American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

367 Records

Title Publication Year
North America, United States, Washington, Dragontail Peak, Chasin' Tail
Dragontail Peak, Chasiri Tail. On July 24, Adam Lawson and I picked our way through eight new pitches (two were long ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
North America, United States, Washington, Mt. Adams, Adams Headwall Variation
Mt. Adams, Adams Headwall variation. It is a testament to E1 Nino and an open-minded approach to ice climbing that ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Liberty Cap, The Patriot Act
Liberty Cap called us back for another round after we added Scarface in 2010. Starting halfway out the traverse ledge, in ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Merriam Peak, North Buttress, Two New Routes
Late last summer Lisa Rand and I headed up from the old mine ruins in Pine Creek to the high ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Disappearing Dome, Disappearing in Plain Sight
Disappearing Dome, Disappearing in Plain Sight. In July Hunter Sibbald and I climbed a new route on Disappearing Dome, in ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Dana Plateau, The Sauce Bone Arête
In September Patrick Dougherty and I climbed a great new 800-foot route on the Dana Plateau. The 2011 AAJ reported a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Bear Creek Spire, Jamaica Say You Will
In September Mike Dahlquist and I climbed a new route on the south face of Bear Creek Spire. The routes ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, High Sierra, The Overlooked Middle
High Sierra, the overlooked middle. I don’t get it. The High Sierra has largely been ignored for new routes ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Evolution Traverse, First Winter Ascent
The Evolution Traverse takes a line along the crest of the Evolution group, linking nine 13,000’ peaks named after contributors to ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
North America, United States, Utah, Green River, Desolation Canyon, The Siren
Green River, Desolation Canyon, The Siren. In April Josh Thompson, Andrew Gram, Lena Laakso, and I put in at Sand ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
North America, United States, Utah, Fisher Towers, Cottontail Tower, Trick of the Tail
Fisher Towers, Cottontail Tower, Trick of the Tail. From September 9 to 12, Jeremy Aslaksen and I climbed a new route on ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
North America, United States, Montana, Hyalite and Yellowstone, New Ice Climbs
Hyalite and Yellowstone, new ice climbs. Hyalite Canyon is our gym here in southwest Montana, with world-class ice that’s ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
New Routes on Elephant Head, Fremont Peak, and Mt. Sacagawea
Of all the ranges round the world, the Wind River Mountains, right in my backyard, remain one of my favorites. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
I Think Therefore I Ambush
Nestled deep in the Wind River Range at the upper end of the East Fork Valley, Ambush’s east face ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
The Candy Shop
Our five-pitch variation to the Northwest Face of Warrior I stemmed from an attempt to gain the stunning right-facing dihedral ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Hallucinogen Wall, First Free Ascent
When Ben Lepesant asked if I’d  be interested in climbing classic routes in the Black Canyon, I did ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
The Guardian, Weather Window Waltz
In August 2011 Wesley Ashwood, Kelsey Sheely, and I put up a new line on the northeast face of the Guardian (13,617...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Deep in the Alaskan Bush
In mid-April photographer Corey Rich asked if I wanted to join a 10-day climbing trip in the Brooks Range with ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Elephant's Tooth, North Pillar; Parabola, South Face, Possible First Ascents
Ten years ago I tried to climb in the Arrigetch but failed to do anything, because of rain. I returned ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Mt. Geist (3,269m/10,720'), Northeast Face, Possible New Route
The idea of going to the Hayes Range developed after we did some digging on the Internet and made a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park, Denali National Park and Preserve Summary
Denali National Park and Preserve summary. Sadly, nine climbers died in the Alaska Range during 2011, making it the third deadliest ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Denali, Lower Southwest Face, Dad and Son
My 23-year-old son Denali felt compelled to climb his namesake. While he was studying in San Francisco, he told me ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park, West Kahiltna Peak (3,914m/12,835'), West Ridge
West Kahiltna Peak (3,914m/12,835'), west ridge. West Kahiltna Peak is just off of the Kahiltna Glacier, and every West ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Mt. Hunter, North Buttress to Cornice Bivouac, the Cartwright Connection
Unrelenting spindrift avalanches and gusty winds blasted and buffeted the portaledge. Our small cocoon of safety on this harsh mountain ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Voyager Peak (12,213'), South Face, To the Center
In the first week of May, Mark Allen and I set up base camp at Kahiltna International, then headed off ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park, Ruth Gorge, Barrill (2,332m/7,650'), Northeast Face, Alaskan Primer
Ruth Gorge, Barrill (2,332m/7,650'), northeast face, Alaskan Primer. On May 13 Ben Gilmore and Hans Johnstone climbed a new route ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
