American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

426 Records

Title Publication Year
Mt. Burkett, northwest face, Can’t Knock the Hustle
On October 5, John Frieh and I met in Seattle and flew to Petersburg, where we spent part of the day ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Maujit Qoqarsassia, Golden Lunacy, repeat; Marluissat Peak, Three Hobbits from the Moon and Snake from Appilatoq.
The Polish Mountaineering Association sent a three-man team to Greenland specifically to repeat the 2007 Kaszlikowski-Kubarska route, Golden Lunacy, on the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Ketil (2,010m), south face, Turbo; Ulamertorssuaq North (1,830m), northwest face, Keep Panic, Please
From June 20 to July 23, Tomas Brt (Czech), Jan Smolen, and I (both Slovak) visited Tasermiut Fjord and enjoyed largely excellent ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Upernavik region, Red Wall of Agparssuit, Flight of the Dodo and Don’t be Gull-able; Impossible Wall, Improbability Drive
After a comparatively benign passage from Scotland to Greenland in my 10m sailing boat, Dodo’s Delight, we made a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Upernavik region, Sarqarssuaq Fjord, Drowning in a Sea of Light
Lee Roberts, Dave Rudkin, and I left the U.K. on July 24. Three days and four plane rides later, we ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Regulations governing nesting seabirds in Greenland
Climbs on certain seacliffs in Greenland, including recent ascents in the Upernavik area of West Greenland, may be off-limits at ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
North Liverpool Land, various ascents
In April, Natasha Sebire and I made the long journey from our homes in Australia to the northernmost part of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Determination
We are running on empty. It is 6:12 p.m., late in the day for Rick Allen and I to be ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2013
Pillar of the Rising Sun
Chamonix, February 2012. We are four climbers living in a two-room apartment: Lise, Jeremy (a.k.a. Djamel), Pedro, and me. ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2013
Ground Up
Day 0. Fall 2010 Most climbers who flip through the Yosemite guidebook give Mother Earth (VI 5.12a A4) only a cursory glance. ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2013
Change
I enjoy climbing as much as anything in the world. I indulge in that beautiful upward movement, feeling the breeze ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2013
Life Essence
The de Havilland DHC-2 Beaver floatplane slowly spiraled downward, aiming for a tiny, emerald-green lake. The contrast between spruce trees ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2013
Himjung Style
Himjung is located north of Annapurna and Manaslu in the Peri Himal range, and is nestled between Himlung Himal and ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2013
Peak 11,720’, second ascent, new route; Celeno Peak, first ascent; Ocypete Peak, second ascent, new route.
In the ’60s and ’70s the Twaharpies in the University Range saw a flurry of activity. Large-scale, well-funded Japanese and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Peak 7,100’, Galvanized; new route potential.
Most of the mountains surrounding Haines are geologically not good to climb without snow on them. However, there are quite ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
White Princess, west face, Maiden Voyage.
On April 22, Chad Diesinger, Kennan Jeannet, and I climbed a new route on White Princess (9,800’). White Princess is located six ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Denali National Park and Preserve summary.
The 2012 climbing season marked the 20,000 th time Denali’s summit was reached. The number of climbers has increased from less ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Eeffoc Java Peak and other summits.
In May, James Kesterson, Paul Muscat, Joe Stock, and Glenn Wilson made first recorded ascents of a few snowy 7,000-8,000’ ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Stikine Icefield, Peak 7,031’, Deepwater Horizon.
During the summer of 2011, Mike Miller, Ben Still, and I set our sights on a remote mountain at the end ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Goodlata Peak, first ascent.
In March, Jay Claus, Ben Gray, Ruedi Homberger, Andrew McLean, and Eli Potter made the first ascent of the prominent ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Heritage Point, new route, B Wright Dak.
In spring 2012, Josh Varney and partners established a new route on the seldom-climbed Heritage Wall, which is reached along the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Horn Spire, various attempts; west ridge, second ascent.
There are certain events in life that provide a reference point to a given time. If you are a climber ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Tatina Spire, Mt. Neveragain, various summits and possible first ascents.
The Equipe Nationale d’Alpinisme Masculine is a group of young climbers selected by the FFME to learn the skills ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Gheralta Massif and Adwa Mountains, new routes
Inspired by previous trips to Ethiopia by climbers such as Pat Littlejohn and Majka Burhardt, Dan Rothberg and I spent ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Gheralta Massif and Samayata, new routes.
In January 2012, the Spanish team of Marco Jubes, Edu Marin, and Toti Vales established two long, difficult free climbs in ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Middle Triple Peak, northwest pillar, Hard Arteries.
