American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

367 Records

Title Publication Year
Hampaturi Group, Serkhe Khollu (5,546m), Southwest Face, Tiers of Pachamama
On September 15 Robert Rauch picked me up in La Paz at 4 a.m. The first crux was driving to the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
South America, Chile, Central Andes, Cajon de Maipo, Various Ascents
The online version of these reports frequently contains additional photos, maps, topos, and extended text. Please visit aaj.americanalpineclub.org ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
South America, Chile, Central Andes, Cerro San Gabriel (3,125m), Northeast Ridge; La Pala (3,647m), East Face; Cerro Bello (5,239m), West Face
Cerro San Gabriel (3,125m), northeast ridge; La Pala (3,647m), east face; Cerro Bello (5,239m), west face. In September Christian Quezada, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
South America, Chile, Northern Patagonia, Cochamo, Cerro Trinidad Central, La ArgenTrinidad
Cerro Trinidad Central, La ArgenTrinidad. In early January 2012 Jose Bonacalza, Sasha Gal, Ezequiel Manoni, Pablo Pontoriero, and I left Bariloche ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
South America, Chile, Northern Patagonia, Cochamo, Cerro Trinidad Central, Las Manos del Dia
Cerro Trinidad Central, Las Manos del Dia. In early January, 2012, with support from the AAC’s Mountaineering Fellowship Award, Chris ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
South America, Chile, Northern Patagonia, Cochamo, Cerro Trinidad Sur, Der Grantler
Cerro Trinidad Sur, Der Grantler. On February 8, 2011, Mario Gilemann and I made the first ascent of Der Grantler on Cerro ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
South America, Chile, Northern Patagonia, Cochamo, Amfiteatro, Cáscara de Hueco, A Través del Huevo
Amfiteatro, Cáscara de Huevo, A Través del Huevo. “So you are back!” Daniel welcomed me with his huge ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
South America, Chile, Northern Patagonia, Cochamo, Atardecer, Al Centro y Adentro
Atardecer, Al Centro y Adentro. In February 2012 North American J.B. Haab and I opened Al Centro y Adentro (12 pitches, 5.11...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
South America, Chile, Northern Patagonia, Cochamo, Upper Paloma Valley, Hasta la Pinky
Upper Paloma Valley, Hasta la Pinky. In the upper Paloma Valley, on February 9,2012, Paul Mangasarian and Eli Simon put up ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
South America, Chile, Región de los Lagos, Serrania Avalancha, Espiadimonis
Serrania Avalancha, Espiadimonis. Serrania Avalancha is a huge, east-facing, granite wall situated eight hours, through the Valdivian forest, west of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
South America, Chile, Asien Region, Cordon Colmillo, Cerro Colmillo (1,896m), Northeast Ridge
Cordon Colmillo, Cerro Colmillo (1,896m), northeast ridge. In February and March 2012 a NOLS semester group traveled north 125km from Laguna ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
South America, Chile, Asien Region, Cordillera Meliquina, Cerro Meliquina (2,602m), Northeast Face
Cordillera Meliquina, Cerro Meliquina (2,602m), northeast face. Our group of eight NOLS instructors left Coihaique on December 24, reached Rio Leones, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
South America, Chile, Southern Patagonia, Cerro Falso Ilse (2,512m GPS)
Cerro Falso Ilse (2,512m GPS). Located on the eastern periphery of the Southern Patagonian Icefield, 3.7 km northwest of Cerro Gorra ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
South America, Chile, Southern Patagonia, Volcán Reclus (1,425m)
Volcán Reclus (1,425m). On April 13, 2008, Natalia Martinez (Argentina) and I established base camp at the head of Amalia Fjord, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
South America, Chile, Torres del Paine, Cerro Paine Grande (3,050m, 2,884m GPS), First Winter Ascent
Cerro Paine Grande (3,050m, 2,884m GPS), first winter ascent. On August 14 María Paz Ibarra (Chile) and I summited Paine ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Monte Buckland (1,746m), Northeast Ridge and Northeast Face; Monte Niebla (1,430m), Northeast Face
On January 29, 2012, Daniel Gross, Markus Kautz, and I reached the mystical and rarely seen summit of Monte Buckland by a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Cordillera Darwin, Cordillera Darwin Traverse
