American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

426 Records

Title Publication Year
Fall on Snow - Ski Mountaineering Decent, Exceeding Abilities
Ilkka Uusitalo (36) and the three other members of expedition “L10 at Denali 2012” left the 14,200-foot camp on the West Buttress ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2013
Falling Rock - Pulled Rock Off, Failed to Inspect Top of Boulder Problem
During the early afternoon on May 3, calls for help were reported near Realization Point on Flagstaff Mountain. Rocky Mountain Rescue ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2013
Fall on Rock, Inexperience, Weather
On April 5, a young woman (early 20s, I think) fell about 20 feet (though no one knows for sure because there ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2013
Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled Out - Inadequate Protection
On May 30, Mike Drake (22) was leading when his top aid piece failed on the upper half of the “Pancake Flake” (...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2013
Fall on Snow, Inadequate Equipment, Exceeding Abilities
Gary Morgan (52) had flown in from Michigan and was attempting a summit climb on June 21 by a South Side variation, ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2013
Fall on Rock, Belay Device Compromised
On March 31 a male climber had led the fourth pitch of Rewritten (5.7) and was belaying his male partner up the ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2013
Failure to Follow Route, Stranded, Weather
On November 28, Jeff Kish (30) soloed the South Side Route but was overcome by a storm during his descent. Unable to ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2013
Weather - Thunderstorm Causing Falling Rocks, Inadequate Clothing and Equipment - Left at Base of Climb
On June 4, Joe Ripperger (50) and Claire Epperson (25) climbed the East Buttress (11 pitches, 5.10c). The forecast for the day called for ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2013
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection
On April 7 around 3 p.m., my partner and I had just finished Physical Graffiti and were at the base of ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2013
Cardiac Condition - Failure to Inform Guide Service
On May 27, Alpine Ascents International (ALP) lead guide Sarah Carpenter of expedition Alp-3-Carpenter arranged to have a 68-year-old client ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2013
Fall on Rock, Off Route
On June 6, Rick Barus (26) was leading pitch 16 of the West Face, just above Thanksgiving Ledge, when he took the left ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2013
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection – Boulder Dislodged
On February 10, a pair of experienced climbers were climbing Prerequisite for Excellence (5.8). The leader took a fall on a cam ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2013
Stranded, Off-Route, Darkness, Inexperience
On July 3 around 8 a.m., two climbers visiting from Ohio made the approach to the base of Epinephrine, a 5.9, 15-pitch ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2013
Fall on Rock, Off Route, Placed No or Inadequate Protection
On May 24, Adam Kimmerly (32) and William Olszewski (51) set out to climb the Grand Giraffe (six pitches, 5.9+) on Redgarden Wall. William ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2013
Fall on Rock - Rappel Error
On June 17, a 51-year-old male French climber was rappelling one of the descent lines on the East Ledges of El ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2013
Fall on Rock--Rappel Error
On September 20, according to Unified Police Capt. Kris Ownby, two men (23 and 31) were rappelling down the Challenge Buttress, just across ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2013
Fall on Rock, Loose Rock - Rockfall, Failure to Test Hold
On June 20 two experienced male climbers (32 and 39) from Japan were scrambling down the gully behind Sentinel Rock (the standard descent), ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2013
Atypical Hace
On June 3, an assistant guide (44) with American Alpine Institute radioed to NPS rangers at the 14,200-foot medical camp that he ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2013
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection
On April 25 a woman (25) fell 20 feet, landing on a ledge about 200 feet up from the base of the tower. She ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2013
Know the Ropes: Lowering
Lowering a climbing partner is among the most common situations leading to injuries and rescues reported in Accidents in North ...
