American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

367 Records

Title Publication Year
Asia, Pakistan, Masherbrum Range, K6 Group, Changi Tower (ca 6,500m), Northwest Ridge, Attempt
K6 Group, Changi Tower (ca 6,500m), northwest ridge, attempt. In July 2010 Andrzej Gluszek, Piotr Sztaba, and I, from Poland, visited ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Khane Valley Exploration
Between September 10 and 22, Doychin Boyanov, Mihail Mihaylov, and I explored the Khane Valley to investigate possibilities for big wall routes ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Asia, India, East Karakoram, Junai Kangri, West Face and South Ridge
Junai Kangri, west face and south ridge. On August 22 Francisco Ferrero, Juan G. Hernandez, Jose C. Llamas, and I, from ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Asia, India, East Karakoram, Saser Kangri II (7,518m), Southwest Face
Saser Kangri II (7,518m), southwest face. Americans Mark Richey, Steve Swenson, and Freddie Wilkinson made the first ascent of the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Asia, India, East Karakoram, South Shukpa Kungchang Glacier, Various Ascents
South Shukpa Kungchang Glacier, various ascents. In December 2009 Mark Richey e-mailed a photo of a beautiful gray granite rock peak ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Asia, India, Zanskar, Reru Valley, Various Ascents
Two flights, three days of bum-bruising off-road driving, and two days of scenic hiking brought us to our base camp (4,600...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Asia, India, Zanskar, Reru Valley, Various Ascents
Reru Valley, various ascents. In August nine young climbers from Geneva, with guides Stéfane Schaffer and I, climbed three ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Asia, India, Zanskar, Lenak and Giabul Valleys, Exploration
Lenak and Giabul Valleys, exploration. In 2009 our group explored the Reru Valley, taking photographs of virgin peaks and producing a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Cerro Kishtwar, West Face and South Ridge, Yoniverse; White Sapphire (6,040m), West Face, La Virée des Contemporains
At the end of September Denis Burdet (Swiss), David Lama (Austrian), Stefan Siegrist (Swiss), and American photographer Robert Frost made ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh, Miyar Valley, "Mont Maudit", Northwest Face and North Ridge
“Mont Maudit”, northwest face and north ridge. Many road blocks caused by landslides delayed arrival in the Miyar Valley, resulting ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh, Miyar Valley, Various Ascents
Miyar Valley, various ascents. Thanks to good preparation, a few spells of good weather, and staying healthy throughout the expedition, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Asia, India, Lahaul, Chandra Bhaga Group: Daund (5,565m); Hora East (ca 5,250m); Pagoda East East (ca 5,750m), East Ridge; Tara Pahar (6,227m), East Ridge Attempt
Chandra Bhaga Group: Daund (5,565m); Hora East (ca 5,250m); Pagoda East East (ca 5,750m), east ridge; Tara Pahar (6,227m), east ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Asia, India, Lahaul, Ache and Chemma
Ache and Chemma. The Tokai section of the Japanese Alpine Club (JAC Tokai) has made 11 expeditions to the Indian Himalaya ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Asia, India, Kinnaur, Shoshala (ca 4,700m), Trishul Direct
Shoshala (ca 4,700m), Trishul Direct. In spring 2010 Frederic Nicole, Bernd Zangerl, and I were exploring the Kinnaur region for new ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Asia, India, Western Garhwal, Gangotri, Meru Central (6,310m), East Pillar (a.k.a Shark's Fin)
Meru Central (6,310m), East Pillar (a.k.a Shark’s Fin). Americans Conrad Anker, Jimmy Chin and Renan Ozturk completed ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Bhagirathi III, The Seed of Madness (not to summit)
Roberto delle Monache and I hoped to repeat the Spanish route, Impossible Star (1,300m, 28 pitches, UIAA VI A3+, Aldeguer-Martinez-Moreno-Tomas, 1984), on ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Dudh Ganga Col (5,350m) and Deotoli Col (5,400m), First Ascents
Lhakpa Sherpa, Nandan Singh Negi, Pemba Sherpa, Thendup Sherpa, and I reached a previously unvisited col on the ridge north ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Asia, India, Kumaun, Changuch (6,322m), Northwest Ridge from South
Changuch (6,322m), northwest ridge from south. Before 2009 Changuch was attempted unsuccessfully three times from the south, via the Pindari Glacier. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
In the Footsteps of John Claude White and Photography of Unclimbed Peaks
From March 9 to 22 Indians Anindya Mukherjee and Thendup Sherpa made the first upstream trek along the Ronggyaong and Rukel River ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Asia, India, Sikkim, Kangchenjunga Himal, Zemu Gap (5,861m), First Documented Ascent from the South
Kangchenjunga Himal, Zemu Gap (5,861m), first documented ascent from the south. Reaching Zemu Gap from the south proved a long-standing ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Bahini Group, Tridesh (ca 5,100m), Soneri Behin (ca 5,250m), and Prabha Behin (ca 5,500m); Jopuno Correction
Between October 16 and November 3 David Kinsella (Australia), Arun Mahajan (India and US), and I explored mountains on the east side ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Changwatang (6,130m), East Spur and Northwest Ridge
Changwatang (6,130m), east spur and northwest ridge. The Limi Valley, in a hidden corner of northwest Nepal, is an exotic ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Gojung (6,310m), West Face
In October Dave Turnbull and I, with Graham Desroy and Jonny Ratcliffe, visited West Nepal. Graham and Jonny’s activity ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Roma (5,407m) and Danphe Sail (6,103m), Attempts
Veteran Japanese explorer Tamotsu Ohnishi, with a Japanese companion and a Sherpa, planned to attempt Roma (5,407m), southwest of Saipal, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Sanctuary Peak (6,025m) and Hopeless Peak (6,036m), North Ridges from Japanese Pass
