American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

426 Records

Title Publication Year
Angel Wings, Valkyrie
On September 3, 2012, Dave Nettle, Peter Croft, Greg Epperson, and I completed the first free route on the main wall of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Complete Palisade Traverse, first winter ascent
Jediah Porter and I were only acquaintances when, by complete accident, we crossed paths on the Evolution Traverse in August 2011. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Tehipite Dome, southeast face, Astro-Gil
In September, Shaun Reed, Brad Wilson, and I spent two weeks establishing a new route on Tehipite Dome in Kings ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Mt. Langley, New Army Buttress, Better Red Than Dead
Each time I awoke during the night, I’d turn my head toward the towering black void outlined by the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Mt. Chamberlin, new routes
An excellent trip to Mt. Chamberlin in 2010 left Chris Brown, Jimmy Haden, Mike Pennings, and I pining for more. So ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Luoma Peak, Ducky’s Wild Ride; Cyclorama Wall, Netherworld; new route potential
The year I was born (1979), Galen Rowell established the first and only line on the mythical Cyclorama Wall (Peak 12,860’). His ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Peak 3,986, The Forgotten Ridge
Amy Ness and I made the first ascent of the Forgotten Ridge (V 5.10 R), which follows a massive spiraling ridgeline ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Lone Pine Peak, new routes
On Lone Pine Peak, Amy Ness and I completed three new routes, a previously unrecorded route, and also a first ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Mt. Russell, southeast face, new route
The southeast face of Mt. Russell is a looming triangular wall above Upper Boyscout Lake in the Mt. Whitney region. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Day Needle, BCB On The Prow; Keeler Needle, Blood of the Monkey
In summer 2011 and 2012, Amy Ness and I established two new routes on the needles of the Mt. Whitney massif. The ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Whitney Portal Buttress, The Never Ending Story; El Segundo area, new routes
In 2011 and 2012, I completed five new routes on the Whitney Portal Buttress and surrounding walls with various partners. The longest ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
The Fortress, The Siege
In fall 2012, Daniel Jeffcoach, Vitaliy Musiyenko, and Tom Ruddy established a new route, The Siege (1,000’, IV 5.10c A0), on a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Merriam Peak, west face, Dr. Bear Love
In July 2012, Casey Zak and Luke Stefurak established a four-pitch route, Dr. Bear Love (800’, III 5.11a C1) on Merriam Peak, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Lone Pine Peak, south face, Mountain Devil Dike
In August, Brad Wilson and Dulcinea Groff established a six-pitch route on the south face of Lone Pine Peak: Mountain ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Mythics Cirque, Ataatap Tower and other ascents
Keith Ladzinski, Mike Libecki, Angie Payne, and Ethan Pringle visited the Mythics Cirque at roughly the same time as the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Mythics Cirque, various ascents
In August AAC members Steve Beckwith (U.K.), Matthew Bunn (Australia), Matthew Traver (U.K.), and I traveled to East ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Liberty Cap, southwest face, Bad Moon Rising
In early October, Steve Bosque, Ezra Allee, and I established an eight-pitch variation to Harding’s southwest face route on ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Summary: new routes, major linkups, and speed ascents
In addition to the routes described in more detail in this section, as well as Mikey Schaefer’s Father Time ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Fairview Dome, The Arsonist
Erik Anderson and Bob Jensen added a route on the north side of Fairview Dome, left of Burning Down the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
The Elkhorns, Eastern Rib of Van Patten Butte; The Wallowas, Traverse Lake cliff, attempt; new route potential
A review of the past 30 years of AAJ s reveals only a smattering of new alpine rou­tes in Oregon, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Big Kangaroo, south face, Walkabout
In winter of 2004, the Big Kangaroo wall was burned into my memory. The golden, sheer, 850’ face is not like any ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Big Kangaroo, south face, Skinny Start; Going Down Under
On July 27, Mike Pond and Matt VanBein climbed a three-pitch variation 30m right of the Kearney-Thomas route, which they called ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Aasgard Sentinel, The Valkyrie
The granite walls and peaks of the Stuart Range have seen prodigious new route activity in the last few years, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Colchuck Balanced Rock, west face, first winter ascent
In late January 2012, Nathan Farr and I likely made the first winter ascent of the west face (300m, 5.11+) of Colchuck ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Colchuck Balanced Rock, Accendo Lunae, new variation
Scott Bennett, Graham Zimmerman, and I climbed a new variation on Colchuck Balanced Rock (8,200’), which connects the start and crux ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Half Moon, northwest face, Butter Face