It started on a sun-soaked crag near home, when Twid Turner asked, “Dave, do you fancy getting strapped onto a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Mendenhall Towers, West Tower, The Fall Line
In October, during a rare high-pressure system, Gabe Hayden and I managed an interesting new line in the Mendenhall Towers, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Mt. Bradley, The Sum of Its Parts; Heavy Mettle
Silas Rossi and I established two new climbs on Mt. Bradley (9,104’). The first, completed on April 17, was a 49-hour camp-to-camp ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Mt. Dickey, northeast face, No Such Thing as a Bargain Promise
For me, the story of Mt. Dickey started in 2009, when Doug Shepherd took a chance and agreed to a Ruth ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Mt. Hunter, north buttress, Sympathy Variant
Choi Suk-mun, Moon Sung-wook, and I reached the top of Mt. Hunter on May 21 by a variation of Deprivation, the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Mt. Wake, south face, The Cook Inlet
Sometime during the spring of 2012, Jess Roskelley tracked me down through mutual friends and asked what resources I used for ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Mt. Hunter, north buttress, first solo ascent, no summit
In late May, I made the first solo ascent to the top of the Mount Hunter’s north buttress in 15 ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Mt. Steller second ascent, northwest ridge variation
On April 22, Jason Buttrick, Jay Claus, Paul Claus, Ruedi Homberger, and I climbed and skied Mt. Steller (10,515’). This was the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Revelation Mountains, various ascents.
In April our team of Bor Sumrada, Bostjan Virc, Dusan Huc, Grega Azman, Janez Rutar, Matej Pobezin, Urban Iglic, Valentina ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Golgotha, east face; The Angel, south ridge
During late March and early April, Ben Trocki and I established two climbs at the head of the Revelation Glacier—...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Mooses Tooth, east face, Magic Mushrooms; Bear Tooth, east face, Bear Skin.
The French Federation of Alpine Clubs (FFCAM) initiated this expedition as part of a dedicated training program to help young ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Peak 747, Kuriositeten; Americans Go Walking, first ascent
In April, Matt Barela, Mike Pond, and I climbed Kuriositeten (800m, AI5 M3+) on the east face of Peak 747, between ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Mt. Short, Siri’s Peak, Ocean Peak, and other summits, first ascents and new routes
In early June 2012, Sam Thompson (U.K.), Sara Arbos Torrent (Catalan), Arnaud Sors (France), and I traveled to a remote ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Europe and Scandinavia Summary
Europe The following climbs appeared on the “Super Big List” of 2012 ascents prepared for the 2013 Piolets d’Or jury. This ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Perfection Valley, Belly Tower, east face, The Door; White Wall, east face; Mt. Cook, northeast pillar, Levi is Coming
Big-wall climbing on Baffin Island was a personal dream for many, many years—a dream that was always in my ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Mt. Asgard, South Tower, Free Bavarian Direct (The Belgarian), First Free Ascent
A couple of moves, no more than one or two meters. That’s not far. Not nearly as far as ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Mt. Loki, south buttress, first free ascent; Mt. Asgard, south tower, north face, Sensory Overload
On the morning of July 17, Joshua Lavigne, Ines Papert, and I got off the plane in Pangnirtung. Three hours later ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Mt. Thor, southwest face
On July 19, Canadian climbers Bill Borger Jr. and John Furneaux climbed a new free variation on the far right side ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Eastern Fjords, Polar Molar, Bonfire of the Vanities
After a rest and recovery in Upernavik (see Greenland section), we made a four-day crossing to Pond Inlet in Baffin ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Sam Ford Fjord, Polar Sun Spire, north face, Superbalance
In May 2012, Marcin Tomaszewski and I completed a new route on the north face of Polar Sun Spire in Sam ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
Snowpatch Spire, South Howser Tower, North Howser Tower, and other summits, new routes and first free ascents
Jonathan Schaffer and I had an incredible three-week trip to the Bugaboos this past summer. Experienced but young, our plan ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
De l’S, south face, Besos to Pesos; Aguja Bifida, north face, Gunnison Direct
In late January, David Allfrey and I established a new route up the center of the south face of De ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
North Joffre Creek, new routes; Mt. Athelstan, new route; Mt. Rexford, north couloir
Bruce Kay and partners have continued to develop the North Joffre Creek rock in the Mighty Mouse area, on the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
The Blade, IncogNeato; Stiletto Peak, The Canadian Club
On August 6, 2012, Blake Herrington, Scott Bennett, and I flew into the Sunny Knob base camp on the Tiedemann Glacier of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013
South Howser Tower, northwest face, The Wandering Direct
In July, Jean-Pierre Ouellet and Matt McCormick climbed a new route on the northwest face of South Howser Tower. The ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2013