American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

367 Records

Title Publication Year
Fall on Rock — Poor Communication, Texas, Enchanted Rock State Natural Area
FALL ON ROCK – POOR COMMUNICATION Texas, Enchanted Rock State Natural Area On Saturday, April 16, several groups of climbers were climbing ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2012
Snakebite
JB (44) was bitten by a Copperhead snake on May 27 at the Bird’s Nest area of Great Falls Park. I (...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2012
Fall on Rock, Poor Communication, Virginia, Shenandoah National Park, Old Rag Mountain
FALL ON ROCK, POOR COMMUNICATION Virginia, Shenandoah National Park, Old Rag Mountain Late on Sunday afternoon June 5, Old Rag Mountain ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2012
Fall on Rock, Anchor Failure — Unfinished Knot, Virginia, Blue Ridge Parkway, Ravens Roost
FALL ON ROCK, ANCHOR FAILURE – UNFINISHED KNOT Virginia, Blue Ridge Parkway, Ravens Roost, During the mid-afternoon on June 15, Jonathan Sullivan (20) ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2012
Fall into Cravasse, Climbing Unroped, Unafmiliar with Route, Party Separated, Inexperience, Washington, Mount Rainier, Fuerer Finger
On the morning of May 10, four climbers (ages 23–34) left their camp on the Wilson Glacier at approximately 02:45 to climb ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2012
Exhaustion — Possible AMS or HACE, Fall on Ice/Snow, Weather, Washington, Mount Rainier, Liberty Ridge
EXHAUSTION – POSSIBLE AMS OR HACE, FALL ON ICE/SNOW, WEATHER Washington, Mount Rainier, Liberty Ridge On June 12, Rob Plankers (50), Brad ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2012
Loss of Control on Glissade — Fall into Crevasse/Moat, Poor Visibility, Misperception, No Hard Hat, Washington, Mount Baker
LOSS OF CONTROL ON GLISSADE – FALL INTO CREVASSE/MOAT, POOR VISIBILITY, MISPERCEPTION, NO HARD HAT Washington, Mount Baker On July 2, ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2012
Loss of Control on Glissade — Fall into Crevasse/Moat, Inexperience, Washington, North Cascades, Aasgard Pass
LOSS OF CONTROL ON GLISSADE – FALL INTO CREVASSE/MOAT, INEXPERIENCE Washington, North Cascades, Aasgard Pass On July 3 about 0:30 a.m., ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2012
Illness and Frostbite (Two Incidents), Washington, Mount Rainier
ILLNESS AND FROSTBITE (TWO INCIDENTS) Washington, Mount Rainier While on a summit climb on the morning of July 13 about 9:00 a....
ANAM
Accident Reports
2012
Fall on Snow — Loss of Control on Voluntary Glissade, Inadequate Clothing and Equipment, Washington, Mount Rainier, Near Camp Muir
FALL ON SNOW – LOSS OF CONTROL ON VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, INADEQUATE CLOTHING AND EQUIPMENT Washington, Mount Rainier, Near Camp Muir On ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2012
Fall on Rock — Rappel Error, Fatigue, Possible Haste, Washington, Beacon Rock State Park
FALL ON ROCK – RAPPEL ERROR, FATIGUE, POSSIBLE HASTE Washington, Beacon Rocks State Park On July 24, Nathan Turner (30) and his partner ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2012
Fall on Rock — Overconfidence on Fourth-Class Terrain, Washington, North Cascades, Washington Pass
FALL ON ROCK – OVERCONFIDENCE ON FOURTH-CLASS TERRAIN Washington, North Cascades, Washington Pass The plan of the day (August 13) was to ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2012
Falling Rock — Triggered by Party Above, Poor Position, Washington, North Cascades, Forbidden Peak, West Ridge
FALLING ROCK – TRIGGERED BY PARTY ABOVE, POOR POSITION Washington, North Cascades, Forbidden Peak, West Ridge About 6:30 pm. on August 18, Jay ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2012
Pulled Off a Loose Block — Fall on Rock, Washington, Mount Stuart
PULLED OFF A LOOSE BLOCK – FALL ON ROCK Washington, Mount Stuart I was climbing the West Ridge of Mount Stuart ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2012
Fall on Rock, No Hard Hat, West Virginia, New River Gorge National River
FALL ON ROCK, NO HARD HAT West Virginia, New River Gorge National River On June 5th, a male climber (22) was ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2012
Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled Out, West Virginia, New River Gorge National River
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT West Virginia, New River Gorge National River During the evening of June 13, a female (25) ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2012
Protection Bolt Pulled Out, West Virginia, Meadow River
PROTECTION BOLT PULLED OUT West Virginia, Meadow River Late in the day on June 23, a bolt pulled out while a ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2012
Intoxication — Fall on Rock, Free Solo Climbing, West Virginia, New River Gorge National River
