American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

50 Records

Title Publication Year
Nangamari II, Northeast Ridge from the East
Nangamari I (center) and II (left). The 2016 first ascent of Nangamari II gained the col between the two peaks, then ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Kang Nachugo, South Face and West Ridge
I had intended to try the unclimbed east face of Kang Nachugo (6,737m) in 2015, but the massive earthquake prevented access ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Cuernos del Diablo, Southwest Face, Don Rayo
In April a group of aspirant guides underwent UIAGM training in the mountains of Bolivia, during which time they spent ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Oxford Glacier, Island Peak, East Face and South Ridge; Snow Dome, North Ridge; Panorama Peak, South Ridge
The Stauning Alps of northeast Greenland are bounded to north by the King Oscar Fjord, to the east by the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Pik Semenova Tian-Shanski, Northwest Face
Route 3 is the 2015 Aitken-Potockiy Route. See photos below for other routes.  The Ala Archa is a popular and easily ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Linzhou Taihang Canyon, Merry Christmas
Over Christmas 2016, pictures of a large icefall strongly resembling a Christmas tree circulated on Wechat (a free messaging and calling ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Sokuluk Valley, Chon-tor, Northwest Face, Glazunov Route
In February 2016, just a few weeks after the presumed first ascent of Chon-tor (ca 4,180m) by Egor Suzdaltsov and Ivan ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
At Bashi Ski Mountaineering
The At Bashi Range is particularly suitable for ski mountaineering and still has around 60 peaks above 4,000m that remain unclimbed . ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Punchen Himal North, Northwest Face and Northwest Ridge
Punchen Himal (6,049m, 28°39'40N, 85°08'48E) lies on the Nepal-Tibet border, 30km north of Ganesh I (7,422m). It had ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Peak 6,010m, North Face and East-Southeast Ridge (Within 30m of Summit)
Our original goal was to climb the north face of Lobuche West (6,145m). Joao Garcia and I approached up the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Rolwaling Kang, South Face
In October-November 2015, we organized our first “Himalayan Camp,” with the aim of helping Japanese newcomers to the Himalaya climb safely ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Pumori, South Face, Attempted New Route
Our expedition was an adventure from beginning to end. Our proposed route on Pumori (7,148m) followed a direct line up ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Rappel Error – Uneven Ropes, No Stopper Knots
At 7:15 p.m. on July 15, a 22-year-old male climber rappelled off one of the ends of his rope while descending ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2018
Rappel Error – Uneven Ropes, No Stopper Knots
At approximately 5:30 p.m. on March 25, a 25-year-old male climber set up a rappel at the bolted anchors of Frigidator ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2018
Mt. Proteus, South Face
Standing proud as the tallest peak in the Battle Range, Mt. Proteus (3,198m) has a striking south face that just ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Ledge Fall – Inadequate Protection
On the afternoon of June 3, a male climber (age unknown) was attempting to lead the route Ritz Cracker, a 5.9 trad ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2018
Diagonal Will Buttress, Mango Tango
On May 4, Much Mayr and I completed a new route on the Black Canyon’s Diagonal Wall, ground-up and in ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Gran Muralla, Northwest Face, Kamasa
I set off from Italy with Giovanni Penna and Marco Rainone to achieve two goals: working with the Università Campesina ...
