American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

464 Records

Title Publication Year
Vågakallen, Northeast Face, Night Crosses the Crown
Over two months of a Lofoten winter, a couple of friends and I managed to add a few new routes ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Pico 5,540m and Illimani Grand Traverse
In June, as usual, I traveled to Bolivia to team up with New Zealand expat Gregg Beisly, who has been ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Pico Triangular, South Face, Thanks for Coming
On September 29, Gregg Beisly and I succeeded on one of the remaining unclimbed gullies on the south face of Pico ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Grundtvigskirchen, East Face Attempt, and Ascents from Skillebugt Fjord
Imagine sailing to Yosemite, amid an array of glaciers, with the ocean lapping the base of rocky slopes. Enzo Oddo ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Cabeza del Cóndor, East Face, Danza de Cóndores
On July 15, Juvenal and Sergio Condori left Condoriri base camp at 3 a.m., and after ascending the glacier toward Pequeñ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Ala Izquierda, South Face, Variation
At 2:30 a.m., November 25, Pacifico Machaca and I left my car at La Rinconada (4,400m) and hiked past Chiar Khota ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Nanga Parbat Range, Toshe Ri, South Side, Attempt and Tragedy
In August an expedition from Pakistan attempted to climb Toshe Ri (6,424m, a.k.a. Toshain I, Sarwali, or Dabbar) ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Pyagski, Northwest Face
On July 4, 2014, almost two months before a Singapore University team made the first ascent of Mt. SUTD (6,056m,  AAJ 2015 ), ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Leon Russell “Pete” Sinclair, 1935–2015
Leon Russell “Pete” Sinclair was born on August 25, 1935, in Boston and passed away due to complications of Alzheimer’s disease ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2016
Kaçkar Dag, West Face; New Alpine Rock Routes in Ala Daglar and Antalya
The prolific alpinist Tunç Fındık has climbed many new routes in Turkey’s mountains in recent years . In 2015 ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Serkhe Khollu, Southwest Face, Water World
On October 6, José Callisaya (Bolivian), Robert Rauch (German, resident in La Paz), and I climbed a new route on the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Pico Milluni, Cloudy Condors
On May 29, Pacifico Machaca (Bolivia) and I climbed what we think is a new line on the southwest face of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Jati Khollu Massif, Fu-Man-Chu
Fu-Man-Chu on the tallest granite tower of the north ridge of Jati Khollu. On August 30, Juan Gabriel Estellano (Bolivian), Lilé...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Khala Cruz Group, Condores y Picaflores
On May 17, Pacifico Machaca and I climbed a 200m, six-pitch route on the south face of the most prominent granite ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Fall on Rock
On October 25 a climber (female, 28) took a short leader fall near the top of Mint Jam (5.8) at the Overlook . All ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2016
Jebel Taoujdad, Southeast Pillar, Into The Blue
On October 14, Steffen Krug and I returned to the beautiful limestone area of Taghia Gorge . The year before, we ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
West Maiden, Southwest Face And Other Climbs
On July 6—coincidentally our second wedding anniversary—we departed Seattle to fulfill a long-sought dream of climbing in ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Uyuraq, North Ridge, and Exploration
This expedition had its beginnings in 2013, when I completed a 21-day snowboarding and climbing trip in the Tordrillo Mountains. During ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Obelisk, Southwest Face, Emotional Atrophy
There would be no sleeping. The wind moaned a slow, agonizing cry among the summits and the lenticular clouds. My ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Mint Peak Traverse
After a multi-year absence from Alaska, I spent some time considering what makes me enjoy the climbing and environment of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Mt. Waddington, Northwest Summit, Southwest Buttress
On August 17, I joined Ines Papert (Germany) and Mayan Smith-Gobat (New Zealand) for a lightning-fast, four-day trip to Mt. Waddington (4,018...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Acopán Tepui, Time Is The Master
In January 2015, Billy Brown, José Ramón Torre Zea, Alfredo Zubillaga, and I climbed a new route on the right ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Piedra Bolada, Southwest Face, Rité I´namé
From November 17–25, Israel Pérez (Mexico), Georg Pollinger (Germany), and I  climbed a new route on the right side ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Jirishanca Chico, Northeast Face, Via Dei Ragni
On August 9, Silvano Arrigoni and I climbed a new route on the icy northeast face of Jirishanca Chico, reaching a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Cerro Morado, Northeast Ridge, Filo Contigo
At the end of April, Pablo Miranda and I left Santiago with the idea of finishing a project on Cerro ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Five New Routes in the Central Andes
