American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

426 Records

Title Publication Year
Keshni Khan Valley, White Pyramid (5,612m GPS) and other ascents
Alexandre Darrioulat, Franck Mazas, and Arnaud Pasquer (France) visited the Wakhan in July and August. Their original goal was an ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Koh-e-Ak Su range, Koh-e-Elgha Eli IV (ca 5,725m), northwest face and southwest ridge
In July our international team of five climbers started from Dushanbe (Tajikistan) on a nine-day approach to unexplored valleys in ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Koh-e-Wakhan Range, various attempts
Ben Mitchell, Cecelia Mortenson, Danny Uhlmann, and I traveled to the Big Pamir in May to explore the potential for ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Ak-su valley, Slesova (Russian Tower), La Fiamma d’Oriente, first free ascent
After a long and eventful hike to base camp in August and a week of recovering from illness, Madaleine Sorkin ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Ak-su valley, various routes
During three weeks in August, Anna Backlund and I visited the Ak-su area. Our main goal was the 800m Perestroika ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Lenin Peak, southwest rib of west ridge
In August the Russian and Latvian team of Mikhail Babich, Vladimir Lavrinenko, Andrei Lebedev (leader), Yuri Maksimovich, Valdis Purins, Oleg ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Teke-Tor (4,441m), northeast face, Korean Light Way
The Corean Alpine Club sponsored a four-man team to climb the northeast face of Teke-Tor in the Aksai Range. Ahn ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Shamsi Tuyuk Valley, various ascents
The Shamsi Tuyuk area lies approximately five main valleys, and 50km east, of the well-developed Ala Archa Range. Before the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Kokgart region, various ascents; At Bashi range, various ascents
Our International School of Mountaineering expedition (nine members and three guides) initially set out to explore the Kokgart region of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Dzhirnagaktu Glacier, various ascents
Continuing the work of the 2010 Krakow expedition, Conor Gilmore, Azwan Isa, Ronan Kernan, Bradley Morrell, and Alek and Vladimir Zholobenko ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Ochre Wall, new variation; Kyzyl Asker (5,842m), attempt on southeast face
In late September, Ryan Johnson and Samuel Johnson (unrelated) attempted a huge ice and mixed route on the ca 1,400m ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Khan Tengri (6,995m), north face direct, rare repeat
Kazakh climbers Ildar Gabassov, Vaso Pivtsov, and Alex Sofrygin completed a rare ascent of the ca 3,000m direct north face ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Huayna Potosi, south peak, east face, La Ventanita de la Paz
On the lower south summit (ca 5,960m) of Huayna Potosi, the Peruvian guide Victor Hugo Rimac climbed a new line ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Hampaturi Group, Serkhe Khollu (5,546m), Los Alcaldes de Serkhe Khollu; Huayna Potosi Group, Charquini (5,400m), Beisley- Monasterio Route, second ascent
On July 20 Robert Rauch and I made what we believe is the first ascent of a route on the right ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Hampaturi Group, Jati Khollu (5,421m), southeast ridge
It takes less than 20 years for a new lake to be formed by a retreating glacier. Robert Rauch and I ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Illimani (6,439m), south face, first or second ascent
For 20 years Argentinian mountain guide Gustavo Lisi has visited Bolivia during the dry season. We know each other, but as ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Palomani and Matchu Sochi Cuchi groups, various ascents
Our Slovenian expedition comprised Marta Krejan, Stanko Mihev, Vinko Mocilnik, Domen Petek, Franc Pusnik, Primoz Steharnik, Sebastjan Zapusek, and I, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Overview (2012)
In 2012 there were heavy snowfalls in both the rainy and dry seasons, which sometimes made for difficult conditions on the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Summary, various routes
It’s likely that more meters of new routes were opened in the 2012–13 climbing season than any other in Cochamó’...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
The Triple
Ever since Jim Bridwell, John Long, and Billy Westbay climbed the Nose in a day in May 1975, people have been ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2013
New Speed Record on the Nose of El Capitan
From Hans' Facebook page: Alex Honnnold and I climbed The Nose route in 2:23:46 on Sunday June 17th. I’ve written ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2013
Doubleheader
"The essence of a climb burns out in the moment of experience.” Marko Prezelj’s words smoldered in my mind ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2013
Un Mar de Sueños
It was an idea born from years of climbing in Chaltén, of looking for adventure, of moving fast and ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2013
Bjørn-Eivind Årtun, 1966–2012
On February 7, 2012, my good friend and best climbing partner, Bjørn-Eivind Årtun, was killed along with his partner, Stein-Ivar Gravdal, ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2013
