American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

426 Records

Title Publication Year
Mt. Asgard, South Tower, Free Bavarian Direct (The Belgarian), First Free Ascent
A couple of moves, no more than one or two meters. That’s not far. Not nearly as far as ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Mt. Loki, south buttress, first free ascent; Mt. Asgard, south tower, north face, Sensory Overload
On the morning of July 17, Joshua Lavigne, Ines Papert, and I got off the plane in Pangnirtung. Three hours later ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Mt. Thor, southwest face
On July 19, Canadian climbers Bill Borger Jr. and John Furneaux climbed a new free variation on the far right side ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Eastern Fjords, Polar Molar, Bonfire of the Vanities
After a rest and recovery in Upernavik (see Greenland section), we made a four-day crossing to Pond Inlet in Baffin ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Sam Ford Fjord, Polar Sun Spire, north face, Superbalance
In May 2012, Marcin Tomaszewski and I completed a new route on the north face of Polar Sun Spire in Sam ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Snowpatch Spire, South Howser Tower, North Howser Tower, and other summits, new routes and first free ascents
Jonathan Schaffer and I had an incredible three-week trip to the Bugaboos this past summer. Experienced but young, our plan ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
De l’S, south face, Besos to Pesos; Aguja Bifida, north face, Gunnison Direct
In late January, David Allfrey and I established a new route up the center of the south face of De ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
North Joffre Creek, new routes; Mt. Athelstan, new route; Mt. Rexford, north couloir
Bruce Kay and partners have continued to develop the North Joffre Creek rock in the Mighty Mouse area, on the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
The Blade, IncogNeato; Stiletto Peak, The Canadian Club
On August 6, 2012, Blake Herrington, Scott Bennett, and I flew into the Sunny Knob base camp on the Tiedemann Glacier of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
South Howser Tower, northwest face, The Wandering Direct
In July, Jean-Pierre Ouellet and Matt McCormick climbed a new route on the northwest face of South Howser Tower. The ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Mt. King George, east face, Elzinga-Welsted
On September 15, 2012, Jim Elzinga and I went to the beautiful Height of the Rockies Provincial Park in British Columbia and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Canadian Rockies, summary
Big alpine ascents in the Canadian Rockies are few and far between. A variety of reasons for this undeniable fact ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Mt. Waddington to Mt. Asperity, high peaks solo traverse; first solo ascents
In mid-August 2012, I had an opportunity for a free helicopter ride into the Waddington Range with landscape photographer Scott Pick ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Mt. Proboscis, At Dawn We Ride; Women at Work, one-day free ascent
After much research and discussion in spring 2012, Ben Ditto, Mason Earle, Bronson Hovnanian, and I combined efforts for an expedition ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Mt. Logan, extended unsupported traverse
Joshua Foreman, Graham Kraft, Luc Mehl, Josh Mumm, and John Sykes made an unsupported traverse of Mt. Logan, traveling 370 miles ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Bloody Butte, The Coke Bottle, Tower of Kor, Bighorn Tower
I was fortunate to spend some time visiting with Layton Kor at his home in Kingman, Arizona, in the last ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Zoroaster Temple, southeast face
In April 2012, Mathieu Brown and Zach Harrison climbed a five-pitch, “stellar and demanding” route up the southeast face of Zoroaster, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Mt. Idaho, east face, new routes
In August 2012, two routes were established on the previously unclimbed east face of Mt. Idaho (12,065’). They both go more or ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Cactus Flower Tower, Blood on the Tracks; Mt. Wilson, Cactus Connection
In early April 2012, Chris Weidner and I linked up up two of the biggest peaks in Red Rock, in a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Cerro Murallón, El Pilar del Sol Naciente and history of climbs and attempts
Cerro Murallón (2,656m) rises above the Southern Patagonia Ice Cap, along the Argentina-Chile frontier. Although it has received several ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Fitz Roy, east face, The Real Kekec
After climbing the North Tower of Paine [ see Chile section of Climbs and Expeditions ], I was joined by Tadej Kriselj ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Cerro Torre, southeast ridge, fair-means ascent
After three days of rest following a new route on Fitz Roy, Tadej Kriselj and I made a fair-means ascent ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Bjerring Pedersens Glacier, various ascents
On June 25, 2011, my wife, Betsy Winston, and I arrived in Constable Pynt to celebrate our honeymoon by climbing and exploring ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
El Mocho, new route, Dulce de Leche
At the end of our visit to Patagonia, Tadej Kriselj and I used a short window of good weather to ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Castleton Tower, southeast face, Ivory Tower.
