American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

26036 Records

Title Publication Year
Long Leader Fall
On July 31, Stephanie Angione was leading the second pitch of Still in Saigon, a popular 5.8 at Cathedral Ledge, when she ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Leader Fall – Inexperience, Inadequate Protection
On August 14, a leader (male, 40s) was attempting the third pitch of La Selva (5.8), which begins in low fifth-class terrain ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Leader Fall on Ice – Thin Ice, Inadequate Protection
My two partners and I (male, age 40), all experienced climbers, were in the Adirondacks on January 26 for the AAC Metro ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Gran Muralla, Northwest Face, Kamasa
I set off from Italy with Giovanni Penna and Marco Rainone to achieve two goals: working with the Università Campesina ...
AAJ
Accident Reports
2018
Talgar, West Face, Partial New Route and First Ski and Snowboard Descent
The Zayliyskiy Alatau is the most northerly system of the Tien Shan ( see note below ). It extends around 350km and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Kijai Nala: Peak 6,038m, North Ridge; Arjuna, West Face
Visiting the Kijai Nala had been on the bucket list for Hayden Kennedy, Marko Prezelj, and me since 2015, when we ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Leader Fall – Loose Rock, Chopped Rope
On November 14, Kelsey Brasseur (29) and I (28) planned to climb all of Indian Creek’s Bridger Jack towers in a day. ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Fatal Rappel Error – Uneven Rope Ends, No Stopper Knots, No Helmet
Mark Davis was 50 years old and had been climbing for 25 years, with successful ascents of El Capitan and routes in ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Essentials: Clear Weight Transitions
Cochise Stronghold, Arizona: A climbing instructor stands on a ledge, cleaning an anchor for her students. Amid multiple pieces of ...
ANAM
Feature Article
2017
Fall on Ice – Using Microspikes Instead of Crampons
I organized a trip to the High Peaks region of the Adirondacks for March. The plan was to summit Mt. ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Ground Fall – Loose Rock, Inadequate Belay
The following report is condensed from “Unbelayvable: A Missed Catch,” published November 2016 in Climbing magazine, with permission of the author, ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Ground Fall – Small Cams Pulled Out
Our party of six, with three experienced climbers and three newbies, headed to the Lower Beer Walls on June 25. I ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Leader Fall – Inadequate Protection
During the morning of February 6, SO and his partner started the three-pitch classic Dopey Duck (5.9). Both were experienced climbers, and ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Rockfall – Poor Position
During July, an organized group was climbing at Catheys Creek when it began to rain. The group leader moved the ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Stranded – Inexperience, Darkness
On September 17, four climbers set off to attempt the Prow (5.4), a classic three- or four-pitch route in the Amphitheater. All ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Ground Fall – Protection Pulled Out
On September 17, a male climber, JC (23), took a ground fall that resulted in a medical evacuation. JC was leading Veg-O-Matic (5.7+ ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Fall on Snow – Inadequate Protection, Failure to Self-Arrest
On June 9 a party of two experienced climbers (ages 49 and 52) fell high on the South Side Route while descending the “...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Lost During Descent – Hypothermia, Frostbite
A party of four Seattle climbers left Timberline Lodge early Saturday morning, January 2, for a summit climb via the Wy'East ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Fatal Fall – Climbing Unroped
At around noon on June 30, Brian Robak (28) left Big Lake Youth Camp to attempt Mt. Washington (7,795 feet). Robak posted a ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Ground Fall in Smith Rock's Lower Gorge
A 37-year-old climber was leading Blood Clot (5.10b) on March 19 when he fell from approximately 15 feet up while attempting to ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Stranded in Mid-Air – Off-Route Rappel
On June 22, Cordero Chavez (29) and Tyler Coleman (age unknown) climbed the Monkey Face spire via the Pioneer Route (5.7 C0). Upon ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Ground Fall – Inadequate Belay
On November 12 at around 11 a.m., two experienced climbers were attempting Doritos (5.12c). One of the climbers (male, age 28) was ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Rappel Error – Uneven Ropes, No Stopper Knots
On November 21, a 31-year-old, moderately experienced climber had finished Deep Impact (5.10c), an 80-foot sport climb. She planned to rappel ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Rappel Error at Smith Rock
On November 24, after climbing Immortal Beloved (5.9), a climber fell about 35 feet to the ground upon unclipping from the anchor. The ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Ground Fall – Inadequate Protection