INTOXICATION – FALL ON ROCK, FREE SOLO CLIMBING West Virginia, New River Gorge National River In early July about 11:45 a.m., ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2012
Avalanche, Poor Position, Weather, Inexperience, Wyoming, Cody South Fork, Deer Creek
AVALANCHE, POOR POSITION, WEATHER, INEXPERIENCE Wyoming, Cody South Fork, Deer Creek On January 28, we were halfway down a steep 400-foot ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2012
Avalanche, Poor Position, Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Meadows of Garnet Canyon
AVALANCHE, POOR POSITION Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Meadows of Garnet Canyon On April 18, Grand Teton National Park received a ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2012
Fall on Snow/Ice, Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Teewinot
FALL ON SNOW/ICE Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Teewinot On June 4 about 0830, Jesse Stover (39) slipped and fell about 2,000 feet ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2012
Fall on Rock, Rope Jammed — So Slack in Rope, Failure to Follow Instructions, Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Guides Wall
FALL ON ROCK, ROPE JAMMED – SO SLACK IN ROPE, FAILURE TO FOLLOW INSTRUCTIONS Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Guides Wall ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2012
Fall on Snow — Ski Mountaineering, Unable to Self-Arrest, Wyoming, Middle Teton, Ellingwood Couloir
FALL ON SNOW – SKI MOUNTAINEERING, UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST Wyoming, Middle Teton, Ellingwood Couloir At 0140 July 2, Ryan Redmond (32), Ben Johnson, Rob ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2012
Off Route, Fall on Snow/Ice — Unable to Self-Arrest Faulty Use of Crampons, No Hard Hat, Inexperience, Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Middle Teton
OFF ROUTE, FALL ON SNOW/ICE – UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, FAULTY USE OF CRAMPONS, NO HARD HAT, INEXPERIENCE Wyoming, Grand Teton ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2012
Fall on Rock, Climbing Alone, Inexperience, Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Grand Teton
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONE, INEXPERIENCE Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Grand Teton On Saturday July 31, Don Ivie (44) arrived in ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2012
Loose Block Pulled Off — Fall on Rock, Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Middle Teton
LOOSE BLOCK PULLED OFF – FALL ON ROCK Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Middle Teton On August 9, a party of three ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2012
Fall on Rock — Loss of Control on Belay, Inexperience, Haste, Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Death Canyon
FALL ON SNOW – LOSS OF CONTROL ON GLISSADE, INEXPERIENCE Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Nez Perce On August 11 between 1100 and 1600, ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2012
Reported Mountaineering Accidents, Table III
FALL ON ROCK – LASS OF CONTROL ON BELAY, INEXPERIENCE, HASTE Wyoming, Grand Teton national Park, Death Canyon The climbing party ...
ANAM
Accident Tables
2012
Fall on Snow — Unable to Self-Arrest, Faulty Use of Crampons, Wyoming, Gannet Peak
FALL ON SNOW – UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, FAULTY USE OF CRAMPONS Wyoming, Gannet Peak On August 10 about 1300, the Sublette County Sheriff’...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2012
Avalanche — Failure to Analyze Snowpack, Poor Position, Wyoming, Snowy Range
AVALANCHE – FAILURE TO ANALYZE SNOWPACK, POOR POSITION Wyoming, Snowy Range On November 6th, Brice Portwood (27) and I (Ed Warren – 25) were ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2012
Reported Mountaineering Accidents, Table I
 Number of Accidents Reported Total Persons Involved Injured Fatalities   USA CAN USA CAN USA CAN USA CAN  1951 15  22  11  3   1952 31  35  17  13   1953 24  27  12  12   1954 31  41  31  8   1955 34  39  28  6   1956 46  72  54  13   1957 45  53  28  18   1958 32  39  23  11   1959 42 2 56 2 31 0 19 2  1960 47 4 64 12 37 8 19 4  1961 49 9 61 14 45 10 14 4  1962 71 1 90 1 64 0 19 1  1963 68 11 79 12 47 10 19 2  1964 53 11 65 16 44 10 14 3  1965 72 0 90 0 59 0 21 0  1966 67 7 80 9 52 6 16 3  1967 74 10 110 14 63 7 33 5  1968 70 13 87 19 43 12 27 5  1969 94 11 125 17 66 9 29 2  1970 129 11 174 11 88 5 15 5  1971 110 17 138 29 76 11 31 7  1972 141 29 184 42 98 17 49 13  1973 108 6 131 6 85 4 36 2  1974 96 7 177 50 75 1 26 5  1975 78 7 158 22 66 8 19 2  1976 137 16 303 31 210 9 53 6  1977 121 30 277 49 106 21 32 11  1978 118 17 221 19 85 6 42 10  1979 100 36 137 54 83 17 40 19  1980 191 29 295 85 124 26 33 8  1981 97 43 223 119 80 39 39 6  1982 140 48 305 126 120 43 24 14  1983 187 29 442 76 169 26 37 7  1984 182 26 459 63 174 15 26 6   Number of Accidents ...
