American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

443 Records

Title Publication Year
Red Sentinel, Human Centipede 5
Number 4 is the new free route Human Centipede 5. See images below for complete route listings. Photo by Brian ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Fighting Till Dawn
I'm a very big fan of solitude. In the Vampire Peaks, there's no hype, no circus of other climbers racing ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Texas Tower, East Face, First Free Ascent
I have been frequenting the desert of southern Utah for over a decade, concentrating mostly on the obscure and wide ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Kara-su Valley, Various Ascents
Gian Luca Cavalli, Pier Luigi Maschietto, Edoardo Polo, and I arrived in Bishkek on July 31, 2015. Giovanni Pagnoncelli joined us at ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Urkinmang, North-Northeast Face and Northeast Ridge; Kimshung Attempt
Alex Gammeter and I spent April in the Langtang Valley. After traversing Tsergo Ri (5,749m) via an ascent of the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Ghorhil Sar, Correction
In 2006, Lee Harrison and Peter Thompson made the first ascent of a peak they named Ghorhil Sar (ca 5,800m) on ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Yazghil Sar, Northeast Ridge
When they climbed Yazghil Sar (5,964m) in 2006 ( AAJ 2007 ), Lee Harrison and Peter Thompson (U.K.) believed they were repeating the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Judl Peak, Northwest Ridge
The Honboro Group, with a high point at Honboro Peak (6,459m), lies northwest and west of the Hushe Valley, between ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Huayna Potosi, West Spur and South Ridge
From July 21–23, 2015, Gabor Fuchs and Dominik Osswald (Switzerland) made a possible new line on Huayna Potosi (6,088m) when they climbed ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Wila Lloje Group, Peak 5,550m, Northwest Face
On June 26, 2012, I climbed a possible new route on Peak 5,550m , one of the subpeaks east of Wila Lloje. I ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Pico Milluni, South Summit, East Face, GCP
On September 21, 2015, Grover Rene Mamani, Sergio Dalenz Quispe, and I added another route to the east face of Milluni’s ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Thunder Mountain, South Face, Thunderstruck; Mt. Providence, South Face, Outside Providence
The reports began trickling in before we even got on the plane to Anchorage—shoulder-deep snow on the glacier, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Balagezong Massif: Photos of Unclimbed Peaks and Observations on the Influx of Tourism
In January 2004 a letter arrived from William Bueler in Colorado (author of the Roof of the Rockies climbing history) with ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Peak 6,071m (a.k.a. Kang Tari), Northwest Face, To Hell With Our Body
Jorge Cuadardo, Angel Salamanca, and Javi San Miguel arrived in Nepal in late April, and during their time in the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Kishtwar Shivling, East Pillar, Via dei Trentini (to top of pillar)
For years my brother Silvestro and I had the east pillar of Kishtwar Shivling in mind, and finally in the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Hattal, Southeast Ridge, First Ascent and Geographical Clarification
On July 25, 1986, Japanese mountaineers made the first ascent of Hattal (ca 5,650m; H18 on the Sakamoto sketch map of the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Mt. Parofes and Other Volcano Ascents
Mt. Parofes is a 5,845m volcano that rises between Pissis and Bonete in Argentina’s La Rioja Province . It was ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Chhogo Valley, T16, South Summit, Southwest Face; T13, Northwest Ridge, Attempt
Working with a report in the Japanese Alpine News by Kimikazu Sakamoto and some Google Earth imagery, but with limited ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Asperity Mountain, Southwest Face, Happy Trio
While I was taking my ACMG apprentice alpine guide exam, Craig McGee, one of my instructors, told me about the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Triangle Peak, West Face, Possible First Ascent
In April 2015, Bryan Sehmel and I climbed the west face of Triangle Peak in the Delta Mountains, an eastern subrange ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Illimani, South Face, Variation to Original Route
On June 22, 2015, French alpinist and Bolivian resident Anne Bialek, accompanied by Bolivian UIAGM guides Hugo Ayaviri Quispe and Rolando Tarqui ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Mirador Wall, Rarámuri Southwest
For some years I have been captivated by the many big walls in Basaseachi Falls National Park. At 2,700’, El Gigante ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Squamish Update: Major New Routes and Crags, 2014–2016
One thing that can be said about the Great White North’s preeminent crag is that it’s no longer ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Pacokeuta, South Face, Partial New Route
In October 2015, Mattia Buzzetti and I climbed an icefall on the south face of Pacokeuta (5,589m), which can be clearly ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Pico Italia, East Face, Al Fondo Hay Sitio; New Pico Italia–Huayna Potosi Link-Up
