American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

426 Records

Title Publication Year
Coropuna Central II (6,161m), first ascent; Corupuna, history
In June, a group of Spanish mountaineers, Jorge Perez, Eduardo Ruiz, and Jose Martinez, climbed a new route up one ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Huandoy Este, Northwest Face
While climbing La Esfinge in the Paron Valley in 2011, the Ecuadorian climber Joshua Jarràn (IFMGA) took interest in the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Jirishanca, east face to east buttress, attempt
On May 27, 2012, German climbers Michi Wohlleben, Johannes Arne, Bergau Jahn, and photographer Hans Hornberger traveled to Lima to attempt Jirishanca (6,094...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Nevado Chicón, northeast summit (5,495m); unnamed summit (5,024m); new route potential
On March 24, Peruvian climber Jorge “Coqui” Gálvez, who had made two previous attempts on the southeast face of Nevado ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Palcaraju Oeste, south face, new route and tragedy
In June 2012, Asa Firestone and Gil Weiss traveled to the Cordillera Blanca. During a day trip to scope out conditions ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Geyikbayiri, Geyik Sivrisi, Crazy Eye
The Geyikbayiri area is popular for sport climbing, but when Michael Pearson and I traveled there in July we had ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Pisco, south face, new route
Florian Burg­er (Austria) and I left Huaraz on August 18 with a plan to climb the west face of Yerupaja ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Bisotoon, overview, and 2012 International Meet
The second International Rock Climbing Festival, organized by the Iranian Mountain Federation and Iranian Alpine Club, took place in mid- ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Pumahuacanca, northeast face
. I left Huaraz on October 14 with aspirant guide Yonny Rosales to teach a guiding course. Our itinerary included Shacsha, Huruashraju, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Bisotoon, various routes
In January 2013, Miquel Sanchez, Alfons Valls, and I climbed a possible new route on Bisotoon. Along with Joan Sole? and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Acopan Tepui, In Gold Blood
Pat Goodman, José Miranda, and I first attempted this line in February 2012 with a Jonny Copp Foundation Grant, completing four ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Western Hajar, Jabal Kawr, Jabal Murri, Jabal Nakhus, various routes
During December 2012 and January 2013, I made my fifth climbing visit to Oman’s Western Hajar mountains, this time with Dave ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Acopan Tepui, Miss Acopan
In December 2011, Andrej Grmovsek, Tanja Grmovek, Matic Obid, and I were sitting in the first row of a chilled out ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Murmansk, Khibini Mountains, Vudyavr mixed routes
Sergey Nefedov, Alexey Romanov, and Max Sotnik explored the winter climbing potential of Khibini in the Murmansk region, just east ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Franz Josef Land, exploration
After eight years of research, I obtained permission to go to Franz Josef Land, a 192-island Arctic archipelago, on my ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Kara-kaya Main (3,646m), new route in winter
Alexander Lavrinenko and Taras Tsushko (Ukraine) added a route to the ca 750m limestone wall north of Bezengi, climbing as ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Morcheka, free routes and controversy
Russian climber Sergey Nefedov, who in 2010 had freed the 335m route Machombo at 7c+, revisited Morcheka in May and free-climbed ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Parandas, north face, new route
Mt. Parandas (4,250m) has an 800m north wall with lots of overhangs but also decent ledges, so one can climb ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Peak Korzhenevskaya (7,105m), traverse via new route up west ridge
Today there are at least 17 unique routes to the summit of Korzhenevskaya. Fourteen of them start from the Moskvin Glacier, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Gissar Range, Soming Valley, various ascents
In September we made a four-day trip to Soming Valley in the central Gissar Range, just south of Iskanderkul Lake. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Churen Himal West (7,371m), southwest face to southeast ridge, attempt
` The high and remote massif of Churen Himal has three summits: Churen Himal West, Central, and East. All are given ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Himjung (7,092m)
Himjung (7,092m). Koreans Ahn Chi-young and Kim Chang-ho made the first ascent, via the southwest face, of one of the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Simnang Himal (6,251m), south-southeast face
On October 23 Sergey Bublik and Mykola (Nicolay) Shymko made the first ascent of Simnang Himal via an alpine-style climb directly ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Pt. 5,766m, west face and north ridge; Langmoche Ri (6,552m), northwest ridge
In November, Tino Villanueva and I (USA) spent the month making seven first ascents in Rolwaling. Five of these were ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Lunag Group; Peak 5,777m, Awesome Show, Great Job!; Peak 5,855m, north face couloir, second ascent; Peak 6,478m, northeast face, attempt