North America, United States, Alaska, Revelation Mountains, Mt. Mausolus (9,170'), First Ascent
Mt. Mausolus (9,170'), first ascent. From March 15 to 17 Clint Helander and Scotty Vincik made the first ascent of Mt. Mausolus. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Mystery Mountain, Northeast Ridge, Where's the Gas; Dog Tooth
On May 26 Ben Chriswell, Sam Johnson, and I flew to the Pitchfork Glacier. The Neacolas are a largely unexplored group ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Mt. Yukla (2,297m/7,535'), North Face, No Call, No Show
In October John Kelley and I headed back to Mt. Yukla to climb the North Couloir and check out an ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Mt. Yukla (2,297m/7,535'), North Face, Most People Are DJs
On October 10 local Anchorage climber John Kelley and I walked to the north face of Mt. Yukla, via Icicle Creek, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
North America, United States, Alaska, St. Elias Mountains, University Peak (14,470'), Southwest Spur
University Peak (14,470'), southwest spur. Kevin Ditzler and John Kelley climbed this 8,500' route in seven days, summiting on April 17. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Mt. Orville (10,495'), north ridge, attempt; Peak 7,400+', northwest ridge, attempt
In April 2011 I returned for a second visit to the Johns Hopkins glacier basin in the southern part of the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Burkett Needle (2,590m/8,500'), East Arête, Repeat Offender
On September 9 John Frieh, Zac West, and I flew to the Burkett Glacier in the heart of the Stikine Icecap. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Traverse of Juneau Icefield, Possible First Ascents, and Ski Descents
In April Alex Appelby, Ben Bizwell, Tom Francis, and I arrived in Haines to ski-traverse the Juneau Icefield, while making ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Juneau Icefield, Taku D Peak (1,771m/5,810'), Southeast Face, Epic
Some of the remotest and wildest summits on earth are located in Alaska, and climbing them is a great adventure. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Stairway Glacier, Peak 3,450m, South-Southeast Face and Southwest Ridge
Jonathan Wakefield and I arrived at Kluane Lake on May 16 and were able to fly within one and a half ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Southern Coast Mountains and Canadian Cascades
The number of new routes reported in southwestern British Columbia has been declining since surging around 2002-2004. There are probably ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Uummannaq and Upernavik Regions First Ascents
Following our successful campaign in 2010, we returned in July 2011, with a strong group mainly of Italian guides, to blitz the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Saven Range, First Ascents
In May Geoff Bonney, Sandy Gregson, and I, veterans of many Greenland expeditions, were joined in the Saven Range by ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Renland, Shark's Tooth (1,555m), Dance on Tiptoes
On April 16 Mikhail Mikhailov and I arrived at Constable Pynt in poor weather after a flight from Reykjavik. The same ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Watkins Mountains, Mt. Augustine Courtauld (ca 3,150m)
In the second half of May, a Tangent expedition led by Ian Barker and Mark Basey-Fisher (U.K.), with Warren ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Tasermiut Fjord, Hermelndal, Tininnertuup II (1,511m), East Face Attempt
Our plan was to open a new rock route in Greenland, as part of my seven big walls on seven ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
North America, Greenland, South Greenland — Cape Farewell Region, Quvnerit Island, Various Ascents
Quvnerit Island, various ascents. This was my third trip to Greenland. In 2001, with Gabor Berecz, Gunter Dengler, and Thomas Tivadar, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Ritacuba Blanco, South Pillar (not to summit)
[ Editor's Note and Correction: The Lopez-Pfaff Direct route described below is in fact not on Ritacuba Blanco proper; rather, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Amuri Tepui, South Face, Kids with Guns
Over 15 days during February 2012, Mason Earle (U.S.), Sam Farnsworth (U.K.), Siebe Vanhee (Belgium), and I weaved an improbable, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Amuri Tepui, South Face, Maria Rosa and Apichavai
In March 2012, when Stephane Hanssens, Sean Villanueva, Jean-Louis Wertz, and I emerged from the jungle and saw the wall, it ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
South America, Venezuela, Upigma Tepui (2,200m), South Face, The Hospital Breakout
Upigma Tepui (2,200m), south face, The Hospital Breakout. The Gran Sabana holds some of the world’s most majestic big ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Nevado Santa Cruz (6,359m), East Ridge, Attempt; Santa Cruz Chico (5,800m), East Face
Italians Fabrizio Manoni, Enrico Rosso, and Paolo Stoppini attempted the long, unclimbed east ridge of Nevado Santa Cruz, which begins ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Chacraraju Este (6,001m), Northeast Ridge, Direct Finish; Taulliraju (5,830m), Southwest Face, Attempt
On June 22 Oriol Baro and Jordi Corominas from Spain reached the summit of Chacraraju Este, having completed a direct finish ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Cashan West (5,686m Peru IGM), North Ridge, Not to Summit
On July 25 Carlos Cabaza (Spain) and Diego Fernández (Peru) climbed the rocky north ridge of unfrequented Cashan West as ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012