American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

464 Records

Title Publication Year
Seraph, east face, Mandarin Mounty
Chris Thomas and I completed the first ascent of Seraph (8,540’) on April 14. The peak is northeast of and adjacent to ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Cleaver, South Face, Chronic Harmonic
Nate Ricklin: Since first seeing the Cleaver (ca 13,000’) from the northeast ridge of Lone Pine Peak, I was drawn to ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Mt. Broderick, Southwest Face, Unemployment Line (first free ascent)
Life is all about balance—at least that’s what you call it when you sacrifice work, relationships, and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Mooses Tooth, East Face, Illusions of the Raven
From May 2–7, Alik Berg (Canada) and I established a new route on the east face of the Mooses Tooth (10,335’).  ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Jidege Shan Exploration
I had always felt a fascination for northwest Yunnan, the region at the eastern end of the Himalaya where three ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Langtang Stupa
West of the Naya Kanga group and the mountain recently renamed Baden-Powell Scout Peak lies the Chimisedang Lekh, a cluster ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Mt. Evans Massif, Black Wall, Sinners On Sunday
In July 2014, Dan Godshall, Greg German, Jackie Kuusinen, and I finished a new route on the right side of the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Jangyaraju I, North Face, Libre
In late May, Basque climbers Kepa Berasategi and Odei Girado climbed a new route on Jangyaraju I (5,675m). On May 23 ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Tucupit Point, New Free Climbs
In November 2014, Cullen Kirk, Karl Kvashay, and I climbed the first of many new routes on Tucupit Point in Zion's ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Fall on Rock – Inadequate Belay, No Helmet
On June 7, a 38-year-old climber was leading a well-bolted 5.10a route on Foreplay Wall . It was midafternoon on a hot ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2016
Ivins Mountain, West Face
Over four days at the beginning of April, Matthew Mower and I completed the first ascent of Ivins Mountain (7,049’) by ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Mont Gros Bras, North Face, Le Dernier Ronin
The day was perfect—except for the date, Friday, March 13. Mathieu “Mat” Leblanc, François “Frank” Bédard, and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
North Liverpool Land, Many First Ascents
In April and May, following two previous visits to this area (AAJ  2009  and  2015 ), I returned with regular ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Peak 5,600m
Kathy Connelly and I are primarily trekkers and not necessarily looking for elevation. In the summer of 2014 we wanted to ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Devils Paw, Northwest Ridge of North Summit, Black Roses
During May 18 and 19, Simon Gietl and I completed a new route on the north summit of Devils Paw (2,616m). Our ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Great Potato, East Ridge
Years ago I stumbled upon some entertaining written history about a large, unclimbed freestanding tower called the Great Potato (8,510’) in ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Jezebel (East Summit), East Face, Hoar Of Babylon
Ben Silvestre and I spent March 25–April 13 in the Revelation Mountains. Our initial objective was the central couloir on Pyramid ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Peak 4, Southeast Ridge, Attempt
On April 6, after a six-day trek from the rough road at Num, we arrived at Makalu base camp (ca 4,800m). ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Peak 41, North Face, Attempt
In October 2014, Choi Ji-won, Kim Jeong-yeop, Ku Eun-su, and Wang Jun-ho attempted Peak 41 ( 6,648m) , starting up the left-hand couloir ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Peak 11,300’, West Face, Right Couloir; Reality Peak, West Face, Devil’s Advocate
Willis Brown, Sam Hennessey, and I climbed two sustained ice and mixed routes in the West Fork of the Ruth ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Ames Wall, Belly of the Beast
In December 2014, Gary Newmeyer and I made two attempts on the major chimney system right of the Ames Ice Hose ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Windy Peak, North Face, Dream Within a Dream
In April, Larry DeAngelo, Chad Mueler, Bill Thiry, and I climbed a new route on the north face of Windy ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Fall on Snow — Climbing Unroped
On Sunday, January 18, 24-year-old Dasan Marshall fell to his death on the north face of 7,535-foot Mt. Yukla in Chugach ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2016
Rockfall
On June 25, a Boy Scout group was climbing and rappelling at Sycamore Falls (a.k.a. Paradise Forks). At approximately 11:30 ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2016
Fall on Rock — Poor Position, No Helmet
On June 7 a woman (29) suffered a serious head injury while leading a 5.9 sport route. After clipping the first quickdraw (previously ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2016
Dragontail Peak, North Face, Left Hand Freeze
Over the weekend of April 25–26, Craig Pope and I teamed up to attempt a new route on Dragontail Peak in ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Lucifer, North Face, Agua Sin Gas
In the AAJ 1947 , Fred Beckey wrote, “Although they do not rise so high as the great mountains farther to the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Himmelhorn, South Face, Stonehenge
“We were born too late. Roper’s already been here. We’re just picking up his scraps,” Tim Halder mused ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Fall On Rock, Bolt Failure – Rope Soloing
Scott Sederstrom (44) fell to his death on March 13 when a bolt failed on Life in Electric Larvae Land (5.10b) at ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2016
Robert Craig, 1924 – 2015
In 1953, when Bob Craig joined the famed Anglo-American expedition to K2, most mountaineers in the United States were amateurs. Climbing ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2016
Peak 6,010m, southwest face and south ridge; Sgurr Kuddu, northwest flank; Peak 5,970m, east ridge attempt
Robert Adams, Tom Adams, Steve Kennedy, and leader Andy Nisbet (all U.K.), and Bill McConachie and I (both U....