On October 22, 2012, Chris Kalous freed a wild new route, Ivory Tower (110m, 5.13b) on southeastern Utah’s iconic Castleton Tower. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Mystery Towers, Citadel, The Mugacki Variation
In October 2012, Fisher Towers veterans Joe Forrester and Jeremy Aslaksen climbed a new variation to the Forrest-Briggs route on the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Lone Peak Cirque, Summit Wall, The Wonderette
Over a handful of weekends from June to August 2012, I tricked three unsuspecting victims into making the 5,000’ vertical trek up ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Fisher Towers, The Oracle, Beak to the Future
In the fall of 2009, Jeremy Aslaksen and I climbed a new route on the south face of Kingfisher in the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
South Rim, Big Island area, Black Cloud
In the summer of 2012, Chris Righter and I were lured into establishing a new route on Wild Bill’s Wall, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
South Rim, The Quota
Jeff Popko and Chris Righter put up a six-pitch route, the Quota (750’, 5.12a), below the Cedar Point lookout. The crux ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
North Rim, new routes
In April 2012, Jonathan Schaffer and partners established two new routes along the North Rim. The first, Cloak Dagger (III 5.10c, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Camp Bird Road, various ascents
The Camp Bird Road area above Ouray, famous for climbs such as the Ribbon, Bird Brain Boulevard, Talisman, and countless ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Mt. Evans, The Tan Buttresses, various ascents; The Black Wall, The Rainbow Highway, various ascents; Mt. Warren, various ascents
In 2008, Josh Thompson and Glen Griscom put up the first route on the slightly chossy-looking buttresses just north of the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Mt. Evans, Black Wall, Undertow, first free ascent.
In the spring of 2010, Will Butler took me to the Black Wall on Mt. Evans to show me the old ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Longs Peak, The Diamond, Waterhole #3, first free ascent
Waterhole #3 was the first route to be put up solo on the Diamond (Walker, 1971). I first attempted to free the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Hairpin Brow Buttress, Classy Girls
Ben Hoiness and Brooks Munyer found a fine four-pitch line on a possibly unclimbed granite buttress above Hairpin Lake in ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Sundance Pinnacle, north face
Matt Hartman and Jake Tipton climbed a possible new route on the north side of this prominent buttress along the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Grand Teton, southwest face, Bean’s Wall of Shining Storms
In good weather, the southwest face of the Grand Teton shines in the last rays of evening light. In bad ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Cirque of the Towers, Warbonnet Peak, new routes
In summer of 2012, Nathan Brown and partners Jonathan Foster and Tony Spainhour established two new routes on left side of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Laurel Knob, new routes
Laurel Knob, a 1,200’ dome in the Cashiers Valley, saw a boom in 2012 with four new routes, all 700–1,000’ in length and 5.11 ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Angel Wings, Valkyrie
On September 3, 2012, Dave Nettle, Peter Croft, Greg Epperson, and I completed the first free route on the main wall of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Complete Palisade Traverse, first winter ascent
Jediah Porter and I were only acquaintances when, by complete accident, we crossed paths on the Evolution Traverse in August 2011. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Tehipite Dome, southeast face, Astro-Gil
In September, Shaun Reed, Brad Wilson, and I spent two weeks establishing a new route on Tehipite Dome in Kings ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Mt. Langley, New Army Buttress, Better Red Than Dead
Each time I awoke during the night, I’d turn my head toward the towering black void outlined by the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Mt. Chamberlin, new routes
An excellent trip to Mt. Chamberlin in 2010 left Chris Brown, Jimmy Haden, Mike Pennings, and I pining for more. So ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Luoma Peak, Ducky’s Wild Ride; Cyclorama Wall, Netherworld; new route potential
The year I was born (1979), Galen Rowell established the first and only line on the mythical Cyclorama Wall (Peak 12,860’). His ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Peak 3,986, The Forgotten Ridge
Amy Ness and I made the first ascent of the Forgotten Ridge (V 5.10 R), which follows a massive spiraling ridgeline ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Lone Pine Peak, new routes
On Lone Pine Peak, Amy Ness and I completed three new routes, a previously unrecorded route, and also a first ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Mt. Russell, southeast face, new route
The southeast face of Mt. Russell is a looming triangular wall above Upper Boyscout Lake in the Mt. Whitney region. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Day Needle, BCB On The Prow; Keeler Needle, Blood of the Monkey
In summer 2011 and 2012, Amy Ness and I established two new routes on the needles of the Mt. Whitney massif. The ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013