American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

367 Records

Title Publication Year
Bahini Group, Tridesh (ca 5,100m), Soneri Behin (ca 5,250m), and Prabha Behin (ca 5,500m); Jopuno Correction
Between October 16 and November 3 David Kinsella (Australia), Arun Mahajan (India and US), and I explored mountains on the east side ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Changwatang (6,130m), East Spur and Northwest Ridge
Changwatang (6,130m), east spur and northwest ridge. The Limi Valley, in a hidden corner of northwest Nepal, is an exotic ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Gojung (6,310m), West Face
In October Dave Turnbull and I, with Graham Desroy and Jonny Ratcliffe, visited West Nepal. Graham and Jonny’s activity ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Roma (5,407m) and Danphe Sail (6,103m), Attempts
Veteran Japanese explorer Tamotsu Ohnishi, with a Japanese companion and a Sherpa, planned to attempt Roma (5,407m), southwest of Saipal, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Sanctuary Peak (6,025m) and Hopeless Peak (6,036m), North Ridges from Japanese Pass
Protected on all sides by Shey Phoksundo National Park, the Kanjiroba massif is wild and rarely visited. No trails or ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Athahra Saya Khola Himal (6,767m), Southeast Ridge over Hindu Himal (6,306m) and Lilia Peak (6,425m)
Athahra Saya Khola Himal (Mountain of 1,800 Rivers) is a bizarre name, one that evokes the feeling of a faraway place, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Thulagi (7,059m), Attempt from the South and Tragedy
In November 2010 Belarusian Nikolay Bandalet attempted unclimbed Thulagi alpine style with two Russians, climbing the far right side of the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Gaurishankar (7,135m), Southwest Face Attempt
Germans David Goettler, Stefan Glowacz, and Klaus Fengler hoped to climb a new line on the southwest face. Approaching via ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Pangbuk Ri (6,716m, Schneider Map; 6,625m, HMG-Finn), Southeast Face, Ghost Ride the Whip
In spring 2009, while climbing Jobo Rinjang with Joe Puryear, I saw for the first time Pangbuk Ri. With a massive ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Dingjung Ri/Rima Mancho (6,263m), First Winter Ascent, North Face
In mid-January Andy Parkin made a solo winter ascent of this peak above the Dingjung/Chhule Valley, via the previously ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Kyajo Ri (6,186m), Northeast Face, Attempt; Kusum Kanguru (6,370m), Southwest Rib and Northwest Ridge, Attempt
In March Steven Fortune, Mike Rowe, and I arrived in the Solu Khumbu and established base camp at 5,050m, below ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Cho Polu (6,700m), West Face and Southwest Ridge
Elena Parga and I spent a week in Kathmandu, waiting for the plane to Lukla. As far as Island Peak ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Jannu (7,711m), East Face Attempt
Five Koreans led by Kim Hyung-il attempted the east face of Jannu (presumably Jannu East, though the exact line is ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Pik Byeliy (5,697m), Attempt from Southwest
In late July, after climbing the Ibex Horn [see Afghanistan section], I flew from Kabul to Urumqi, then on to ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Asia, China, Xinjiang, Tien Shan, Xuelian Massif; Yi-ge Feng (4,420m), South Face; Kundi Feng (4,601m), North Face and Northwest Ridge; Huang Jin Feng (4,708m), Southwest Face and South Ridge; Xuelian Northeast (6,231m), West Ridge, Arête of Trust
Xuelian Massif; Yi-ge Feng (4,420m), south face; Kundi Feng (4,601m), north face and northwest ridge; Huang Jin Feng (4,708m), southwest ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Sejong Reconnaissance
Before our attempt on Goromity (as reported elsewhere in this section), Hitoshi Onodera and I traveled to Kangding, en route ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Shaluli Shan and Daxue Shan, Various Ascents
For three months I traveled alone in Qinghai, Sichuan, and Yunnan, near the Tibet border, spending time with local inhabitants ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Nideng Gongga (5,690m), West Glacier and South Face
Our initial plan was to explore valleys and the previously unattempted mountains in the Xiangqiuqieke Massif. In particular we wanted ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Yangmolong (6,080m GPS), North Buttress
Reaching the summit of Yangmolong was the accumulation of three years’ effort. In 2009 we attempted the south side, but unseasonably ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Yangmolong and Jarjinjabo-Xiashe Massifs, Exploration
In May and June 2005 I undertook two treks over a six-week period, the objective being to expand on the exploration ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Minya Konka Range, Reddomain, North Face, 2010 attempt and 2011 success, Remember Chris; Jiazi, West Face, Liberal Dance; Xiao Gongga (Little Konka, 5,928m), South Face, Thrill
Zhou Peng and I spent October in the northwestern sector of the Minya Konka Range, arriving at base camp (4,300m) ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Grosvenor (6,376m), West Face, Black Wolves and Blue Poppies
Grosvenor is a striking mountain, an iconic pyramid with technical faces that allow no easy way up. The west face ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Mt Edgar (6,618m), North Face Attempt
In September and October 2010 our Russian team hoped to complete new routes on Edgar from the Nan Nem Guon Valley ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Grosvenor (6,376m), East Face; Edgar (6,618m), West Face Attempt
From mid-October to mid- November we were back in the Minya Konka Range for another attempt on Edgar by the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Daddomain (6,380m), Ame ni mo Makezu
