American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

367 Records

Title Publication Year
Minya Konka Range, Reddomain, North Face, 2010 attempt and 2011 success, Remember Chris; Jiazi, West Face, Liberal Dance; Xiao Gongga (Little Konka, 5,928m), South Face, Thrill
Zhou Peng and I spent October in the northwestern sector of the Minya Konka Range, arriving at base camp (4,300m) ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Grosvenor (6,376m), West Face, Black Wolves and Blue Poppies
Grosvenor is a striking mountain, an iconic pyramid with technical faces that allow no easy way up. The west face ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Mt Edgar (6,618m), North Face Attempt
In September and October 2010 our Russian team hoped to complete new routes on Edgar from the Nan Nem Guon Valley ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Grosvenor (6,376m), East Face; Edgar (6,618m), West Face Attempt
From mid-October to mid- November we were back in the Minya Konka Range for another attempt on Edgar by the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Daddomain (6,380m), Ame ni mo Makezu
Giri-Giri boys Fumitaka Ichimura, Ryo Masumoto, and Takaaki Nagato made the first ascent of the east face of Daddomain, although ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Siguniang (6,250m), Northwest Face, Ni Hen Piao Liang
Climbing with a friend is great. Climbing with four friends even better. We inevitably come away tired from cranking and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Siguniang (6,250m), South Face, Liberation
From November 10 to 13, Li Zhongli and I made an alpine-style ascent of the south face of Siguniang (Yaomei Feng), the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Goromity (5,609m), Attempts
Goromity (local name Riyucaibao), toward the southern end of the Siguniang Shan, is the highest unclimbed mountain in the range. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Unnamed Peak (5,321m), Attempt
During February 2011 Darryl Kralovic and I attempted a 5,321m peak in the Yulong Xueshan. This is the easternmost prominent peak ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Smaug (ca 5,000m)
On December 17, 2010 Darryl Kralovic and I climbed a previously unnamed peak in the Yulong Xueshan, the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Loajunshan National Park Rock Climbing
Austin and Laoiju Stringham have opened a sandstone trad climbing area in northwest Yunnan Province. Accessed through the town of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Gurla Mandhata (Naimona'nyi, 7,694m), First Traverse
For some years Kazuya Hiraide and I tried to visit Gurla Mandhata. We knew about ascents from the northwest, facing ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Cho Oyu, Point 7,570m, Northwest Face, NIL
While climbing a new route on Palung Ri in 2006 (AAJ 2007), I looked at the possibility of a new route on ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Qungmo Kangri (7,069m), Southwest Face; Point 6,097m, North Ridge; Dhungri II (6,194m), Southwest Ridge; Point ca 5,980m
In the autumn a party of climbers made four ascents in the Qungmo Kangri group at the southwestern end of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Jiangpu Glacier, Exploration
When flying from Chengdu to Lhasa, you pass over more than 200, 6,000m peaks in the Nyanchen Tanglha East. Nearly all ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Tvan Bogd, Naran (3,884m), North Face
During the week beginning July 17 Ken Krebs and I climbed a direct line up the north face of Naran, via ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Mt. Batu Daya, Southeast Face
In 2011, after authorities denied me a visa to return to Socotra Island, Yemen, due to war mayhem, I looked at ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
American Alpine Club Grants
The American Alpine Club provides resources for climbers and explorers to attempt new challenges, conduct scientific research, and conserve mountain ...
AAJ
Notes
2012
Freedom Climbers
Freedom Climbers. Bernadette McDonald. Rocky Mountain Books, 2011. 352 pages. Color photos. Hardcover. $29.95. In Freedom Climbers Bernadette McDonald tells the story of ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2012
Fred Beckey's 100 Favorite North American Climbs
Fred Beckey’s 100 Favorite North American Climbs. Fred Beckey. Introduction by Barry Blanchard. Patagonia Books, 2011. 350 pages. Color photos. Hardcover. $79.95. Fred ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2012
The Ledge: An Adventure Story of Friendship and Survival on Mount Rainier
The Ledge: An Adventure Story of Friendship and Survival on Mount Rainier. Jim Davidson and Kevin Vaughan. Ballantine Books, 2011. 268 pages. ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2012
The Will to Climb: Obsession and Commitment and the Quest to Climb Annapurna—the World's Deadliest Peak
The Will to Climb: Obsession and Commitment and the Quest to Climb Annapurna— the World’s Deadliest Peak. Ed Viesturs ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2012
The Valley Climbers, Yosemite's Vertical Revolution
The Valley Climbers, Yosemite’s Vertical Revolution. John Long, editor. Stonemaster Press, 2011. 99 photographs, most in color. 168 pages. Hardcover. $54.95. A coffee-table ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2012
Bold Beyond Belief: Bill Denz, New Zealand's Mountain Warrior
Bold Beyond Belief: Bill Denz, New Zealand’s Mountain Warrior. Paul Maxim. Maxim Books, 2011. 303 pages. Paperback. $49.95. Paul Maxim has written ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2012
Mountaineers: Great Tales of Bravery and Conquest
