American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

265 Records

Title Publication Year
New Routes in Daniels River Valley and Nearby Areas
IT WAS A BUSY SEASON in the Coast Mountains outside of the city of Powell River, northwest of Squamish . ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Lowering Error – Rope Too Short, No Stopper Knot
On September 29, DP and JC (both age 23) were climbing Wandering the Halls, a 5.8+ sport climb, at Bolton Quarry climbing area. ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2019
The Towers of Simiatug
From December 5–9, a crew from Fondo Acceso Andino (the Ecuadorian analog to the Access Fund in the U.S.) went ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Nevado Parcocaya, North Ridge
In August, my expedition partner Duncan McDaniel (USA) and I attempted four different routes up four different mountains in southern ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Jurau A and Jurau B, New Routes (Not To Summits); Disambiguation and Notes on 2018 Climbs
In June, José María “Chemari” Andres, Christine Baschinger, Samuel Gomez, Jorge Valle, and I (all Spaniards) climbed new routes ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Korlang Pari Tippa North, West Top
In 2017 our expedition made the first ascent of Korlang Pari Tippa South ( AAJ 2018 ). In November 2018, I returned to the Rolwaling ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Nevado Tacusiri, South Face to West Ridge (No Summit)
On June 7, Argentine Nehuén Conterno and Peruvians Rodrigo Mendoza and Jorge Sirva departed from Pitumarca (80km south ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Wild Spur Range, Divoka
The opportunity to visit Antarctica came through Marek Holeček. Peter Hamor and I were in Kathmandu in the spring ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Ordzhonikidze, North Face, Two New Routes
The Zayliyskiy Alatau (also sometimes spelled Zaylyiskiy, Zailiiskii, or Zalisky) is the most northerly part of the Tien Shan, and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Zor Kumtor Valley: First Ascents
In late September and early October, our Czech-Slovak team made a trip to virgin peaks in the Alai mountains . Our ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Nyambo Konka, Northeast Face to South-southeast Ridge
W.C. Fields once said: “If at first you don’t succeed, try, try again. Then quit. No use being ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Mulung Tokpo: Aari Dont, Northwest Ridge; Chilh Point, East Face
I first went to Zanskar in 2013, inspired by an article by Harish Kapadia in the Himalayan Journal .  Our team ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Sajama, West Face and Northwest Ridge, Days to Remember
Matthew Ward from Idaho and I made an attempt in July on a gray flow of ice toward the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Uløytinden, East Face, NordFit; Historical Ascents on Uløytinden and Kägen
In March, Maciej Janczar and Tomasz Klimczak (Poland), based at the Lyngen Outdoor Center, added another winter route to the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Molar, South Face, Le Privilege du Renard
In 2016, the Julbo eyewear maker ran a competition, with the winner having the opportunity to climb somewhere in the world ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Cerro El Escampe and Cerro Copla Blanca
From October 13 to 21, Ramiro Casas and Glauco Muratti explored a quebrada (valley) that flows into the Tupungato River south of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Molar, Southwest Face, Stonecircle
In July and August, Robert Jasper made a "by fair means" solo expedition, sea kayaking to the Fox Jaw Cirque, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Rongdo Valley, Phokto Scheyok (Black Pyramid), South Face
In far northern India, a number of steep-sided granite valleys are enclosed by the “Great Bend” of the Shyok River. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Ak-tau Traverse
Between the well-known summits of Khan Tengri and Pik Pobeda sleeps a seldom-visited yet interesting group of mountains known as ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Mugu Valley, Peak 5,467m and the Mugu Eye (the Arch), Attempts
Inspired by a photo in  AAJ 2018 , and thanks to a Grit and Rock Award, Cecilia Buil (Spain), Ixchel Foord (...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Charquini, East Face: Felix el Titi, Jaguar Holocaust, and Coni's Dream
After making the first ascent of the east face of Charquini (5,392m) in 2017 with Sergio Condori (see  AAJ 2018 ), I ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Helicopter Rescue in the Bolivian Andes
In 2007 and '08, the Vladostano Alpine Rescue Service, which operates mountain rescue services in Italy's Val d'Aosta, organized training courses ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Picacho Pucusani, West to East Traverse
In mid-July, Roberto Gomez (Bolivia) and I finally turned our attention to a formation that every rock climber sees when ...
