American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

265 Records

Title Publication Year
Kachqiant, Northeast Ridge; Ghaintar Chhish, Southeast Ridge, Attempt
Inspired by Florian Tolle’s report in  AAJ 2008,  Ruud Rotte, Danny Schoch, Menno Schokker, and I left the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Clarks Fork Canyon, The Chief, Yellow Wolf
JUST OFF the Chief Joseph Scenic Highway in northwest Wyoming is a section of the Clarks Fork Canyon of the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Grand Canyon National Park, Keyhole Ridge
WE DEPARTED LEE'S FERRY on November 24, 2017, seven people in two boats. This would be my fifth trip down the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Mt. Wilbur, North Face, Winter-Conditions Ascent
In late October, Justin Willis and I headed into Glacier National Park to explore the area’s potential for fall ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Mt. Hood, Three Little Monkeys
Wayne Wallace had mentioned that there was some unclimbed potential on the left side of the Black Spider, a concave ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Mt. Wilson, Aeolian Wall, Jedi Mind Tricks
IN THE FALL of 2017, I climbed Woman of Mountain Dreams (V 5.11) on Mt. Wilson with my friend Lindsey Hamm. The ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Snoqualmie Mountain, Northwest Face, Turf Testament
On March 31, Mark Bunker and I climbed a previously undocumented line on the northwest face of Snoqualmie Mountain (6,278’) that we ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Boston Basin, Boston Marathon
SOMETIME IN THE SUMMER OF 2017, Kyle Willis told me about his idea to do a technical circumnavigation of Boston Basin ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
El Capitan, Ephemeron
In April, Kristoffer Wickstrom and I established Ephemeron (VI 5.10 A4), a 22-pitch line up the center of El Capitan, with ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Notch Peak, Southwest Face Left
From May 4–7, Matt Meinzer and I established a new free climb on the southwest face of Notch Peak in the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Sacajawea Peak, Grand Central Couloir and Right Ventricle
In 2016, Joe Crane and I ventured into Idaho’s Lost River Range to pit ourselves against the unrepeated Broken Wings (400...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Moonlight Buttress, Moonshadow
IN 1971, THE YOUNG AND STRONG team of Jeff Lowe and Mike Weis walked up to the base of “Chimney ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Samadhi, Onsight Free Ascent
Sasha DiGiulian, accompanied by Molly Mitchell (both USA), onsighted Samadhi (450m, 5.13a) in February 2019 for the third known free ascent . ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Caliban, Calibration and the Marshall Mathers Memorial Route
IN LATE JULY, Lang Van Dommelen, Chris Williams, and I flew into Gates of the Arctic National Park looking for ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Chisana Glacier, First Ski Descents
AFTER WATCHING a constant barrage of storms strafe south-central Alaska in the late spring of 2018, Mat Brunton and I headed ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Thompson Pass, Probable New Routes
GOOD CONDITIONS PREVAILED throughout 2018 in the Chugach Mountains around Valdez and Thompson Pass. Living and working year-round in Valdez, I ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Denali, Light Traveler, Rapid Second Ascent
On June 4 and 5, Michael Gardner and I made the second ascent of Light Traveler (M7), on the southwest face of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Mt. Huxley, Northeast Ridge to Northwest Ridge (Super-Hux)
IN EARLY JUNE, Scott Peters, Andrew Peter, and I completed the second ascent (and the first complete ascent from base ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Cloud Peak, East Face, In Honor of Crazy Horse
THE BIGHORNS ARE LESS KNOWN by climbers than the more popular ranges of the Wind River Mountains and the Tetons. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Crystal Geyser Crag, New Routes
In January 2018, Reuben Shelton and Brandon Thau completed Windchester (7 pitches, 5.11a A0), on the left side of the Crystal Geyser ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Jezebel (East Summit), East Face, Fun or Fear
Uisdean Hawthorn and I flew into the Revelations on March 23. We landed on the Fish Creek Glacier, almost directly ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Fifth Tower, The Fifth Element; Sixth Tower, The Sixth Sense
DURING THE EARLY DAYS of March, I received a call from Reid Harris telling me that Ryan Johnson and Marc-André ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Peak 5,805’ (Endicott Tower), First Ascent
On June 10, 2016, my father Mike Miller and I set out into the Endicott River Wilderness, located about 50 miles northwest of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Shark’s Tooth, First Ascent by Southeast Ridge
On September 2, Matt Callahan and I set out to climb a peak that we have been eyeing for a while. ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2019
Seraph, Northeast Face, MaKeMaLo; Hydra, Northeast Face, Fa Pa Caou Per Aqui