Mountaineers: Great Tales of Bravery and Conquest. Ed Douglas et al. DK Publishing, 2011. 360 pages. Color photos. Hardcover. $40.00. Ignore the vulgar ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2012
Mountaineering in Antarctica
Mountaineering in Antarctica: Climbing in the Frozen South. Damien Gildea. Éditions Nevicata, 2010. 192 pages. 200 color photos, 12 maps. Hardcover. $49.95. In the last ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2012
Into the Silence: The Great War, Mallory, and the Conquest of Everest
Into the Silence: The Great War, Mallory, and the Conquest of Everest. Wade Davis. Knopf, 2011. 672 pages. Black & white photos. Hardcover. $32.50. ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2012
Aconcagua: The Invention of Mountaineering on America's Highest Peak
Aconcagua: The Invention of Mountaineering on America’s Highest Peak. Joy Logan. The University of Arizona Press, 2011. 256 pages. Photos. Paperback. $35.00. ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2012
Triumph and Tragedy: The Life of Edward Whymper
Triumph and Tragedy: the Life of Edward Whymper. Emil Henry. Matador (U.K.), 2011. 428 pages. B&W Sketches taken from Whymper’...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2012
Snow & Spire: Flights to Winter in the North Cascade Range, Mountain
Snow & Spire: Flights to Winter in the North Cascade Range. John Scurlock. Silt, CO: Wolverine Publishing. Many color photographs. 192 pages. ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2012
Ann Brooks Carter, 1917-2011
Ann Brooks Carter, 1917–2011 Ann Brooks Carter was born into a loving Quaker family in Medford, Massachusetts, on February 10, 1917. After graduation ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2012
Steve Hackett, 1945-2011
Steve Hackett, 1945–2011 The Kachemak Nordic Ski Club and the community of Homer lost a valuable member when Steve Hackett, 65, passed ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2012
James W. Ebert, 1947-2011
James W. Ebert, 1947–2011 Jim Ebert was born and raised in the geographically oppressed Plains of the Midwest. In spite of ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2012
James Goodwin, 1910-2011
James Goodwin, 1910 – 2011 Jim Goodwin died on April 14 in Lake Placid. To the rock and ice climbing community, he was a ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2012
James H. Kanzler, 1948-2011
James H. Kanzler, 1948–2011 James H. Kanzler laced up his boots for the last time and “hiked over the pass” on ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2012
Victor Curt Mahler, 1932-2011
Victor Curt Mahler, 1932-2011 Victor passed away following a bout of pneumonia, on September 7 in New York City. An incredibly ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2012
Bonnie Prudden, 1914-2011
Bonnie Prudden, 1914–2011 Bonnie Prudden, fitness pioneer and founder of Bonnie Prudden Myotherapy, passed away at her home in Tucson on ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2012
George Sainsbury, 1925-2011
George Sainsbury, 1925–2011 George Ross Sainsbury, AAC board member, chairman of Seattle Mountain Rescue, and charter member of Olympia Mountain Rescue, ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2012
A.A.C., Alaska Section
Alaska Section. The summer of 2011 saw the completion of the AAC’s newest hut, the Snowbird, located in the Hatcher ...
AAJ
Club Activities
2012
A.A.C., Sierra Nevada Section
Sierra Nevada Section. This was another active year for the Sierra Nevada Section, which continued to welcome many new members. ...
AAJ
Club Activities
2012
A.A.C., Southwest Section
Southwest Section. We had four main events in 2011, finishing strongly with a successful winter dinner. The Section enjoyed good climbing ...
AAJ
Club Activities
2012
A.A.C., New England Section
New England Section. In February our Section helped the International Mountain Climbing School sponsor the 18th annual Ice Fest in ...
AAJ
Club Activities
2012
A.A.C., New York Section
New York Section. The New York Section of the AAC is blessed with a strong cadre of committed volunteers who ...
AAJ
Club Activities
2012
A.A.C., Southern Appalachian Section
Southern Appalachian Section. Throughout 2011, the Southern Appalachian Section focused on growing our membership base and producing relevant local club events. ...
AAJ
Club Activities
2012
A.A.C., Deep South Section
Deep South Section. The principal Section activity was the organization by Frank Nederhand and me of the 2011 Cordillera Blanca Environmental ...
AAJ
Club Activities
2012
Accidents in North American Mountaineering, Sixty-fifth Annual Report of The American Alpine Club
Canada: Data and narratives not available from 2011. Visit alpineclubofcanada.ca/services/safety/index.html for information on the Alpine Club ...
ANAM
Editorials And Prefaces
2012
Know the Ropes: Rappelling
[ Download the original PDF, full of photos and diagrams ] The annual report Accidents in North America Mountaineering (ANAM) has ...
ANAM
Feature Article
2012
Ice Avalanche
On April 24, Ben Kiessel (27), Chris Scharf (38) and Chris Lackey (39) landed on the Root Canal Glacier below the South Face of ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2012
Fall on Snow, Fatigue, Frostbite, Exposure
On May 12, during a Mountain Trip expedition led by guide Dave Staehli (56), Jeremiah O’Sullivan (40) suffered a fall while descending ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2012
Fall on Snow — Unable to Self-Arrest, Climbing Unroped
On the morning of May 16 at 0545, the Angolo Dell’ Avventura Expedition team of Luciano Colombo (67), Mauro Colombo, and Paolo Civera ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2012