Late in the morning on November 20, Josh Benti (26) and Jordan Tidbal-Sciullo (26) met Drew Bailey (39) at the Suck Creek climbing area ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Highball Bouldering Fall
A 30-year-old male had been bouldering with two other friends in an area near Lake Mary. T he patient was ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Lowering Error – Rope Too Short, Failure to Close System
Salt Lake County Search and Rescue got called out at 2:36 p.m. on October 2 for a 35-year-old male climber who ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Leader Fall on Ice – Ice Tool Puncture Wound
I was on Rookie Party in Pipeline Bowl, above the Snowbird ski resort, on October 23. This is a WI4 single-pitch ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Anchor Failure – Poor Rock, No Backup
On May 25, Brent Blakenburg (30), Jason Bernard (36), Sean Finnegan (27), and Daniel Coldfelter (36) were camped near the Hans Flat Ranger Station in ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Rappel Error – Climbing Alone
On the afternoon of March 9, two climbers on the Moonlight Buttress route reported that someone had fallen from above them. ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Rappel Failure – Inadequate Knot
About 3:30 p.m. on May 3, Ryan Kautz, 26, was rigging a rappel off Prime Rib of Goat, a multi-pitch 5.9 bolted route, ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Strandings on Rainier – Weather, Altitude Sickness
In the first three weeks of the summer season on Rainier, rangers performed three helicopter rescues. The first was on ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Exposure, Hypothermia
About 10 p.m. on March 26, people at Camp Muir notified rangers that two climbers had not returned from their summit ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Thumb Amputated By Rope in Fall
Just after 5 p.m. on May 12, a male climber (age 29) was attempting to lead Cottonmouth, a 5.10a sport climb at ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Leader Fall – Lost Tooth
At 4 p.m. on April 8, Connor Damato (age 21) was attempting to lead Jesus Is My License Plate (5.10d), a sport ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Deep Water Soloing Injury
At 7 p.m. on August 23, Jesse Grupper (age 18) was attempting an unclimbed project (now 5.13d) during the first deep water ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Stranded – Inexperience, Off Route
Climber 1 (24-year-old male) and Climber 2 (27-year-old female) each had been climbing for about two years. They had limited alpine experience, ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Rappel Error – Water Knot in Anchor Tether Came Untied
On July 23, at about 10:30 a.m., an individual high on the Grand Teton reported by cell phone that he had ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Failure to Self-Arrest
At approximately 1:18 p.m. on July 24, Teton Interagency Dispatch Center received a call from a group of 20 hikers that had ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Leader Fall and Lost Gear Lead to Stranding
On August 9, at approximately 4:15 p.m., ranger Schuster received a transferred cell phone call from a climbing party on the ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Stranded – Cited for Creating Hazard
On August 11, at approximately 4 p.m., a woman went to the Lupine Meadows Rescue Cache to report that her friend, ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Fifty-Foot Ledge Fall – Climbing Unroped
On the morning of August 26, I launched from the Big Sandy Trailhead to attempt a Cirque of the Towers traverse ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Rappel Error – No Backup
As she prepared to rappel the Durrance Route’s approach pitch, an experienced, 56-year-old climber decided to partially coil the ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Leader Fall – Inadequate Protection for Wide Crack
A climber with less than three years of experience attempted Mother I (5.7+ wide crack) with limited appropriately sized protection, which ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Dogtooth Pinnacle, Once Bitten
On the east-facing aspect of the Monolith Cirque, the towering sub-buttresses of Dog Tooth Peak are stacked up like a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Kolob Canyons, Juj Monster
During a stretch of good weather in March, Mike Brumbaugh and I established a new route on the red sandstone ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Essentials: Micro-Cams
Tiny cams pulling out of cracks frequently contribute to accidents reported in these pages. Often, these cams are deformed by ...
ANAM
Feature Article
2017
Danger Zones: Eldorado Canyon
Even at a distance, the sound of a person hitting the ground after a 70-foot fall is unmistakable. On April 9, 2016, ...
ANAM
Feature Article
2017
Fall on Rock – Exceeding Abilities, Inadequate belay
On August 15, 2015, at approximately 4 p.m., Tony M. (37), an experienced traditional and alpine climber, fell approximately 20 feet on the east ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Ground Fall – Inadequate Protection
A 24-year-old climber fell at least 70 feet to the ground at Redgarden Wall on April 9, sustaining significant injuries . The 5.8 variation ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017