American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

26196 Records

Title Publication Year
Falls on Snow and Rock
Several accidents, including one fatality, occurred in the Red Gully on the standard route up 14,294-foot Crestone Peak. Although it ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2016
Broad Dome, Atlantis Wall, Sierra Swashbuckle
During the first week of August, Julian Kuettner and I completed a new line up the Atlantis Wall, on the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Pontok 3: Beyond Plaisir
In early May, Timmy ONeill and I climbed a new route on the South Face of Pontok 3 in the Spitzkoppe ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Uløytinden, East Face, Starless Spur
Up to now there was not a single established alpine route on Uløya Island, only three icefalls that friends ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
The Pencil
On January 28, 2017, Tim Bemrich, Jacob Oram, and I made the first ascent of a feature long known as the Pencil, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Illusion Wall, The Epic Tail of Sir Norbert
In late 2015, Matt Leslie, Jeremy Luscher, Alan Semrau, and I finished a three-year project on the Illusion Wall, in the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Mt. Stuart, King Kong
On September 9, I made a free ascent of King Kong (IV 5.11+), a line on the west face of Mt. Stuart ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Dragontail Peak, Iceline Bling
On April 3, Craig Pope, my wife Priti Wright, and I climbed a new ice route on the north face of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
The Line
We spend the night half-sitting, half-standing, one butt cheek each, hanging from the anchor. We are freezing and our bivy ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2017
Mindzhar Valley: Pik 5,175m, Pik 5,390m, and Pik 5,414m
Before joining the estimated 1,000 climbers at base camp for Pik Lenin in August, we went by jeep to the next ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Bishkek Sport Climbing Area
Readers may be interested to know about Chunkurchak , a sport climbing area close to Bishkek, with both single- and multi-pitch ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Mt. Huntington: Macho Madness
On April 29, Nik Mirhashemi and Mark Pugliese established a 1,500’ alternate start to the French (Northwest) Ridge of Huntington . Their line ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
New Books in Brief – 2016
The 9th Grade: 150 Years of Free Climbing, by David Chambre (Mountaineers Books, $50). A large-format, comprehensive history of free climbing; Eurocentric ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2017
Summary of New Routes (2016)
The majority of new-route activity in New Zealand during 2016 occurred during the summer period, with a number of new alpine ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Harding Tower: New Life
Deep in Tenaya Canyon is a slabby dome hidden by Mt. Watkins to the west and Yasoo Dome to the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
The Dawn Wall: Rapid Second Ascent
On November 21, Adam Ondra from the Czech Republic completed the second free ascent of the Dawn Wall (VI 5.14d), the 32...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Yosemite Overview (2016)
During what was likely a record-breaking summer for park visitation, three-hour traffic jams edged slowly in a counterclockwise loop around ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
The Cleaver, Dark Tower, and Gambler's Special: New Routes and First Free Ascent
In June, Brian Prince, Alaina Robertson, and I set up a camp below the northeast face of the Gambler’s ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Happy Dome: Men in Heat
A few years ago, Daniel Jeffcoach and I spotted an unnamed and apparently unclimbed formation above North Dome . The approach ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Annapurna III: Southeast Ridge, Attempt
Austrian climbers Hansjörg Auer, Alex Blümel, and David Lama attempted one of the great unclimbed prizes of the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Jastrabia veža: Corona
On June 17 and 18, Mišo Bado and I made the first ascent of Corona on the south face of Jastrabia ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Trollveggen: Solo Winter Ascent
From January 11–26, 2017, Marek Raganowicz (Poland) made the first solo winter ascent of any route on Trollveggen (the Troll Wall) when ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Trøllkonufingur: Huffin & Puffin
Jack Grinsted, Dave McKinney, and I, from New Zealand, established a new route, Huffin & Puffin (12 pitches, 7a A3), on ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Great Sail Peak: Two New Routes
In the summer of 2016, Joshua Lavigne, Marc-André Leclerc and I spent six weeks in the fjordlands of eastern Baffin Island, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Hungabee Mountain, Northwest Face, Mordor
In May 2015, Steven Kovalenko and Maury Perrault climbed a 1,400m mixed line up the northwest face of Hungabee Mountain (3,490m) ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
The Finger: Napsihu Ridge
