American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

26036 Records

Title Publication Year
Cumberland Peninsula, Gateway Glacier Group, Ascents and Exploration
Situated between Pangnirtung and Kingnait fiords on Baffin Island’s Cumberland Peninsula, 35 kms northeast of the village of Pangnirtung, is ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Leader Fall – Clipped Wrong Rope to Protection
An experienced local climber, age 68, was leading Peak Season in Harlem (5.8/5.9), a nine-bolt sport route, in June . He attempted to ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Leader Fall – Ankle Snagged By Carabiner
Toward the end of the day on November 19, I started up a 5.10c trad route called Star Action in the ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Glen Dawson, 1912 – 2016
Glen Dawson was born on June 3, 1912, in the Mt. Washington area of northeast Los Angeles, the same birth year as ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2017
James F. Henriot, 1927 – 2016
On January 3, the AAC lost one of its past presidents, Jim Henriot. He will be much missed by all who ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2017
Kim Schmitz, 1946 ­– 2016
Kim Schmitz was a force of nature and life. I first met him in the Tetons, in 1979, during a trip ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2017
Pico Pirineos: El Lobo del Desierto
Rolando Larcher, one of my regular traveling companions, suggested the idea of climbing in Mexico. After some research on the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Pico Indepencia: Snail Trail
In early 2017, Pete Fasoldt and Jonathan Schaffer established a nine-pitch sport route on the northeast face of Pico Independencia , between ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
El Salto: El Chamán Loco
In November 2015, Italians Marco Maggioni, Paolo Marazzi, and Simone Pedeferri completed a 400m route up the El Chamán (Shaman) ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Cuernos del Diablo, Southwest Face, Don Rayo
In April a group of aspirant guides underwent UIAGM training in the mountains of Bolivia, during which time they spent ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Korona VI, South Face, Georgian Direct
After staying a few days in the Ratsek Hut, Giorgi Tepnadze and I hiked up to the Korona Hut, a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Agmashenebeli, North Face, New Route
In September 2015, Giorgi Tepnadze and I climbed a new route on the north face of Agmashenebeli (3,854m, one of the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Chaukhi Range, First Complete Traverse, Solo
In July 2015, after climbing a  new route on Asatiani with Giorgi Tepnadze, I was surprised by a fine morning ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Tatra Ridge: Team Speed Record
Between July 21 and 25, Polish alpinists Artur Paszczak and Adam Pieprzycki made what is likely the fastest crossing of the complete ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Woodward “Woody” Kingman, 1925 – 2016
Woodward “Woody” Kingman died from stroke complications at age 91 on December 29, 2016, near his home in Belvedere, California. Woody is well ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2017
Jim Detterline, 1956 – 2016
For months I have been mired in sadness after learning of the untimely and shocking death of my good friend ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2017
Kyle Dempster, 1983 – 2016
It’s been months since Kyle Dempster and Scott Adamson disappeared while attempting a new route on the Ogre II (...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2017
Lowell Thomas Jr., 1923 – 2016
Lowell Thomas Jr., an Honorary Lifetime Member of the Mountaineering Club of Alaska and longtime AAC member, passed away in ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2017
Nicholas Clinch, 1930 – 2016
Nicholas Bayard Clinch III was born in Evanston, Illinois, on November 9, 1930. Nick grew up mainly in Dallas, with high school ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2017
Scott Cosgrove, 1964 – 2016
When you’re 20 years old, living in Yosemite and climbing every day, the Earth seems to spin a bit slower . ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2017
Titanic: A First Free Ascent on Torre Egger
In mid-September, I arrived in El Chaltén to meet up with my friend Marc-André Andre Leclerc. Our goal was ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Jebel Rum, Sultan Ul-Mujahadin
A very difficult new free route on the east face of Jebel Rum (1,754m) was redpointed in February 2017. In 2014, climbers ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Yalla Shabab
In November, British climbers Dan McManus and Calum Muskett bolted and climbed a difficult four-pitch line up a previously unclimbed ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Jebel Misht, Wer Wir Waren and Mitten ins Herz
In January and February of 2017, Philip Flämig and I climbed some big new lines on the beautiful and impressive ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Western Hajar, Various New Routes
Italian climbers Manrico Dell’Agnola, Daniele Canale, Tommaso Lamantia, Giovanni Pagnoncelli, and Marcello Sanguineti spent the first half of January 2017 ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Lowering Error – Clipped Wrong Rope Into Anchor
