American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

426 Records

Title Publication Year
Pangi Region, Shiva (6,142m), northeast ridge, The Prow of Shiva
Andrey Muryshev, who attempted the difficult northwest ridge of Shiva in 2010, was one of very few people to have seen ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
The Plateau, rare photographic coverage
Harish Kapadia, former editor of the Himalayan Journal , had made four trips to Sikkim before May 2012. One prize had escaped ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Giabul and Namka Tokpo valleys, various ascents and G22 (6,050m) attempt
In August, with five other members of the Scottish Mountaineering Club, I visited the Namka Tokpo valley of Zanskar, not ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Lenak Valley, Nga Tsoey Kangri (L13, 6,080m), first official ascent
After reading a report by Kimikazu Sakamoto on the exploration of Lenak and Giabul valleys [ AAJ 2012 ], Karin Kosaka, Yusuke Morimoto, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Temasa, Gompe, and Haptal valleys, exploration
South Zanskar is an exciting mountain area with many virgin peaks. In 2012 we did our third expedition to explore valleys ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Raru Valley, Katkar Kangri (R35, 6,148m), Muktik Skal (R26, 6,243m GPS), Lama Soo (5,947m, altimeter); Skilma Kangri (5,979m), east ridge
In August, Panos Athanasiadis, Nikos Lazanas, George Voutiropoulos, and I made a number of first ascents in the Raru Valley. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Bamyan skiing and ice climbing
In late February and March, John Trousdale, Elliott Woods, and I traveled to Bamyan to check out the potential for ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Mir Samir (5,809m), attempted first winter ascent
James and Edward Bingham, Quentin Brooksbank, and Mark Wynne (UK) attempted the first winter ascent of Mir Samir, a mountain ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Koh-e-Rank (5,930m), second and third ascents, west-east traverse
With Mary-Rose Fowlie (who hadn’t climbed for 20 years) and my brother Bill (who’d never climbed) both coming along ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Overview 2012 and Noshaq 2011
Few climbing expeditions visited the Wakhan Corridor during the summer, and all were affected by hostilities. Surprisingly, the hostilities in ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Ellsworth Mountains, Overview
Mt. Vinson (4,892m) continues to attract large numbers. One hundred and seventy individual climbers reached the summit during the 2012-13 ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Fenriskjeften Mountains, Ulvetanna (2,931m), northeast ridge
On January 20, 2013, Leo Houlding, Alastair Lee, Jason Pickles, Chris Rabone (all U.K.) and Sean Leary (USA) completed the first ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Wohlthat Mountains, Bertha’s Tower, Gammie Hannah’s Tower
If there was one thing that defined and controlled this trip—like a psychotic maestro conducting a death-metal- rock-and-roll orchestra—...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Beascochea Bay, various ascents
Three expeditions all targeted the same area of unclimbed mountains on the peninsula this season. Just south of the Waddington ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Beaschochea Bay, six first ascents
Hannah Baker, Derek Buckle, Jamie Goodhart, Mike Pinney, and I (all U.K.), Stefan Jachmich (Germany), and Bjorn Riis-Johannessen (Norway) ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Livingston Island, Sharp Peak (474m)
In the northeastern section of Livingston Island, a Chilean team of Gabriel Becker, Nicolas Danyau, and Gonzalo Lllul, traveling aboard ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Mt. Sidley
The experienced British and ALE Guide David Hamilton led Paul Nicholson and Russians Vyacheslav Adrov, Olga Rumyantseva, and Vitaly Simanovich ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Mt. Elizabeth, air crash
On January 23 the highest unclimbed mountain in Antarctica, Mt. Elizabeth (4,480m) in the Queen Alexandra Range, was the scene of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Traverse of Peak 4,810m, 1,000 Years of Russian Christianity, and Kotina; new route on Kotina; various other ascents
In mid-July I traveled to the Karavshin region with Peter Fasoldt. Our goal was the first alpine-style enchainment of the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Kara-su valley, Kotina, northwest arete, Dreaming Spires.