On August 1, Mark Klassen, Tim Johnson, Margie Smith, and Larry Stanier completed a new route up the northwest ridge (Napsihu ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Wardle Teeth: North Ridge of North Tooth
Jeff Dickson and Tobias Link climbed the north ridge of the North Tooth , one of a pair of limestone towers ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Rocky Mountain National Park Season Summary (2016)
In a superb effort, Josh Wharton completed the three hardest free routes in the Park in one year : Sarchasm (5.14a, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Zowie, South Face, Magic in the Middle
Zowie is similar in shape and size to the classic RMNP spire the Petit Grepon. The only thing Zowie has ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Cynical Pinnacle: Full Facial
The South Platte region of Colorado has a strong history of scrappy rock climbing and a staunch ethic of bolting ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Brabant Island, Peaks Southeast of Mt. Parry
In December, a ski mountaineering party led by Bruce Goodlad (U.K.) was dropped off at Tarrada Point on Brabant ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Pioneer Heights, Rogers Peak from North and East
After summiting Mt. Vinson on January 4, 2017, Larry Holmgren (USA), Nate Opp (USA), Liam Suckling (Australia), and I went old-school . Instead ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Roberts Massif
On January 15, 2017, a British military group commemorating Henry Worsley and comprising Alex Brazier, Chris Brooke, Jamie Facer-Childs, Alun George, Lou ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Bhandar Lek, North-Northeast Spur
Having only soared around the unclimbed mountain on Google Earth, it felt wild to cross a river into the winter-shadowed ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Gangapurna, South Face Direct, Korean Way; Gangapurna West, South Face (Almost to Summit)
What to do next? This question lingered in my mind after I completed all the 8,000ers without supplementary oxygen . Like ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Shadzud Valley: Exploration and Ascents
During the summer of 2010, a series of violent acts against foreigners in northern Afghanistan led our team to explore an ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
The Bond: Survival On Denali and Mount Huntington
The Bond: Survival on Denali and Mount Huntington.  Simon McCartney. Mountaineers Books, 2016. Paperback, 304 pages, $19.95. Standing beneath the north face ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2017
Peak 6,094m, West-Southwest Face and North Ridge
In 2008, Kathrin Münzel and I reached the eastern end of the Wakhan Corridor and Oxus Snow Lake ( AAJ 2009 ), and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Andvord Bay: Various Ascents
From November 19–December 19, Albert Argemi (Spain), Ken Ellison (Canada), Julie Jones (U.K.), Arnount Wittert (Netherlands), and I, as leader, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
First Ascents in the Salvesen Range
On September 17, Henry Chaplin, Caradoc (Crag) Jones, David Lund, Skip Novak, Stephen Venables, and I left the yacht Pelagic Australis ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
La Changa
July and August saw the first stage of the Mujer Montaña and French Mountaineering Federation’s High Mountain Women ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Tiquimani, Northeast Ridge Attempt
Tiquimani is the last great mountain in the central cordillera before the Altiplano slips east toward the Bolivian jungle. Situated ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Himlung Himal, Southwest Ridge
Sometimes we simply need to change the way we look at a mountain in order to rejuvenate our climbing game. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Lasarmula, East Ridge
Standing on the edge of the moraine and surveying detritus of other climbers, Simon Verspeak and I saw our first ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Nagoru East, West, and Central Peaks From the Southwest
If somebody said you could still find 6,000m peaks in Nepal that were easy to approach, not technically challenging, and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Preikestolen: Norwegianstyle and Thor
On June 13 the well-known tourist attraction of Preikestolen (Pulpit Rock), which rises above the Lysefjorden in Rogoland and is internationally ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Abrahamstind: Wish You Were Here
Through my work as a guide, I’m privileged to see corners of the Lofoten Islands that a short-term visitor ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Know the Ropes: Belaying
Climbers have been belaying for as long as they’ve been using ropes. We use some type of belay in ...
ANAM
Feature Article
2016
Danger Zones: The Grand Teton
When Glenn Exum made the first ascent of the upper south ridge of the Grand Teton in 1931, he did so ...
ANAM
Feature Article
2016
Ushba, West Face: Grigorenko-Prigoda Route and variant, first alpine-style ascent, and traverse of both summits
Ushba is symbolic of the Caucasus. It is no surprise that this double-summited peak was an emblem of Soviet mountaineering ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017