American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

426 Records

Title Publication Year
Pared La Paz, A Poto Pelao Po
The initial project for Cyril Mokobodzki, Polo Barneoud, Nicolas Rotureau, and I (all from France) was to open a new 1,000...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Anfiteatro, New Routes
In February 2013, after six sunny weeks of climbing in Cochamó, May Martin, Tyler Gagne, and I finished our trip by ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Pared del Tiempo, The Doppler Effect
In mid-January 2013, I arrived in Cochamó without sleep (lost on a bus), a partner (summiting Fitz Roy), or a plan ( ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Colmillo Este, Colmillo del Diablo
The first weekend of November, Ulises Espinosa and I, members of the Perros Alpinos Mountain Group, went to Cajon de ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Cajon del Estero Aucayes, Cinco Mil, New Route Potential
In December I traveled to the Cajon del Estero Aucayes, using horse support to reach a base camp at ca 2,500...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Cerro Panamericano
In April, the Perros Alpinos mountain group traveled to the Nieves Negras, located near the border of Chile and Argentina ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Punton Amarillo
In November, Chilean climbers Alvaro Vivanco, Juanita Guerra, and I, along with the German climber Max Beckmann, traveled to the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Monte Giordano, West Ridge, Shark’s Fin Ridge
In April 2012, Jorg Heller, Robert Jasper, and I climbed the west ridge of Monte Giordano in Tierra del Fuego’s ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Cerro Castillo, Torreón Chala (North Tower)
Cerro Castillo is a rocky massif located outside of Aysén, Chile. It contains a central tower surrounded by various ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Summary, Other Ascents
In January 2013, Steve Schneider climbed the South Tower with Ivo Kusanovic and Schneider’s wife, Heather Baer. Kusanovic was the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
North Tower of Paine, Zuko Traverse
In December 2012, I flew to Patagonia with Andrej Grmovsek, another Slovenian. We arrived in El Calafate, but one of our ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
North Tower, East Face, Plate Tectonics
Amy Ness and I began climbing the east face of the North Tower on January 9, 2013. We planned for 12 days on ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Cerro Catedral, East Face, First Free Ascent
Cerro Cota 2000, east face, first free ascent. Stephane Hanssens, Merlin Didier, and I spent January 14 to February 12, 2013, in the French ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Ang Tung Range, Petze Kangri (6,130m) and Lugzl Pombo (6,414m)
In August, Aditi and Rajesh Gadjil, Vineeta Muni, Lt. Col. Shamsher Singh, and I visited the Ang Tung Range, northwest ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Crown Mountain (5,609m PLA map), northwest face and west ridge
On September 3, 2011, Szu- ting Yi (Taiwan), Eric Salazar, and I (both U.S.) made the first ascent of Crown Mountain ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Kemailong (5,873m), south ridge, Joining Hands
On October 1, Szu-ting Yi (Taiwan) and I climbed the ca 1,050m south ridge of Kemailong to make the first ascent ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Arwa Spire (6,193m), north face, Fior di Vite, first free ascent
On September 28 Simon Gietl and I stood on the summit of the Arwa Spire. Only 10 days previously I had been ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Dhakoba (1,275m), north face, left route
In September veteran climbers from Pune organized a trip with climbers from the “new generation” to stimulate interest in big-wall ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Volcán Tres Picos, first ascent
Volcán Tres Picos (6,037m) lies northwest of the Pissis massif, outside Catamarca, and until recently was one of the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Basque Traverse, Ojos del Salado to Volcán San Francisco
In February 2012, Jabi Txikon, Juan Nogueras, and Arkaitz Ibarra set out to for a 200km traverse of some the highest ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Ojos del Salado to Pissis traverse
Ojos del Salado (6,893m) is the highest volcano on Earth and the second highest summit in South America. Pissis (6,800m, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Cerro Huayco (6,450m), northwest face
Argentines Glauco Muratti and Guillermo Bianchi made the first ascent of this volcanic summit on December 10. A subsidiary summit 2km ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Puna region, various ascents
During the second half of January 2012, Argentineans Sandra Odriozola, Christián Chávez, Matías Barberis, Pablo Barberis, Federico Barberis, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Nevado Tres Cruces, east face and first winter ascent; other winter ascents
Nevado Tres Cruces (6,749m) was the last peak over 6,500m on the continent without a winter ascent. Basques Jabi Txikon ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Cerro Bonete, first winter ascent; south summit, new route
The volcano Cerro Bonete (6,759m), located outside of La Rioja, is the continent’s fourth highest summit, the world’s ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Aconcagua, summary
In the 2012 season, 6,989 people traveled to Aconcagua—3,688 planned to reach the summit, and 3,301 visited the area for trekking. (The preceding ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Vallé Colorado, Boris Avdeev Route, new routes