Giri-Giri boys Fumitaka Ichimura, Ryo Masumoto, and Takaaki Nagato made the first ascent of the east face of Daddomain, although ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Siguniang (6,250m), Northwest Face, Ni Hen Piao Liang
Climbing with a friend is great. Climbing with four friends even better. We inevitably come away tired from cranking and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Siguniang (6,250m), South Face, Liberation
From November 10 to 13, Li Zhongli and I made an alpine-style ascent of the south face of Siguniang (Yaomei Feng), the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Goromity (5,609m), Attempts
Goromity (local name Riyucaibao), toward the southern end of the Siguniang Shan, is the highest unclimbed mountain in the range. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Unnamed Peak (5,321m), Attempt
During February 2011 Darryl Kralovic and I attempted a 5,321m peak in the Yulong Xueshan. This is the easternmost prominent peak ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Smaug (ca 5,000m)
On December 17, 2010 Darryl Kralovic and I climbed a previously unnamed peak in the Yulong Xueshan, the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Loajunshan National Park Rock Climbing
Austin and Laoiju Stringham have opened a sandstone trad climbing area in northwest Yunnan Province. Accessed through the town of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Gurla Mandhata (Naimona'nyi, 7,694m), First Traverse
For some years Kazuya Hiraide and I tried to visit Gurla Mandhata. We knew about ascents from the northwest, facing ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Cho Oyu, Point 7,570m, Northwest Face, NIL
While climbing a new route on Palung Ri in 2006 (AAJ 2007), I looked at the possibility of a new route on ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Qungmo Kangri (7,069m), Southwest Face; Point 6,097m, North Ridge; Dhungri II (6,194m), Southwest Ridge; Point ca 5,980m
In the autumn a party of climbers made four ascents in the Qungmo Kangri group at the southwestern end of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Jiangpu Glacier, Exploration
When flying from Chengdu to Lhasa, you pass over more than 200, 6,000m peaks in the Nyanchen Tanglha East. Nearly all ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Tvan Bogd, Naran (3,884m), North Face
During the week beginning July 17 Ken Krebs and I climbed a direct line up the north face of Naran, via ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Mt. Batu Daya, Southeast Face
In 2011, after authorities denied me a visa to return to Socotra Island, Yemen, due to war mayhem, I looked at ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
American Alpine Club Grants
The American Alpine Club provides resources for climbers and explorers to attempt new challenges, conduct scientific research, and conserve mountain ...
AAJ
Notes
2012
Freedom Climbers
Freedom Climbers. Bernadette McDonald. Rocky Mountain Books, 2011. 352 pages. Color photos. Hardcover. $29.95. In Freedom Climbers Bernadette McDonald tells the story of ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2012
Fred Beckey's 100 Favorite North American Climbs
Fred Beckey’s 100 Favorite North American Climbs. Fred Beckey. Introduction by Barry Blanchard. Patagonia Books, 2011. 350 pages. Color photos. Hardcover. $79.95. Fred ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2012
The Ledge: An Adventure Story of Friendship and Survival on Mount Rainier
The Ledge: An Adventure Story of Friendship and Survival on Mount Rainier. Jim Davidson and Kevin Vaughan. Ballantine Books, 2011. 268 pages. ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2012
The Will to Climb: Obsession and Commitment and the Quest to Climb Annapurna—the World's Deadliest Peak
The Will to Climb: Obsession and Commitment and the Quest to Climb Annapurna— the World’s Deadliest Peak. Ed Viesturs ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2012
The Valley Climbers, Yosemite's Vertical Revolution
The Valley Climbers, Yosemite’s Vertical Revolution. John Long, editor. Stonemaster Press, 2011. 99 photographs, most in color. 168 pages. Hardcover. $54.95. A coffee-table ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2012
Bold Beyond Belief: Bill Denz, New Zealand's Mountain Warrior
Bold Beyond Belief: Bill Denz, New Zealand’s Mountain Warrior. Paul Maxim. Maxim Books, 2011. 303 pages. Paperback. $49.95. Paul Maxim has written ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2012
Mountaineers: Great Tales of Bravery and Conquest
Mountaineers: Great Tales of Bravery and Conquest. Ed Douglas et al. DK Publishing, 2011. 360 pages. Color photos. Hardcover. $40.00. Ignore the vulgar ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2012
Mountaineering in Antarctica
Mountaineering in Antarctica: Climbing in the Frozen South. Damien Gildea. Éditions Nevicata, 2010. 192 pages. 200 color photos, 12 maps. Hardcover. $49.95. In the last ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2012
Into the Silence: The Great War, Mallory, and the Conquest of Everest
Into the Silence: The Great War, Mallory, and the Conquest of Everest. Wade Davis. Knopf, 2011. 672 pages. Black & white photos. Hardcover. $32.50. ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2012
Aconcagua: The Invention of Mountaineering on America's Highest Peak
Aconcagua: The Invention of Mountaineering on America’s Highest Peak. Joy Logan. The University of Arizona Press, 2011. 256 pages. Photos. Paperback. $35.00. ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2012
Triumph and Tragedy: The Life of Edward Whymper
Triumph and Tragedy: the Life of Edward Whymper. Emil Henry. Matador (U.K.), 2011. 428 pages. B&W Sketches taken from Whymper’...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2012
Snow & Spire: Flights to Winter in the North Cascade Range, Mountain
Snow & Spire: Flights to Winter in the North Cascade Range. John Scurlock. Silt, CO: Wolverine Publishing. Many color photographs. 192 pages. ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2012