In August and September 2012, Tom Codrington, Ian Cooper, and I, from the Oxford University Mountaineering Club, took on the big ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Keshni Khan Valley, White Pyramid (5,612m GPS) and other ascents
Alexandre Darrioulat, Franck Mazas, and Arnaud Pasquer (France) visited the Wakhan in July and August. Their original goal was an ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Koh-e-Ak Su range, Koh-e-Elgha Eli IV (ca 5,725m), northwest face and southwest ridge
In July our international team of five climbers started from Dushanbe (Tajikistan) on a nine-day approach to unexplored valleys in ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Koh-e-Wakhan Range, various attempts
Ben Mitchell, Cecelia Mortenson, Danny Uhlmann, and I traveled to the Big Pamir in May to explore the potential for ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Ak-su valley, Slesova (Russian Tower), La Fiamma d’Oriente, first free ascent
After a long and eventful hike to base camp in August and a week of recovering from illness, Madaleine Sorkin ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Ak-su valley, various routes
During three weeks in August, Anna Backlund and I visited the Ak-su area. Our main goal was the 800m Perestroika ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Lenin Peak, southwest rib of west ridge
In August the Russian and Latvian team of Mikhail Babich, Vladimir Lavrinenko, Andrei Lebedev (leader), Yuri Maksimovich, Valdis Purins, Oleg ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Teke-Tor (4,441m), northeast face, Korean Light Way
The Corean Alpine Club sponsored a four-man team to climb the northeast face of Teke-Tor in the Aksai Range. Ahn ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Shamsi Tuyuk Valley, various ascents
The Shamsi Tuyuk area lies approximately five main valleys, and 50km east, of the well-developed Ala Archa Range. Before the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Kokgart region, various ascents; At Bashi range, various ascents
Our International School of Mountaineering expedition (nine members and three guides) initially set out to explore the Kokgart region of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Dzhirnagaktu Glacier, various ascents
Continuing the work of the 2010 Krakow expedition, Conor Gilmore, Azwan Isa, Ronan Kernan, Bradley Morrell, and Alek and Vladimir Zholobenko ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Ochre Wall, new variation; Kyzyl Asker (5,842m), attempt on southeast face
In late September, Ryan Johnson and Samuel Johnson (unrelated) attempted a huge ice and mixed route on the ca 1,400m ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Khan Tengri (6,995m), north face direct, rare repeat
Kazakh climbers Ildar Gabassov, Vaso Pivtsov, and Alex Sofrygin completed a rare ascent of the ca 3,000m direct north face ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Huayna Potosi, south peak, east face, La Ventanita de la Paz
On the lower south summit (ca 5,960m) of Huayna Potosi, the Peruvian guide Victor Hugo Rimac climbed a new line ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Hampaturi Group, Serkhe Khollu (5,546m), Los Alcaldes de Serkhe Khollu; Huayna Potosi Group, Charquini (5,400m), Beisley- Monasterio Route, second ascent
On July 20 Robert Rauch and I made what we believe is the first ascent of a route on the right ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Hampaturi Group, Jati Khollu (5,421m), southeast ridge
It takes less than 20 years for a new lake to be formed by a retreating glacier. Robert Rauch and I ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Illimani (6,439m), south face, first or second ascent
For 20 years Argentinian mountain guide Gustavo Lisi has visited Bolivia during the dry season. We know each other, but as ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Palomani and Matchu Sochi Cuchi groups, various ascents
Our Slovenian expedition comprised Marta Krejan, Stanko Mihev, Vinko Mocilnik, Domen Petek, Franc Pusnik, Primoz Steharnik, Sebastjan Zapusek, and I, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Overview (2012)
In 2012 there were heavy snowfalls in both the rainy and dry seasons, which sometimes made for difficult conditions on the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Summary, various routes
It’s likely that more meters of new routes were opened in the 2012–13 climbing season than any other in Cochamó’...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
The Triple
Ever since Jim Bridwell, John Long, and Billy Westbay climbed the Nose in a day in May 1975, people have been ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2013
New Speed Record on the Nose of El Capitan
From Hans' Facebook page: Alex Honnnold and I climbed The Nose route in 2:23:46 on Sunday June 17th. I’ve written ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2013
Doubleheader
"The essence of a climb burns out in the moment of experience.” Marko Prezelj’s words smoldered in my mind ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2013
Un Mar de Sueños
It was an idea born from years of climbing in Chaltén, of looking for adventure, of moving fast and ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2013
Bjørn-Eivind Årtun, 1966–2012
On February 7, 2012, my good friend and best climbing partner, Bjørn-Eivind Årtun, was killed along with his partner, Stein-Ivar Gravdal, ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2013
Bean Bowers, 1973-2011
I remember when it started, with a cryptic message from a friend in Ridgway, Colorado: “Have you talked to Helen ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2013
Harvey Carter, 1932-2012
Legendary Colorado climber Harvey T. Carter died in March at the age of 81 from prostate cancer. Harvey started climbing in ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2013
Herbert William Conn, 1920-2012
On February 1, 2012, the climbing and caving world lost a quiet and unassuming pioneer and role model. Herb Conn passed away ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2013
Bill Forrest, 1939-2012
A legend of the Colorado climbing scene, Bill Forrest died of a heart attack on December 21, while snowshoeing on Old ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2013
Maurice Herzog, 1919-2012
As the evening shadows gathered on June 3, 1950, the chances seemed slender that 31-year-old French climber Maurice Herzog would see the ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2013
Ben Horne, 1980-2012
The climbing world lost one of its most inspirational climbers when Ben Horne died while descending from a first ascent ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2013