American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

367 Records

Title Publication Year
South America, Argentina, Northern Andes, Puna de Atacama, Cordon de los Pioneros, Various Ascents
Cordon de los Pioneros, various ascents. In December our group climbed previously virgin summits in this range, south of Pico ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Cerro Mercedario (6,770m), East Face, A Contramano
During November 2010 Fernando Daneri (Argentina) and Edgardo Liberman (Panamá, but resident in Buenos Aires) climbed a new route, A Contramano (1,300...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Pico Polaco (Cerro de los Polacos, ca 6,000m), Southeast Face, Acecho Felino
While the highest peak in the Ramada is Mercedario, the most attractive is Polaco, immediately south. In January Javier Giuliani, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
South America, Argentina, Central Andes, Aconcagua, South Face, Alpine-style Ascent of French Direct, with Variation
Aconcagua, south face, alpine-style ascent of French Direct, with variation. December 20 Andres Zegers (Chile) and I are at the Plaza ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Cordon del Plata, Cerro Vallecitos (5,475m), East Face, De Paso…Canazo
On September 23 Luciano Fiorenza and Pablo Pontoriero (Argentina) opened an important new route on the impressive east face of Cerro ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Cerro Plata (5,968m), East Face, Falto la Gorda
Cerro Plata is the highest summit of the Cordon del Plata and for a long time was considered to be ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Cerro Manantiales (5,100m), South Face, Direct a la Cubetera
In Mendoza’s Tunuyán region, Diego Molina and Fernando Martinez made an interesting exploration on the south west face ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
South America, Argentina, Central Andes, Various volcanoes, nontechnical ascents
Various volcanoes, nontechnical ascents. Shortly after the New Year Jonathan Kreiss-Tomkins (U.S.) and partner made the first ascent of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
South America, Argentina, Southern Patagonia, Sierra de Sangra, Cerro Cocoví (2,155m), North Flank
Sierra de Sangra, Cerro Cocoví (2,155m), north flank. The Sierra de Sangra includes an icefield of ca 100km2, east of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Various Routes
Apart from ascents reported in detail below, two new routes were climbed on the south face of Aguja De l’...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
South America, Argentina, Southern Patagonia, Chalten Massif, Aguja Standhardt (2,730m), South Face, First Complete Ascent via El Caracol; Other Ascents
Aguja Standhardt (2,730m), south face, first complete ascent via El Caracol; other ascents. In 1977, when Aguja Standhardt was the most ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
South America, Argentina, Southern Patagonia, Chalten Massif, Torre Egger (2,850m), West Face, Attempt
Torre Egger (2,850m), west face, attempt. In December 2011 and January 2012 Matteo Bernasconi and Matteo della Bordella made attempts to climb ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Torre Egger (2,850m), South Face, Venas Azules
Norwegians Bjorn-Eivind Aartun and Ole Lied climbed a spectacular ice route on the left side of the steep south face ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
South America, Argentina, Southern Patagonia, Chalten Massif, Cordon Adel–Cerro Torre Traverse
Cordon Adela-Cerro Torre traverse. In a seven-day roundtrip from Chalten during January 2012, Agustin and Juan Raselli and I made a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
South America, Argentina, Southern Patagonia, Chalten Massif, Aguja Guillaumet (2,579m), West Face, Patagonian Werewolfs
Aguja Guillaumet (2,579m), west face, Patagonian Werewolfs. Back in Chalten, after all my compatriots from Poincenot had left, I befriended ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
South America, Argentina, Southern Patagonia, Chalten Massif, Aguja Guillaumet (2,579m), West Face, Manos al Cielo
Aguja Guillaumet (2,579m), west face, Manos al Cielo. My friend Cheyne Lempe had never been to Patagonia. He’d never ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
South America, Argentina, Southern Patagonia, Chalten Massif, Aguja Val Biois, Mi Mundo de Contradicciones; Fitz Roy (3,405m), Pilar Goretta, Crux del Sur; Aguja de la Silla (2,938m), Destreza Criolla
Aguja Val Biois, Mi Mundo de Contradicciones; Fitz Roy (3,405m), Pilar Goretta, Crux del Sur; Aguja de la Silla (2,938m), ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Mermoz (2,723m) Northwest Ridge, to Fitz Roy (3,405m), North Pillar, Link-up
I opened my eyes to see the wall above us glowing in frozen predawn. Cheyne and I had laid down ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
South America, Argentina, Southern Patagonia, Chalten Massif, Poincenot, Southwest Face, Rise of the Machines
Poincenot, southwest face, Rise of the Machines. Over the years Jens Holsten, Mikey Schaefer, and I spent hours studying a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
South America, Argentina, Southern Patagonia, Chalten Massif, Aguja Poincenot (3,002m), Southeast Face, Via Russo
Aguja Poincenot (3,002m), southeast face, Via Russo. In 2011 Sergey Dashkevitch (29), Arkadiy Seregin (52), and I (45) attempted a new route on the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Antarctica, Ellsworth Mountains, Sentinel Range, Vinson Massif, Summary
The online version of these reports frequently contains additional photos, maps, topos, and extended text. Please visit aaj.americanalpineclub.org ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Antarctica, Heritage Range, Mt. Spörli (2,253m), Northeast Face
Mt. Spörli (2,253m), northeast face. Climbers were again active among the small peaks around Union Glacier, due to ALE’...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Antarctica, Antarctic Peninsula, Amundsen Peak; Island Traverses; Mt. Rendu
Amundsen Peak; island traverses; Mt Rendu. To commemorate Roald Amundsen’s team reaching the South Pole on December 14,1911, the Spirit ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Cierva Cove, Various Ascents
