American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

426 Records

Title Publication Year
Acopan Tepui, In Gold Blood
Pat Goodman, José Miranda, and I first attempted this line in February 2012 with a Jonny Copp Foundation Grant, completing four ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Western Hajar, Jabal Kawr, Jabal Murri, Jabal Nakhus, various routes
During December 2012 and January 2013, I made my fifth climbing visit to Oman’s Western Hajar mountains, this time with Dave ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Acopan Tepui, Miss Acopan
In December 2011, Andrej Grmovsek, Tanja Grmovek, Matic Obid, and I were sitting in the first row of a chilled out ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Murmansk, Khibini Mountains, Vudyavr mixed routes
Sergey Nefedov, Alexey Romanov, and Max Sotnik explored the winter climbing potential of Khibini in the Murmansk region, just east ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Franz Josef Land, exploration
After eight years of research, I obtained permission to go to Franz Josef Land, a 192-island Arctic archipelago, on my ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Kara-kaya Main (3,646m), new route in winter
Alexander Lavrinenko and Taras Tsushko (Ukraine) added a route to the ca 750m limestone wall north of Bezengi, climbing as ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Morcheka, free routes and controversy
Russian climber Sergey Nefedov, who in 2010 had freed the 335m route Machombo at 7c+, revisited Morcheka in May and free-climbed ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Parandas, north face, new route
Mt. Parandas (4,250m) has an 800m north wall with lots of overhangs but also decent ledges, so one can climb ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Peak Korzhenevskaya (7,105m), traverse via new route up west ridge
Today there are at least 17 unique routes to the summit of Korzhenevskaya. Fourteen of them start from the Moskvin Glacier, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Gissar Range, Soming Valley, various ascents
In September we made a four-day trip to Soming Valley in the central Gissar Range, just south of Iskanderkul Lake. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Churen Himal West (7,371m), southwest face to southeast ridge, attempt
` The high and remote massif of Churen Himal has three summits: Churen Himal West, Central, and East. All are given ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Himjung (7,092m)
Himjung (7,092m). Koreans Ahn Chi-young and Kim Chang-ho made the first ascent, via the southwest face, of one of the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Simnang Himal (6,251m), south-southeast face
On October 23 Sergey Bublik and Mykola (Nicolay) Shymko made the first ascent of Simnang Himal via an alpine-style climb directly ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Pt. 5,766m, west face and north ridge; Langmoche Ri (6,552m), northwest ridge
In November, Tino Villanueva and I (USA) spent the month making seven first ascents in Rolwaling. Five of these were ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Lunag Group; Peak 5,777m, Awesome Show, Great Job!; Peak 5,855m, north face couloir, second ascent; Peak 6,478m, northeast face, attempt
Chris Wright and I read about the Lunag Massif in a feature article by Joe Puryear in AAJ 2010. Thanks to ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Kyashar (6,770m), south pillar, Nima Line
In November Tatsuya Aoki, Yasuhiro Hanatani, and Hiroyoshi Manome made the long-awaited first ascent of the south pillar of Kyashar (...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Kyashar (6,770m), south pillar, attempt
In October 2011 Chamonix guides Mathieu Détrie, Pierre Labbre, and Jérôme Para made a spirited attempt on the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Various ascents
While there is no suggestion that the following routes are new, they are previously unrecorded, and took place during the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Peak 41 (6,648m), north face, attempt
In October Jack Geldard and I made an unsuccessful attempt on the north face of Peak 41, a steep snow, ice, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Hunku (6,119m), possible first ascent; Chamlang (7,321m), north face, attempt
Post-monsoon in Nepal was frustrating, to say the least, with five weeks of the most stable weather that Nick Bullock ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Chago Ridge, south-north traverse
From May 5-7, 2011, during an acclimatization phase as members of a mostly Slovenian expedition attempting Makalu, Steve House and Marko ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Janak (7,040m), west face
Young Slovenians Nejc Marcic and Luka Strazar, who received a 2012 Piolet d’Or for their fast and minimalist first ascent ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
South Chulebos Massif, Peak ca 5,861m, ascent and tragedy
On July 9 the internationally recognized Chinese alpinist Yan Dongdong was killed in a crevasse fall in the Central Tien Shan. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Yan Dongdong
Yan Dongdong, one of China’s leading alpinists, died in July in a crevasse fall while descending from a peak ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2013
Keketuohai National Park, new routes and access
