American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

426 Records

Title Publication Year
Big Kangaroo, south face, Walkabout
In winter of 2004, the Big Kangaroo wall was burned into my memory. The golden, sheer, 850’ face is not like any ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Big Kangaroo, south face, Skinny Start; Going Down Under
On July 27, Mike Pond and Matt VanBein climbed a three-pitch variation 30m right of the Kearney-Thomas route, which they called ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Aasgard Sentinel, The Valkyrie
The granite walls and peaks of the Stuart Range have seen prodigious new route activity in the last few years, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Colchuck Balanced Rock, west face, first winter ascent
In late January 2012, Nathan Farr and I likely made the first winter ascent of the west face (300m, 5.11+) of Colchuck ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Colchuck Balanced Rock, Accendo Lunae, new variation
Scott Bennett, Graham Zimmerman, and I climbed a new variation on Colchuck Balanced Rock (8,200’), which connects the start and crux ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Half Moon, northwest face, Butter Face
In July I returned to the Half Moon massif (located near the Liberty Bell group and Washington Pass) with Tino ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Mt. Kinabalu, Extremely Difficult Sport Climbs at Altitude
In the winter of 2011, Yuji Hirayama sat down with James Pearson and me at our annual meeting at the North ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Central and Southwest Tibet, Various Ascents
In the course of geological field research on the India- Asia collision zone, members of our University of Arizona Geosciences ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
First Ascents of Mirror Wall, Cockpit, and El Güpfi
From mid-July to mid-August, Basil Jacksch, Christian Ledergerber, Vera Reist, and I from Switzerland visited southeast Renland, establishing four long, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Renland, Various Ascents
Inspired by our three-week honeymoon in Liverpool Land one year previous (see report here ), my wife, Betsy Winston, and I ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Recent access developments; Milne Land, exploration and several non- technical ascents
Ever conscious of escalating air charter costs in accessing the mountains of East Greenland, the experienced operator Tangent Expeditions has ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Milne Land, Probable First and Second Ascents
During 14 days in August, Line Veenstra and I climbed a number of peaks in northeast Milne Land. We accessed the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Five First Ascents
After climbing the standard route from the east on Greenland's highest mountain, Gunnbjornsfjeld (3,693m), Carlos Calderas, Carlos Castillo, Marco Cayuso, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Paredão Enamorados, New Routes
Karina Filgueiras and Bito Meyer opened three new routes on the Paredão Enamorados wall, near Agulhas Negras in the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Ritacuba Blanco, east face, Ocho Amaneceres
In January 2013, Marco Jubes, Dani Moreno, and I managed to put up a new line on Ritacuba Blanco (5,350...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Nevado Carhuachuco, New Route
Nevado Carhuachuco, new route. On November 10, during a guide course by the Mountain Guides Association of Peru (AGMP), aspirant guide ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Cerro Caja Real, South Ridge
Robert Middleton and Hannah Moulton climbed what are believed to be two new, or newly reported routes on Cerro Caja ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Puscanturpa Este, Poco Loco
Inspired by Pavle Kozjek’s climb Stonehenge on the northeast buttress in 2007 [ AAJ 2008 ], we were eager to climb a new ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Nocarane Volcano, Southwest Face, New Routes
Nocarane Volcano (5,787m) is located on Reserva Nacional Salinas y Aguada Blanca, close to Arequipa. Beginning in May 2012, Xavier Ossola ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Urus Este, south ridge; Huamashraju, west face; Pisco, Miss You Baby; various ascents
In June 2012, Michael Wejchert and Erik Eisle (U.S.) made an ascent of the rocky south ridge of Urus Este (5,420...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Coropuna Central II (6,161m), first ascent; Corupuna, history
In June, a group of Spanish mountaineers, Jorge Perez, Eduardo Ruiz, and Jose Martinez, climbed a new route up one ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Huandoy Este, Northwest Face
While climbing La Esfinge in the Paron Valley in 2011, the Ecuadorian climber Joshua Jarràn (IFMGA) took interest in the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Jirishanca, east face to east buttress, attempt
On May 27, 2012, German climbers Michi Wohlleben, Johannes Arne, Bergau Jahn, and photographer Hans Hornberger traveled to Lima to attempt Jirishanca (6,094...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Nevado Chicón, northeast summit (5,495m); unnamed summit (5,024m); new route potential
On March 24, Peruvian climber Jorge “Coqui” Gálvez, who had made two previous attempts on the southeast face of Nevado ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Palcaraju Oeste, south face, new route and tragedy