In July I returned to the Half Moon massif (located near the Liberty Bell group and Washington Pass) with Tino ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Mt. Kinabalu, Extremely Difficult Sport Climbs at Altitude
In the winter of 2011, Yuji Hirayama sat down with James Pearson and me at our annual meeting at the North ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Central and Southwest Tibet, Various Ascents
In the course of geological field research on the India- Asia collision zone, members of our University of Arizona Geosciences ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
First Ascents of Mirror Wall, Cockpit, and El Güpfi
From mid-July to mid-August, Basil Jacksch, Christian Ledergerber, Vera Reist, and I from Switzerland visited southeast Renland, establishing four long, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Renland, Various Ascents
Inspired by our three-week honeymoon in Liverpool Land one year previous (see report here ), my wife, Betsy Winston, and I ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Recent access developments; Milne Land, exploration and several non- technical ascents
Ever conscious of escalating air charter costs in accessing the mountains of East Greenland, the experienced operator Tangent Expeditions has ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Milne Land, Probable First and Second Ascents
During 14 days in August, Line Veenstra and I climbed a number of peaks in northeast Milne Land. We accessed the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Five First Ascents
After climbing the standard route from the east on Greenland's highest mountain, Gunnbjornsfjeld (3,693m), Carlos Calderas, Carlos Castillo, Marco Cayuso, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Paredão Enamorados, New Routes
Karina Filgueiras and Bito Meyer opened three new routes on the Paredão Enamorados wall, near Agulhas Negras in the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Ritacuba Blanco, east face, Ocho Amaneceres
In January 2013, Marco Jubes, Dani Moreno, and I managed to put up a new line on Ritacuba Blanco (5,350...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Nevado Carhuachuco, New Route
Nevado Carhuachuco, new route. On November 10, during a guide course by the Mountain Guides Association of Peru (AGMP), aspirant guide ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Cerro Caja Real, South Ridge
Robert Middleton and Hannah Moulton climbed what are believed to be two new, or newly reported routes on Cerro Caja ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Puscanturpa Este, Poco Loco
Inspired by Pavle Kozjek’s climb Stonehenge on the northeast buttress in 2007 [ AAJ 2008 ], we were eager to climb a new ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Nocarane Volcano, Southwest Face, New Routes
Nocarane Volcano (5,787m) is located on Reserva Nacional Salinas y Aguada Blanca, close to Arequipa. Beginning in May 2012, Xavier Ossola ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Urus Este, south ridge; Huamashraju, west face; Pisco, Miss You Baby; various ascents
In June 2012, Michael Wejchert and Erik Eisle (U.S.) made an ascent of the rocky south ridge of Urus Este (5,420...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Coropuna Central II (6,161m), first ascent; Corupuna, history
In June, a group of Spanish mountaineers, Jorge Perez, Eduardo Ruiz, and Jose Martinez, climbed a new route up one ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Huandoy Este, Northwest Face
While climbing La Esfinge in the Paron Valley in 2011, the Ecuadorian climber Joshua Jarràn (IFMGA) took interest in the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Jirishanca, east face to east buttress, attempt
On May 27, 2012, German climbers Michi Wohlleben, Johannes Arne, Bergau Jahn, and photographer Hans Hornberger traveled to Lima to attempt Jirishanca (6,094...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Nevado Chicón, northeast summit (5,495m); unnamed summit (5,024m); new route potential
On March 24, Peruvian climber Jorge “Coqui” Gálvez, who had made two previous attempts on the southeast face of Nevado ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Palcaraju Oeste, south face, new route and tragedy
In June 2012, Asa Firestone and Gil Weiss traveled to the Cordillera Blanca. During a day trip to scope out conditions ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Geyikbayiri, Geyik Sivrisi, Crazy Eye
The Geyikbayiri area is popular for sport climbing, but when Michael Pearson and I traveled there in July we had ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Pisco, south face, new route
Florian Burg­er (Austria) and I left Huaraz on August 18 with a plan to climb the west face of Yerupaja ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Bisotoon, overview, and 2012 International Meet
The second International Rock Climbing Festival, organized by the Iranian Mountain Federation and Iranian Alpine Club, took place in mid- ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Pumahuacanca, northeast face
. I left Huaraz on October 14 with aspirant guide Yonny Rosales to teach a guiding course. Our itinerary included Shacsha, Huruashraju, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Bisotoon, various routes
In January 2013, Miquel Sanchez, Alfons Valls, and I climbed a possible new route on Bisotoon. Along with Joan Sole? and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013