American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

367 Records

Title Publication Year
A.A.C., Southwest Section
Southwest Section. We had four main events in 2011, finishing strongly with a successful winter dinner. The Section enjoyed good climbing ...
AAJ
Club Activities
2012
A.A.C., New England Section
New England Section. In February our Section helped the International Mountain Climbing School sponsor the 18th annual Ice Fest in ...
AAJ
Club Activities
2012
A.A.C., New York Section
New York Section. The New York Section of the AAC is blessed with a strong cadre of committed volunteers who ...
AAJ
Club Activities
2012
A.A.C., Southern Appalachian Section
Southern Appalachian Section. Throughout 2011, the Southern Appalachian Section focused on growing our membership base and producing relevant local club events. ...
AAJ
Club Activities
2012
A.A.C., Deep South Section
Deep South Section. The principal Section activity was the organization by Frank Nederhand and me of the 2011 Cordillera Blanca Environmental ...
AAJ
Club Activities
2012
Accidents in North American Mountaineering, Sixty-fifth Annual Report of The American Alpine Club
Canada: Data and narratives not available from 2011. Visit alpineclubofcanada.ca/services/safety/index.html for information on the Alpine Club ...
ANAM
Editorials And Prefaces
2012
Know the Ropes: Rappelling
[ Download the original PDF, full of photos and diagrams ] The annual report Accidents in North America Mountaineering (ANAM) has ...
ANAM
Feature Article
2012
Ice Avalanche
On April 24, Ben Kiessel (27), Chris Scharf (38) and Chris Lackey (39) landed on the Root Canal Glacier below the South Face of ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2012
Fall on Snow, Fatigue, Frostbite, Exposure
On May 12, during a Mountain Trip expedition led by guide Dave Staehli (56), Jeremiah O’Sullivan (40) suffered a fall while descending ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2012
Fall on Snow — Unable to Self-Arrest, Climbing Unroped
On the morning of May 16 at 0545, the Angolo Dell’ Avventura Expedition team of Luciano Colombo (67), Mauro Colombo, and Paolo Civera ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2012
Avalanche — Fall on Snow
On May 23 two Japanese climbers, Jiro Kurihara (33) and Junya Shiraishi (28), were reported a day overdue after they left Denali Base ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2012
Fall on Snow — Failure to Clip in to Fixed Rope
Early in the day on May 25, several groups went for a summit attempt from the 17,200-foot camp. The Alpine Ascents ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2012
Altitude Illness, Exhaustion, Climbing Alone — Separated from Party
On June 6 at 2000, Park Ranger Tucker Chenoweth was descending from 19,500 feet with four volunteers when they observed solo climber Zeljko ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2012
Illness — Cardiac Difficulties
On June 7 at 0836, an NPS mountaineering patrol enroute to the high camps encountered a 58 year-old male climber at approximately 7,000 feet ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2012
Cardiac Arrest, Alaska
On June 10, Brian Young (52) went into sudden cardiac arrest in his tent at high camp after having climbed to the ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2012
Fall on Snow, Climbing Alone in Severe Weather Conditions
On the evening of June 28, a guided group at high camp radioed NPS rangers at the 14,200-foot camp to report ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2012
HAPE/HACE, Failure to Descend
On the morning of June 29, Russian and American climbers Alexander Kharkovskiy (52) and Sergie Loz (58) began ascending from Browne Tower to ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2012
Fall on Rock, Unfinished Tie-in Knot
On October 8, a female climber on top-rope fell from near the top of what is believed to be Earl’s ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2012
Fall on Rock, Rappel Error — Failed to Clip into Anchor
On August 16, a man (36) was critically injured when he lost control of his rappel and fell more than 100 feet. He ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2012
Reported Mountaineering Accidents, Table III
FALL ON ROCK, RAPPEL ERROR - FAILED TO CLIP INTO ANCHOR California, Joshua Tree National Park, Saddle Rock On April 18, ...