AAJ
Accident Reports
2018
Talgar, West Face, Partial New Route and First Ski and Snowboard Descent
The Zayliyskiy Alatau is the most northerly system of the Tien Shan ( see note below ). It extends around 350km and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Kijai Nala: Peak 6,038m, North Ridge; Arjuna, West Face
Visiting the Kijai Nala had been on the bucket list for Hayden Kennedy, Marko Prezelj, and me since 2015, when we ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Dogtooth Pinnacle, Once Bitten
On the east-facing aspect of the Monolith Cirque, the towering sub-buttresses of Dog Tooth Peak are stacked up like a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Kolob Canyons, Juj Monster
During a stretch of good weather in March, Mike Brumbaugh and I established a new route on the red sandstone ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Umiguqjuaq Wall, Marooned at Midnight
The two of us had been dreaming of an expedition to Baffin Island’s big walls ever since we started ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Many First Ascents Near Barbeau Peak
Brian Friedrich traversing the previously unclimbed east ridge of Griper (2,417m). Photo by Eric Gilbertson BARBEAU PEAK (2,616m) is ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Peak 9,331’, Northeast Face, and New Routes on Mt. Grenville and Galleon Peak
I FIRST LAID EYES upon the beautiful northeast face of Peak 9,331’ while walking across the Homathko Icefield in the early ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Minotaur Tower, Suburban Blondes, First Free Ascent
SUBURBAN BLONDES (IV 5.9 C2+) is a relatively obscure aid route up the 850-foot Minotaur Tower, which rises along the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Rucho, East Face and South Ridge
IN EARLY 2010, the government of India opened 104 peaks in the Zanskar region. One of these was unnamed “Peak 6,000m,” ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Machu, Southwest Ridge, Attempt
In June, Aiden Laffey and I attempted Machu (6,630m, 36.234967°N, 75.051874°E) in the Hispar Valley . As far as I could ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Blåtinden, Nightwatch Pillar
In September I sat in my house in Uløya through amazingly stable weather . Finally, I couldn't bear the pressure ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Shivling, Northeast and North Faces, Partial New Route
ONCE AGAIN Simon Gietl and I were at the gas station in Toblacher Kreuzung, having a quick coffee before climbing . ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Central and Western At Bashi: Pik Rhianydd and Other Ascents
Kyrgyzstan is rich in little-explored mountains. One example is the At Bashi, a beautiful range of snowy summits and technical ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Tha Nagphu, North Ridge; Sharphu I, Attempt
Sharphu is a collection of peaks on a north-south ridge to the west of Kambachen, forming the watershed between the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Unaweep Wall, Wintertime Joy
On a rainy April day, Curtis Chabot and I carried 1,000’ of static line and a double set of cams up ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Tabsar Southwest Top, Northeast Ridge
Tabsar (Tobsar) was brought onto the permitted list in 2002 . On the HGM-Finn map it is clearly marked as Tabsar (6,065m) ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Sue's Spire, West-Southwest Face; Boughfell, Southwest Face
During April, Jesse Dufton, Alastair Everett, Oliver Mentz, Jennifer Roberts, and Molly Thompson (expedition leader) completed a self-supported expedition ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Bugaboo Spire, North Face, Tutti-Frutti Summer Love
In early August, Tom Schindfessel (Belgium) and Vlad Capusan (Romania) established a long new route on the north face of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Halgurd, First Ski Descent
In late February, in partnership with Dutch guide Jan Bakker, I led a small team of American skiers on what ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Kichik-Alai (Little Alai), Gezart Valley: Korly-too, North Ridge; Pik Kamar (a.k.a. Djumas), Southeast Slopes and Upper East Ridge
In August we visited the Gezart Valley, establishing base camp at 3,550m, not far from the start of the Gezart ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Saltoro Range, Attempts in the Kondus Valley; Deosai Mountains, Peak Nic, Good, No Good
After months of waiting—and in the end only four weeks before we were due to leave Italy—...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Khalkhal West, Southwest Ridge; Praqpa Ri, Southeast Top, East-Southeast Ridge
(A) Khalkhal West, (B) Praqpa Ri southeast top, and (C) Praqpa Ri (Central), seen from the east across the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Sumur Glacier, Various Ascents
UNTIL RECENTLY, there has been little exploration by foreign mountaineers of the more remote areas of the East Karakoram . The ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Heart Mountain, Heart Line
HEART MOUNTAIN is a very popular scrambling peak along the Bow Valley, just an hour’s drive from Calgary. I’...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Laylak Valley, Peak 4,800m, Northwest Pillar, Alexandra Supernova
FOR MANY YEARS I had dreamed of going to Kyrgyzstan to climb perfect granite walls above green meadows filled with ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Himlung East, West Ridge; East-West Traverse of Himlung Himal
  I live right below La Meije in the Ecrins Massif of France, and it is a pleasure to be ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Purkung, North Face; Belgian Peak, West Ridge; New Traverse from the Teri La to Muktinath
The primary aim of our trip was to climb summits of the Teri Himal, a small subrange northeast of the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Thunder Mountain, West Face to North Face
At 2,773m (9,097’), Thunder Mountain (Mt. Nirvana) is the tallest peak in the Northwest Territories. Prior to 2017, it had received five ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Valhalla Ranges Update
OVER THE PAST few years, Valhalla Provincial Park—a once-sleepy alpine climbing destination about 100km southwest of the Bugaboos, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Maidon Sar (a.k.a. Darmyani Peak), East Ridge from the South
Looking northwest across the Passu Glacier to (A) Passu Sar East (6,842m), (B) Noukarsich (6,498m), (C) Maidon Sar (6,085m, Spanish, 1985), ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Goat Wall, Fluffy Goat Butt-Face
ABOUT 20KM EAST of Canmore is one of the most impressive rock features in the Bow Valley: the Goat ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Tumbling Boulder Injures Belayer
On October 11, four climbers and I were cragging in Day Canyon . After warming up on a nearby climb, my partner ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2018