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Mt. Malaspina, North Face to East Ridge
On August 4, Natalia Martinez and I, as part of our Uncharted Project (which has focused mostly on the Cordillera Darwin ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Jebel Misht, Physical Graffiti
In November 2013, I went to Oman with Andrea Migliano, planning a three-week climbing trip. We rented a car and drove ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Mt. Silliman, North Chimney
Mt. Silliman (11,188’) is a popular summit for peak baggers in Sequoia National Park. This is for good reason: It has ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Argonaut Peak, North Face, Chad Kellogg Memorial Route
Vern Nelson Jr. and I climbed a new route on Argonaut Peak (8,451’), just east of Mt. Stuart, on April 26. Our ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Mt. Silverthrone to Mt. Brooks Traverse
From July 6­ to July 12, Gabe Messercola and I completed the first known traverse from Mt. Silverthrone to Mt. Brooks, including ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Fall on Rock – Inadequate Protection
For the first route of our first day of climbing in Squamish , my climbing partner and I started up Calculus ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2016
Wonderland
Tom Mullier on the mid-height break at Boulder Ruckle. The 67-pitch route Wonderland extends as far as the eye ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Peak 6,925’–Peak 6,991’ Traverse; Peak 6,760’, Northeast Arête
In April, Owen Lunz and I made a five-day journey through the Great West Canyon region of Zion National Park&...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Morurco, Southwest Face, Nitroglycerin
On May 1, Gonzalo Espinosa and I drove to the upper highlands below Cotopaxi’s south face. This is a flat ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Rope Sheath Destroyed
On September 12, I had a near miss when I was climbing a sport route called Twist and Shout (5.13c) at ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2016
Rock Slide
On August 15, 2014, Will Richardson-Little and I started hiking toward the Grand Sentinel at 7:20 a.m. from the Moraine Lake parking ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2016
Angavoa Wall, Mahagaga
In mid-September—after I climbed in Tsaranoro Valley in July and August—a local Tsaranoro climber from Madagascar ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Tsaranoro Atsimo, Fire In The Belly
After having climbed some of the classics in the Tsaranoro Valley with Argyro Papathanasiou (Greece) in July, I was joined ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Tsaranoro Be, East Face, Cuento de Habas
After five days of travel from Ecuador, Felipe Guarderas, Nicolas Navaraette, and I reached Antananarivo, Madagascar. We were exhausted and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Karambony Tower, Northeast Arête, The Change Experience
In April, Hassan Gerami, Farshad Mijoji, and I opened a new route up the stunning right (northeast) arête of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
Crevasse Fall – Climbing Unroped
Sarah Hart walks across the Trident Glacier shortly before the author's crevasse fall. Base camp is visible on the right. ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2016
Alexander Ruchkin, 1963 – 2015
Alexander "Sasha" Ruchkin, along with his climbing partner, Vyacheslav Ivanov, died while attempting a new route on the south face ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2016
Piedra Bolada, West Face, Arista Mexicana
After a 20-hour trip in a pickup truck with nine people and three dogs, we made it into Basaseachic very ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016
La Esfinge, Southeast Face, Chappie
Roger Schäli and Simon Gietl climbed a new route on La Esfinge (5,325m) in the Paron Valley in early ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2016