Avellano Towers. We approached from Chile Chico ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Rajuntay, Northeast Face; Rajuntay Norte, Northeast Couloir
The Cordillera de la Viuda is a subrange of the Cordillera Central ( see Alpine Journal 2000 for more details about the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Serratus Mountain, North Buttress
IT HAD ALL gone wrong. I sat drinking beer in the Edinburgh evening sun, grumpy and frustrated about my flight&...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Chambe, Northwest Face, Passion and Pain
The high-quality, compact granite in Malawi is so impressive, it leaves one wondering why it has been largely ignored by ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Limits of the Known
LIMITS OF THE KNOWN. David Roberts. Norton, 2018. Hardcover, 336 pages, $26.95. If I could choose a title for this book, I ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2019
Tides: A Climber's Voyage
TIDES: A CLIMBER’S VOYAGE.  Nick Bullock. Vertebrate Publishing, 2018. Paperback, 256 pages, £14.95. When I picked up Nick Bullock’s second ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2019
Great Spitzkoppe, Northwest Face, Mamba No. 5, and Other New Routes
In early 2016 a friend and mountain guide from South Africa, Neil Margetts, sent me a photograph taken from a small ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
The Sphinx, Mazaroca Ardiente
Argentine climbers Lucas Alzamora, Carloncho Guerra, and Diego Nakamura visited northern Mozambique during September, inspired by photos of the granite ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Nanga Parbat, Rupal Face, Attempted Variation to Messner Route
Climbing in alpine style, Czech climbers Marek Holeček and Tomáš Petreček planned to attempt a new ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Solo on Lupghar Sar West
On July 7 I reached the summit of Lupghar Sar West (7,157m) via the previously untouched west face . (This peak ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Hainabrakk East Tower, Southeast Face, Heinous Broccoli Robbery
Jonathan Schaffer and I climbed a new route on the left side of the southeast face of Hainabrakk East Tower. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Gasherbrum II, Southwest Face
On July 16, Felix Berg (German) and Adam Bielecki (Poland) climbed a partial new route on Gasherbrum II (8,034m). The pair ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019