At the end of March, Thomas Auvaro, Jeremy Fino, Antoine Rolle, and I traveled to the Revelation Glacier. After reading&...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
The Deeper Mysteries
THE DEEPER MYSTERY TOWERS are a previously untouched area of desert sandstone towers, a mile east of the Mystery Towers, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Wolverine Peak Cirque, New Routes
In August, I was invited to join an expedition with Sean Canterbury, Mark Evans, Evan Johnson, Jared Leader, Shingo Ohkawa, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Ericsson Crag 3, Mud Falcon
In August, Tad McCrea and I climbed a new route called Mud Falcon (1,400’, IV 5.11- C1) up the north face ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Four Gables, New Routes
IN EARLY JUNE, Josie McKee and I climbed a new route on the east face of Four Gables (12,720’), just west ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Mt. Russell, Northwest Face, Land of Milk and Honey
In October, Jon Griffin, Tad McCrea, and I climbed a likely new route in mixed conditions on the northwest face ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Shaw Spire, East Face, Desayhumo
FREESTANDING PINNACLES are a rarity in the High Sierra, where it’s more common to top out on a flat ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Sky Pilot, East Face, Certified Tantric Shaman
In July, Tad McCrea and I made the long trek up the East Lake Trail, aiming for the east face ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Forsyth Peak, Torre del Caballo Salvaje
The afternoon sun beat through the smoke-filled air. My mind was delirious and my legs ached from the previous 50 miles. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Mt. Humphreys, North Pillar of East Face
On July 28, Dave Spies, Steven Stosky, and I climbed what we believe to be a new route up the east ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Mt. Whitney Area, Upper Boy Scout Lake, The Magic Mushroom
In July, I backpacked to Upper Boy Scout Lake with my friend Steve Yamamoto and my wife Giselle Field. It ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Mt. Chamberlin, Until the Wheels Fall Off
In early August, Becca Pilkerton and I approached Mt. Chamberlin (13,175’) from Cottonwood Pass. After a day of swimming and staring ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
San Joaquin River Gorge, Confluence Dome, New Routes
In September, Cristina Engel, Neal Harder, and I established the first known technical routes on Confluence Dome (37.445315, -119.242106), located at ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Patterson Bluffs, The Money Shot
In October, Brian Prince and I completed the Money Shot (9 pitches, 5.11 C1), a spectacularly steep route that climbs the left ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Tokopah Valley: 1,000 Piece Meal Deal, Knotfest
In July, Neal Harder, Sebastian Thau, and I established a nearly 1,000' route on the east side of Lower Tokapah ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Lubken Creek Canyon, Rusty Trinkets
AN ATTRACTIVE and sheer granitic wall juts out of the North Fork of Lubken Creek Canyon, south of Tuttle ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Checkered Demon, Northeast Arête, Dancing with the Devil
MANY HUNDREDS have passed by the Checkered Demon (13,121’) while descending from the adjacent and popular East Arête of Mt. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Bubbs Creek Wall, Panda Express
During the summer of 2017, Adam Sheppard, Daniel Jeffcoach, and I went out to Bubbs Creek Wall and attempted a line ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Sawmill Canyon, Sawmill Spire
On October 20, Myles Moser, Amy Ness, and I hiked into the mouth of rugged Sawmill Canyon from the edge of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Wheeler Crest, New Routes
SCOTT SINNER AND I FOUND the formation we named the Black Obelisk by accident after following some bad guidebook ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Ice Couloirs Above Bishop
OVER TWO SEASONS, in the winter and fall of 2018, several partners and I did first ascents of three ice couloirs ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Mt. Le Conte, Space Force
Since Roger Putnam and I are in the process of writing a guidebook to the High Sierra, we had planned ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
The Cleaver, Dot the T’s and Dreamliner
In late May and June, Shaun Reed and I made two quick trips to climb on the southeast face of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Third Recess Peak, Direct Northeast Buttress
The day after a climb on the Ruby Wall in September, Maxim Belyakov and I decided to check out Third ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Mt. Ericcson Area, New Routes
In mid-May, Chaz Langlier and I made a trip to East Lake, south of the Bubbs Creek drainage, a beautiful ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Lone Pine Peak, New Route and First Free Ascents
Ever since Roger Putnam and I started to work on a complete guide to the High Sierra, I became increasingly ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019