Chris Wright and I read about the Lunag Massif in a feature article by Joe Puryear in AAJ 2010. Thanks to ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Kyashar (6,770m), south pillar, Nima Line
In November Tatsuya Aoki, Yasuhiro Hanatani, and Hiroyoshi Manome made the long-awaited first ascent of the south pillar of Kyashar (...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Kyashar (6,770m), south pillar, attempt
In October 2011 Chamonix guides Mathieu Détrie, Pierre Labbre, and Jérôme Para made a spirited attempt on the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Various ascents
While there is no suggestion that the following routes are new, they are previously unrecorded, and took place during the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Peak 41 (6,648m), north face, attempt
In October Jack Geldard and I made an unsuccessful attempt on the north face of Peak 41, a steep snow, ice, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Hunku (6,119m), possible first ascent; Chamlang (7,321m), north face, attempt
Post-monsoon in Nepal was frustrating, to say the least, with five weeks of the most stable weather that Nick Bullock ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Chago Ridge, south-north traverse
From May 5-7, 2011, during an acclimatization phase as members of a mostly Slovenian expedition attempting Makalu, Steve House and Marko ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Janak (7,040m), west face
Young Slovenians Nejc Marcic and Luka Strazar, who received a 2012 Piolet d’Or for their fast and minimalist first ascent ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
South Chulebos Massif, Peak ca 5,861m, ascent and tragedy
On July 9 the internationally recognized Chinese alpinist Yan Dongdong was killed in a crevasse fall in the Central Tien Shan. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Yan Dongdong
Yan Dongdong, one of China’s leading alpinists, died in July in a crevasse fall while descending from a peak ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2013
Keketuohai National Park, new routes and access
In September, Garrett Bradley, Andrew Hedesh, Aleksandra (Ola) Przybysz, Torsten Treufeld, Li Yuanliang, and I traveled to Keketuohai (local name ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Gangga and Kawarori massifs, reconnaissance
With the political situation sensitive and uncertain in East Tibet, my preferred field of research, I organized a survey team ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Cerro Meliquina, Southwest Face
I had been eyeing a line on the southwest face of Cerro Meliquina (2,602m) since my 2011 trip to the peak ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Summary, Various Routes
Summary, various routes. It’s likely that more meters of new routes were opened in the 2012–13 climbing season than any ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Pared del Tiempo, The Coriolis Effect
The sensation of being a climber and walking into Cochamó Valley for the first time—especially after six months of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
El Monstruo, La Presencia de mi Padre
I felt an instant attraction to El Monstruo when I saw one of the few existing pictures of the biggest, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Pared La Paz, A Poto Pelao Po
The initial project for Cyril Mokobodzki, Polo Barneoud, Nicolas Rotureau, and I (all from France) was to open a new 1,000...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Anfiteatro, New Routes
In February 2013, after six sunny weeks of climbing in Cochamó, May Martin, Tyler Gagne, and I finished our trip by ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Pared del Tiempo, The Doppler Effect
In mid-January 2013, I arrived in Cochamó without sleep (lost on a bus), a partner (summiting Fitz Roy), or a plan ( ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Colmillo Este, Colmillo del Diablo
The first weekend of November, Ulises Espinosa and I, members of the Perros Alpinos Mountain Group, went to Cajon de ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Cajon del Estero Aucayes, Cinco Mil, New Route Potential
In December I traveled to the Cajon del Estero Aucayes, using horse support to reach a base camp at ca 2,500...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Cerro Panamericano
In April, the Perros Alpinos mountain group traveled to the Nieves Negras, located near the border of Chile and Argentina ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Punton Amarillo
In November, Chilean climbers Alvaro Vivanco, Juanita Guerra, and I, along with the German climber Max Beckmann, traveled to the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Monte Giordano, West Ridge, Shark’s Fin Ridge
In April 2012, Jorg Heller, Robert Jasper, and I climbed the west ridge of Monte Giordano in Tierra del Fuego’s ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Cerro Castillo, Torreón Chala (North Tower)
Cerro Castillo is a rocky massif located outside of Aysén, Chile. It contains a central tower surrounded by various ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Summary, Other Ascents
In January 2013, Steve Schneider climbed the South Tower with Ivo Kusanovic and Schneider’s wife, Heather Baer. Kusanovic was the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013