On June 8, Rodrigo Lobo and I made the first ascent of Al Fondo Hay Sitio on the east face of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Jakoceri, Southwest Face, Never Ending Story
In mid-March, Johnny Ticona (Bolivia), Davide Vitale (Italy/Belgium, resident in Bolivia), and I made what we believe to be ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Mt. Slesse, Indirect East Face
The first repeat of the East Face Route (ED2 VI 5.9 A3+) on Mt. Slesse—first climbed in 1997 by Sean ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Wheeler Crest: Many New Routes
In the fall of 2015, I began exploring the expansive Wheeler Crest, repeating a few of the classic routes with friends. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Pico Cão Grande, Nubivagant
I first came to know of Pico Cão Grande early in 2015 while searching for a big wall that was ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Snowpatch Spire, Minotaur Direct; Eastpost Spire, Sick and Twisted
On August 19, Colin Moorhead and I rolled out of Golden at 6 p.m. for the Bugaboos. Fifty-one hours later we ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Hrútsfjallstindar, South Face of East Peak, Lucky Leif
In late March, Eythan Sontag and I (both from the U.S.) climbed a new route on the south face ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Fall on Rock – Lowering Errors, Rope Too Short
I had run up the route Godzilla (5.9) to put up a top-rope for my girlfriend and her family . At the ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Hallett Peak, Fourth Buttress
Just to the right of the Third Buttress of Hallett Peak and the nasty descent gully for Hallett’s western ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Gasherbrum VI, Southwest Ridge, Attempt; Praqpa Ri, East-Southeast Ridge, Attempt
My partner, Ralf Dujmovits, and I spent the months of June and July attempting two unclimbed 7,000m peaks, Gasherbrum VI ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Maedan Glacier, Porok Ri, West Ridge; Nera Peak, West Flank
Supported by the German Alpine Club, Matthias Bohe, Harry Kirschenhofer, Philipp Moser, Chris Romeike, and I began our journey on ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Don Gordon, 1931 – 2016
An intensely private man, Don Gordon passed away in April 2016 in the Capitol Hill neighborhood of Seattle, where he lived ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2017
Allen Frame Hill, 1962 – 2016
Allen Frame Hill, a prominent Colorado climber, filmmaker, and climbing historian, passed away March 24 at age 53. A longtime Denver resident, ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2017
Bazar-Dara Valley, Ski Mountaineering First Ascents
In September 2013, Jamie Bunchuk and Matt Traver traveled to the Alichursky Mountains to make a documentary about a Kyrgyzstani-Tajik hunter ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Fall on Rock – Fatigue, Inadequate Protection
I met Birch Malotky in Colorado and we unexpectedly made plans to travel the next day to the Wind River ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Mt. Mizugaki, Moai Face, First Free Ascent
The Moai Face is a smooth wave of granite that rises out of the pines at Mt. Mizugaki, one of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Notch Peak, Notch Your Business
Late August in the western Utah desert is hot. Bird-size bugs terrorize the unsuspecting, scorpions dwell under tents, and tarantulas ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
The Merlon, North Face: Three New Routes
The glacier was calving every half hour all day and all night. A thundering boom would reverberate off the narrow ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Fall on Rock
On October 6, at approximately 3 p.m., the Coconino County Sheriff's Office received a 911 call from a climber (Person 1) who stated ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
New Routes On Taulliraju and Other Ascents
At the end of May, the Expedition Climbers Club set out from New Zealand for a five-week trip to the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Altar Massif, Canónigo, Southwest Ridge (Elena Ridge)
During the 1970s, when the Altar Massif saw many of its first ascents, the well-known Ecuadorian climber Ramiro Navarrete ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Anfiteatro, Wall of Patience, Iron Skirt
In early 2016, JB Haab and I opened a new route on the Wall of Patience ground-up, calling it Iron Skirt.&...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Cerro Capicua, West Face, Picaflor
In February 2016, Martin Håskjold Larsen, Clare Mains, Barry Smith, Fernando Virot, and I opened a new route on the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Kangertitivatsiaq Fjord, Mythics Cirque: Hidden Tower, Cinderella Ridge; Aurora Tower, Southwest Ridge
Matthew Irving (USA), Julian Kenchenten (Canada), Paolo Marazzi (Italy), Angela Percival (Canada), Vikki Weldon (Canada), and I left Isafjordur, Iceland, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Muz Tok, North Face, Attempt
  Muz Tok: (1) The attempted line on the north face with the bivouac (B) marked; (2) The route used in ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
An Untimely Slip
On June 29, Chad Watkins (age 49) was attempting the crux of the route Big Top, a 5.12a trad climb in the ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017