American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

443 Records

Title Publication Year
Norwich Ledge, Parmotrema Arnoldii
Norwich Ledge is a 100m rhyolite escarpment north of Bergland, in Michigan’s Upper Peninsula. Since learning of this cliff ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Historical Correction: The First Ascent of Høngbjerg (a.k.a. Mt. Mighty)
In AAJ 2016 we reported Jim Gregson’s second known ascent of Mt. Mighty and an addendum where he described finding ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Wolf Bauer, 1912 – 2016
Pioneering Northwest skier, climber, rescuer, kayaker, and conservationist Wolf Bauer died on January 23, a month shy of his 104th birthday . ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2017
Neacola Mountains: New Routes, Attempts, and Packraft Adventure
A couple of years ago, a photo of unclimbed spires rising out of glacial ice sparked the inspiration for an ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Sairam, North Face, New Variation
Sairam (4,238m, 42°8'16.04"N, 70°28'50.44"E) is situated on the Ugam Ridge of the Western Tien Shan, approximately 150km northeast ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Failure to Tie In
Jaime Cavazos on Super Cruiser, the short, overhanging route where the author fell. The shelf where the author first landed ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Incredible Hulk: Lenticular Gyrations
On September 5, Jeff Gicklhorn, Patrick O'Donnell, and I free climbed a new route on the Incredible Hulk. Jeff and I ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Stok Range, Sukhu Kangri, Northeast Face and Southeast Ridge; Kang Yatze Group, Dzo Jongo, Northwest Face and East Ridge
Sergio Martín de Santos and I arrived in Leh on June 30, and after acclimatizing near town we headed to ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Pandra, East Face, Attempt
Kei Taniguchi and I established base camp for our attempt on Pandra after traveling three days by bus and eight ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
The Citadel: Westman's World
On April 21, after six weeks of watching from a distance as a gigantic storm system pummeled the Alaska Range, Jess ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Fall into Crevasse – Climbing Alone
On the morning of February 8, Jacob “Jake” Lloyd, an experienced mountaineer from Utah, was climbing alone on the Jamapa Glacier, ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Arctic Lake Wall: Chillin' the Most
On July 18, Ryan Evans and I climbed what we believe to be a new route on the Arctic Lake Wall ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Lomo, Northwest Face; Piramidalny, Northeast Face
Max Ten and I established two new routes from the Kara-su Valley in July. First, in order to acclimatize, we ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Gulmit Tower, Attempt; Pregar, South Face to Just Below Summit
Looking north from Karun Pir (Pass) at an unnamed and probably unclimbed peak of around 6,000m (left) and Pregar, with ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Everest, North-Northeast Face, New Line to North Ridge (No Summit)
Spanish climber and mountain runner Kilian Jornet planned to attempt a record-breaking speed ascent and descent of the north side ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Jakoceri: Southwest Face, Milanesa Patentada
Although exhausted from a season in Patagonia, we still had something left in the tank and were hungry for big ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Jakoceri, South Ridge and Traverse to Chachacomani
It was 2 a.m. on May 25 at the base camp for ascents of Chachacomani from the west. Jules Jenner and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Rumi Mallku, North Face, Mindfulness; Jakoceri, Variation to South Ridge
Jakoceri (ca 5,800m; ca 5,900m on Google Earth) is a southwesterly outlier of Chachacomani (6,074m) and is characterized by a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Hall Peak and Block Tower: New Routes
In August, Jenny Abegg, Alix Morris, Forest Woodward, and Graham Zimmerman visited the Leaning Towers of the Purcell Wilderness Conservancy ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
The Albatross and the Shiv, New Routes
Pouring rain, nightmarish mosquitos, tussock bog–hopping with 90-pound packs—the struggle was real when Cigdem Milobinski, Nick Pappas, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Kimshung: Southwest Face Attempt
Standing to the east of Langtang Lirung, Kimshung (6,781m) has no recorded ascent. On October 6, François Cazzanelli, Giampaolo Corona, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Incredible Hulk, Wind Shear
Just when we thought that the Hulk had been pretty much tapped out of quality long, independent lines , Peter Croft ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Sheep River Glacier: Alpine Rock Routes
Over seven days in the middle of July, Chris Williams, Gus Barber, and I climbed three new routes above the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Mt. MacDonald, Little Face, Position of Comfort
High above the Trans-Canada Highway, in the Rogers Pass area, Mt. MacDonald (2,883m) holds a commanding view . The peak ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Cracked Ice Arena: New Rock Routes
