American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

367 Records

Title Publication Year
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park, Denali National Park and Preserve Summary
Denali National Park and Preserve summary. Sadly, nine climbers died in the Alaska Range during 2011, making it the third deadliest ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Denali, Lower Southwest Face, Dad and Son
My 23-year-old son Denali felt compelled to climb his namesake. While he was studying in San Francisco, he told me ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park, West Kahiltna Peak (3,914m/12,835'), West Ridge
West Kahiltna Peak (3,914m/12,835'), west ridge. West Kahiltna Peak is just off of the Kahiltna Glacier, and every West ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Mt. Hunter, North Buttress to Cornice Bivouac, the Cartwright Connection
Unrelenting spindrift avalanches and gusty winds blasted and buffeted the portaledge. Our small cocoon of safety on this harsh mountain ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Voyager Peak (12,213'), South Face, To the Center
In the first week of May, Mark Allen and I set up base camp at Kahiltna International, then headed off ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park, Ruth Gorge, Barrill (2,332m/7,650'), Northeast Face, Alaskan Primer
Ruth Gorge, Barrill (2,332m/7,650'), northeast face, Alaskan Primer. On May 13 Ben Gilmore and Hans Johnstone climbed a new route ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
North America, United States, Alaska, Revelation Mountains, Mt. Mausolus (9,170'), First Ascent
Mt. Mausolus (9,170'), first ascent. From March 15 to 17 Clint Helander and Scotty Vincik made the first ascent of Mt. Mausolus. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Mystery Mountain, Northeast Ridge, Where's the Gas; Dog Tooth
On May 26 Ben Chriswell, Sam Johnson, and I flew to the Pitchfork Glacier. The Neacolas are a largely unexplored group ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Mt. Yukla (2,297m/7,535'), North Face, No Call, No Show
In October John Kelley and I headed back to Mt. Yukla to climb the North Couloir and check out an ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Mt. Yukla (2,297m/7,535'), North Face, Most People Are DJs
On October 10 local Anchorage climber John Kelley and I walked to the north face of Mt. Yukla, via Icicle Creek, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
North America, United States, Alaska, St. Elias Mountains, University Peak (14,470'), Southwest Spur
University Peak (14,470'), southwest spur. Kevin Ditzler and John Kelley climbed this 8,500' route in seven days, summiting on April 17. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Mt. Orville (10,495'), north ridge, attempt; Peak 7,400+', northwest ridge, attempt
In April 2011 I returned for a second visit to the Johns Hopkins glacier basin in the southern part of the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Burkett Needle (2,590m/8,500'), East Arête, Repeat Offender
On September 9 John Frieh, Zac West, and I flew to the Burkett Glacier in the heart of the Stikine Icecap. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Traverse of Juneau Icefield, Possible First Ascents, and Ski Descents
In April Alex Appelby, Ben Bizwell, Tom Francis, and I arrived in Haines to ski-traverse the Juneau Icefield, while making ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Juneau Icefield, Taku D Peak (1,771m/5,810'), Southeast Face, Epic
Some of the remotest and wildest summits on earth are located in Alaska, and climbing them is a great adventure. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Stairway Glacier, Peak 3,450m, South-Southeast Face and Southwest Ridge
Jonathan Wakefield and I arrived at Kluane Lake on May 16 and were able to fly within one and a half ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Southern Coast Mountains and Canadian Cascades
The number of new routes reported in southwestern British Columbia has been declining since surging around 2002-2004. There are probably ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Uummannaq and Upernavik Regions First Ascents
Following our successful campaign in 2010, we returned in July 2011, with a strong group mainly of Italian guides, to blitz the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Saven Range, First Ascents
In May Geoff Bonney, Sandy Gregson, and I, veterans of many Greenland expeditions, were joined in the Saven Range by ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Renland, Shark's Tooth (1,555m), Dance on Tiptoes
On April 16 Mikhail Mikhailov and I arrived at Constable Pynt in poor weather after a flight from Reykjavik. The same ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Watkins Mountains, Mt. Augustine Courtauld (ca 3,150m)
In the second half of May, a Tangent expedition led by Ian Barker and Mark Basey-Fisher (U.K.), with Warren ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Tasermiut Fjord, Hermelndal, Tininnertuup II (1,511m), East Face Attempt
Our plan was to open a new rock route in Greenland, as part of my seven big walls on seven ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
North America, Greenland, South Greenland — Cape Farewell Region, Quvnerit Island, Various Ascents
Quvnerit Island, various ascents. This was my third trip to Greenland. In 2001, with Gabor Berecz, Gunter Dengler, and Thomas Tivadar, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Ritacuba Blanco, South Pillar (not to summit)
[ Editor's Note and Correction: The Lopez-Pfaff Direct route described below is in fact not on Ritacuba Blanco proper; rather, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Amuri Tepui, South Face, Kids with Guns
Over 15 days during February 2012, Mason Earle (U.S.), Sam Farnsworth (U.K.), Siebe Vanhee (Belgium), and I weaved an improbable, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Amuri Tepui, South Face, Maria Rosa and Apichavai
In March 2012, when Stephane Hanssens, Sean Villanueva, Jean-Louis Wertz, and I emerged from the jungle and saw the wall, it ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