On January 18, at approximately 2 p.m., Climber 1 fell from the top anchors of pitch two of Appendicitis (5.10a) on the ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Essentials: Deep Water Soloing
In deep water soloing (DWS), the danger of a fall is lessened, but the potential for injury is not eliminated. ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Oxford Glacier, Island Peak, East Face and South Ridge; Snow Dome, North Ridge; Panorama Peak, South Ridge
The Stauning Alps of northeast Greenland are bounded to north by the King Oscar Fjord, to the east by the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Pik Semenova Tian-Shanski, Northwest Face
Route 3 is the 2015 Aitken-Potockiy Route. See photos below for other routes.  The Ala Archa is a popular and easily ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Fatal Fall on Mt. Tupper – Loose Rock, Climbing Unroped
On July 25, while ascending the classic west ridge of Mt. Tupper, an unroped climber pulled on a loose block along ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Stranded on Mt. Tupper – Inadequate Equipment
On June 20, as a pair of climbers was ascending the south buttress of Mt. Tupper, wet, snowy conditions slowed their ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Scrambling Fall in Sir Donald Group – Loose Hold
At the end of August, a party of three climbers attempted a lightweight traverse of the peaks that bound the ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Boulder Crushes Bugaboos Climber
On July 15, a loose boulder shifted as a 32-year-old apprentice guide approached the west ridge of Pigeon Spire, sending him ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Long Fall on Carlsberg Column – Inadequate Protection
On December 28, two experienced climbers started up the classic Field ice climb known as Carlsberg Column . Carlsberg has an “approach ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Fatal Fall on Mt. Assiniboine – Loose Rock, Climbing Unroped
A party of two departed the Hind Hut at 5:30 a.m. on August 30 to attempt the north ridge of Mt. ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Linzhou Taihang Canyon, Merry Christmas
Over Christmas 2016, pictures of a large icefall strongly resembling a Christmas tree circulated on Wechat (a free messaging and calling ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Leader Fall on Banff Ice Climb
On February 21, a party was climbing Professor Falls on the slopes of Mt. Rundle and attempting to combine pitches in ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Ski Mountaineer Hit by Falling Cornice
A group of seven skiers was attempting the southern portion of the Great Divide ski traverse, which goes from the ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Ice Climbing Fall – Descending Unroped
At 3:40 p.m. on February 4, two ice climbers were descending the lower portion of the Aquarius ice climb (WI4) . The ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Leader Fall on Yamnuska – Loose Rock, Inadequate Protection
An experienced party of two was climbing Forbidden Corner (5.9 R) on April 12 when the leader fell about 10 meters on the ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Long Leader Fall on Kemosabe Ice Climb – Inadequate Protection
On November 29, while leading the second pitch of Kemosabe (100 meters, WI4), a 35-year-old climber took a 40-meter fall from near ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Scrambling Fall on Mt. Haig – Forced Bivouac, Inadequate Equipment
On November 13 a party of six scrambled to the summit of Mt. Haig, in the far southern Canadian Rockies, via ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Pendulum Fall During Rappel Retreat from Matthes Crest
Will and James started climbing Matthes Crest in the late morning on September 11. Both have spent decades climbing in the ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Sokuluk Valley, Chon-tor, Northwest Face, Glazunov Route
In February 2016, just a few weeks after the presumed first ascent of Chon-tor (ca 4,180m) by Egor Suzdaltsov and Ivan ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
At Bashi Ski Mountaineering
The At Bashi Range is particularly suitable for ski mountaineering and still has around 60 peaks above 4,000m that remain unclimbed . ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Punchen Himal North, Northwest Face and Northwest Ridge
Punchen Himal (6,049m, 28°39'40N, 85°08'48E) lies on the Nepal-Tibet border, 30km north of Ganesh I (7,422m). It had ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Peak 6,010m, North Face and East-Southeast Ridge (Within 30m of Summit)
Our original goal was to climb the north face of Lobuche West (6,145m). Joao Garcia and I approached up the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Lowering Error at Rumney – Rope Too Short for Climb
On September 8, two men were climbing Shealyn’s Way (5.7), a sport route approximately 75 feet high. As the leader was lowering ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
The Wrong Valley
THE STRANGE THING  about climbing new routes in China and Tibet is that once you’re lucky enough to ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2017
Jam Band
I STILL REMEMBER when I first saw the Asgard Jamming film. It was 2009, in Lecco, a presentation by Nico ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2017