American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

426 Records

Title Publication Year
Fitz Roy, east face, The Real Kekec
After climbing the North Tower of Paine [ see Chile section of Climbs and Expeditions ], I was joined by Tadej Kriselj ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Cerro Torre, southeast ridge, fair-means ascent
After three days of rest following a new route on Fitz Roy, Tadej Kriselj and I made a fair-means ascent ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Bjerring Pedersens Glacier, various ascents
On June 25, 2011, my wife, Betsy Winston, and I arrived in Constable Pynt to celebrate our honeymoon by climbing and exploring ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
El Mocho, new route, Dulce de Leche
At the end of our visit to Patagonia, Tadej Kriselj and I used a short window of good weather to ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Castleton Tower, southeast face, Ivory Tower.
On October 22, 2012, Chris Kalous freed a wild new route, Ivory Tower (110m, 5.13b) on southeastern Utah’s iconic Castleton Tower. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Mystery Towers, Citadel, The Mugacki Variation
In October 2012, Fisher Towers veterans Joe Forrester and Jeremy Aslaksen climbed a new variation to the Forrest-Briggs route on the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Lone Peak Cirque, Summit Wall, The Wonderette
Over a handful of weekends from June to August 2012, I tricked three unsuspecting victims into making the 5,000’ vertical trek up ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Fisher Towers, The Oracle, Beak to the Future
In the fall of 2009, Jeremy Aslaksen and I climbed a new route on the south face of Kingfisher in the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
South Rim, Big Island area, Black Cloud
In the summer of 2012, Chris Righter and I were lured into establishing a new route on Wild Bill’s Wall, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
South Rim, The Quota
Jeff Popko and Chris Righter put up a six-pitch route, the Quota (750’, 5.12a), below the Cedar Point lookout. The crux ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
North Rim, new routes
In April 2012, Jonathan Schaffer and partners established two new routes along the North Rim. The first, Cloak Dagger (III 5.10c, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Camp Bird Road, various ascents
The Camp Bird Road area above Ouray, famous for climbs such as the Ribbon, Bird Brain Boulevard, Talisman, and countless ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Mt. Evans, The Tan Buttresses, various ascents; The Black Wall, The Rainbow Highway, various ascents; Mt. Warren, various ascents
In 2008, Josh Thompson and Glen Griscom put up the first route on the slightly chossy-looking buttresses just north of the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Mt. Evans, Black Wall, Undertow, first free ascent.
In the spring of 2010, Will Butler took me to the Black Wall on Mt. Evans to show me the old ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Longs Peak, The Diamond, Waterhole #3, first free ascent
Waterhole #3 was the first route to be put up solo on the Diamond (Walker, 1971). I first attempted to free the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Hairpin Brow Buttress, Classy Girls
Ben Hoiness and Brooks Munyer found a fine four-pitch line on a possibly unclimbed granite buttress above Hairpin Lake in ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Sundance Pinnacle, north face
Matt Hartman and Jake Tipton climbed a possible new route on the north side of this prominent buttress along the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Grand Teton, southwest face, Bean’s Wall of Shining Storms
In good weather, the southwest face of the Grand Teton shines in the last rays of evening light. In bad ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Cirque of the Towers, Warbonnet Peak, new routes
In summer of 2012, Nathan Brown and partners Jonathan Foster and Tony Spainhour established two new routes on left side of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Laurel Knob, new routes
Laurel Knob, a 1,200’ dome in the Cashiers Valley, saw a boom in 2012 with four new routes, all 700–1,000’ in length and 5.11 ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Angel Wings, Valkyrie
On September 3, 2012, Dave Nettle, Peter Croft, Greg Epperson, and I completed the first free route on the main wall of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Complete Palisade Traverse, first winter ascent
Jediah Porter and I were only acquaintances when, by complete accident, we crossed paths on the Evolution Traverse in August 2011. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Tehipite Dome, southeast face, Astro-Gil
In September, Shaun Reed, Brad Wilson, and I spent two weeks establishing a new route on Tehipite Dome in Kings ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Mt. Langley, New Army Buttress, Better Red Than Dead
Each time I awoke during the night, I’d turn my head toward the towering black void outlined by the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Mt. Chamberlin, new routes
An excellent trip to Mt. Chamberlin in 2010 left Chris Brown, Jimmy Haden, Mike Pennings, and I pining for more. So ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Luoma Peak, Ducky’s Wild Ride; Cyclorama Wall, Netherworld; new route potential
