American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

426 Records

Title Publication Year
Heritage Point, new route, B Wright Dak.
In spring 2012, Josh Varney and partners established a new route on the seldom-climbed Heritage Wall, which is reached along the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Horn Spire, various attempts; west ridge, second ascent.
There are certain events in life that provide a reference point to a given time. If you are a climber ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Tatina Spire, Mt. Neveragain, various summits and possible first ascents.
The Equipe Nationale d’Alpinisme Masculine is a group of young climbers selected by the FFME to learn the skills ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Gheralta Massif and Adwa Mountains, new routes
Inspired by previous trips to Ethiopia by climbers such as Pat Littlejohn and Majka Burhardt, Dan Rothberg and I spent ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Gheralta Massif and Samayata, new routes.
In January 2012, the Spanish team of Marco Jubes, Edu Marin, and Toti Vales established two long, difficult free climbs in ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Middle Triple Peak, northwest pillar, Hard Arteries.
It started on a sun-soaked crag near home, when Twid Turner asked, “Dave, do you fancy getting strapped onto a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Mendenhall Towers, West Tower, The Fall Line
In October, during a rare high-pressure system, Gabe Hayden and I managed an interesting new line in the Mendenhall Towers, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Mt. Bradley, The Sum of Its Parts; Heavy Mettle
Silas Rossi and I established two new climbs on Mt. Bradley (9,104’). The first, completed on April 17, was a 49-hour camp-to-camp ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Mt. Dickey, northeast face, No Such Thing as a Bargain Promise
For me, the story of Mt. Dickey started in 2009, when Doug Shepherd took a chance and agreed to a Ruth ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Mt. Hunter, north buttress, Sympathy Variant
Choi Suk-mun, Moon Sung-wook, and I reached the top of Mt. Hunter on May 21 by a variation of Deprivation, the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Mt. Wake, south face, The Cook Inlet
Sometime during the spring of 2012, Jess Roskelley tracked me down through mutual friends and asked what resources I used for ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Mt. Hunter, north buttress, first solo ascent, no summit
In late May, I made the first solo ascent to the top of the Mount Hunter’s north buttress in 15 ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Mt. Steller second ascent, northwest ridge variation
On April 22, Jason Buttrick, Jay Claus, Paul Claus, Ruedi Homberger, and I climbed and skied Mt. Steller (10,515’). This was the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Revelation Mountains, various ascents.
In April our team of Bor Sumrada, Bostjan Virc, Dusan Huc, Grega Azman, Janez Rutar, Matej Pobezin, Urban Iglic, Valentina ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Golgotha, east face; The Angel, south ridge
During late March and early April, Ben Trocki and I established two climbs at the head of the Revelation Glacier—...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Mooses Tooth, east face, Magic Mushrooms; Bear Tooth, east face, Bear Skin.
The French Federation of Alpine Clubs (FFCAM) initiated this expedition as part of a dedicated training program to help young ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Peak 747, Kuriositeten; Americans Go Walking, first ascent
In April, Matt Barela, Mike Pond, and I climbed Kuriositeten (800m, AI5 M3+) on the east face of Peak 747, between ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Mt. Short, Siri’s Peak, Ocean Peak, and other summits, first ascents and new routes
In early June 2012, Sam Thompson (U.K.), Sara Arbos Torrent (Catalan), Arnaud Sors (France), and I traveled to a remote ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Europe and Scandinavia Summary
Europe The following climbs appeared on the “Super Big List” of 2012 ascents prepared for the 2013 Piolets d’Or jury. This ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Perfection Valley, Belly Tower, east face, The Door; White Wall, east face; Mt. Cook, northeast pillar, Levi is Coming
Big-wall climbing on Baffin Island was a personal dream for many, many years—a dream that was always in my ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Mt. Asgard, South Tower, Free Bavarian Direct (The Belgarian), First Free Ascent
A couple of moves, no more than one or two meters. That’s not far. Not nearly as far as ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Mt. Loki, south buttress, first free ascent; Mt. Asgard, south tower, north face, Sensory Overload
On the morning of July 17, Joshua Lavigne, Ines Papert, and I got off the plane in Pangnirtung. Three hours later ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Mt. Thor, southwest face
On July 19, Canadian climbers Bill Borger Jr. and John Furneaux climbed a new free variation on the far right side ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Eastern Fjords, Polar Molar, Bonfire of the Vanities
After a rest and recovery in Upernavik (see Greenland section), we made a four-day crossing to Pond Inlet in Baffin ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Sam Ford Fjord, Polar Sun Spire, north face, Superbalance