From September 6 to October 5 Lionel Albrieux, Sébastien Bohin, Didier Jourdain, Dimitry Munoz, Sébastien Ratel, and François Savary, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Morro Von Rosen (5,450m), Guanuqueando
Martin Altamirano and Martin Castillo visited the Chani Group in northern Salta during March 2010. They first climbed several short rock ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Cerro Acay (5,716m), Como Ilegar a Rozarte el Alma
In summer Cerro Acay, southeast of San Antonio de los Cobres, in the province of Salta, is generally a barren ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
South America, Argentina, Northern Andes, Puna de Atacama, Cordon de los Pioneros, Pico Bicentenario (6,092m)
Cordon de los Pioneros, Pico Bicentenario (6,092m). In November 2010 Guillermo Almaraz, Lelio de Crocci, Eduardo Namur, Juan Labra, Daniel Pontin, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
South America, Argentina, Northern Andes, Puna de Atacama, Cordon de los Pioneros, Various Ascents
Cordon de los Pioneros, various ascents. In December our group climbed previously virgin summits in this range, south of Pico ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Cerro Mercedario (6,770m), East Face, A Contramano
During November 2010 Fernando Daneri (Argentina) and Edgardo Liberman (Panamá, but resident in Buenos Aires) climbed a new route, A Contramano (1,300...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Pico Polaco (Cerro de los Polacos, ca 6,000m), Southeast Face, Acecho Felino
While the highest peak in the Ramada is Mercedario, the most attractive is Polaco, immediately south. In January Javier Giuliani, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
South America, Argentina, Central Andes, Aconcagua, South Face, Alpine-style Ascent of French Direct, with Variation
Aconcagua, south face, alpine-style ascent of French Direct, with variation. December 20 Andres Zegers (Chile) and I are at the Plaza ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Cordon del Plata, Cerro Vallecitos (5,475m), East Face, De Paso…Canazo
On September 23 Luciano Fiorenza and Pablo Pontoriero (Argentina) opened an important new route on the impressive east face of Cerro ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Cerro Plata (5,968m), East Face, Falto la Gorda
Cerro Plata is the highest summit of the Cordon del Plata and for a long time was considered to be ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Cerro Manantiales (5,100m), South Face, Direct a la Cubetera
In Mendoza’s Tunuyán region, Diego Molina and Fernando Martinez made an interesting exploration on the south west face ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
South America, Argentina, Central Andes, Various volcanoes, nontechnical ascents
Various volcanoes, nontechnical ascents. Shortly after the New Year Jonathan Kreiss-Tomkins (U.S.) and partner made the first ascent of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
South America, Argentina, Southern Patagonia, Sierra de Sangra, Cerro Cocoví (2,155m), North Flank
Sierra de Sangra, Cerro Cocoví (2,155m), north flank. The Sierra de Sangra includes an icefield of ca 100km2, east of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Various Routes
Apart from ascents reported in detail below, two new routes were climbed on the south face of Aguja De l’...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
South America, Argentina, Southern Patagonia, Chalten Massif, Aguja Standhardt (2,730m), South Face, First Complete Ascent via El Caracol; Other Ascents
Aguja Standhardt (2,730m), south face, first complete ascent via El Caracol; other ascents. In 1977, when Aguja Standhardt was the most ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
South America, Argentina, Southern Patagonia, Chalten Massif, Torre Egger (2,850m), West Face, Attempt
Torre Egger (2,850m), west face, attempt. In December 2011 and January 2012 Matteo Bernasconi and Matteo della Bordella made attempts to climb ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Torre Egger (2,850m), South Face, Venas Azules
Norwegians Bjorn-Eivind Aartun and Ole Lied climbed a spectacular ice route on the left side of the steep south face ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