During previous trips to the Peninsula I had noticed a number of steep and distinct mountains east of Cierva Cove, 80...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Antarctica, Queen Maud Land, Overview
Overview. Experienced Antarctic climber Patrick Degerman made his second visit to the area, climbing several minor peaks in the Wohlthat ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Antarctica, Executive Committee Range, Mount Sidley (4,285m), Fifth Ascent and Correction
Mount Sidley (4,285m), fifth ascent and correction. The highest peak in the range got its fifth ascent, by veteran guide ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Antarctica, Bouvetoya, Olatoppen (774m), First True Ascent
Olavtoppen (774m), first true ascent. The sub-Antarctic island of Bouvetoya is the most isolated piece of land on the planet, 1,740...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Nordenskjold
Richard Spillett and I left the Falkland Islands in mid-November aboard Skip Novak’s vessel Pelagic Australis, which was to ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Alam Kuh (4,805m) and Damavand (5,610m), AAC Exchange
On June 5, 13 Americans, forming the second part of an exchange between the AAC and the Alpine Club of Iran (ACI), ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Toubkal Region, Afella (4,105m), Southeast Face, Fountain Gully
On January 3 James Mehigan, Olly Metherell, and Andrew Stokes-Rees made the first ascent of Fountain Gully on Afella in the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Kvaloya Island, Blammanen (861m), North Face, Various Free Ascents, Peter Pan, and Febris
Last summer I had to work almost every day to finance my studies, but the sun is up all night, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Kvaloya Island, Blammanen (861m), North Face, Bongo Bar, First Free Ascent
During our stay in Kvaloya, Donald King, Julia Snihur, and I climbed some established classics, which are as good as ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Kara-kaya West, Southwest Face
I love first ascents. You climb with no hurry and in good company. You think creatively, choosing the line. You ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Ushba (4,710m), South Pillar, Harakternik
Ukrainians Igor Chaplinsky, Michel Formin, and Vitali Todorenko climbed directly up the famous south pillar of Ushba, adding 130m of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Gunt and Sizdh Valleys, Various Ascents
In approximately one month Darren Benton, Jesse Burkhardt, Mikey Church, Jim Donini, Jennifer Flemming, Chris Weidner, and I completed first ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Mayakovsky (6,096m), South Face, Czech Route
On September 5 Antonin Borovka, Josef Krena, and I climbed the south face of Pik Mayakovsky (Qullai Mayakovskiy), a mountain in ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Pik Moscow Olympic Games (5,883m), South Ridge
The Saryshitcharv River flows south 20km from the Shakhdara Range to meet the Oxus River at the village of Shitcharv, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Oibala Range, First Ascents
In July and August, Saskia Groen, Vincent van Beek, Bas Visscher, and I explored a little-known range in the eastern ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Fergana and Borkoldoy, Various Ascents
The Northern Borkoldoy has a staggering collection of gnarly looking peaks topping out at just under 5,000m. The 4x4 journey ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Pik Vernyi (5,250m), North Summit, Cztery Pory Roku
On August 13 and l4 Andrzej Sokolowski and I established a new route on the north summit of Pik Vernyi. We ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Great Walls of China, East Face, Quantum of Solace
After two failed attempts with Wolfgang Russegger and Thomas Senf during our 2010 expedition to the southeast face of Kyzyl Asker (5,842...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Pik Oleg (4,859m), Arbuz; Pik Byeliy (5,697m), South Ridge; Other Ascents and Ski Descents
Our group of eight was inspired by photographs provided by Paul Knott, who visited this area in 2005 (AAJ 2006). We had ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Pik Eggemenduluk (5,210m), Northeast Face and North Ridge; 28 Hours Later and Brothers Chechel; Pik Lyell (4,864m), East Flank, Ambitious but Rubbish; Pik Georgina (4,631m) East Flank; Pik Annika (4,685m), East Flan
In 2009 Edward Lemon and I formed part of a team that was the first to venture to the lower Sarychat ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Djangart Range: Pik Emma, North Ridge; Pik Laetitia, Southwest Couloir and Northwest Face; Pik 5,318m, West Face Attempt
Inspired by the 2010 Anglo-American expedition (AAJ 2011), Richard Tremellen and I set off in July for the remarkably unexplored Djangart region. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Rakhmat (5,144m), North Face and Northeast Ridge; Pik 4,887m, West Face and South Ridge; Tushunbodum (5,081m), North Face
Armed with much useful information provided by Mike Royer after his expedition to the region in 2010 (AAJ 2011), we traveled from ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Pik Alexandra (5,290m), Pik Pernille (5,190m), Pik Lea (4,950m), Pik Kathryn (4,885m)
Our seven-man team was inspired to visit the Djangart region after reading a report in AAJ 2011 by the Anglo-American expedition ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Pik Prezhevalskogo (6,240m), North Face
Boris Dedeshko and I reached the North Inylchek Glacier on foot from Bayancol with all our gear. Our goal was ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Pik Pobeda (7,439m), North Face, Dollar Rod
After our ascent of Przhevalskogo , the plan was for Boris Dedeshko and I to traverse over Khan Tengri (6,995m) to ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Khan Tengri (6,995m), Southeast Ridge Integral
Looking through descriptions of routes on Khan Tengri, we two were surprised to find that the southeast ridge, the longest ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Ibex Horn, West Face-North Face
In 2010 I went to the Koh-e-Baba to explore cool-looking rock towers. Though I was able to reach two summits, East ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012