American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

367 Records

Title Publication Year
The Ledge: An Adventure Story of Friendship and Survival on Mount Rainier
The Ledge: An Adventure Story of Friendship and Survival on Mount Rainier. Jim Davidson and Kevin Vaughan. Ballantine Books, 2011. 268 pages. ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2012
The Will to Climb: Obsession and Commitment and the Quest to Climb Annapurna—the World's Deadliest Peak
The Will to Climb: Obsession and Commitment and the Quest to Climb Annapurna— the World’s Deadliest Peak. Ed Viesturs ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2012
The Valley Climbers, Yosemite's Vertical Revolution
The Valley Climbers, Yosemite’s Vertical Revolution. John Long, editor. Stonemaster Press, 2011. 99 photographs, most in color. 168 pages. Hardcover. $54.95. A coffee-table ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2012
Bold Beyond Belief: Bill Denz, New Zealand's Mountain Warrior
Bold Beyond Belief: Bill Denz, New Zealand’s Mountain Warrior. Paul Maxim. Maxim Books, 2011. 303 pages. Paperback. $49.95. Paul Maxim has written ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2012
Mountaineers: Great Tales of Bravery and Conquest
Mountaineers: Great Tales of Bravery and Conquest. Ed Douglas et al. DK Publishing, 2011. 360 pages. Color photos. Hardcover. $40.00. Ignore the vulgar ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2012
Mountaineering in Antarctica
Mountaineering in Antarctica: Climbing in the Frozen South. Damien Gildea. Éditions Nevicata, 2010. 192 pages. 200 color photos, 12 maps. Hardcover. $49.95. In the last ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2012
Into the Silence: The Great War, Mallory, and the Conquest of Everest
Into the Silence: The Great War, Mallory, and the Conquest of Everest. Wade Davis. Knopf, 2011. 672 pages. Black & white photos. Hardcover. $32.50. ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2012
Aconcagua: The Invention of Mountaineering on America's Highest Peak
Aconcagua: The Invention of Mountaineering on America’s Highest Peak. Joy Logan. The University of Arizona Press, 2011. 256 pages. Photos. Paperback. $35.00. ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2012
Triumph and Tragedy: The Life of Edward Whymper
Triumph and Tragedy: the Life of Edward Whymper. Emil Henry. Matador (U.K.), 2011. 428 pages. B&W Sketches taken from Whymper’...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2012
Snow & Spire: Flights to Winter in the North Cascade Range, Mountain
Snow & Spire: Flights to Winter in the North Cascade Range. John Scurlock. Silt, CO: Wolverine Publishing. Many color photographs. 192 pages. ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2012
Ann Brooks Carter, 1917-2011
Ann Brooks Carter, 1917–2011 Ann Brooks Carter was born into a loving Quaker family in Medford, Massachusetts, on February 10, 1917. After graduation ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2012
Steve Hackett, 1945-2011
Steve Hackett, 1945–2011 The Kachemak Nordic Ski Club and the community of Homer lost a valuable member when Steve Hackett, 65, passed ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2012
James W. Ebert, 1947-2011
James W. Ebert, 1947–2011 Jim Ebert was born and raised in the geographically oppressed Plains of the Midwest. In spite of ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2012
James Goodwin, 1910-2011
James Goodwin, 1910 – 2011 Jim Goodwin died on April 14 in Lake Placid. To the rock and ice climbing community, he was a ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2012
James H. Kanzler, 1948-2011
James H. Kanzler, 1948–2011 James H. Kanzler laced up his boots for the last time and “hiked over the pass” on ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2012
Victor Curt Mahler, 1932-2011
Victor Curt Mahler, 1932-2011 Victor passed away following a bout of pneumonia, on September 7 in New York City. An incredibly ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2012
Bonnie Prudden, 1914-2011
Bonnie Prudden, 1914–2011 Bonnie Prudden, fitness pioneer and founder of Bonnie Prudden Myotherapy, passed away at her home in Tucson on ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2012
George Sainsbury, 1925-2011
George Sainsbury, 1925–2011 George Ross Sainsbury, AAC board member, chairman of Seattle Mountain Rescue, and charter member of Olympia Mountain Rescue, ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2012
A.A.C., Alaska Section
Alaska Section. The summer of 2011 saw the completion of the AAC’s newest hut, the Snowbird, located in the Hatcher ...
AAJ
Club Activities
2012
A.A.C., Sierra Nevada Section
Sierra Nevada Section. This was another active year for the Sierra Nevada Section, which continued to welcome many new members. ...
AAJ
Club Activities
2012
A.A.C., Southwest Section
Southwest Section. We had four main events in 2011, finishing strongly with a successful winter dinner. The Section enjoyed good climbing ...
AAJ
Club Activities
2012
A.A.C., New England Section
New England Section. In February our Section helped the International Mountain Climbing School sponsor the 18th annual Ice Fest in ...
AAJ
Club Activities
2012
A.A.C., New York Section
New York Section. The New York Section of the AAC is blessed with a strong cadre of committed volunteers who ...
AAJ
Club Activities
2012
A.A.C., Southern Appalachian Section
Southern Appalachian Section. Throughout 2011, the Southern Appalachian Section focused on growing our membership base and producing relevant local club events. ...
AAJ
Club Activities
2012
A.A.C., Deep South Section
Deep South Section. The principal Section activity was the organization by Frank Nederhand and me of the 2011 Cordillera Blanca Environmental ...
