American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

367 Records

Title Publication Year
Kvaloya Island, Blammanen (861m), North Face, Various Free Ascents, Peter Pan, and Febris
Last summer I had to work almost every day to finance my studies, but the sun is up all night, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Kvaloya Island, Blammanen (861m), North Face, Bongo Bar, First Free Ascent
During our stay in Kvaloya, Donald King, Julia Snihur, and I climbed some established classics, which are as good as ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Kara-kaya West, Southwest Face
I love first ascents. You climb with no hurry and in good company. You think creatively, choosing the line. You ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Ushba (4,710m), South Pillar, Harakternik
Ukrainians Igor Chaplinsky, Michel Formin, and Vitali Todorenko climbed directly up the famous south pillar of Ushba, adding 130m of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Gunt and Sizdh Valleys, Various Ascents
In approximately one month Darren Benton, Jesse Burkhardt, Mikey Church, Jim Donini, Jennifer Flemming, Chris Weidner, and I completed first ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Mayakovsky (6,096m), South Face, Czech Route
On September 5 Antonin Borovka, Josef Krena, and I climbed the south face of Pik Mayakovsky (Qullai Mayakovskiy), a mountain in ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Pik Moscow Olympic Games (5,883m), South Ridge
The Saryshitcharv River flows south 20km from the Shakhdara Range to meet the Oxus River at the village of Shitcharv, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Oibala Range, First Ascents
In July and August, Saskia Groen, Vincent van Beek, Bas Visscher, and I explored a little-known range in the eastern ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Fergana and Borkoldoy, Various Ascents
The Northern Borkoldoy has a staggering collection of gnarly looking peaks topping out at just under 5,000m. The 4x4 journey ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Pik Vernyi (5,250m), North Summit, Cztery Pory Roku
On August 13 and l4 Andrzej Sokolowski and I established a new route on the north summit of Pik Vernyi. We ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Great Walls of China, East Face, Quantum of Solace
After two failed attempts with Wolfgang Russegger and Thomas Senf during our 2010 expedition to the southeast face of Kyzyl Asker (5,842...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Pik Oleg (4,859m), Arbuz; Pik Byeliy (5,697m), South Ridge; Other Ascents and Ski Descents
Our group of eight was inspired by photographs provided by Paul Knott, who visited this area in 2005 (AAJ 2006). We had ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Pik Eggemenduluk (5,210m), Northeast Face and North Ridge; 28 Hours Later and Brothers Chechel; Pik Lyell (4,864m), East Flank, Ambitious but Rubbish; Pik Georgina (4,631m) East Flank; Pik Annika (4,685m), East Flan
In 2009 Edward Lemon and I formed part of a team that was the first to venture to the lower Sarychat ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Djangart Range: Pik Emma, North Ridge; Pik Laetitia, Southwest Couloir and Northwest Face; Pik 5,318m, West Face Attempt
Inspired by the 2010 Anglo-American expedition (AAJ 2011), Richard Tremellen and I set off in July for the remarkably unexplored Djangart region. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Rakhmat (5,144m), North Face and Northeast Ridge; Pik 4,887m, West Face and South Ridge; Tushunbodum (5,081m), North Face
Armed with much useful information provided by Mike Royer after his expedition to the region in 2010 (AAJ 2011), we traveled from ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Pik Alexandra (5,290m), Pik Pernille (5,190m), Pik Lea (4,950m), Pik Kathryn (4,885m)
Our seven-man team was inspired to visit the Djangart region after reading a report in AAJ 2011 by the Anglo-American expedition ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Pik Prezhevalskogo (6,240m), North Face
Boris Dedeshko and I reached the North Inylchek Glacier on foot from Bayancol with all our gear. Our goal was ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Pik Pobeda (7,439m), North Face, Dollar Rod
After our ascent of Przhevalskogo , the plan was for Boris Dedeshko and I to traverse over Khan Tengri (6,995m) to ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Khan Tengri (6,995m), Southeast Ridge Integral
Looking through descriptions of routes on Khan Tengri, we two were surprised to find that the southeast ridge, the longest ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Ibex Horn, West Face-North Face
In 2010 I went to the Koh-e-Baba to explore cool-looking rock towers. Though I was able to reach two summits, East ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Introduction/Overview
Two expeditions are known to have climbed 7,492m Noshaq by the “normal route” up the west ridge. Summiting on August 4 ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Mandaras Valley, M3 (6,109m), South Ridge
In recent years the north side of the High Hindu Kush has again become accessible to climbers. There are beautiful ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Jurm Valley, Koh-e-Sauze (5,680m on Russian Map), Second Ascent
Only 16km wide at its narrowest, the Wakhan Corridor is an obscure panhandle of land giving Afghanistan a tiny border ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Asia, Afghanistan, Hindu Kush, Koh-e-Baba-Tangi (6,516m), Northwest Ridge and First Traverse
Koh-e-Baba-Tangi (6,516m), northwest ridge and first traverse. Sisters Christine Byrch and Pat Deavoll made the second ascent of Koh-e-Baba-Tangi (Jade ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Ghujerab Mountains, First Koksil Glacier, Peaks 5,636m, 5,609m, and 5,626m
First Koksil Glacier, Peaks 5,636m, 5,609m, and 5,626m. From August 8 to 19 Frank Gasser, from Italy, and Katarzyna Karwecka-Wielicka, Krzysztof Wielicki, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Ghujerab Mountains, Koksil Sar I (6,176m, Polish Map; 6,152m GPS), West Flank and Northwest Ridge; Koksil Sar II (5,909m GPS), West Ridge; Koksil Sar III (5,888m GPS), Southeast Flank
