American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

426 Records

Title Publication Year
Daogou (5,466m), northwest face
On October 24 and 25, Jérôme Para and I made the first ascent of the ca 700m northwest face of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Mt. Pomiu (a.k.a. Celestial Peak, 5,413m), southwest face and south-southwest ridge, The Western; south-southwest ridge, alternative start
In late July, Ye Feng, Zhang Yunping, and I climbed a new line up the southwest face to reach the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Mt. Pomiu, previous unreported ascents and history
Pomiu was first climbed in October 1983 by Ted Vaill’s American team, via a fairly direct line up the south ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Cerro Torre, bolt-less ascent of Corkscrew
From January 24–26, 2013, Chad Kellogg and I made the second ascent of Cerro Torre’s Corkscrew route: a link-up that climbs ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Mojon Rojo, west face, El Zorro
On February 21, Sarah Hart and I made the first ascent of the west face of Mojon Rojo , calling our route ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Torre Egger, west face, Notti Magiche
Three years ago, at a round table in Lecco, Italy, Mario Conti and Carlo Aldè showed Matteo “Berna” Bernasconi and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Fitz Roy, north face, Persiguiendo el Avión
After doing two first free ascents in the Torres del Paine [ see Chile section ] Stephane Hanssens and I headed back ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Fitz Roy, north face, Samba do Leao
This route is certainly one of the best first ascents I have ever done, especially given the enormity of the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Cerro Moyano, east buttress; Cerro Norte, east buttress
In November 2012, Oriol Baró and I climbed two new routes, one on Cerro Moyano, the other on Cerro Norte. These ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Rimo III (7,233m), southwest face, attempt; Dunglung Kangri (6,365m)
Our Indo-British expedition comprised Satyabrata Dam (Indian leader) and me (British leader), Paul Figg, Simon Yearsley (both U.K.), Dan ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Rongdo (Rongdu) Valley, first ascents
We were a modest group of four climbers: Dr. Jeff Dolinsky, his wife, Joan, and me, all from Canada, along ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Semartoli Valley, various ascents
In September, Joanna Campbell, Michael Cocker, John Kentish, Paul Padman, Michael Pinney, Stuart Worsfold, and I, all members of the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Pangi Region, Shakkar Peak (5,500m), northwest face and east ridge
Ian Cartwright and I made a one-day approach from Shiva basecamp at 3,850m in the Tarundi Valley into the high ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Charquini (5,392m), south face; Pico Milluni (5,500m), east face; Pico Italia (ca 5,750m), east face
The imposing east face of Pico Italia is unmissable to anyone climbing Huayna Potosi; the steep, 500m granite face forms ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Pangi Region, Shiva (6,142m), northeast ridge, The Prow of Shiva
Andrey Muryshev, who attempted the difficult northwest ridge of Shiva in 2010, was one of very few people to have seen ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Pt. ca 5,600m, north-northeast face, Largo’s Route
On November 5, Christophe Dumarest and I made the probable first ascent of Pt. ca 5,600m at the end of the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Xiao Xuebaoding (5,440m, Chinese map; 5,443m, GPS), northeast ridge
On May 3 Karim Adouane (France), Jon Otto (USA), Su Rongqin (a.k.a. Asu, China), and I made the first ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Baima Xueshan, first ascents
In 2012 I set up Summit Outdoor School, a nonprofit organization providing free courses to Chinese villages, outdoor, and university clubs. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Baima Xueshan, Zhalaqueni (5,429m)
Li Yuan, Zhang Xiaohui, and Zheng Chaohui made the first official ascent of the north summit of Zhalaqueni, reaching the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Laojun Shan National Park: Traditional rock climbing
Activity at the newly developed sandstone trad climbing area close to the town of Liming has increased: There are now ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Pangi Region, Shiva (6,142m), northeast ridge, The Prow of Shiva
Andrey Muryshev, who attempted the difficult northwest ridge of Shiva in 2010, was one of very few people to have seen ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
The Plateau, rare photographic coverage
Harish Kapadia, former editor of the Himalayan Journal , had made four trips to Sikkim before May 2012. One prize had escaped ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Giabul and Namka Tokpo valleys, various ascents and G22 (6,050m) attempt
In August, with five other members of the Scottish Mountaineering Club, I visited the Namka Tokpo valley of Zanskar, not ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Lenak Valley, Nga Tsoey Kangri (L13, 6,080m), first official ascent
After reading a report by Kimikazu Sakamoto on the exploration of Lenak and Giabul valleys [ AAJ 2012 ], Karin Kosaka, Yusuke Morimoto, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Temasa, Gompe, and Haptal valleys, exploration
South Zanskar is an exciting mountain area with many virgin peaks. In 2012 we did our third expedition to explore valleys ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Raru Valley, Katkar Kangri (R35, 6,148m), Muktik Skal (R26, 6,243m GPS), Lama Soo (5,947m, altimeter); Skilma Kangri (5,979m), east ridge
