American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

159 Records

Title Publication Year
Tranokitily Dome, Sweet Avocado
Madagascar’s Tsaranoro Valley has been described as the Yosemite of Africa . But on its big, mostly crackless granite walls, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Peak 7,984', Attempt; Serendipity Spire, Charlie Zulu
“When is this storm gonna end?!” a local pilot asked. Speculation erupted from almost every weary patron in Conscious Coffee, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Cerro Esquinero, Northeast and Northwest Faces
On January 29, 2018, Szu-ting Yi and I met Juan Carlos Martinez, a fisherman in Villa La Angostura, Argentina. He warily eyed ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
La Catedral, The First Lucky Strike
AT THE END OF JANUARY, Christian Fascendini, Matěj Svojtka, and I arrived in Basaseachi National Park with one goal: ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
La Hune Headwall, Solo First Ascent
I huddled over my gear on the slippery boat ramp of Francois Harbor on the southwest coast of Newfoundland, contents ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Illimani, Pico Norte, South Spur, 1989 Ascent
The elegant south spur of the west ridge of Pico Norte (6,403m), attempted in 2014 and reported to be unclimbed in&...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Chamlang, North Spur, Attempt
During the pre-monsoon season, a French team comprising Laurent Bibollet, Lise Billon, Emmanuel Chance, Aymeric Clouet, and Sébastien Corret ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Cerro Riso Patrón Sur, Southwest Face
From February 9 to March 3, 2018, we spent 22 days in Chile’s O’Higgins National Park, hoping to climb Cerro Riso Patró...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Avellano Towers, South Avellano Tower, East Face
FAR FROM the ever-connected hustle of modern life, deep in the heart of northern Chilean Patagonia, the pristine granite faces ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
West Lion, North Couloir Direct
On February 16, Tim Nielsen and I hiked up to the north face of West Lion (49°27'28"N, 123°11'11"W), just ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
CCKN, South Face, Attempt
In June, Damien Gildea attempted the south face of CCKN (6,303m, a.k.a. Chau Chau Kang Nilda, the “Blue ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Tarke Kang and Tare Kang, Clarification of Names and Ascents
Looking west from the summit of Gangapurna.  Various mountaineers have ascended the peak labeled "D" from the north (right) ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Ledge Fall After Failing to Clip Bolt
On April 12, at approximately 1:15 p.m., the Coconino County Sheriff's Office received a call regarding an accident at the Pit . ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2019
Shkhara Main, Partial Ski Descent
In the summer of 2010 , Boris Avdeev (an American resident) and I went to the Caucasus, where we climbed Shkhara (5,193m) ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Shkhara West, Southwest Couloir (Not to Summit) and Ski Descent
Browsing Google Earth, I came across an impressive wall of 5,000m mountains on the Georgia-Russia border . By searching the AAJ, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Cerro Willa Sallaloma, Southwest Ridge; Cerro Arkhata, Southeast Face, The Keep; Mururata, South Face, Power to the Process
From mid-June to mid-July, Brian Houle and I visited the Cordillera Real to explore new technical routes on some of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Jeanette Peak, First Known Ascent
On April 2, at 5:10 p.m., Canadians Vern Stice of Edmonton, Pascale Marceau of Canmore, and I (from Minnesota) reached the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Fifth Koksil Glacier, Chapchingol Sar and Other Peaks
Tomaž Goslar, Mojca Švajger, and I arrived in Pakistan on July 10 with the aim of climbing a high peak in ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Pik Korzhenevskaya, South Face, Ol'cha
In January a four-man Kyrgyz-Russian team climbed a new route up the middle of the south face of Korzhenevskaya (7,105m) ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Laila, Northwest Face, First Complete Ski Descent
On May 5, in poor weather, Carole Chambaret, Boris Langenstein, and I (all French) established base camp at Dalsampa (ca 4,200m) ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Dhechyan Kang, First Official Ascent; Nagoru Far East, West Ridge
Dhechyan Kang (6,019m, 29.036532°N, 84.249716°E) was opened for mountaineering in 2014 but has no recorded ascent. I found this rather surprising, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Sri Kailas West, First Ascent via South Face
After searching for a destination offering a potential first ascent, Alex Gammeter and I decided on the Gangotri. Two different ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Rangston Gyathok, Southwest Ridge and West Face
On July 22 our Estonian expedition summited Peak 6,801m GPS (6,751m on the Indian map; 34°37'06.3192"N, 78°04'38.7084"E), the highest ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Pico Cão Grande: First Ascent of Leve Leve and Free Ascents of Nubivagant
THE IDEA CAME UP as it often does, after a nice afternoon of climbing and a well-deserved beer . A ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Rappel Error – Uneven Ropes, No Stopper Knots
