American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

426 Records

Title Publication Year
New Speed Record on the Nose of El Capitan
From Hans' Facebook page: Alex Honnnold and I climbed The Nose route in 2:23:46 on Sunday June 17th. I’ve written ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2013
Doubleheader
"The essence of a climb burns out in the moment of experience.” Marko Prezelj’s words smoldered in my mind ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2013
Un Mar de Sueños
It was an idea born from years of climbing in Chaltén, of looking for adventure, of moving fast and ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2013
Bjørn-Eivind Årtun, 1966–2012
On February 7, 2012, my good friend and best climbing partner, Bjørn-Eivind Årtun, was killed along with his partner, Stein-Ivar Gravdal, ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2013
Bean Bowers, 1973-2011
I remember when it started, with a cryptic message from a friend in Ridgway, Colorado: “Have you talked to Helen ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2013
Harvey Carter, 1932-2012
Legendary Colorado climber Harvey T. Carter died in March at the age of 81 from prostate cancer. Harvey started climbing in ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2013
Herbert William Conn, 1920-2012
On February 1, 2012, the climbing and caving world lost a quiet and unassuming pioneer and role model. Herb Conn passed away ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2013
Bill Forrest, 1939-2012
A legend of the Colorado climbing scene, Bill Forrest died of a heart attack on December 21, while snowshoeing on Old ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2013
Maurice Herzog, 1919-2012
As the evening shadows gathered on June 3, 1950, the chances seemed slender that 31-year-old French climber Maurice Herzog would see the ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2013
Ben Horne, 1980-2012
The climbing world lost one of its most inspirational climbers when Ben Horne died while descending from a first ascent ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2013
Dale Johnson, 1931-2012
In the introduction to his autobiography, Dale Johnson quoted Christopher Morley: “There is only one success: To be able to ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2013
Ann Dodge Middleton, 1928–2012
Annie outdid her renowned father, Joe Dodge, as a mountaineer, and I believe that if she had not kept such ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2013
Roger Payne, 1956-2012
Roger and I first tied in together in 2002 at the base of a huge unclimbed ridge in Arizona’s Grand ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2013
Jack Roberts, 1952-2012
Jack Roberts, a mountain guide and guidebook author best known for desperate first ascents in Alaska, died on January 15, 2012, while ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2013
Gil Weiss, 1983-2012
Gil Weiss died with Ben Horne in July while descending from Paclaraju Oeste in the Cordillera Blanca, after establishing a ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2013
Yan Dongdong, 1984-2012
Yan Dongdong, one of China's leading alpinists, died in July in a crevasse fall while descending from a peak in ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2013
Michael J. Ybarra, 1966-2012
The eldest of three, Michael was the consummate big brother: self-assured, protective, and always the leader. From an early age ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2013
Necrology
Boris Avdeev Diana C. Dailey Bill E. Forrest Richard M. Gnagy Ben Horne Dale L. Johnson Ann D. Middleton Theodore ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2013
The Tooth Traverse
There are certain skylines wilder and far more beautiful than the sum of their parts: the Fitz Roy massif in ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2013
Chameleon Massif, Chameleon Air Society
In February 2013, I was on my way to California after fishing during the winter on the Bering Sea, and I ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Recon: Revelations
Deep in the southwest corner of Alaska, the Revelation Mountains, like their biblical namesake, comprise the final chapter of the ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2013
Look Out! Danger!
I dreamed I was in the Fisher Towers, walking on a ledge a couple of hundred feet up. I kept ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2013
Preface
CANADA We thank Canada for submitting reports from Alberta and British Columbia for this year. Robert Chisnall, an ACC member ...