In May 2012, Marcin Tomaszewski and I completed a new route on the north face of Polar Sun Spire in Sam ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Snowpatch Spire, South Howser Tower, North Howser Tower, and other summits, new routes and first free ascents
Jonathan Schaffer and I had an incredible three-week trip to the Bugaboos this past summer. Experienced but young, our plan ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
De l’S, south face, Besos to Pesos; Aguja Bifida, north face, Gunnison Direct
In late January, David Allfrey and I established a new route up the center of the south face of De ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
North Joffre Creek, new routes; Mt. Athelstan, new route; Mt. Rexford, north couloir
Bruce Kay and partners have continued to develop the North Joffre Creek rock in the Mighty Mouse area, on the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
The Blade, IncogNeato; Stiletto Peak, The Canadian Club
On August 6, 2012, Blake Herrington, Scott Bennett, and I flew into the Sunny Knob base camp on the Tiedemann Glacier of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
South Howser Tower, northwest face, The Wandering Direct
In July, Jean-Pierre Ouellet and Matt McCormick climbed a new route on the northwest face of South Howser Tower. The ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Mt. King George, east face, Elzinga-Welsted
On September 15, 2012, Jim Elzinga and I went to the beautiful Height of the Rockies Provincial Park in British Columbia and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Canadian Rockies, summary
Big alpine ascents in the Canadian Rockies are few and far between. A variety of reasons for this undeniable fact ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Mt. Waddington to Mt. Asperity, high peaks solo traverse; first solo ascents
In mid-August 2012, I had an opportunity for a free helicopter ride into the Waddington Range with landscape photographer Scott Pick ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Mt. Proboscis, At Dawn We Ride; Women at Work, one-day free ascent
After much research and discussion in spring 2012, Ben Ditto, Mason Earle, Bronson Hovnanian, and I combined efforts for an expedition ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Mt. Logan, extended unsupported traverse
Joshua Foreman, Graham Kraft, Luc Mehl, Josh Mumm, and John Sykes made an unsupported traverse of Mt. Logan, traveling 370 miles ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Bloody Butte, The Coke Bottle, Tower of Kor, Bighorn Tower
I was fortunate to spend some time visiting with Layton Kor at his home in Kingman, Arizona, in the last ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Zoroaster Temple, southeast face
In April 2012, Mathieu Brown and Zach Harrison climbed a five-pitch, “stellar and demanding” route up the southeast face of Zoroaster, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Mt. Idaho, east face, new routes
In August 2012, two routes were established on the previously unclimbed east face of Mt. Idaho (12,065’). They both go more or ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Cactus Flower Tower, Blood on the Tracks; Mt. Wilson, Cactus Connection
In early April 2012, Chris Weidner and I linked up up two of the biggest peaks in Red Rock, in a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Cerro Murallón, El Pilar del Sol Naciente and history of climbs and attempts
Cerro Murallón (2,656m) rises above the Southern Patagonia Ice Cap, along the Argentina-Chile frontier. Although it has received several ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Fitz Roy, east face, The Real Kekec
After climbing the North Tower of Paine [ see Chile section of Climbs and Expeditions ], I was joined by Tadej Kriselj ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Cerro Torre, southeast ridge, fair-means ascent
After three days of rest following a new route on Fitz Roy, Tadej Kriselj and I made a fair-means ascent ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Bjerring Pedersens Glacier, various ascents
On June 25, 2011, my wife, Betsy Winston, and I arrived in Constable Pynt to celebrate our honeymoon by climbing and exploring ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
El Mocho, new route, Dulce de Leche
At the end of our visit to Patagonia, Tadej Kriselj and I used a short window of good weather to ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Castleton Tower, southeast face, Ivory Tower.
On October 22, 2012, Chris Kalous freed a wild new route, Ivory Tower (110m, 5.13b) on southeastern Utah’s iconic Castleton Tower. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Mystery Towers, Citadel, The Mugacki Variation
In October 2012, Fisher Towers veterans Joe Forrester and Jeremy Aslaksen climbed a new variation to the Forrest-Briggs route on the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Lone Peak Cirque, Summit Wall, The Wonderette
Over a handful of weekends from June to August 2012, I tricked three unsuspecting victims into making the 5,000’ vertical trek up ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Fisher Towers, The Oracle, Beak to the Future
In the fall of 2009, Jeremy Aslaksen and I climbed a new route on the south face of Kingfisher in the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
South Rim, Big Island area, Black Cloud
In the summer of 2012, Chris Righter and I were lured into establishing a new route on Wild Bill’s Wall, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
South Rim, The Quota
Jeff Popko and Chris Righter put up a six-pitch route, the Quota (750’, 5.12a), below the Cedar Point lookout. The crux ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013