On July 2, at 1:15 p.m., the Coconino County Sheriff's Office received a report of a climbing accident at Oak Creek ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2019
Chiling I, East Ridge, and the Enigma of Z2
Chiling I (left) and II from the Lalung Glacier to the northeast. The east ridge of Chiling I, climbed in 2017, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Tsaranoro Atsimo, Soava Dia; Chameleon, Les Vazahamateurs
From June 5 to 25, a group of six young climbers of the Fédération Française de la Montagne et ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Pico 24 September, Monypenny-McGhie Route
LATE IN THE climbing season of 2017, Harry McGhie and I (both U.K.) headed to the east side of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Lyap Nazar, First Ski Descent
Peter Schön and Andreas Riesner made the first ski descent of Lyap Nazar (5,990m) in August 2009 . This peak, recently ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Pik Pobeda East, First Ski Descent
IN THE SUMMER of 2010, after a  ski descent from Shkhara  in the Georgian Caucasus , Peter Schön ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Bedayan Minaret, East Ridge
On July 10, Giselle Fernandez and I made the first known ascent of the east ridge of Bedayan Minaret (12,080’). This feature ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
West Kahiltna Peak, Southwest Face, Ride the Bullet
On April 13, Kurt Ross, Steven Van Sickle, and I flew into Kahiltna International and skied to a point near Camp 1 ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Jim Bridwell, 1944 – 2018
THE WORLD has lost a great climber, friend, and mentor . Jim Bridwell made huge contributions to the world of climbing. ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2019
Cathedral Peak, Noble Beast
Cathedral Peak’s big east-facing wall, rising above Cathedral Lake in the eastern Wind Rivers, has a long history, attracting ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Charlotte Fox, 1957 – 2018
Charlotte Fox was strong and good in the mountains, not known for speed so much as being able to go ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2019
Muz Tau (Sauyr Zhotasy), Attempt from the Northeast
After an attempt from the south in 2017 ( AAJ 2018 ) , Er ic Kowalski, Alex Tang, and I returned to the China-Kazakhstan border ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Tom Frost, 1937 – 2018
On August 24, Tom Frost—whose character and influence outshone his remarkable routes—died peacefully after a short battle ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2019
Edward Cummings Boulton, 1927 – 2018
Edward (“Ed”) Boulton died at his home in North Seattle on September 27, 2018. He was 91 . Ed was born and raised in ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2019
Mt. Blane, West Face, Life Compass
I met Brette Harrington at Gripped  magazine editor Brandon Pullan’s house—a veritable couch-surfing operation for climbers ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Negruni Range, Peak 5,396m, Traverse via Southwest Ridge and East Ridge
In March, Bolivian resident Davide Vitale and friends traversed Peak 5,396m in the Negruni Range of the central Cordillera Real. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Chatyn-tau, North Face, First Free Ascent
From July 24–27, 2016, Maciej Bedrejczuk, Piotr Sulowski, and I made the first free ascent of the Rhombus, the outstanding north-facing feature ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Tsaranoro Atsimo, Blood Moon
Above the tiny rural villages of Madagascar’s Tsaranoro Valley, the granite walls stand proudly like ancient giants. The stone ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Peak 6,153m, East-Northeast Ridge; Peak 5,920m, North Ridge
A five-man Japanese expedition comprising Tetsuji Otsue (leader), Shigekazu Kawajiri, Kiyotaka Nakamura, Koji Matsumoto, and Goto Tomio, with three Nepalese ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Baihali Jot, Northwest Pillar, Attempt
A BORDER DISPUTE with China dashed our hopes of a permit for Rangrik Rang, but at the last minute ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Ryan Johnson, 1983 – 2018
On a blindingly sunny day, March 5, 2018, Ryan Johnson's face radiated with the kind of satisfaction only an alpinist can appreciate . ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2019
Peak 8,505’, First Ascent
On May 3, 2017, Barry Smith and I touched down on the southernmost prong of the Pitchfork Glacier in the Neacola Range ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Ground Fall – Inadequate Equipment, Inexperience
On September 9, at 1:20 p.m., Coconino County Sheriff’s Office and other agencies responded to a report of a 12-year-old ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2019
Leader Fall on Rock
The Coconino County Sheriff's Office Search and Rescue Unit responded to a report of a climbing accident at Paradise Forks ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2019
Mendenhall Tower, North Face
On March 4, Juneau resident Ryan Johnson and Canadian Marc-André Leclerc started up the unclimbed north face of the Main Tower (6,910’) ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Akka’n Tazarte, New Routes
Bernard Marnette and I have visited Taghia several times, aiming to climb classic routes or to open new ones. When ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019