The year I was born (1979), Galen Rowell established the first and only line on the mythical Cyclorama Wall (Peak 12,860’). His ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Peak 3,986, The Forgotten Ridge
Amy Ness and I made the first ascent of the Forgotten Ridge (V 5.10 R), which follows a massive spiraling ridgeline ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Lone Pine Peak, new routes
On Lone Pine Peak, Amy Ness and I completed three new routes, a previously unrecorded route, and also a first ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Mt. Russell, southeast face, new route
The southeast face of Mt. Russell is a looming triangular wall above Upper Boyscout Lake in the Mt. Whitney region. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Day Needle, BCB On The Prow; Keeler Needle, Blood of the Monkey
In summer 2011 and 2012, Amy Ness and I established two new routes on the needles of the Mt. Whitney massif. The ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Whitney Portal Buttress, The Never Ending Story; El Segundo area, new routes
In 2011 and 2012, I completed five new routes on the Whitney Portal Buttress and surrounding walls with various partners. The longest ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
The Fortress, The Siege
In fall 2012, Daniel Jeffcoach, Vitaliy Musiyenko, and Tom Ruddy established a new route, The Siege (1,000’, IV 5.10c A0), on a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Merriam Peak, west face, Dr. Bear Love
In July 2012, Casey Zak and Luke Stefurak established a four-pitch route, Dr. Bear Love (800’, III 5.11a C1) on Merriam Peak, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Lone Pine Peak, south face, Mountain Devil Dike
In August, Brad Wilson and Dulcinea Groff established a six-pitch route on the south face of Lone Pine Peak: Mountain ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Mythics Cirque, Ataatap Tower and other ascents
Keith Ladzinski, Mike Libecki, Angie Payne, and Ethan Pringle visited the Mythics Cirque at roughly the same time as the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Mythics Cirque, various ascents
In August AAC members Steve Beckwith (U.K.), Matthew Bunn (Australia), Matthew Traver (U.K.), and I traveled to East ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Liberty Cap, southwest face, Bad Moon Rising
In early October, Steve Bosque, Ezra Allee, and I established an eight-pitch variation to Harding’s southwest face route on ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Summary: new routes, major linkups, and speed ascents
In addition to the routes described in more detail in this section, as well as Mikey Schaefer’s Father Time ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Fairview Dome, The Arsonist
Erik Anderson and Bob Jensen added a route on the north side of Fairview Dome, left of Burning Down the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
The Elkhorns, Eastern Rib of Van Patten Butte; The Wallowas, Traverse Lake cliff, attempt; new route potential
A review of the past 30 years of AAJ s reveals only a smattering of new alpine rou­tes in Oregon, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Big Kangaroo, south face, Walkabout
In winter of 2004, the Big Kangaroo wall was burned into my memory. The golden, sheer, 850’ face is not like any ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Big Kangaroo, south face, Skinny Start; Going Down Under
On July 27, Mike Pond and Matt VanBein climbed a three-pitch variation 30m right of the Kearney-Thomas route, which they called ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Aasgard Sentinel, The Valkyrie
The granite walls and peaks of the Stuart Range have seen prodigious new route activity in the last few years, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Colchuck Balanced Rock, west face, first winter ascent
In late January 2012, Nathan Farr and I likely made the first winter ascent of the west face (300m, 5.11+) of Colchuck ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Colchuck Balanced Rock, Accendo Lunae, new variation
Scott Bennett, Graham Zimmerman, and I climbed a new variation on Colchuck Balanced Rock (8,200’), which connects the start and crux ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Half Moon, northwest face, Butter Face
In July I returned to the Half Moon massif (located near the Liberty Bell group and Washington Pass) with Tino ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Mt. Kinabalu, Extremely Difficult Sport Climbs at Altitude
In the winter of 2011, Yuji Hirayama sat down with James Pearson and me at our annual meeting at the North ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Central and Southwest Tibet, Various Ascents
In the course of geological field research on the India- Asia collision zone, members of our University of Arizona Geosciences ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
First Ascents of Mirror Wall, Cockpit, and El Güpfi
From mid-July to mid-August, Basil Jacksch, Christian Ledergerber, Vera Reist, and I from Switzerland visited southeast Renland, establishing four long, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Renland, Various Ascents
Inspired by our three-week honeymoon in Liverpool Land one year previous (see report here ), my wife, Betsy Winston, and I ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013