ANAM
Accident Tables
2012
Stranded — Rope Stuck, Poor Communication — Wind, Inexperience
After an hour of getting nowhere, Peter called the NPS for help. The ranger taking the call asked if Peter ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2012
Off Route, Fall on Rock — Protection Pulled When Weighted, Inadequate Protection, Complacency
On May 31, Maeve Devlin (19) and I, John-Mark Toth (22), hiked up to the classic Snake Dike route. From the base of ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2012
Fall on Rock, Protection Came Off
Although I had climbed several walls in Zion, I had never climbed El Capitan; in fact, I had never even ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2012
Stranded, Fatigue, Inadequate Water, Inexperience
On July 3, Cindy Lu (32) and I, Leo Wu (35), climbed Royal Arches. Despite it being our first really long climb, it ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2012
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, Complacency
On August 12th, my long time climbing partner (27) and I, Bud Miller (27), set off to climb the 1000-foot North Face ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2012
Fall on Rock, Off Route, Party Separated — Climbing Alone, Inadequate Clothing, Exceeding Abilities, California, Kings Canyon National Park, Thunderbolt Peak
FALL ON ROCK, OFF ROUTE, PARTY SEPARATED - CLIMBING ALONE, INADEQUATE CLOTHING, EXCEEDING ABILITIES California, Kings Canyon National Park, Thunderbolt ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2012
Fall on Rock — Rappel/Lowering Error, Poor Communication, Haste
On September 12, Jody (27) and Karen (24) spent the day climbing in Tuolumne Meadows with friends Dan and Sanjay. In the afternoon ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2012
Falling Rock — Pulled Flake Off, Fall on Rock, Off-Route, Haste, California, Yosemite Valley, Half Dome
FALLING ROCK - PULLED FLAKE OFF, FALL ON ROCK, OFF-ROUTE, HASTE California, Yosemite Valley, Half Dome Early in the morning ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2012
Protection Pulled When Weighted — Fall on Rock, California, Yosemite Valley, El Capitan
PROTECTION PULLED WHEN WEIGHTED - FALL ON ROCK California, Yosemite Valley, El Capitan On September 26, Michael Schmoelzer (52) and Ritchie Edelsbacher (44), ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2012
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, California, Yosemite Valley, Washington Column
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION California, Yosemite Valley, Washington Column On September 27, Taylor Sincich (23) and I, Tommy Bairstow (24), set out ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2012
Various Falls on Snow — Causes Included Off Route, Separated from Group, Inadequate Footwear (Sneakers), Ice Axes on Packs, Falling Rock, and One HAPE Fatality, California, Mount Shaste, Avalanceh Gulch
VARIOUS FALLS ON SNOW - CAUSES INCLUDED OFF ROUTE, SEPARATED FROM GROUP, INADEQUATE FOOTWEAR (SNEAKERS), ICE AXES ON PACKS, FALLING ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2012
Dislodged Rock — Falling Rock
I was belaying my partner on January 16. We were climbing a new route not in the guidebook when he kicked ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2012
Avalanche, No Belay Anchor
During the mid-morning of January 17, while two climbers were top roping The Shroud ice climb (WI3-4), an avalanche from ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2012
Fall on Snow, Unable to Self-Arrest, Failure to Turn Back, Exceeding Abilities, Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Mount Meeker
FALL ON SNOW, UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, FAILURE TO TURN BACK, EXCEEDING ABILITIES Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Mount Meeker On ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2012
Falling Rock, Failure to Test Hold, Seated Belayer, Colorado, Shelf Road
FALLING ROCK, FAILURE TO TEST HOLD, SEATED BELAYER Colorado, Shelf Road Despite the rain and a recent shoulder dislocation, Joe (32) ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2012
Fall on Rock — Poor Communication
On Tuesday May 17, American Alpine Club (AAC) Executive Director Phil Powers (50) took four of his employees—Keegan Young, Penn ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2012
Fall on Rock, Rockfall, Colorado, Poudre Canyon
FALL ON ROCK, ROCKFALL Colorado, Poudre Canyon Late in the day on May 23 a female climber (31) was injured when she ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2012
Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled Out, No Hard Hat
Reid Pletcher (22), and I (Mali Noyes) were climbing together on May 26. This was going to be our last climb of ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2012
Fall on Rock — Incomplete Tie-In Knot, Colorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park
FALL ON ROCK - INCOMPLETE TIE-IN KNOT Colorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park On May 28, Colin Gregg (34) was top-roping the first ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2012
Fall on Rock, Failure to Follow Route, Colorado, Clear Creek Canyon
FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE Colorado, Clear Creek Canyon Andy (28) and his partner Tamie (28) were climbing at Canal ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2012
Fall on Rock — Poor Communication, Colorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park, The Bastille
FALL ON ROCK - POOR COMMUNICATION Colorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park, The Bastille On July 9, Darrell Kangiser (25) lead the first ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2012
Fall on Rock, Climbing Alone, Darkness, Colorado, El Diente Peak
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONE, DARKNESS Colorado, El Diente Peak Joe Yearm (28) was descending El Diente Peak (14,159 feet) in the ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2012
Slip on Steep Snow, Climbing Alone, Climbing Unroped, Inadequate Equipment/Clothing, Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Longs Peak
SLIP ON STEEP SNOW, CLIMBING ALONE, CLIMBING UNROPED, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT/CLOTHING Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park (RMNP), Longs Peak On ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2012
Fall on Rock, Ledge Breaks Beneath Climber's Feet, Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Longs Peak
FALL ON ROCK, LEDGE BREAKS BENEATH CLIMBER’S FEET Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Longs Peak On Sunday August 28, Keith ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2012
Stranded — Inadequate Equipment, Colorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park
STRANDED - INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT Colorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park On September 3,, a male (29) and female (30) climbed The Yellow Spur (5.9/5.10) on ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2012
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, Unable to Communicate with Partner, Colorado, Buena Vista Crags
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, UNABLE TO COMMUNICATE WITH PARTNER Colorado, Buena Vista Crags On September 26, I was approximately 18 feet ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2012
Stranded, Unfamiliar with Descent, Colorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park
STRANDED, UNFAMILIAR WITH DESCENT Colorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park On October 15, rescuers were notified that two overdue climbers, Nicholas Kainrath (22) ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2012
Stranded, Darkness, Poor Planning, Colorado, Boulder Canyon, Castle Rock
STRANDED, DARKNESS, POOR PLANNING Colorado, Boulder Canyon, Castle Rock On October 24, Gary Hansen (54) and his daughter Kate (17) became stranded on ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2012
Stranded, Climbing Alone, Free Solo Climbing, Off Route, Inadequate Equipment, Colorado, First Flatiron
STRANDED, CLIMBING ALONE, FREE SOLO CLIMBING, OFF ROUTE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT Colorado, First Flatiron Late in the afternoon on December 10 Xavier ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2012
Fall on Rock, Rappel Error — No Knot on Roped End, No Hard Hat, Inexperience, Colorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park
FALL ON ROCK, RAPPEL ERROR - NO KNOT ON ROPE END, NO HARD HAT, INEXPERIENCE Colorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2012