AAJ
Accident Reports
2019
Picacho Kasiri, South Face
Picacho Kasiri (as defined by the IMG map 5945-II) had looked full of promise when Roberto Gomez and I saw ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Suiricocha Massif, Unnamed Peak, Peru-Belgium Arête
In May, Guy Fonck (Belgium) and I climbed an unnamed peak (ca 5,400m, 11°56'5.79"S 76° 3'18.95"W) in the southern ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Trident, Northwest Face and Southwest Ridge (Not to Summit); Mitón, First Ascent by East Ridge
In August, I led a 10-day traverse across the Cordillera Carabaya between the towns of Macusani (4,300m) and Ollachea (2,800m), ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Chilpariti, Southwest Face
In 1967, the southwest face of Chilpariti (ca 5,550m) was so highly coveted by two visiting expeditions that the British team, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Nevado Huayllaco, South Face, Attempt
Nevado Huayllaco (5,460m, also spelled Huaiyacu, approximately 9°50'4.21"S, 77°11'21.61"W) was first ascended in 1963 by Domingo Giobbi (Italy/Brazil) ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Oje Punta, West Couloir Direct
On July 9, 2017, I climbed a probable new route on the west aspect of Oje Punta (5,386m), also known as Lliani, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Jampa II, West Face
In August, my wife, Vahitiare Beltrami, Simon Schonemann-Poppeliers, and I traveled to the Andean village of Pacchanta, where we met ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Cerro San Lorenzo, South Pillar (El Faro)
Martin Elias, Francois Poncet (a.k.a. Ponpon), and I approached the east face of Cerro San Lorenzo (3,706m) for ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Quebrada Rurec Updates and Corrections
The 2018 season saw continued interest in the granite walls of Quebrada Rurec in the southern Cordillera Blanca. In late July, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Cerro Almirante Nieto, South Face, Linea de Libertad
WORKING AS a trekking guide in Torres del Paine for a few years, it was hard to ignore this ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Chinese Puzzle Wall, Crouching Tiger
I FIRST CORRESPONDED with Brette Harrington in 2016, asking her to write an article for the AAJ about her recent route ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Bayancol, Southwest Spur and Southeast Ridge
From July 26 to 28, Murat Otepbayev (leader), Tursunali Aubakirov, Igor Malkin, Maxim Pavlov, and Grigory Shchukin from Almaty climbed a new ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Pik Ushat, North Face, and Other Ascents
James Bailie, Alistair Bell, Vasili Trigas, and I left Bishkek for Karakol on August 14, ultimately heading for the Ushat-too, south ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Baintha Brakk West II, Northeast Buttress, Attempt
On the long west-northwest ridge of Baintha Brakk (a.k.a. Ogre, 7,265m) lie several impressive summits, including Baintha Brakk ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Baintha Brakk West I, South Face, Attempt; Siayh Kangri Ho Brakk, North Face
Damian Göldi and Marcel Jaun (Switzerland) attempted unclimbed Baintha Brakk West I (a.k.a. Ogre IV, 6,660m) via ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Andrew Harvard, 1949 – 2019
Andrew Carson Harvard died in January 2019 after a decade-long battle with younger-onset Alzheimer’s disease. His final days were comforted ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2019
Nyainbo Yuze, Mantou Spire and Various Attempts
The Nyainbo Yuze has held a special place in my imagination since opening  AAJ 2014  and seeing Tamotsu Nakamura’...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Shuijerab Group, Shuwert Valley, Banafsheh, South Face
On September 18, Philip De-Beger and I set up base camp at 4,864m (36.451221°N, 75.713064°E) at the entrance to the East ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Kiris Peak, Northeast Face, WaterWorld; Snow Peak, West-Southwest Face
Ghulam Muhammad, an old Pakistani friend and organizer of many of my travels in Baltistan, knows my taste in mountaineering ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Chaupi Orco, East Ridge, Variation
On June 26, from a high camp at 5,100m, my wife, Jeanne, and I climbed a possible new variation (grade AD+) ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Rajuntay, Northeast Face; Rajuntay Norte, Northeast Couloir
The Cordillera de la Viuda is a subrange of the Cordillera Central ( see Alpine Journal 2000 for more details about the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Nevado Huantsán, South Ridge (West Summit to Main Summit)
An Italian team that included Casimiro Ferrari reached Nevado Huantsán’s western summit from the south in 1972 ( AAJ 1973 ). At 6,270...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Asta Nunaat, South Ridge, Gioielli Viventi
Andrea Ghitti and I chose to visit East Greenland because we were looking for pure and exploratory mountaineering, a bit ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Mythics Cirque, Ataatap Tower, Northeast Face; Aurora Tower, Southeast Face and Northeast Ridge
In July and August, Lionel Daudet, Patrick Wagnon, and I (all French) visited the Mythics Cirque, about 350km north of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Gus Zrakun Sar, South Ridge
Alik Berg and I left Calgary on June 30. On July 14, after many flights, jeep drives, and three days of trekking ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
North Liverpool Land, Many First Ascents
Building on the successes of my earlier expeditions to the region ( AAJs 2008, 2015, and 2016 ), Ingrid Baber (Germany), Sandy Gregson, Ron Kenyon, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Tasermiut Fjord, Honey Buttress, Southeast Face, Hanging Bus; Nalumasortoq, Ekstra Lagret, First Free Ascent
In July and early August, Dawid Sysak and I were in the Nalumasortoq-Ulamertorsuaq region, where we climbed a new route ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019