American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

26036 Records

Title Publication Year
Sersank, North Buttress
Sometime in the final decades of the last century, I used to have a battered climbing guidebook to someplace in ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Shailaputri, Southwest Face
We arrived in the Miyar Valley on September 20 and set up base camp close to Padang at 3,700m. Our objective ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Lalsura, Northwest Ridge; Shigrila, Southeast Face
While probably better known these days to vacationers and trekkers than to climbers, the Kullu region once was popular with ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Thalay Sagar, North Face, Movable Feast
In September, Dmitry Grigoriev, Sergey Nilov, and I climbed a new route on one of the most famous and beautiful ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Shafat Valley, Various Routes; Z2, East Ridge
In 2014, Sidarta Gallego and I visited Zanskar and climbed a number of new routes ( AAJ 2015 ). I realized the potential of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Mulung Tokpo, Exploration
Since 2009 I have been exploring southern Zanskar and photographing many of the unclimbed peaks of the Giabul, Lenak, Reru, Temasa, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Chaukhamba III, South Ridge (Nearly to Summit)
In October, the American-Canadian team of Joel Kauffman, Jason Kruk, and Tad McCrea climbed the 1,600m south ridge of Chaukhamba ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Exploration of Rangtik, Shimling, and Denyai Valleys; Remalaye West, South Face
From mid-July to the start of September, Anastasija Davidova and I explored the Rangtik, Shimling, and Denyai tokpos. The first ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Gimmigela Chuli East, Northwest Face
In October, Alex Blümel and I trekked to the north side of Kangchenjunga and established base camp at 5,200m, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Cirque of the Moon, Exploration and First Routes
Cirque of the Moon is the name given to a compact horseshoe of walls and buttresses lying south of the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Cloud Peak, East Face, Medicine Crow
After several years of aborted trips, Alex Marine and I climbed a new route on the east face of Cloud ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Spearpoint Lake: New Routes and Potential
In mid-August, Scott Kice and I spent a week exploring the extensive walls above Spearpoint Lake in the southern Wind ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
New Routes on Red Tower, Sacajawea, Elephant Head, and the Buttress
In July 2015, I joined a team of Salt Lake City climbers who were returning to Titcomb Basin with some unfinished ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Pendulum Fall – Off Route, Inadequate Protection
On August 22, a 36-year-old female climber and her climbing partner left the Lupine Meadows Trailhead, headed for the south ridge ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Beka Brakai Chhok, Northwest Ridge Attempt; Peak 6,315m, Northeast Ridge
This expedition was not previously reported in the AAJ. In June 1998 my four porters left me alone at Lupdhor, a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Nanga Parbat: Northwest Face via Diama Glacier, Previously Unreported Attempt and Other History
In 1895, having attempted the so-called Mummery Rib of Nanga Parbat to 6,100m, the celebrated British alpinist Alfred Mummery, accompanied by ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Shaltar Peak, North Spur and Northwest Ridge
This climb was previously unreported in the AAJ. In July 1989, I walked alone from Hopar village along the east side ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Faroling Chhish South, South Face; Peak 5,594m, South Face
These climbs were not previously reported in the AAJ . In August 1988, Walter Phipps and I established base camp at Daltanas (3,922...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Muztagh Tower, Southeast Ridge Integral, Attempt
My friend Matthias Konig had mentioned that the characteristic shape of 7,284m Muztagh Tower made it his longtime dream mountain. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Qaqqaq Aoife, Northwest Ridge
With our two Icelandic mountain guides, Bjorgvin Hilmarsson and Leifur Orn Svavarsson, Mike Brinkworth, James Masters, Dave Minghay, and I ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Daddy and Daughter: Solo First Ascents in East Greenland
I have been on 10 expeditions to Greenland since first visiting in 1998. One particular area on the east coast, between Thor’...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Cape Farewell: Four New Routes
Lionel Daudet invited me to take part in his Big Seas, Big Walls expedition, and I quickly accepted this incredible ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Half Dome: The Bad Man from Bodie
After some climbs in the popular Ulamertorssuaq region of the Tasermiut Fjord, including perhaps the second ascent of Grmoland (Grmovsek-Grmovsek, 2008) ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Sokuluk Valley, Chon-tor
In January 2016, Egor Suzdaltsev and Ivan Temerev from Russian Siberia made what is thought to be the first ascent of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Asatiani, East Face
While climbing a new route on the north face of Agmashenebeli the year before, it was hard not to notice ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Asatiani, West-Northwest Buttress, Badriashvili-Tepnadze Route
East of the higher and better-known peaks of the Caucasus, the Chaukhi massif is one of the most popular mountain ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Kazbek, East Face, New Route in Winter
From February 9 to 13, Giorgi Tepnadze and I climbed a new route up the Dragon's Wall on Kazbek (5,047m, a.k....
