American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

464 Records

Title Publication Year
Fall on Rock – Inadequate Belay
On June 6, I was climbing a route near Scary Llamas (a.k.a. Hissing Llamas, a 5.8 sport climb) on ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2016
Fall on Rock – Inadequate Belay, Rope Too Short
On a mid-September evening, Person 1, age 29, with many years of climbing experience, led the limestone sport climb Pleasant Dreams (5.9+) on ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2016
Charquini, Southwest Face, Partial New Route
1 - Don’t Let the Walls Cave in on You (2015). 2 - Recuperated Abandonment (2014). With José Callisaya, a mountain ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Link Sar West, Northwest Face
Situated between K6 and K7, the unclimbed Link Sar (7,041m) derives it name from being the “linking” peak between these ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Cresta la Vertebra, New Routes
Manu Chance and I arrived in La Paz on May 12 and began our acclimatization for an ascent of the  ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Illimani, South Face, Partial New Route
Manu Chance and I left France with the explicit aim of climbing the south face of Illimani (6,438m). We acclimatized ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Illimani, South Face, Directa Italiana
The south face of Illimani (6,439m) showing the two partial new routes climbed in 2015. (1) Por la Vida (2015). (2) Hubert Ducroz (1988). (3) Original ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Condoriri Region, Innominado (a.k.a. Alpamayo Negro), Southwest Ridge Direct
After their partial new route on the  south face of Illimani , Marco Farina and Marco Majori returned to La ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
El Capitan, Southwest Face, Heart Route (First Free Ascent)
While free climbing El Capitan’s Golden Gate (VI 5.13b, Huber-Huber,  AAJ 2001 ) in 2009, I spotted a system of beautiful ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Pico Los Zondinos, Dioses del Ocaso
From March 20–22, Roberto Piriz and I climbed a new route on a rocky satellite peak of Cerro Tolosa (5,432m), known ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
El Perfil, Northeast Face, Cochamojó
In February, Jim Taylor and I established a beautiful line he’d scoped out the year before, on a feature ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Great Cross Pillar, Deconstructing Jenga
In early May, Cheyne Lempe and I traveled to the Sam Ford Fjord of Baffin Island and established a new ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Snowpatch Spire, East Face, New Routes
Over the last decade or so, the 500m east face of Snowpatch Spire has been transformed into one of the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
South Howser Tower, Northeast Face, It Is What It Is
In mid-October, Toshiyuki Yamada and I climbed a new route on the northeast face of South Howser Tower. The best ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Storm Mountain, Northeast Face, Kogarashi
In May, Toshiyuki Yamada and I climbed a new route on the northeast face of Storm Mountain (3,191m) after first ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Mt. Slesse, Heart of Darkness
Dylan Johnson and I drove to Mt. Slesse on March 6, 2015, hoping to climb the oft-attempted but unclimbed Heart of Darkness ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Blow Me Down, The Betrayer Of Hope
Starting in September 2014, Sam Bendroth and I began establishing and free climbing a route on the 1,300’ seaside cliff Blow Me ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Mt. Deborah, Northwest Face to Northwest Ridge, Bad To The Bone
On April 18, Jon Griffith and I were dropped by helicopter on the upper Gillam Glacier in the Hayes Range. This ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Mt. Dickey, Northeast Face, Blue Collar Beatdown
From March 20–22, Chad Diesinger, Jason Stuckey, and I made the first ascent of Blue Collar Beatdown (V WI4 M4 65°) on ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Mt. Reaper, North Face, Sugar Man
The summits of the Neacola Mountains are not as high as in the nearby Revelation Mountains or Central Alaska Range, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Peak 11,191’, Peak 8,615’
In June, Scott Peters and Kristin Arnold of St. Elias Alpine Guides, Ben Iwrey, and I made possible first ascents ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Peak 7,400’, Southwest Face, Pastime Paradise; Peak 5,850’, Southwest Face, Triple Wannabe Cooloirs
In May, Carter Stritch and I climbed a pair of possible new routes in the Ruth Gorge, in addition to ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Lupupa Rock and Pedras Negras, New Routes
From August 31 to September 12, Stacy Bare, Maury Birdwell, Ted Hesser, and I went to Angola to sample the climbing and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Mt. Hooker, Northeast Face, Gambling in the Winds
I cracked open a PBR tallboy. Before me was a massive pile of food, climbing gear, camping equipment, four bottles ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Storm Mountain, Northeast Face, Canoeing To Cuba