Koksil Sar I (6,176m, Polish Map; 6,152m GPS), west flank and northwest ridge; Koksil Sar II (5,909m GPS), west ridge; ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Various Ascents and Attempts from Hushe, Charakusa, Kande, and Atoshar Valleys
Between July 15 and September 3 the Federacion Espanola de Deportes de Montana y Escalada (FEDME) organized two expeditions to the Hushe ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
K7 West (6,615m), Northwest Face, Dreamers of Golden Caves
You never forget your first Himalayan experience . Charakusa was mine. Our first problem was visas. We were unable to obtain ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Asia, Pakistan, Masherbrum Range, Fida Brakk, Northwest Ridge, Jenga Spur
Fida Brakk, northwest ridge, Jenga Spur. “Isn’t there anywhere else you can climb?” “Good to have known you.” Reactions ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Charakusa Valley, Hassin (Hassan) Peak (ca 6,300m)
The Charakusa Valley is an alpine-climbing candy store, offering steep rock routes and technical mixed faces on some of the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Asia, Pakistan, Masherbrum Range, K6 Group, Changi Tower (ca 6,500m), Northwest Ridge, Attempt
K6 Group, Changi Tower (ca 6,500m), northwest ridge, attempt. In July 2010 Andrzej Gluszek, Piotr Sztaba, and I, from Poland, visited ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Khane Valley Exploration
Between September 10 and 22, Doychin Boyanov, Mihail Mihaylov, and I explored the Khane Valley to investigate possibilities for big wall routes ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Asia, India, East Karakoram, Junai Kangri, West Face and South Ridge
Junai Kangri, west face and south ridge. On August 22 Francisco Ferrero, Juan G. Hernandez, Jose C. Llamas, and I, from ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Asia, India, East Karakoram, Saser Kangri II (7,518m), Southwest Face
Saser Kangri II (7,518m), southwest face. Americans Mark Richey, Steve Swenson, and Freddie Wilkinson made the first ascent of the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Asia, India, East Karakoram, South Shukpa Kungchang Glacier, Various Ascents
South Shukpa Kungchang Glacier, various ascents. In December 2009 Mark Richey e-mailed a photo of a beautiful gray granite rock peak ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Asia, India, Zanskar, Reru Valley, Various Ascents
Two flights, three days of bum-bruising off-road driving, and two days of scenic hiking brought us to our base camp (4,600...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Asia, India, Zanskar, Reru Valley, Various Ascents
Reru Valley, various ascents. In August nine young climbers from Geneva, with guides Stéfane Schaffer and I, climbed three ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Asia, India, Zanskar, Lenak and Giabul Valleys, Exploration
Lenak and Giabul Valleys, exploration. In 2009 our group explored the Reru Valley, taking photographs of virgin peaks and producing a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Cerro Kishtwar, West Face and South Ridge, Yoniverse; White Sapphire (6,040m), West Face, La Virée des Contemporains
At the end of September Denis Burdet (Swiss), David Lama (Austrian), Stefan Siegrist (Swiss), and American photographer Robert Frost made ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh, Miyar Valley, "Mont Maudit", Northwest Face and North Ridge
“Mont Maudit”, northwest face and north ridge. Many road blocks caused by landslides delayed arrival in the Miyar Valley, resulting ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh, Miyar Valley, Various Ascents
Miyar Valley, various ascents. Thanks to good preparation, a few spells of good weather, and staying healthy throughout the expedition, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Asia, India, Lahaul, Chandra Bhaga Group: Daund (5,565m); Hora East (ca 5,250m); Pagoda East East (ca 5,750m), East Ridge; Tara Pahar (6,227m), East Ridge Attempt
Chandra Bhaga Group: Daund (5,565m); Hora East (ca 5,250m); Pagoda East East (ca 5,750m), east ridge; Tara Pahar (6,227m), east ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Asia, India, Lahaul, Ache and Chemma
Ache and Chemma. The Tokai section of the Japanese Alpine Club (JAC Tokai) has made 11 expeditions to the Indian Himalaya ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Asia, India, Kinnaur, Shoshala (ca 4,700m), Trishul Direct
Shoshala (ca 4,700m), Trishul Direct. In spring 2010 Frederic Nicole, Bernd Zangerl, and I were exploring the Kinnaur region for new ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Asia, India, Western Garhwal, Gangotri, Meru Central (6,310m), East Pillar (a.k.a Shark's Fin)
Meru Central (6,310m), East Pillar (a.k.a Shark’s Fin). Americans Conrad Anker, Jimmy Chin and Renan Ozturk completed ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Bhagirathi III, The Seed of Madness (not to summit)
Roberto delle Monache and I hoped to repeat the Spanish route, Impossible Star (1,300m, 28 pitches, UIAA VI A3+, Aldeguer-Martinez-Moreno-Tomas, 1984), on ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Dudh Ganga Col (5,350m) and Deotoli Col (5,400m), First Ascents
Lhakpa Sherpa, Nandan Singh Negi, Pemba Sherpa, Thendup Sherpa, and I reached a previously unvisited col on the ridge north ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Asia, India, Kumaun, Changuch (6,322m), Northwest Ridge from South
Changuch (6,322m), northwest ridge from south. Before 2009 Changuch was attempted unsuccessfully three times from the south, via the Pindari Glacier. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
In the Footsteps of John Claude White and Photography of Unclimbed Peaks
From March 9 to 22 Indians Anindya Mukherjee and Thendup Sherpa made the first upstream trek along the Ronggyaong and Rukel River ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Asia, India, Sikkim, Kangchenjunga Himal, Zemu Gap (5,861m), First Documented Ascent from the South
Kangchenjunga Himal, Zemu Gap (5,861m), first documented ascent from the south. Reaching Zemu Gap from the south proved a long-standing ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012