In June 2012, Asa Firestone and Gil Weiss traveled to the Cordillera Blanca. During a day trip to scope out conditions ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Geyikbayiri, Geyik Sivrisi, Crazy Eye
The Geyikbayiri area is popular for sport climbing, but when Michael Pearson and I traveled there in July we had ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Pisco, south face, new route
Florian Burg­er (Austria) and I left Huaraz on August 18 with a plan to climb the west face of Yerupaja ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Bisotoon, overview, and 2012 International Meet
The second International Rock Climbing Festival, organized by the Iranian Mountain Federation and Iranian Alpine Club, took place in mid- ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Pumahuacanca, northeast face
. I left Huaraz on October 14 with aspirant guide Yonny Rosales to teach a guiding course. Our itinerary included Shacsha, Huruashraju, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Bisotoon, various routes
In January 2013, Miquel Sanchez, Alfons Valls, and I climbed a possible new route on Bisotoon. Along with Joan Sole? and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Acopan Tepui, In Gold Blood
Pat Goodman, José Miranda, and I first attempted this line in February 2012 with a Jonny Copp Foundation Grant, completing four ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Western Hajar, Jabal Kawr, Jabal Murri, Jabal Nakhus, various routes
During December 2012 and January 2013, I made my fifth climbing visit to Oman’s Western Hajar mountains, this time with Dave ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Acopan Tepui, Miss Acopan
In December 2011, Andrej Grmovsek, Tanja Grmovek, Matic Obid, and I were sitting in the first row of a chilled out ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Murmansk, Khibini Mountains, Vudyavr mixed routes
Sergey Nefedov, Alexey Romanov, and Max Sotnik explored the winter climbing potential of Khibini in the Murmansk region, just east ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Franz Josef Land, exploration
After eight years of research, I obtained permission to go to Franz Josef Land, a 192-island Arctic archipelago, on my ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Kara-kaya Main (3,646m), new route in winter
Alexander Lavrinenko and Taras Tsushko (Ukraine) added a route to the ca 750m limestone wall north of Bezengi, climbing as ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Morcheka, free routes and controversy
Russian climber Sergey Nefedov, who in 2010 had freed the 335m route Machombo at 7c+, revisited Morcheka in May and free-climbed ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Parandas, north face, new route
Mt. Parandas (4,250m) has an 800m north wall with lots of overhangs but also decent ledges, so one can climb ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Peak Korzhenevskaya (7,105m), traverse via new route up west ridge
Today there are at least 17 unique routes to the summit of Korzhenevskaya. Fourteen of them start from the Moskvin Glacier, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Gissar Range, Soming Valley, various ascents
In September we made a four-day trip to Soming Valley in the central Gissar Range, just south of Iskanderkul Lake. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Churen Himal West (7,371m), southwest face to southeast ridge, attempt
` The high and remote massif of Churen Himal has three summits: Churen Himal West, Central, and East. All are given ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Himjung (7,092m)
Himjung (7,092m). Koreans Ahn Chi-young and Kim Chang-ho made the first ascent, via the southwest face, of one of the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Simnang Himal (6,251m), south-southeast face
On October 23 Sergey Bublik and Mykola (Nicolay) Shymko made the first ascent of Simnang Himal via an alpine-style climb directly ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Pt. 5,766m, west face and north ridge; Langmoche Ri (6,552m), northwest ridge
In November, Tino Villanueva and I (USA) spent the month making seven first ascents in Rolwaling. Five of these were ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Lunag Group; Peak 5,777m, Awesome Show, Great Job!; Peak 5,855m, north face couloir, second ascent; Peak 6,478m, northeast face, attempt
Chris Wright and I read about the Lunag Massif in a feature article by Joe Puryear in AAJ 2010. Thanks to ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Kyashar (6,770m), south pillar, Nima Line
In November Tatsuya Aoki, Yasuhiro Hanatani, and Hiroyoshi Manome made the long-awaited first ascent of the south pillar of Kyashar (...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Kyashar (6,770m), south pillar, attempt
In October 2011 Chamonix guides Mathieu Détrie, Pierre Labbre, and Jérôme Para made a spirited attempt on the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Various ascents
While there is no suggestion that the following routes are new, they are previously unrecorded, and took place during the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Peak 41 (6,648m), north face, attempt
In October Jack Geldard and I made an unsuccessful attempt on the north face of Peak 41, a steep snow, ice, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Hunku (6,119m), possible first ascent; Chamlang (7,321m), north face, attempt
Post-monsoon in Nepal was frustrating, to say the least, with five weeks of the most stable weather that Nick Bullock ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013