In August, Panos Athanasiadis, Nikos Lazanas, George Voutiropoulos, and I made a number of first ascents in the Raru Valley. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Bamyan skiing and ice climbing
In late February and March, John Trousdale, Elliott Woods, and I traveled to Bamyan to check out the potential for ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Mir Samir (5,809m), attempted first winter ascent
James and Edward Bingham, Quentin Brooksbank, and Mark Wynne (UK) attempted the first winter ascent of Mir Samir, a mountain ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Koh-e-Rank (5,930m), second and third ascents, west-east traverse
With Mary-Rose Fowlie (who hadn’t climbed for 20 years) and my brother Bill (who’d never climbed) both coming along ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Overview 2012 and Noshaq 2011
Few climbing expeditions visited the Wakhan Corridor during the summer, and all were affected by hostilities. Surprisingly, the hostilities in ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Ellsworth Mountains, Overview
Mt. Vinson (4,892m) continues to attract large numbers. One hundred and seventy individual climbers reached the summit during the 2012-13 ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Fenriskjeften Mountains, Ulvetanna (2,931m), northeast ridge
On January 20, 2013, Leo Houlding, Alastair Lee, Jason Pickles, Chris Rabone (all U.K.) and Sean Leary (USA) completed the first ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Wohlthat Mountains, Bertha’s Tower, Gammie Hannah’s Tower
If there was one thing that defined and controlled this trip—like a psychotic maestro conducting a death-metal- rock-and-roll orchestra—...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Beascochea Bay, various ascents
Three expeditions all targeted the same area of unclimbed mountains on the peninsula this season. Just south of the Waddington ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Beaschochea Bay, six first ascents
Hannah Baker, Derek Buckle, Jamie Goodhart, Mike Pinney, and I (all U.K.), Stefan Jachmich (Germany), and Bjorn Riis-Johannessen (Norway) ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Livingston Island, Sharp Peak (474m)
In the northeastern section of Livingston Island, a Chilean team of Gabriel Becker, Nicolas Danyau, and Gonzalo Lllul, traveling aboard ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Mt. Sidley
The experienced British and ALE Guide David Hamilton led Paul Nicholson and Russians Vyacheslav Adrov, Olga Rumyantseva, and Vitaly Simanovich ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Mt. Elizabeth, air crash
On January 23 the highest unclimbed mountain in Antarctica, Mt. Elizabeth (4,480m) in the Queen Alexandra Range, was the scene of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Traverse of Peak 4,810m, 1,000 Years of Russian Christianity, and Kotina; new route on Kotina; various other ascents
In mid-July I traveled to the Karavshin region with Peter Fasoldt. Our goal was the first alpine-style enchainment of the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Kara-su valley, Kotina, northwest arete, Dreaming Spires.
In August and September 2012, Tom Codrington, Ian Cooper, and I, from the Oxford University Mountaineering Club, took on the big ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Keshni Khan Valley, White Pyramid (5,612m GPS) and other ascents
Alexandre Darrioulat, Franck Mazas, and Arnaud Pasquer (France) visited the Wakhan in July and August. Their original goal was an ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Koh-e-Ak Su range, Koh-e-Elgha Eli IV (ca 5,725m), northwest face and southwest ridge
In July our international team of five climbers started from Dushanbe (Tajikistan) on a nine-day approach to unexplored valleys in ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Koh-e-Wakhan Range, various attempts
Ben Mitchell, Cecelia Mortenson, Danny Uhlmann, and I traveled to the Big Pamir in May to explore the potential for ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Ak-su valley, Slesova (Russian Tower), La Fiamma d’Oriente, first free ascent
After a long and eventful hike to base camp in August and a week of recovering from illness, Madaleine Sorkin ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Ak-su valley, various routes
During three weeks in August, Anna Backlund and I visited the Ak-su area. Our main goal was the 800m Perestroika ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Lenin Peak, southwest rib of west ridge
In August the Russian and Latvian team of Mikhail Babich, Vladimir Lavrinenko, Andrei Lebedev (leader), Yuri Maksimovich, Valdis Purins, Oleg ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Teke-Tor (4,441m), northeast face, Korean Light Way
The Corean Alpine Club sponsored a four-man team to climb the northeast face of Teke-Tor in the Aksai Range. Ahn ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Shamsi Tuyuk Valley, various ascents
The Shamsi Tuyuk area lies approximately five main valleys, and 50km east, of the well-developed Ala Archa Range. Before the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Kokgart region, various ascents; At Bashi range, various ascents
Our International School of Mountaineering expedition (nine members and three guides) initially set out to explore the Kokgart region of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Dzhirnagaktu Glacier, various ascents
Continuing the work of the 2010 Krakow expedition, Conor Gilmore, Azwan Isa, Ronan Kernan, Bradley Morrell, and Alek and Vladimir Zholobenko ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013