South America, Venezuela, Upigma Tepui (2,200m), South Face, The Hospital Breakout
Upigma Tepui (2,200m), south face, The Hospital Breakout. The Gran Sabana holds some of the world’s most majestic big ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Nevado Santa Cruz (6,359m), East Ridge, Attempt; Santa Cruz Chico (5,800m), East Face
Italians Fabrizio Manoni, Enrico Rosso, and Paolo Stoppini attempted the long, unclimbed east ridge of Nevado Santa Cruz, which begins ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Chacraraju Este (6,001m), Northeast Ridge, Direct Finish; Taulliraju (5,830m), Southwest Face, Attempt
On June 22 Oriol Baro and Jordi Corominas from Spain reached the summit of Chacraraju Este, having completed a direct finish ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Cashan West (5,686m Peru IGM), North Ridge, Not to Summit
On July 25 Carlos Cabaza (Spain) and Diego Fernández (Peru) climbed the rocky north ridge of unfrequented Cashan West as ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Nevado Tunshu South (5,560m), Southeast Face, Chinita
Aspirant mountain guide Rolando Morales and ULAGM guide Beto Pinto, who has put up 20 new routes in the Cordillera Central, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Huarancayo Sur (ca 5,200m), South Face, Boys Don't Cry
The Cordillera Oriental has been explored during the last decade by Tony Barton and various partners. It was reading about ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Chichicapac (5,613m), South Face
After four days acclimatizing in Puno, Hamish Dunn and I arrived in Macusani (4,300m), the nearest town to the southern ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Huancasayani Valley, Various Ascents
In July the second expedition of the Polish Apolobamba Exploration Project visited the Huancasayani Valley. The first, in 2009, reported in ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Cordillera Real, Overview and Recent New Routes
In recent years little mountaineering information has come out of Bolivia. This may partly be due to there currently being ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Piramide Blanca (5,230m), Southwest Face Direct
In a snowstorm at the start of the rainy season, Robert Rauch and Eduardo Unzueta (Bolivia) and I (U.S.) ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Cordillera Real, Various Ascents
In August 2009 Andy Baker, Jack Grinsted, and I climbed the obvious left-trending couloir on the southeast face of Maria Lloco (5,523...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
South America, Bolivia, Cordillera Real, Huayna Potosi (6,088m), East Face, Summit or Die
Huayna Potosi (6,088m), east face, Summit or Die. Coming up the road from tropical, mosquito-infested Zongo Valley, I saw the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Serkhe Khollu (5,546m), Southwest Face, La Venganza del Don Gringo
The rainy season ended at the end of May, and I’ve returned to the Hampaturi. I pitch the tent ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
South America, Bolivia, Cordillera Real, Hampaturi Group, Serkhe Khollu (5,546m), Southwest Face, The Birthday of the Broken Leg
Hampaturi Group, Serkhe Khollu (5,546m), southwest face, The Birthday of the Broken Leg. Frozen gusts of thin air painfully escaping ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Hampaturi Group, Serkhe Khollu (5,546m), Southwest Face, Tiers of Pachamama
On September 15 Robert Rauch picked me up in La Paz at 4 a.m. The first crux was driving to the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
South America, Chile, Central Andes, Cajon de Maipo, Various Ascents
The online version of these reports frequently contains additional photos, maps, topos, and extended text. Please visit aaj.americanalpineclub.org ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
South America, Chile, Central Andes, Cerro San Gabriel (3,125m), Northeast Ridge; La Pala (3,647m), East Face; Cerro Bello (5,239m), West Face
Cerro San Gabriel (3,125m), northeast ridge; La Pala (3,647m), east face; Cerro Bello (5,239m), west face. In September Christian Quezada, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
South America, Chile, Northern Patagonia, Cochamo, Cerro Trinidad Central, La ArgenTrinidad
Cerro Trinidad Central, La ArgenTrinidad. In early January 2012 Jose Bonacalza, Sasha Gal, Ezequiel Manoni, Pablo Pontoriero, and I left Bariloche ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
South America, Chile, Northern Patagonia, Cochamo, Cerro Trinidad Central, Las Manos del Dia
Cerro Trinidad Central, Las Manos del Dia. In early January, 2012, with support from the AAC’s Mountaineering Fellowship Award, Chris ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
South America, Chile, Northern Patagonia, Cochamo, Cerro Trinidad Sur, Der Grantler
Cerro Trinidad Sur, Der Grantler. On February 8, 2011, Mario Gilemann and I made the first ascent of Der Grantler on Cerro ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
South America, Chile, Northern Patagonia, Cochamo, Amfiteatro, Cáscara de Hueco, A Través del Huevo
Amfiteatro, Cáscara de Huevo, A Través del Huevo. “So you are back!” Daniel welcomed me with his huge ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
South America, Chile, Northern Patagonia, Cochamo, Atardecer, Al Centro y Adentro
Atardecer, Al Centro y Adentro. In February 2012 North American J.B. Haab and I opened Al Centro y Adentro (12 pitches, 5.11...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
South America, Chile, Northern Patagonia, Cochamo, Upper Paloma Valley, Hasta la Pinky
Upper Paloma Valley, Hasta la Pinky. In the upper Paloma Valley, on February 9,2012, Paul Mangasarian and Eli Simon put up ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
South America, Chile, Región de los Lagos, Serrania Avalancha, Espiadimonis
Serrania Avalancha, Espiadimonis. Serrania Avalancha is a huge, east-facing, granite wall situated eight hours, through the Valdivian forest, west of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012