American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

26196 Records

Title Publication Year
Liberty Bell, Live Free or Die!
The east face of Liberty Bell in the North Cascades is the most easily accessible major wall in the state . ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Gangapurna West, North Face, Attempt
Simon Messner and Phillip Pruenster (Italy) planned to attempt the north side of Gangapurna West (a.k.a. Asapurna, 7,140...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Ulamertorssuaq and Nalumasortoq, New Routes
In July 2016, Georg Hoedle, Martin Lopez Abad, and I disembarked in Tasermiut Fjord with food and provisions for one month . ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
First Solo Ascent of Mt. Geikie’s North Face
The 1,200-meter north face of Mt. Geikie, showing approximate lines  of various ascents. Tony McLane's solo ascent is ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Revelation Mountains, First Ascents
CAN A PLACE be remote but accessible at the same time? Thanks to the impressive skills of our pilot, Paul ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Pik Chapaev, Saber; Pik Irbis, First Ascent via North Face
The Khan Tengri base camp (ca 4,000m) on the South Inylchek Glacier is a crossroad of both time and people. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Arrigetch Peaks, Xanadu, Un Pas Més
Last summer I spent 53 days in the Arrigetch—36 days hauling loads and 17 days on the west face of Xanadu, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Barnaj I, Northeast Buttress
Barnaj I (6,370m GPS) is a mountain that beckons to be climbed. After my 2014 attempt on the north buttress with ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Burke Khang, South Face and Southeast Ridge
On May 23, 2014, as I was hunkered down in my tent at high camp on the north side of Mt. Everest, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Lajo Dada (a.k.a. Langu Himal), Northern Glacier and West-Northwest Ridge
On October 17 three young climbers from the Tomon Alpine Club—Norifumi Fukuda, a senior student at Waseda University, and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Pucarashta Central, South Face
The expedition of the Female Mountaineering Team of the Spanish Federation of Mountain Sports and Climbing (FEDME) visited the Cordillera ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Allinccapac II, Gabarriti, Incaccapac, and Other Ascents
After a fruitful trip to the Cordillera Carabaya in 2016 ( see 2017 AAJ report ) , Aaron and Jeanne Zimmerman (USA) and I returned ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Cerro Mariposa, Produci Consuma Crepa
Paolo Marazzi and I (both Ragni de Lecco members) traveled to Argentina in February with the goal of climbing Cerro ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Cerro Kuralemu, El Camino del Puma
Through our constant pursuit of discovering overlooked places in our majestic backyard cordillera , Max Didier, my brother Diego Señoret, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Trinidad Sur, Arrayan
In February 2017, Trevor Boley, Kyle Kent, Rhane Pfeiffer, Cooper Varney, and I established a new route on Trinidad Sur . I ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Puño Este, Half-Cocked
In January 2016, Jim Donini and I climbed a new route on Puño  Este (ca 2,050m), a peak just ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Split Mountain, Isengard; Madeline Wall, Kids in the Haul
The northeast face of Split Mountain, near Terrace, B.C.,presents an outrageous prow of granite rising out of the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Robert John Secor, 1956 ­­– 2017
ROBERT JOHN SECOR, mountaineer, guidebook author, and adventurer, passed away on October 26 at the young age of 61 . R.J., as ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2018
Chola Shan, Chola I, South-Southeast Spur and West Ridge
In August, an American-Chinese team likely became the first to stand atop the highest point of the Chola Shan. There ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Danphe Shail, First Ascent by Southwest Face
Just open a map of Dolpo and look at the far top, along the Nepal-Tibet border . There are very few ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Recon: The Cirque of the Unclimbables
"Is OK? Is OK?” The heavily accented voice crackled in the worn headset protecting my ears from the rattle-hum of ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2017
Monarch Mountain, Southwest Face, and Other Ascents
ON JULY 28, Micha Rinn from Germany and I flew by helicopter to the col between Monarch Mountain and Page Mountain ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Nangpai Gosum I, Southwest Face via South Summit
At 10:24 a.m. on October 3, I reached the summit of Nangpai Gosum I (7,321m, see editor's note below ) all alone. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Tharke Kang, Northwest Ridge
Tharke Kang (6,710m) is a newly opened summit that sits on the northwest ridge of Hungchi (7,029m). This ridge rises ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Hayden Peak, The Kennedy Route
Less than a week after my friend Hayden Kennedy’s death, I headed to the Uintas to scout for ice. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Ostler Peak, Siren Song