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Dzhangi-tau, Southwest Face, Kartvelishvili Route with Variant
From August 19–22, 2015, Giorgi Tepnadze, Levan Tsibadze, and I climbed the Kartvelishvili Route on the southwest face of Dzhangi-tau (a.k....
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Peaks to the East of Suek Pass, Various Ascents
This year's expedition to Kyrgyzstan was planned somewhat more on the hoof than normal: I only booked flights three days ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Chunker-kel Valley, Various Ascents
Maria Dixon, John McEvoy, Will McEvoy, Claire Stringer, Guy Williams, and I (all U.K.) drove to the village of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Ala Archa National Park, Various Ascents
From August 4 to 28, Giovanni Pagnoncelli and I climbed three long new rock routes in Ala Archa National Park, all on ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Djenghi-Djer: Ascents and Exploration
In mid-July, Mark Chonofsky, Sandy Fowler, Sam Newmark, Calum Nicoll, Neil Smith, and I set out for unexplored and poorly ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
At Bashi: Ski Mountaineering Exploration
Isolated by wide longitudinal valleys, the At Bashi Range extends 100km in a southwest to northeast direction, with an average ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Mt. Poi, Fast Free Ascents; Ololokwe, Cat and Mouse, New Routes
Two and half weeks, one African country, and three completely unique objectives: Why not? In December 2016, I traveled to Kenya ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Arrowhead Peak, North Ridge
In late July, Tim Halder and I ventured into the remote and mythical Arrigetch Peaks for three weeks of packrafting ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Bike Crash During Descent From Climb
I climbed the classic west ridge of North Twin Sister Mountain near Mt. Baker on a fine August day . It ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Hooman Aprin, 1946 – 2015
Hooman Aprin, climber and mountain guide, succumbed to frontal temporal dementia in May 2015 at age 68. At death he was surrounded ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2017
Scott Adamson, 1981 – 2016
In 2002–’03 the leashless revolution was just starting, and it brought together a small group of Salt Lake and Provo, Utah, ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2017
John R. Filsinger, 1921 – 2016
John R. Filsinger of Clearfield, Pennsylvania, died September 24 at the age of 95. He was married to Marjorie Filsinger from 1949 until ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2017
Rappel Error — Damaging Pendulum Swing
On May 3, at approximately 11:30 p.m., a climber notified park rangers that his climbing partner might have sustained a broken ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Nangamari II, Northeast Ridge from the East
Nangamari I (center) and II (left). The 2016 first ascent of Nangamari II gained the col between the two peaks, then ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Kang Nachugo, South Face and West Ridge
I had intended to try the unclimbed east face of Kang Nachugo (6,737m) in 2015, but the massive earthquake prevented access ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Mt. Church, Les Démons de Minuit, and Other Routes
During late April and early May, an expedition of the Groupe Excellence Alpinisme National, a mentorship program of the federation ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
The Minaret, Retinal Circus, First Free Ascent
The Minaret is a gorgeous prow shaped like a rocket ship that leans against the south side of South Howser ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
North Howser Tower: Armageddon, First Free Ascent
In August 1999, Jonny Copp and Mike Pennings climbed a new line on the 3,200’ west face of North Howser Tower. They ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
The Cholesterol Wall: Two New Routes
Red line: The Lion, the Witch, and the Wardrobe (2016). Yellow line: Apocalypse Now (2015).  Will Mayo Collection  On ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Stewart Valley, Mirror Wall, Sensaciones
The Mirror Wall (center) has only one known route, climbed in 2010. The Citadel is at left and Great Sail Peak ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
The Kurobe Golden Pillar
Top alpinists have two main “practice climbs” within Japan to prepare for the Himalaya . “Pachinko” involves a linkup of 200m ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Kashkaratash Valley, Several Ascents
After a  trip to the Terskey Ala-too  with Callum Nelson, he had to return to Europe, so I ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Pik Rototaev, Northwest Ridge
In 1995, a Russian-Swiss team made a long exploratory journey through the eastern end of the Western Kokshaal-too . The team was ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017