Over a period of three weeks in December 2012 and January 2013, Anton Karnoup (Michigan,AAC) and I climbed a number of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Tatsienlu Massif, Baihaizishan (a.k.a. Tshungpingling, 5,924m PLA map), northwest ridge, attempt; Wupingfeng (5,672m), quasi-winter ascent via north ridge
One of the advantages of living in China is that it gives access to a number of unclimbed, indeed unattempted, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Melcyr Shan (5,910m),west face; Stifler’s Mom, west face and north ridge
Mirko Breckner, Max Dünsser, Dario Haselwarter, Reinhard Hones, Felix Sattleberger, and Uli Steiner, young climbers from the Deutscher Alpinverein (...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Janak Himal, Dome Kang (7,264m), east-southeast ridge; Domo (7,447m), southeast ridge
Undoubtedly the most significant Himalayan expedition by Indian mountaineers during 2012 resulted in the second ascents of two 7,000m summits, by ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Summary, various routes
According to various estimates, more than 150 people climbed the Ragni Route (600m, 90° M4) on the west face of Cerro Torre ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Bagini Glacier, unnamed peak, panoramic photo
Cas van den Gevel (The Netherlands) and William van Meegdenburg (Switzerland) climbed to 5,985m on an unnamed peak about 1km ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Kamet (7,756m), southwest face, Spicy Game
Expeditions to India can be a disaster for morale, if they experience a combination of bad conditions, bad weather, bad ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Lenak Valley, L10 (6,165m), north face and east ridge, first official ascent; L11 (6,045m), attempt
Young students Yuchiro Iida, Shimpei Kubota, Kensei Mitsui, Tomoyuki Takayama, and I as leader arrived in Darcha on August 18 and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Toro Peak, south face, Get Up in the Morning; David’s 62 Nose (ca 4,850m), southwest face, D’yer Mak’er.
In 2009, Pawel Fidryk and I visited the Miyar, where we made three ascents. We first climbed an obvious crack system ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Forgotten Peak (5,889m), southeast face, Never Ending Story
In mid-August, Phil Varley (U.K.), Marek Zoladek, and I (both Polish) arrived in the Miyar Valley, and after a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Toro Peak (4,970m, 2008 GPS reading), partial new routes on south face and southeast ridge; retrobolting
Three Indian climbers completed a partial new route up the south face of Toro in July, unwittingly following the 2008 Lopez-Pfaff ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Abi (5,694m), southeast ridge
Marion Poitevin, Christian Trommsdorff (French), and Gugu and Li Zhongli (Chinese) climbed Abi as a joint venture involving the French ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Chhudong Valley, new routes and second ascents
Iza Czaplicka, Ilona Gaweda, Bartlomiej Klimas, Joanna Klimas, my husband Adam Rys, and I, all from Poland, spent from August 15–...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Daogou Valley, Peak 5,062m, Rising Wind Horse Flag, and possible first ascent of peak; Peak 4,970m, east ridge; Shark’s Fin (5,086m), south face to east ridge (not to summit)
In August 2010, Li Yue and I spent 10 days exploring five different side branches of the Shuangqiao Gou. In late July 2011, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Daogou (5,466m), northwest face
On October 24 and 25, Jérôme Para and I made the first ascent of the ca 700m northwest face of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Mt. Pomiu (a.k.a. Celestial Peak, 5,413m), southwest face and south-southwest ridge, The Western; south-southwest ridge, alternative start
In late July, Ye Feng, Zhang Yunping, and I climbed a new line up the southwest face to reach the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Mt. Pomiu, previous unreported ascents and history
Pomiu was first climbed in October 1983 by Ted Vaill’s American team, via a fairly direct line up the south ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Cerro Torre, bolt-less ascent of Corkscrew
From January 24–26, 2013, Chad Kellogg and I made the second ascent of Cerro Torre’s Corkscrew route: a link-up that climbs ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Mojon Rojo, west face, El Zorro
On February 21, Sarah Hart and I made the first ascent of the west face of Mojon Rojo , calling our route ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Torre Egger, west face, Notti Magiche
Three years ago, at a round table in Lecco, Italy, Mario Conti and Carlo Aldè showed Matteo “Berna” Bernasconi and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Fitz Roy, north face, Persiguiendo el Avión
After doing two first free ascents in the Torres del Paine [ see Chile section ] Stephane Hanssens and I headed back ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Fitz Roy, north face, Samba do Leao
This route is certainly one of the best first ascents I have ever done, especially given the enormity of the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Cerro Moyano, east buttress; Cerro Norte, east buttress
In November 2012, Oriol Baró and I climbed two new routes, one on Cerro Moyano, the other on Cerro Norte. These ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Rimo III (7,233m), southwest face, attempt; Dunglung Kangri (6,365m)
Our Indo-British expedition comprised Satyabrata Dam (Indian leader) and me (British leader), Paul Figg, Simon Yearsley (both U.K.), Dan ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013