ANAM
Feature Article
2013
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Belay - Rope Ran Through Belay Device, No Knot in Rope-End, Inexperience
During the early afternoon on March 24, Ira Lewis (33) climbed Malign (5.7), a one-pitch trad route on the Happy Hour Crag. After ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2013
Fall on Rock - Inadequate Belay, Lowering Error
On July 18 a male leader (20) had climbed Uncle Fanny (one pitch, 5.7) on a 60-meter rope and was being lowered by ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2013
Fall on Rock - Fall from Cliff Top, Poor Position
On July 11 a climber had just untied from the rope after completing a climb. The climber stepped backward at the ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2013
Avalanche, Weather, Poor Position
On June 12, a four-person rope team triggered an avalanche and was swept a short distance while traveling just below the ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2013
Fall on Rock - Rigging Error
On July 28, Ginnie (32) and Carl (23) were practicing aid climbing on the 165- foot first pitch of the Salathé Wall. They ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2013
Avalance, Poor Position, Weather
On January 5 a party of two was climbing Central Gully when the leader was hit with a naturally triggered sluff ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2013
Rappel Error, Stranded - Off Route, Unable to Reascend Rappel Rope, Inexperience
On August 4, Richard (18) and Chris (19) attempted to rappel the established Nose rappel route (20+ rappels) from the summit of El Capitan. ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2013
Fall on Rock, Not Secured to Cliff Top
On September 2, Treff Owen Carpenter (28) fell 70 feet to his death while setting up a top-rope climb on the Boulderado crag, ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2013
Stranded - Inattention
On December 20, I (Zach, 28) spent the day rope-soloing at Cookie Cliff. As the sun was getting low, I decided to ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2013
Slip on Ice, No Crampons, Probably Fatigue
On January 10, Gregory Frux (53) and Matt Burd (52), who had climbed Mt. Tripyramid North Peak the previous day, were joined by ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2013
Fall on Rock, Climbing Unroped, Rock Breaks
On May 25, T.J. Brumme (25) was photographing friends climbing in the Cat Slab area of Clear Creek Canyon. He soloed ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2013
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Belay
On June 9, Eric Johnson (23) of Reno fell approximately 40 feet off one of the area’s popular climbing routes, breaking both ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2013
Avalanche - Fall into Crevasse, Poor Position, Weather
On June 13, a five-member Japanese expedition, “Miyagi Workers Alpine Federation–MWAF-2012 Denali,” was involved in an avalanche while descending the ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2013
Fall on Rock, Climbing Alone
Early in the morning on Saturday, June 30, Michael Ybarra (45) set out by himself to traverse the Sawtooth Ridge, according to ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2013
Slip on Rock, Protection Pulled Out
Alexander Lee, left Boulder around 6 a.m., planning to climb the mostly fourth class Direct East Ridge (II 5.4) of Mt. ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2013
Fall on Rock, Off-Route, Unable to Clip Protection
On May 18 a Dartmouth Outing Club excursion to Rumney included nine climbers. When they arrived, they split into teams and ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2013
Fall on Rock - Rock came Loose
On April 23, Al Shaver is leading and I (Steve Nechodom) am following on Lost Horizons (5.8). Both of us are in ...
ANAM
Feature Article
2013
Fall on Rock, Loose Rock
On September 17, Derek Kelley (34) fell more than 600 feet to his death while climbing North Maroon Peak (14,014 feet). According to reports, ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2013
Fall on Rock - Tripped over Fixed Line
On July 24, Karen Gose (27) died of injuries sustained while demonstrating climbing and rappelling techniques on the face of Suicide Rock. ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2013
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Belay
At 2:50 p.m. on July 7, climbing ranger Brad Shilling was flagged down by a park visitor who reported there had ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2013
Fall on Rock, Rappel Error--Ropes Uneven
It was with special interest that I obtained the 2012 edition of Accidents in North American Mountaineering, because the “Know the ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2013
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection
In October I was leading the Left Ski Track (5.11a) on Intersection Rock and suffered a ground fall from about 20 ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2013
Fall on Rock, Not Attached to Belay Anchors
On March 19 a man (27) was standing on a belay ledge at the Sunnyside Wall when he stepped back too far ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2013
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, Inadequate Knowledge of Route Rating
On November 7, Bob (62) and I (67) arrived in Joshua Tree in celebration of Bob’s retirement. We spent the morning top-roping ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2013
Fall on Rock, Attempt to Clip Bolt - Too Much Slack in Rope
During the early evening on March 19, a woman (22) was leading the sport route Tanduay Time (5.10d) at the Boneyard Wall ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2013
Skiing - Exceeding Abilities, Poor Snow Conditions
On February 7, at 1:50 p.m., Banff Dispatch received a call from an injured skier who had just tumbled down the ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2013
Fall on Ice, Climbing Unroped, Inexperience
On December 15 the weather in the northern Adirondack Mountains was bluebird clear but cold. I had spent the day with ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2013
Rappel Error--Tangled in Ropes, Inexperienced
On September 18, Yoshio Hosobuchi (74), a retired neurosurgeon, was found dead after spending a night hanging upside down on his climbing ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2013
Stranded - Exceeding Abilities
On July 10, while climbing the Northeast Ridge of Mt. Bell near the Lake Louise area, a party of two contacted ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2013
Stranded - Climbing Alone, Failure to Follow Directions (Off Route), Exceeding Abilities
On the morning of July 20, a stranded climber called Banff Dispatch for a rescue. The climber had spent the night ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2013