In November and December, Oriol Baró (Spain) and partners climbed five new routes on five different peaks in the Central ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Aguja Dumbo, South Face, Andre And Sophie
I arrived in El Chaltén on October 26 and two days letter met Gabriel Fava (Argentina). We hoped the weather ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Darran Mountains, New Routes
Most new-route activity in New Zealand in 2015 was focused in and around the Darran Mountains, both in summer and winter. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Snow Tower, East Face To East Ridge
Snow Tower tops out at an elevation of 6,572’ and has unusual prominence for its height: The peak ranks 62nd ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Mamison, North Face, Triangle Direct
In February, Dmitry Romanenko and Vladimir Roshko (Ukraine) made the first ascent of the center of the Triangle on the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Barguzin Range, Moryan
In April, Dashi Ayusheev, Alexander Baguza, Anton Fedotov, and Purbo Norboev made the first ascent of Moryan. Their route, up ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Sayan Mountains, Sever, North Face
In late August, Eugeny and Sergey Glazunov climbed a new route up the center of the north face of Sever (2,826...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Sayan Mountains, Zvezdniy, Northeast Face, Kosinusoyda
I had long dreamed of climbing a direct route up the big northeast face of Zvezdniy (2,265m), in the Ergaki ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Trolls Traverse
At the end of June, Pachi Ibarra, Drew Seitz, and I flew into Little Switzerland. We spent six days climbing, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Denali, Southwest Face, Denali Diamond, First All-Female Ascent
From June 15–19, Chantel Astorga and Jewell Lund completed the Denali Diamond (7,800’, WI5+ 5.9 A3 or M6 A1/ M7) on the southwest ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Borderski
Kate Harris, Rebecca Haspel, and I created Borderski, a ski mountaineering expedition that took place during February and March, to ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Louknitsky and Bagritsky Ascents
In August, Vilnis Barons, Eduard Skukis, and I climbed in the Shakhdara Range of the southwest Pamir, south of Seydzh ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Condoriri Massif, Complete Traverse
In July, Juvenal and Sergio Condori made a 44-hour, alpine-style traverse of the Condoriri Massif. Starting with the summit of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Ice Climbing in Eastern Turkey
In Turkey, the history of ice climbing is not old. Except for long alpine ice gullies in the high mountains, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Hua Shan South Peak, South Face, High Tide or Low Tide
Hua Shan is a collection of steep granite summits in southern Shanxi Province. It is one of the holy Taoist ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Filchner Mountains: Various Ascents
Following my expedition to the Orvin Fjella in November 2009 ( AAJ 2010 ), and another to the east of the Drygalski Mountains in ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Hall Peak, South Face and Southeast Ridge
The 2015-’16 season was stormier than normal , which led to challenging conditions for getting to and climbing on Mt. Vinson (4,892...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Antarctic Peninsula: Various Ski Ascents
In November and December a group of seven ski mountaineers , Grae Allan, Roger Everett, Dee Gaffney, Jim Lindop, Béatrice ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Sikorsky Glacier, Peak 1,475m
From December 2011 to February 2012 , I led an Eagle Ski Club party to the Peninsula, where we made ascents from the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Livingston Island, Falsa Aguja and Sofia Peak
The goal of the 23rd Bulgarian Antarctic Expedition was to take differential GPS measurements of certain prominent landmarks in the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Nuuk Region, Unreported Ascents from 2009
In 2008, Audun Igesund from Norway went to the Nuuk area to meet local climber Aili Lage Labansen. The two put ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Archakanysh Gorge, Ryzhii and Sauk Dzhaylyau West I
During July, Eugene and Sergey Glazunov and Alexey Tyulyupo explored peaks in the long-forgotten Surmetash Valley. The expedition was only ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Jebel Misht, Southeast Face, Boys Don't Cry
At the start of January 2016 , my friends Jiri Lautner, Filip Martinek, David Michovsky, and I, all Czech, climbed a new ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Chomotang, Northwest Face
Chomotang (left) and Nigutse South seen from Sirsir La to the northeast. I first noticed Chomotang on Google Earth during ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Traverse of Kurumdy and Unclimbed Satellite Peaks
The central Zaalayskiy Range from the north. (1) Start of 2015 traverse. (2) Spur climbed during 2001 first ascent of Kurumdy I. (3) Descent from 2015 ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016