Protected on all sides by Shey Phoksundo National Park, the Kanjiroba massif is wild and rarely visited. No trails or ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Athahra Saya Khola Himal (6,767m), Southeast Ridge over Hindu Himal (6,306m) and Lilia Peak (6,425m)
Athahra Saya Khola Himal (Mountain of 1,800 Rivers) is a bizarre name, one that evokes the feeling of a faraway place, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Thulagi (7,059m), Attempt from the South and Tragedy
In November 2010 Belarusian Nikolay Bandalet attempted unclimbed Thulagi alpine style with two Russians, climbing the far right side of the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Gaurishankar (7,135m), Southwest Face Attempt
Germans David Goettler, Stefan Glowacz, and Klaus Fengler hoped to climb a new line on the southwest face. Approaching via ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Pangbuk Ri (6,716m, Schneider Map; 6,625m, HMG-Finn), Southeast Face, Ghost Ride the Whip
In spring 2009, while climbing Jobo Rinjang with Joe Puryear, I saw for the first time Pangbuk Ri. With a massive ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Dingjung Ri/Rima Mancho (6,263m), First Winter Ascent, North Face
In mid-January Andy Parkin made a solo winter ascent of this peak above the Dingjung/Chhule Valley, via the previously ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Kyajo Ri (6,186m), Northeast Face, Attempt; Kusum Kanguru (6,370m), Southwest Rib and Northwest Ridge, Attempt
In March Steven Fortune, Mike Rowe, and I arrived in the Solu Khumbu and established base camp at 5,050m, below ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Cho Polu (6,700m), West Face and Southwest Ridge
Elena Parga and I spent a week in Kathmandu, waiting for the plane to Lukla. As far as Island Peak ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Jannu (7,711m), East Face Attempt
Five Koreans led by Kim Hyung-il attempted the east face of Jannu (presumably Jannu East, though the exact line is ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Pik Byeliy (5,697m), Attempt from Southwest
In late July, after climbing the Ibex Horn [see Afghanistan section], I flew from Kabul to Urumqi, then on to ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Asia, China, Xinjiang, Tien Shan, Xuelian Massif; Yi-ge Feng (4,420m), South Face; Kundi Feng (4,601m), North Face and Northwest Ridge; Huang Jin Feng (4,708m), Southwest Face and South Ridge; Xuelian Northeast (6,231m), West Ridge, Arête of Trust
Xuelian Massif; Yi-ge Feng (4,420m), south face; Kundi Feng (4,601m), north face and northwest ridge; Huang Jin Feng (4,708m), southwest ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Sejong Reconnaissance
Before our attempt on Goromity (as reported elsewhere in this section), Hitoshi Onodera and I traveled to Kangding, en route ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Shaluli Shan and Daxue Shan, Various Ascents
For three months I traveled alone in Qinghai, Sichuan, and Yunnan, near the Tibet border, spending time with local inhabitants ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Nideng Gongga (5,690m), West Glacier and South Face
Our initial plan was to explore valleys and the previously unattempted mountains in the Xiangqiuqieke Massif. In particular we wanted ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Yangmolong (6,080m GPS), North Buttress
Reaching the summit of Yangmolong was the accumulation of three years’ effort. In 2009 we attempted the south side, but unseasonably ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Yangmolong and Jarjinjabo-Xiashe Massifs, Exploration
In May and June 2005 I undertook two treks over a six-week period, the objective being to expand on the exploration ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Minya Konka Range, Reddomain, North Face, 2010 attempt and 2011 success, Remember Chris; Jiazi, West Face, Liberal Dance; Xiao Gongga (Little Konka, 5,928m), South Face, Thrill
Zhou Peng and I spent October in the northwestern sector of the Minya Konka Range, arriving at base camp (4,300m) ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Grosvenor (6,376m), West Face, Black Wolves and Blue Poppies
Grosvenor is a striking mountain, an iconic pyramid with technical faces that allow no easy way up. The west face ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Mt Edgar (6,618m), North Face Attempt
In September and October 2010 our Russian team hoped to complete new routes on Edgar from the Nan Nem Guon Valley ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Grosvenor (6,376m), East Face; Edgar (6,618m), West Face Attempt
From mid-October to mid- November we were back in the Minya Konka Range for another attempt on Edgar by the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Daddomain (6,380m), Ame ni mo Makezu
Giri-Giri boys Fumitaka Ichimura, Ryo Masumoto, and Takaaki Nagato made the first ascent of the east face of Daddomain, although ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Siguniang (6,250m), Northwest Face, Ni Hen Piao Liang
Climbing with a friend is great. Climbing with four friends even better. We inevitably come away tired from cranking and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Siguniang (6,250m), South Face, Liberation
From November 10 to 13, Li Zhongli and I made an alpine-style ascent of the south face of Siguniang (Yaomei Feng), the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Goromity (5,609m), Attempts
Goromity (local name Riyucaibao), toward the southern end of the Siguniang Shan, is the highest unclimbed mountain in the range. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Unnamed Peak (5,321m), Attempt
During February 2011 Darryl Kralovic and I attempted a 5,321m peak in the Yulong Xueshan. This is the easternmost prominent peak ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Smaug (ca 5,000m)
On December 17, 2010 Darryl Kralovic and I climbed a previously unnamed peak in the Yulong Xueshan, the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012