ANAM
Accident Tables
2012
Reported Mountaineering Accidents, Table II
 1951-2010 2011  Geographical Districts Number of Accidents Deaths Total Persons Involved Number of Accidents Deaths Total Persons Involved  CanadaN.B.  Alberta 520 142 1033     ...
ANAM
Accident Tables
2012
Reported Mountaineering Accidents, Table III
 1951-10 1959-04 2011 2011   USA CAN. USA CAN.  Terrain  Rock 4735 528 103   Snow 2461 355 49   Ice 282 15 4   River 15 3 0   Unknown 22 10 0   Ascent or Descent   Ascent 3790 587 104   Descent 1123 371 49   Unknown 256 13 1   Other N....
ANAM
Accident Tables
2012
2011: Miandi Peak, correction.
Miandi Peak, correction. In AAJ 2008 we published a report from Pat Deavoll on the presumed first ascent of Peak 6,465m, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Nanga Parbat, Diamir Face, ascent to upper Mazeno Ridge
The original goal of our seven-member expedition, supported by the University of Ljubljana, was to climb Nanga Parbat by the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Ultar (Ultar Sar, 7,388m), Southeast Pillar Attempt
Giri-Giri boys Fumitaka Ichimura and Yusuke Sato made the best attempt to date on the magnificent southeast pillar of Ultar. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Gulmit Tower (5,810m), Southeast Ridge, Attempt.
Rising west from Gulmit village on the Karakoram Highway is the Bulkish Yaz Glacier, dominated at its head by an ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Koh-e-Brobar (6,008m GPS), South-Southeast Ridge
Within a year Pakistan Youth Outreach has organized three expeditions and a training camp for youngsters in the peaks of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Hostfjellet (ca.5,500m), North-Northeast Face
From August 20 to September 20 Martin Jakobsson and I, both originally Swedish, visited the Hispar Glacier, establishing base camp at its ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Hispar Sar (6,400m), Southwest Face
Bruce Miller, Steve Su, and I left the U.S. on July 11 for an attempt on unclimbed Pumari Chhish East (...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Latok III (6,949m), West Face
One of the Latok group’s most coveted objectives, the 2,000m west face of Latok III, was finally climbed by ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Dom Brakk (5,830m) and Panoramas
In May 2008, when I was making my first ski traverse from Shimshal to Askole via the Lupke La, the high ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Gasherbrum I (8,068m), Winter Tragedy
At 10:30 a.m. on March 9, 2012, as Polish climbers Bielecki and Golab were descending from the summit of Gasherbrum I, having ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Gasherbrum I (8,086m), First Winter Ascent
The Polish Winter Gasherbrum I expedition was organized by the Polish Alpine Association (PAA) and financed by the Ministry of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Trango Tower (6,239m), Northwest Face, No Fear
In August Dmitry Golovchenko, Sergey Nilov, leader Viktor Volodin, and I, from the Moscow Mountaineering and Climbing Federation, planned to ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Great Trango Tower, Southwest Summit (6,237m), Northwest Face, Parallelniy Mir
A new route on the huge northwest face of Great Trango, climbed by Galina Chibitok from Russia and Marina Kopteva ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Nafees Cap, West Face
What was going on? Odd-Roar was awakened by the sound of a slide coming from above. When the first ice ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012