Bean Bowers, 1973-2011
I remember when it started, with a cryptic message from a friend in Ridgway, Colorado: “Have you talked to Helen ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2013
Harvey Carter, 1932-2012
Legendary Colorado climber Harvey T. Carter died in March at the age of 81 from prostate cancer. Harvey started climbing in ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2013
Herbert William Conn, 1920-2012
On February 1, 2012, the climbing and caving world lost a quiet and unassuming pioneer and role model. Herb Conn passed away ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2013
Bill Forrest, 1939-2012
A legend of the Colorado climbing scene, Bill Forrest died of a heart attack on December 21, while snowshoeing on Old ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2013
Maurice Herzog, 1919-2012
As the evening shadows gathered on June 3, 1950, the chances seemed slender that 31-year-old French climber Maurice Herzog would see the ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2013
Ben Horne, 1980-2012
The climbing world lost one of its most inspirational climbers when Ben Horne died while descending from a first ascent ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2013
Dale Johnson, 1931-2012
In the introduction to his autobiography, Dale Johnson quoted Christopher Morley: “There is only one success: To be able to ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2013
Ann Dodge Middleton, 1928–2012
Annie outdid her renowned father, Joe Dodge, as a mountaineer, and I believe that if she had not kept such ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2013
Roger Payne, 1956-2012
Roger and I first tied in together in 2002 at the base of a huge unclimbed ridge in Arizona’s Grand ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2013
Jack Roberts, 1952-2012
Jack Roberts, a mountain guide and guidebook author best known for desperate first ascents in Alaska, died on January 15, 2012, while ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2013
Gil Weiss, 1983-2012
Gil Weiss died with Ben Horne in July while descending from Paclaraju Oeste in the Cordillera Blanca, after establishing a ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2013
Yan Dongdong, 1984-2012
Yan Dongdong, one of China's leading alpinists, died in July in a crevasse fall while descending from a peak in ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2013
Michael J. Ybarra, 1966-2012
The eldest of three, Michael was the consummate big brother: self-assured, protective, and always the leader. From an early age ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2013
Necrology
Boris Avdeev Diana C. Dailey Bill E. Forrest Richard M. Gnagy Ben Horne Dale L. Johnson Ann D. Middleton Theodore ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2013
The Tooth Traverse
There are certain skylines wilder and far more beautiful than the sum of their parts: the Fitz Roy massif in ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2013
Chameleon Massif, Chameleon Air Society
In February 2013, I was on my way to California after fishing during the winter on the Bering Sea, and I ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Recon: Revelations
Deep in the southwest corner of Alaska, the Revelation Mountains, like their biblical namesake, comprise the final chapter of the ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2013
Look Out! Danger!
I dreamed I was in the Fisher Towers, walking on a ledge a couple of hundred feet up. I kept ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2013
Preface
CANADA We thank Canada for submitting reports from Alberta and British Columbia for this year. Robert Chisnall, an ACC member ...
ANAM
Editorials And Prefaces
2013
Fall on Snow, Unable to Self-Arrest, Faulty Use of Crampons--Failed to Put Them On
On February 4, while ascending the South Side Route, Andy Kim (age unknown) stopped at the 9,500-foot elevation to put on ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2013
Fall on Ice, Followed by Cardiac Arrest
Midday on January 15, Jack Roberts (58), a renowned ice climber and alpinist, died on the 400-foot Bridal Veil Falls (WI5). Jack ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2013
Fall on Snow, Failure to Self-Arrest, Inadequate Equipment - No Crampons
On April 21 a man (22) attempted to glissade down Avalanche Gulch below Redbanks. As the snow was too firm, he lost ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2013
Fall on Rock – Rappel Anchor Failure
On April 20 a party of three Japanese climbers set up a rappel on the route Shaken Not Stirred on the ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2013
Rappel Error - Fall on Ice
On February 18 a female ice climber (49) fell while rappelling during a guided ice climb with her husband and daughter. She ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2013
Party Separated, Lost, Unfamiliar with Terrain, Exhaustion
On June 16 a middle-aged climber with novice mountaineering skills, Chinyet Lin, was reported missing after an attempted one-day climb up ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2013
Fall on Rock, Untied from Rope, Lack of Communication
Late in the day on January 15, a male lead climber was attempting to climb the Second Flatiron, a low 5th-class ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2013