Over the course of multiple weekends throughout July and August, a group of friends and I completed nine long new ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Bedson Ridge Major, New Route
Bedson Ridge is a beautiful gray and yellow wall of south-facing limestone that stands 1,000’ above the Athabasca River. Although contained ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Nevado Jatunhuma, East Face
On June 1, Nathan Heald (Peru) and I climbed a new route on the east face (700m, D+) of Nevado Jatunhuma (6,141...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
"Pico Carol," South Face; Papaccapac, South and East Faces
On June 29, Vahi Beltrami (Chile), Yasu Beltrami (Chile), German Silva (Chile) Nathan Heald (Peru), Duncan McDaniel (USA), Aaron Zimmerman (USA), ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Nevado Huayruro Punco, West Face; Nevado Parcocaya, South Face
On July 16, I traveled into the Vilcanota Range with my client John Lewis (USA) and assistant guide Luis Crispin (Peru) ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Nyainbo Yuze Massif: Le Petit Géant and Jaoma
Inspired by an article in  AAJ 2014 , Jessica Keil and I traveled to the Nyainbo Yuze range of Qinghai. In ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Rappel Error – Inexperience, Inadequate Backup
Chris Larson (unrelated to the incident described here) ascends Bee Sting Corner. Photo by Kyle Stapp On April 17 an inexperienced ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Wall Tower: The White Tiger
On June 25, Paul Bonnell, Vince Ryglis, Kale Semar, and I began the arduous approach to the Leaning Towers in the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Tetnuldi: North Face, New Route
Tetnuldi (4,853m, 43°01′52″N, 42°59′35″E) is a beautiful, pyramidal mountain of the Central Caucasus. It is located in Upper Svaneti and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
The Chinese Puzzle Wall: Hidden Dragon
Marc-André Leclerc first pointed out the Chinese Puzzle Wall to me three years ago, as we climbed the Northeast Buttress ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Buzchubek Valley: Karasak from the West
The Sarykol Range forms part of the frontier between Tajikistan and China and is officially off-limits. Virtually everything to the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Loinbo Kangri, North-Northwest Face, Loinbo Direct
On September 8, Kazuya Hiraide and Kenro Nakajima arrived in Lhasa, and three days later reached the village of Kajang by 4...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Pogolha (Jang Tsang Go), Northeast Face and East Ridge
In September, Domen Kastelic (Slovenia), Marcus Palm (Sweden), and I traveled to Tibet to attempt two peaks in the Qungmo ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Nipissis River Area, Le Mur du 51, New Routes
The Nipissis area is a premiere ice climbing venue in Québec that was discovered by Patrice Beaudet during a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Washakie Lake, Big Chief Buttress, The Non-Obvious Garden Tour
In August 1993, Lorna Corson and Norm Larson climbed one pitch up Big Chief Buttress, an unclimbed 900-foot tower in the ...
AAJ 2017
Celeno Peak: West Face Direct
As the plane swooped into the Canyon Creek Glacier, Chris Wright and I caught the first glimpse of our objective: ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Dog Tooth Peak, Wisdom Tooth, Infinite Jest
Over the course of two weeklong trips, one in September 2015 and one in August-September 2016, Trey Warren, Tyler Barker, and I ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Central Tower of Rapa Nui: The Northern Belle
On June 18, Chris Moore, Cooper Varney, Will Wacker, and I completed the first ascent of the Central Tower of Rapa ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Rattlesnake
A French “Roc Aventure Programme” team from the Fédération Française de la Montagne et de l’Escalade (...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
New Routes on Mt. Tuzo and Neptuak Mountain
Between April 1 and 11, Canadian alpinist Marc-André Leclerc and I climbed three new routes in the Valley of the Ten Peaks. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Boyden Cave Wall, Magic Mountain Marble Majesty
When you're driving toward Kings Canyon, there are some giant marble buttresses on the left side of the road, but ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Castle Rocks Area: New Route and First Free Ascent
On June 5, Neal Harder, Chris LaBounty, and I established the Surge (1,000', 5.8) on the Fortress, in the Castle Rocks area ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Flatiron Butte: Golden Triangle
On June 24, Damien Nicodemi and I climbed a new route on the east face of Flatiron Butte, located to the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Thunder Mountain (Mt. Nirvana), Unsupported Ascent, and Peak 46
On June 13, Len Vanderstar and I set out on an expedition to make the first ascent of Thunder Mountain (9,097’, a....
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Primitive Buttress: Lost World and Dawn Chimney
Adam Pecan and I met in Li Ming (Liming) and spent October and November establishing free routes to the tops ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Flatiron Butte: Multiple New Routes
Over three days in early July, Jonathan Schaffer and I established four new lines on Flatiron Butte's prominent east face. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017