The sound echoed off the cliffs, intermittent yet consistent. I kept hearing it over and over but could not place ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Johnson Mountain, True Believers
Over the course of several years, with myriad different partners, I established a new route on Johnson Mountain (6,120’), just south ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
The Watchman: First Ascent of Surf’s Up and First Free Ascent of Cradle to Grave
In March, I finished a new free line on the west face of the Watchman called Surf’s Up (1,000’, IV 5.12...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Leader Fall and Mild Head Injury
On July 23, an experienced male climber (age 24) was leading Reaching Conclusions, a 5.10a sport route at Reed’s Creek (near ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2018
Leader Fall Onto Ledge – Inexperience
On the morning of October 28, and with rain forecasted to begin by midday, my girlfriend, Liza Mindemann (age 33), and I (...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2018
Ground Fall – Protection Pulled Out
On June 25, at approximately 3:25 p.m., a male climber (age 27) fell while leading Black and Tan, a 5.10a trad line ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2018
Albatross, Direct South Face; Xanadu, Arctic Knight
THE NEWS THAT I’d been hired to work in the emergency department of a large trauma center was bittersweet. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Northern Patagonian Ice Field Exploration
In late 2017, Gabriel Fava, Joaquin Gomez (both Argentina), and I traveled to the central-eastern part of the little-visited Northern Patagonian ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Langtang Lirung, East Face and Northeast Ridge, Using Paragliders to Attempt High Peaks in Nepal’s Langtang Himal
There are a number of attractive unclimbed faces in the Himalaya that have not even been attempted because the approach ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Dogtooth, First Ascent
Never have I sandbagged my friends or myself so incredibly hard. The whole adventure started when I convinced my poor ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Mt. Gabriel, First Ascent, and Mt. Laurens, Complete West Ridge
For the past year we had been planning a trip into the Revelations, for which we had won a McNeil-Nott ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Climbs in Wadi Naqab and Wadi Ghalilah
One part of the limestone Hajar mountains lies within the United Arab Emirates . In 2009 I was living in the UAE, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Jabal Kawr, Said Wall; Jabal Misht, Südtirolerführe
Jan Kobald, Markus Kollmann, Philipp Prünster, and I (all South Tyroleans, age 23–25) couldn’t wait for our Christmas holidays . ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Lung-Ta Buttress
From the beginning, Jonathan Cooper, Japhy Dhungana, and I had the mindset of an exploratory expedition, seeking out previously unclimbed ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Mt. Grosvenor, Attempted New Route on West Face
Ondra Macek and I attempted a new route on the right side of the 1,300m west face of Grosvenor (a....
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Lenak Nala, L8 (a.k.a. Lama Soo), East Face and North Ridge
In August a team of Japanese college students, Gakushi Eguchi, Satoru Miyachi, Yuu Nishida, and Ryota Takanezawa, drove from Leh ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Notable Climbs of 2017
A general trend of unsettled and wet weather plagued the summer months in New Zealand and limited the amount of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Mt. Asgard, Ratatoskr
Dmitry Golovchenko and Sergey Nilov from Russia climbed a new route up the northwest face of the south tower of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Snowpatch Spire, Beckey-Mather Route, First Free Ascent
After more than 20 seasons in the Bugaboos, I wasn’t quite sure how much energy I had to devote to ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Nevado Paca, South Face
After spending three weeks in the Cordillera Blanca in July, Argentineans Nehuen Conterno and Pablo Maximiliano Laumann visited the Cordillera ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Nevado Tunsho Sur, Southeast Face (Not To Summit)
In July, Peruvian IFMGA guide Victor Rímac traveled with Greg Meyering and Susie Young (both USA) to Reserva Paisají...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Nevado Pariacaca Sur, Northeast Face and Ridge
In August, Peruvian IFMGA guide Marco Jurado, along with Frank Huamán and Misael Mendoza (both Peru), traveled to Reserva ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
New Routes in Quebrada Rurec
This expedition ( www.arrampicande.it) was the initiative of Pietro Rago (Italy), who first visited the Quebrada Rurec in 2005 and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Punta Esmeralda, Estoy Verde
In March, Jon Griffin, Tad McCrea, and I traveled to the remote western side of the Cordillera de Sarmiento and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
La Jungla: New Climbs and Exploration in the Río Alerce Valley
From late December 2016 through early February 2017, Josie McKee and I spent just over four weeks exploring and climbing in northern ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018