South America, Argentina, Southern Patagonia, Chalten Massif, Cordon Adel–Cerro Torre Traverse
Cordon Adela-Cerro Torre traverse. In a seven-day roundtrip from Chalten during January 2012, Agustin and Juan Raselli and I made a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
South America, Argentina, Southern Patagonia, Chalten Massif, Aguja Guillaumet (2,579m), West Face, Patagonian Werewolfs
Aguja Guillaumet (2,579m), west face, Patagonian Werewolfs. Back in Chalten, after all my compatriots from Poincenot had left, I befriended ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
South America, Argentina, Southern Patagonia, Chalten Massif, Aguja Guillaumet (2,579m), West Face, Manos al Cielo
Aguja Guillaumet (2,579m), west face, Manos al Cielo. My friend Cheyne Lempe had never been to Patagonia. He’d never ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
South America, Argentina, Southern Patagonia, Chalten Massif, Aguja Val Biois, Mi Mundo de Contradicciones; Fitz Roy (3,405m), Pilar Goretta, Crux del Sur; Aguja de la Silla (2,938m), Destreza Criolla
Aguja Val Biois, Mi Mundo de Contradicciones; Fitz Roy (3,405m), Pilar Goretta, Crux del Sur; Aguja de la Silla (2,938m), ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Mermoz (2,723m) Northwest Ridge, to Fitz Roy (3,405m), North Pillar, Link-up
I opened my eyes to see the wall above us glowing in frozen predawn. Cheyne and I had laid down ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
South America, Argentina, Southern Patagonia, Chalten Massif, Poincenot, Southwest Face, Rise of the Machines
Poincenot, southwest face, Rise of the Machines. Over the years Jens Holsten, Mikey Schaefer, and I spent hours studying a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
South America, Argentina, Southern Patagonia, Chalten Massif, Aguja Poincenot (3,002m), Southeast Face, Via Russo
Aguja Poincenot (3,002m), southeast face, Via Russo. In 2011 Sergey Dashkevitch (29), Arkadiy Seregin (52), and I (45) attempted a new route on the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Antarctica, Ellsworth Mountains, Sentinel Range, Vinson Massif, Summary
The online version of these reports frequently contains additional photos, maps, topos, and extended text. Please visit aaj.americanalpineclub.org ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Antarctica, Heritage Range, Mt. Spörli (2,253m), Northeast Face
Mt. Spörli (2,253m), northeast face. Climbers were again active among the small peaks around Union Glacier, due to ALE’...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Antarctica, Antarctic Peninsula, Amundsen Peak; Island Traverses; Mt. Rendu
Amundsen Peak; island traverses; Mt Rendu. To commemorate Roald Amundsen’s team reaching the South Pole on December 14,1911, the Spirit ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Cierva Cove, Various Ascents
During previous trips to the Peninsula I had noticed a number of steep and distinct mountains east of Cierva Cove, 80...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Antarctica, Queen Maud Land, Overview
Overview. Experienced Antarctic climber Patrick Degerman made his second visit to the area, climbing several minor peaks in the Wohlthat ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Antarctica, Executive Committee Range, Mount Sidley (4,285m), Fifth Ascent and Correction
Mount Sidley (4,285m), fifth ascent and correction. The highest peak in the range got its fifth ascent, by veteran guide ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Antarctica, Bouvetoya, Olatoppen (774m), First True Ascent
Olavtoppen (774m), first true ascent. The sub-Antarctic island of Bouvetoya is the most isolated piece of land on the planet, 1,740...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Nordenskjold
Richard Spillett and I left the Falkland Islands in mid-November aboard Skip Novak’s vessel Pelagic Australis, which was to ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Alam Kuh (4,805m) and Damavand (5,610m), AAC Exchange
On June 5, 13 Americans, forming the second part of an exchange between the AAC and the Alpine Club of Iran (ACI), ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Toubkal Region, Afella (4,105m), Southeast Face, Fountain Gully
On January 3 James Mehigan, Olly Metherell, and Andrew Stokes-Rees made the first ascent of Fountain Gully on Afella in the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012