“Travel a thousand miles by train and you are a brute; pedal five hundred on a bicycle and you remain ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Shah Dej Group, New Routes
North of Tehran, a spectacular road leads to the Caspian Sea, passing numerous walls and high mountains, including Alam Kooh (4,851...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Pik 5,023m, Northwest Ridge
Will Kernick, who had previously been to the region in 2014 to attempt Pik Pobeda, and Tim Miller arrived on the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Ak Baital Ascents
In 1940, the Soviet military officer VS Yatsenko visited the Ak Baital (Ak Baikal) Valley, gazed up at the five peaks ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Mur Samir, Northwest Face
Mur Samir from the northwest. (1) The couloir used to access the northeast ridge in 2015. On the original ascent of the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Kasiri-Calzada Massif, Various Ascents
After acclimatizing in the Condoriri region, Hugh Alexander, Nick Berry, John da Silva, Rafal Malczyk, Ken Mulvany, Lili Mulvany, Peter ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Jati Khollu, South Face, Gully Route Variant
After a  visit to the Kasiri region , Nick Berry, John da Silva, and I traveled via Palcoma to Laguna ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Fall on Rock – Inadequate Belay, Poor Position, No Helmet
On February 14 a climber (19) fell off the sport climb Birdland (5.10+), hitting a wide ledge about 20 feet off the ground . I (...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2016
Fall On Rock ­­– Off-Route
On May 16, after several days of rain in Yosemite Valley, my partner and I went to do a warm-up climb ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2016
New Routes on Mt. Woolsey, Hallelujah, and Buffalo Back
Can one guarantee a perfect adventure? It seems an oxymoron, at least by Tilman’s edict that if the outcome ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Adventures of the 'Mild Bunch': Coastal Rock Climbs From a Yacht
The Tilman 2015 Sail and Climb Expedition had two main aims. The first was to climb new routes from my boat ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Kooshdakhaa Spire, North Face, Otter Water Boogie Man; Point 2,320m, Southwest Face, Lichening Bolt Buttress
During a spell of excellent weather from May 18 to May 31, Max Fisher and I returned to the Upper Chilkat area ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Andy Tyson, 1968–2015
In 2006, on a climbing expedition to China, Andy Tyson and his team found themselves on the wrong side of a ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2016
Pico Independencia, North Face, The Life You Can Save
On April 2, Carlos Flores and I made the first ascent of the Life You Can Save (350m, 13 pitches, 5.12d) on ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
North Triple Peak, Northwest Face, No Country For Old Men
Alaska is a land of superlatives. It’s big, wild, and hairy—and, as the joke goes, so are ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Fall On Rock and Snow ­– Inexperience, Off Route
On March 21 the Mineral County Sheriff (Nevada) received a 911 call from Brandon Reiff (33) of Reno, who reported that he had ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2016
Cherubim Dome, South Face, New Routes
Cherubim Dome (10,440’) is a beautiful rock face towering above the Valhalla and Hamilton lakes, just east of Angel Wings. While ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Panther Peak, South Face, New Routes
Panther Peak (9,006’) is a small peak in Sequoia National Park, located along the ridge connecting Moro Rock and Alta Peak. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Kettle Dome, Southwest Face
After spending five days in the backcountry, my brother Jon Schutz, my girlfriend Julie Tran, and I succeeded in putting ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Pikes Peak, Corinthian Column, New Routes
During the past few winters of climbing in the Bottomless Pit area on Pikes Peak’s north side, I spotted ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Incredulous Bulk, West Face, Causative Striations
The Sierra was unseasonably warm in early October. With a few days at our disposal, Pete Fasoldt and I hiked ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
The Eiger, North Face, Odyssee
All photos by Frank Kretschmann / Funst.de I started dreaming of climbing a new route through the steepest part of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Finger Crack Cirque and Weasel Tower
From July 23 to August 30, Australians Chris Fitzgerald, Natasha Sebire, and I completed several routes on the previously unclimbed rock wall ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
The General, East Face, Ilium
Somewhere above us the walls were making their presence felt, unfriendly and brooding in the impenetrable mist. Tantalizing photos of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Eight New Routes in Siberia
After the discovery by two Australians in 2014 of an exciting area of big granite walls north of the Arctic Circle ( ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Pik Palgov, West Face and North Ridge
In July and August, Vaughan Snowdon and I climbed above the Palgov Valley, where we were fortunate to make the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016