AAJ
Club Activities
2012
Accidents in North American Mountaineering, Sixty-fifth Annual Report of The American Alpine Club
Canada: Data and narratives not available from 2011. Visit alpineclubofcanada.ca/services/safety/index.html for information on the Alpine Club ...
ANAM
Editorials And Prefaces
2012
Know the Ropes: Rappelling
[ Download the original PDF, full of photos and diagrams ] The annual report Accidents in North America Mountaineering (ANAM) has ...
ANAM
Feature Article
2012
Ice Avalanche
On April 24, Ben Kiessel (27), Chris Scharf (38) and Chris Lackey (39) landed on the Root Canal Glacier below the South Face of ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2012
Fall on Snow, Fatigue, Frostbite, Exposure
On May 12, during a Mountain Trip expedition led by guide Dave Staehli (56), Jeremiah O’Sullivan (40) suffered a fall while descending ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2012
Fall on Snow — Unable to Self-Arrest, Climbing Unroped
On the morning of May 16 at 0545, the Angolo Dell’ Avventura Expedition team of Luciano Colombo (67), Mauro Colombo, and Paolo Civera ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2012
Avalanche — Fall on Snow
On May 23 two Japanese climbers, Jiro Kurihara (33) and Junya Shiraishi (28), were reported a day overdue after they left Denali Base ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2012
Fall on Snow — Failure to Clip in to Fixed Rope
Early in the day on May 25, several groups went for a summit attempt from the 17,200-foot camp. The Alpine Ascents ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2012
Altitude Illness, Exhaustion, Climbing Alone — Separated from Party
On June 6 at 2000, Park Ranger Tucker Chenoweth was descending from 19,500 feet with four volunteers when they observed solo climber Zeljko ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2012
Illness — Cardiac Difficulties
On June 7 at 0836, an NPS mountaineering patrol enroute to the high camps encountered a 58 year-old male climber at approximately 7,000 feet ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2012
Cardiac Arrest, Alaska
On June 10, Brian Young (52) went into sudden cardiac arrest in his tent at high camp after having climbed to the ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2012
Fall on Snow, Climbing Alone in Severe Weather Conditions
On the evening of June 28, a guided group at high camp radioed NPS rangers at the 14,200-foot camp to report ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2012
HAPE/HACE, Failure to Descend
On the morning of June 29, Russian and American climbers Alexander Kharkovskiy (52) and Sergie Loz (58) began ascending from Browne Tower to ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2012
Fall on Rock, Unfinished Tie-in Knot
On October 8, a female climber on top-rope fell from near the top of what is believed to be Earl’s ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2012
Fall on Rock, Rappel Error — Failed to Clip into Anchor
On August 16, a man (36) was critically injured when he lost control of his rappel and fell more than 100 feet. He ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2012
Reported Mountaineering Accidents, Table III
FALL ON ROCK, RAPPEL ERROR - FAILED TO CLIP INTO ANCHOR California, Joshua Tree National Park, Saddle Rock On April 18, ...
ANAM
Accident Tables
2012
Stranded — Rope Stuck, Poor Communication — Wind, Inexperience
After an hour of getting nowhere, Peter called the NPS for help. The ranger taking the call asked if Peter ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2012
Off Route, Fall on Rock — Protection Pulled When Weighted, Inadequate Protection, Complacency
On May 31, Maeve Devlin (19) and I, John-Mark Toth (22), hiked up to the classic Snake Dike route. From the base of ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2012
Fall on Rock, Protection Came Off
Although I had climbed several walls in Zion, I had never climbed El Capitan; in fact, I had never even ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2012
Stranded, Fatigue, Inadequate Water, Inexperience
On July 3, Cindy Lu (32) and I, Leo Wu (35), climbed Royal Arches. Despite it being our first really long climb, it ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2012
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, Complacency
On August 12th, my long time climbing partner (27) and I, Bud Miller (27), set off to climb the 1000-foot North Face ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2012
Fall on Rock, Off Route, Party Separated — Climbing Alone, Inadequate Clothing, Exceeding Abilities, California, Kings Canyon National Park, Thunderbolt Peak
FALL ON ROCK, OFF ROUTE, PARTY SEPARATED - CLIMBING ALONE, INADEQUATE CLOTHING, EXCEEDING ABILITIES California, Kings Canyon National Park, Thunderbolt ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2012
Fall on Rock — Rappel/Lowering Error, Poor Communication, Haste
On September 12, Jody (27) and Karen (24) spent the day climbing in Tuolumne Meadows with friends Dan and Sanjay. In the afternoon ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2012
Falling Rock — Pulled Flake Off, Fall on Rock, Off-Route, Haste, California, Yosemite Valley, Half Dome
FALLING ROCK - PULLED FLAKE OFF, FALL ON ROCK, OFF-ROUTE, HASTE California, Yosemite Valley, Half Dome Early in the morning ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2012
Protection Pulled When Weighted — Fall on Rock, California, Yosemite Valley, El Capitan
PROTECTION PULLED WHEN WEIGHTED - FALL ON ROCK California, Yosemite Valley, El Capitan On September 26, Michael Schmoelzer (52) and Ritchie Edelsbacher (44), ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2012
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, California, Yosemite Valley, Washington Column
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION California, Yosemite Valley, Washington Column On September 27, Taylor Sincich (23) and I, Tommy Bairstow (24), set out ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2012