American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

426 Records

Title Publication Year
Ojos del Salado to Pissis traverse
Ojos del Salado (6,893m) is the highest volcano on Earth and the second highest summit in South America. Pissis (6,800m, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Cerro Huayco (6,450m), northwest face
Argentines Glauco Muratti and Guillermo Bianchi made the first ascent of this volcanic summit on December 10. A subsidiary summit 2km ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Puna region, various ascents
During the second half of January 2012, Argentineans Sandra Odriozola, Christián Chávez, Matías Barberis, Pablo Barberis, Federico Barberis, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Nevado Tres Cruces, east face and first winter ascent; other winter ascents
Nevado Tres Cruces (6,749m) was the last peak over 6,500m on the continent without a winter ascent. Basques Jabi Txikon ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Cerro Bonete, first winter ascent; south summit, new route
The volcano Cerro Bonete (6,759m), located outside of La Rioja, is the continent’s fourth highest summit, the world’s ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Aconcagua, summary
In the 2012 season, 6,989 people traveled to Aconcagua—3,688 planned to reach the summit, and 3,301 visited the area for trekking. (The preceding ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Vallé Colorado, Boris Avdeev Route, new routes
Over a period of three weeks in December 2012 and January 2013, Anton Karnoup (Michigan,AAC) and I climbed a number of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Tatsienlu Massif, Baihaizishan (a.k.a. Tshungpingling, 5,924m PLA map), northwest ridge, attempt; Wupingfeng (5,672m), quasi-winter ascent via north ridge
One of the advantages of living in China is that it gives access to a number of unclimbed, indeed unattempted, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Melcyr Shan (5,910m),west face; Stifler’s Mom, west face and north ridge
Mirko Breckner, Max Dünsser, Dario Haselwarter, Reinhard Hones, Felix Sattleberger, and Uli Steiner, young climbers from the Deutscher Alpinverein (...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Janak Himal, Dome Kang (7,264m), east-southeast ridge; Domo (7,447m), southeast ridge
Undoubtedly the most significant Himalayan expedition by Indian mountaineers during 2012 resulted in the second ascents of two 7,000m summits, by ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Summary, various routes
According to various estimates, more than 150 people climbed the Ragni Route (600m, 90° M4) on the west face of Cerro Torre ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Bagini Glacier, unnamed peak, panoramic photo
Cas van den Gevel (The Netherlands) and William van Meegdenburg (Switzerland) climbed to 5,985m on an unnamed peak about 1km ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Kamet (7,756m), southwest face, Spicy Game
Expeditions to India can be a disaster for morale, if they experience a combination of bad conditions, bad weather, bad ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Lenak Valley, L10 (6,165m), north face and east ridge, first official ascent; L11 (6,045m), attempt
Young students Yuchiro Iida, Shimpei Kubota, Kensei Mitsui, Tomoyuki Takayama, and I as leader arrived in Darcha on August 18 and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Toro Peak, south face, Get Up in the Morning; David’s 62 Nose (ca 4,850m), southwest face, D’yer Mak’er.
In 2009, Pawel Fidryk and I visited the Miyar, where we made three ascents. We first climbed an obvious crack system ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Forgotten Peak (5,889m), southeast face, Never Ending Story
In mid-August, Phil Varley (U.K.), Marek Zoladek, and I (both Polish) arrived in the Miyar Valley, and after a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Toro Peak (4,970m, 2008 GPS reading), partial new routes on south face and southeast ridge; retrobolting
Three Indian climbers completed a partial new route up the south face of Toro in July, unwittingly following the 2008 Lopez-Pfaff ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Abi (5,694m), southeast ridge
Marion Poitevin, Christian Trommsdorff (French), and Gugu and Li Zhongli (Chinese) climbed Abi as a joint venture involving the French ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Chhudong Valley, new routes and second ascents
Iza Czaplicka, Ilona Gaweda, Bartlomiej Klimas, Joanna Klimas, my husband Adam Rys, and I, all from Poland, spent from August 15–...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Daogou Valley, Peak 5,062m, Rising Wind Horse Flag, and possible first ascent of peak; Peak 4,970m, east ridge; Shark’s Fin (5,086m), south face to east ridge (not to summit)
In August 2010, Li Yue and I spent 10 days exploring five different side branches of the Shuangqiao Gou. In late July 2011, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Daogou (5,466m), northwest face
On October 24 and 25, Jérôme Para and I made the first ascent of the ca 700m northwest face of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Mt. Pomiu (a.k.a. Celestial Peak, 5,413m), southwest face and south-southwest ridge, The Western; south-southwest ridge, alternative start
In late July, Ye Feng, Zhang Yunping, and I climbed a new line up the southwest face to reach the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Mt. Pomiu, previous unreported ascents and history
Pomiu was first climbed in October 1983 by Ted Vaill’s American team, via a fairly direct line up the south ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Cerro Torre, bolt-less ascent of Corkscrew
From January 24–26, 2013, Chad Kellogg and I made the second ascent of Cerro Torre’s Corkscrew route: a link-up that climbs ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Mojon Rojo, west face, El Zorro