ANAM
Editorials And Prefaces
2013
Fall on Snow, Unable to Self-Arrest, Faulty Use of Crampons--Failed to Put Them On
On February 4, while ascending the South Side Route, Andy Kim (age unknown) stopped at the 9,500-foot elevation to put on ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2013
Fall on Ice, Followed by Cardiac Arrest
Midday on January 15, Jack Roberts (58), a renowned ice climber and alpinist, died on the 400-foot Bridal Veil Falls (WI5). Jack ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2013
Fall on Snow, Failure to Self-Arrest, Inadequate Equipment - No Crampons
On April 21 a man (22) attempted to glissade down Avalanche Gulch below Redbanks. As the snow was too firm, he lost ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2013
Fall on Rock – Rappel Anchor Failure
On April 20 a party of three Japanese climbers set up a rappel on the route Shaken Not Stirred on the ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2013
Rappel Error - Fall on Ice
On February 18 a female ice climber (49) fell while rappelling during a guided ice climb with her husband and daughter. She ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2013
Party Separated, Lost, Unfamiliar with Terrain, Exhaustion
On June 16 a middle-aged climber with novice mountaineering skills, Chinyet Lin, was reported missing after an attempted one-day climb up ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2013
Fall on Rock, Untied from Rope, Lack of Communication
Late in the day on January 15, a male lead climber was attempting to climb the Second Flatiron, a low 5th-class ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2013
Fall on Snow, Unable to Self-Arrest, Party Separated
On February 5, while ascending the South Side Route, Meg Coker (35) lost her footing at about 10,500-foot elevation. She was unable ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2013
Communication Device Problem
On August 29 I received a call from Siskiyou County SAR, Celeste Fowler, stating that a SPOT device had been set ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2013
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Belay, Inadequate Protection
On September 18, Jacob van Almelo (25) was climbing the route Tigger (5.10a/b) when he fell at the crux move. His 30...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2013
Fall on Snow, Climbing Unroped
Steffen Machulka (49) was a member of the three-person German climbing team “Die Bahner.” On May 18 the team was on the ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2013
Fall on Snow - Ice Axe and Helmet in Pack
This fatal accident on February 6 was not witnessed, so many details remain unknown. Jared Townsley (31) was reported overdue from a ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2013
Further Notes from Mt. Shasta
Mt. Shasta had what most would say was a pretty “normal” season. The spring climbing season was very good, in ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2013
Fall on Rock
On July 10 an inexperienced climber seconding the First Flatiron injured his ankle while being belayed and could not move. The ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2013
Fall on Rock, Rappel Error - Failed to Clip to Anchor
On March 24 a man (27) and a woman (26) were rappelling to the base of Super Slide (5.9) at the Royal Arches area. ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2013
Fall on Snow, Inadequate Equipment, Exceeding Abilities
On June 12, Mark Cartier (56), a highly experienced climber, succumbed after falling approximately 1,000 feet while soloing a South Side route variation. ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2013
Fall on Rock - Rappel Error
On May 23 an experienced climber (male, 23) fell while rappelling. He self- rescued and reported the accident when he came to ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2013
Fall on Snow - Ski Mountaineering Decent, Exceeding Abilities
Ilkka Uusitalo (36) and the three other members of expedition “L10 at Denali 2012” left the 14,200-foot camp on the West Buttress ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2013
Falling Rock - Pulled Rock Off, Failed to Inspect Top of Boulder Problem
During the early afternoon on May 3, calls for help were reported near Realization Point on Flagstaff Mountain. Rocky Mountain Rescue ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2013
Fall on Rock, Inexperience, Weather
On April 5, a young woman (early 20s, I think) fell about 20 feet (though no one knows for sure because there ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2013
Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled Out - Inadequate Protection
On May 30, Mike Drake (22) was leading when his top aid piece failed on the upper half of the “Pancake Flake” (...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2013
Fall on Snow, Inadequate Equipment, Exceeding Abilities
Gary Morgan (52) had flown in from Michigan and was attempting a summit climb on June 21 by a South Side variation, ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2013
Fall on Rock, Belay Device Compromised
On March 31 a male climber had led the fourth pitch of Rewritten (5.7) and was belaying his male partner up the ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2013
Failure to Follow Route, Stranded, Weather
On November 28, Jeff Kish (30) soloed the South Side Route but was overcome by a storm during his descent. Unable to ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2013
Weather - Thunderstorm Causing Falling Rocks, Inadequate Clothing and Equipment - Left at Base of Climb
On June 4, Joe Ripperger (50) and Claire Epperson (25) climbed the East Buttress (11 pitches, 5.10c). The forecast for the day called for ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2013
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection
On April 7 around 3 p.m., my partner and I had just finished Physical Graffiti and were at the base of ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2013
Cardiac Condition - Failure to Inform Guide Service
On May 27, Alpine Ascents International (ALP) lead guide Sarah Carpenter of expedition Alp-3-Carpenter arranged to have a 68-year-old client ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2013