In September, Garrett Bradley, Andrew Hedesh, Aleksandra (Ola) Przybysz, Torsten Treufeld, Li Yuanliang, and I traveled to Keketuohai (local name ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Gangga and Kawarori massifs, reconnaissance
With the political situation sensitive and uncertain in East Tibet, my preferred field of research, I organized a survey team ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Cerro Meliquina, Southwest Face
I had been eyeing a line on the southwest face of Cerro Meliquina (2,602m) since my 2011 trip to the peak ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Summary, Various Routes
Summary, various routes. It’s likely that more meters of new routes were opened in the 2012–13 climbing season than any ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Pared del Tiempo, The Coriolis Effect
The sensation of being a climber and walking into Cochamó Valley for the first time—especially after six months of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
El Monstruo, La Presencia de mi Padre
I felt an instant attraction to El Monstruo when I saw one of the few existing pictures of the biggest, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Pared La Paz, A Poto Pelao Po
The initial project for Cyril Mokobodzki, Polo Barneoud, Nicolas Rotureau, and I (all from France) was to open a new 1,000...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Anfiteatro, New Routes
In February 2013, after six sunny weeks of climbing in Cochamó, May Martin, Tyler Gagne, and I finished our trip by ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Pared del Tiempo, The Doppler Effect
In mid-January 2013, I arrived in Cochamó without sleep (lost on a bus), a partner (summiting Fitz Roy), or a plan ( ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Colmillo Este, Colmillo del Diablo
The first weekend of November, Ulises Espinosa and I, members of the Perros Alpinos Mountain Group, went to Cajon de ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Cajon del Estero Aucayes, Cinco Mil, New Route Potential
In December I traveled to the Cajon del Estero Aucayes, using horse support to reach a base camp at ca 2,500...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Cerro Panamericano
In April, the Perros Alpinos mountain group traveled to the Nieves Negras, located near the border of Chile and Argentina ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Punton Amarillo
In November, Chilean climbers Alvaro Vivanco, Juanita Guerra, and I, along with the German climber Max Beckmann, traveled to the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Monte Giordano, West Ridge, Shark’s Fin Ridge
In April 2012, Jorg Heller, Robert Jasper, and I climbed the west ridge of Monte Giordano in Tierra del Fuego’s ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Cerro Castillo, Torreón Chala (North Tower)
Cerro Castillo is a rocky massif located outside of Aysén, Chile. It contains a central tower surrounded by various ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Summary, Other Ascents
In January 2013, Steve Schneider climbed the South Tower with Ivo Kusanovic and Schneider’s wife, Heather Baer. Kusanovic was the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
North Tower of Paine, Zuko Traverse
In December 2012, I flew to Patagonia with Andrej Grmovsek, another Slovenian. We arrived in El Calafate, but one of our ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
North Tower, East Face, Plate Tectonics
Amy Ness and I began climbing the east face of the North Tower on January 9, 2013. We planned for 12 days on ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Cerro Catedral, East Face, First Free Ascent
Cerro Cota 2000, east face, first free ascent. Stephane Hanssens, Merlin Didier, and I spent January 14 to February 12, 2013, in the French ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Ang Tung Range, Petze Kangri (6,130m) and Lugzl Pombo (6,414m)
In August, Aditi and Rajesh Gadjil, Vineeta Muni, Lt. Col. Shamsher Singh, and I visited the Ang Tung Range, northwest ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Crown Mountain (5,609m PLA map), northwest face and west ridge
On September 3, 2011, Szu- ting Yi (Taiwan), Eric Salazar, and I (both U.S.) made the first ascent of Crown Mountain ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Kemailong (5,873m), South Ridge, Joining Hands
On October 1, Szu-ting Yi (Taiwan) and I climbed the ca 1,050m south ridge of Kemailong to make the first ascent ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Arwa Spire (6,193m), north face, Fior di Vite, first free ascent
On September 28 Simon Gietl and I stood on the summit of the Arwa Spire. Only 10 days previously I had been ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Dhakoba (1,275m), north face, left route
In September veteran climbers from Pune organized a trip with climbers from the “new generation” to stimulate interest in big-wall ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Volcán Tres Picos, first ascent
Volcán Tres Picos (6,037m) lies northwest of the Pissis massif, outside Catamarca, and until recently was one of the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Basque Traverse, Ojos del Salado to Volcán San Francisco
In February 2012, Jabi Txikon, Juan Nogueras, and Arkaitz Ibarra set out to for a 200km traverse of some the highest ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013