On February 21, Sarah Hart and I made the first ascent of the west face of Mojon Rojo , calling our route ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Torre Egger, west face, Notti Magiche
Three years ago, at a round table in Lecco, Italy, Mario Conti and Carlo Aldè showed Matteo “Berna” Bernasconi and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Fitz Roy, north face, Persiguiendo el Avión
After doing two first free ascents in the Torres del Paine [ see Chile section ] Stephane Hanssens and I headed back ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Fitz Roy, north face, Samba do Leao
This route is certainly one of the best first ascents I have ever done, especially given the enormity of the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Cerro Moyano, east buttress; Cerro Norte, east buttress
In November 2012, Oriol Baró and I climbed two new routes, one on Cerro Moyano, the other on Cerro Norte. These ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Rimo III (7,233m), southwest face, attempt; Dunglung Kangri (6,365m)
Our Indo-British expedition comprised Satyabrata Dam (Indian leader) and me (British leader), Paul Figg, Simon Yearsley (both U.K.), Dan ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Rongdo (Rongdu) Valley, first ascents
We were a modest group of four climbers: Dr. Jeff Dolinsky, his wife, Joan, and me, all from Canada, along ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Semartoli Valley, various ascents
In September, Joanna Campbell, Michael Cocker, John Kentish, Paul Padman, Michael Pinney, Stuart Worsfold, and I, all members of the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Pangi Region, Shakkar Peak (5,500m), northwest face and east ridge
Ian Cartwright and I made a one-day approach from Shiva basecamp at 3,850m in the Tarundi Valley into the high ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Charquini (5,392m), south face; Pico Milluni (5,500m), east face; Pico Italia (ca 5,750m), east face
The imposing east face of Pico Italia is unmissable to anyone climbing Huayna Potosi; the steep, 500m granite face forms ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Pangi Region, Shiva (6,142m), northeast ridge, The Prow of Shiva
Andrey Muryshev, who attempted the difficult northwest ridge of Shiva in 2010, was one of very few people to have seen ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Pt. ca 5,600m, north-northeast face, Largo’s Route
On November 5, Christophe Dumarest and I made the probable first ascent of Pt. ca 5,600m at the end of the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Xiao Xuebaoding (5,440m, Chinese map; 5,443m, GPS), northeast ridge
On May 3 Karim Adouane (France), Jon Otto (USA), Su Rongqin (a.k.a. Asu, China), and I made the first ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Baima Xueshan, first ascents
In 2012 I set up Summit Outdoor School, a nonprofit organization providing free courses to Chinese villages, outdoor, and university clubs. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Baima Xueshan, Zhalaqueni (5,429m)
Li Yuan, Zhang Xiaohui, and Zheng Chaohui made the first official ascent of the north summit of Zhalaqueni, reaching the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Laojun Shan National Park: Traditional rock climbing
Activity at the newly developed sandstone trad climbing area close to the town of Liming has increased: There are now ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Pangi Region, Shiva (6,142m), northeast ridge, The Prow of Shiva
Andrey Muryshev, who attempted the difficult northwest ridge of Shiva in 2010, was one of very few people to have seen ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
The Plateau, rare photographic coverage
Harish Kapadia, former editor of the Himalayan Journal , had made four trips to Sikkim before May 2012. One prize had escaped ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Giabul and Namka Tokpo valleys, various ascents and G22 (6,050m) attempt
In August, with five other members of the Scottish Mountaineering Club, I visited the Namka Tokpo valley of Zanskar, not ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Lenak Valley, Nga Tsoey Kangri (L13, 6,080m), first official ascent
After reading a report by Kimikazu Sakamoto on the exploration of Lenak and Giabul valleys [ AAJ 2012 ], Karin Kosaka, Yusuke Morimoto, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Temasa, Gompe, and Haptal valleys, exploration
South Zanskar is an exciting mountain area with many virgin peaks. In 2012 we did our third expedition to explore valleys ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Raru Valley, Katkar Kangri (R35, 6,148m), Muktik Skal (R26, 6,243m GPS), Lama Soo (5,947m, altimeter); Skilma Kangri (5,979m), east ridge
In August, Panos Athanasiadis, Nikos Lazanas, George Voutiropoulos, and I made a number of first ascents in the Raru Valley. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Bamyan skiing and ice climbing
In late February and March, John Trousdale, Elliott Woods, and I traveled to Bamyan to check out the potential for ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Mir Samir (5,809m), attempted first winter ascent
James and Edward Bingham, Quentin Brooksbank, and Mark Wynne (UK) attempted the first winter ascent of Mir Samir, a mountain ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Koh-e-Rank (5,930m), second and third ascents, west-east traverse
With Mary-Rose Fowlie (who hadn’t climbed for 20 years) and my brother Bill (who’d never climbed) both coming along ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Overview 2012 and Noshaq 2011
Few climbing expeditions visited the Wakhan Corridor during the summer, and all were affected by hostilities. Surprisingly, the hostilities in ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013