American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

367 Records

Title Publication Year
Preface, Partners and Colleagues
Truth be told, Kelly Cordes didn’t really want to work with me. My very first task as the new ...
AAJ
Editorials And Prefaces
2012
Recon: Titcomb Basin, Spanning 80 Miles of the Continental Divide, Wyoming's Wind River Mountains Hold Some of America's Favorite Wilderness Rock. The Southern Granite is Famous. The North? Have a Look for Yourself
Recon: Titcomb Basin Spanning 80 miles of the Continental Divide, Wyoming’s Wind River Mountains bold some of America’s favorite ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2012
The Shark's Fin Redux, Success at Last on Meru Central's Spectacular Shark's Fin, India
The Shark’s Fin Redux Success at last on Meru Central’s spectacular Shark’s Fin, India. Jimmy Chin The ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2012
On Darwin's Edge
“Three hundred days of storm and the other 65 not pleasant.” - Alberto De Agostini, describing the Cordillera Darwin Range after ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2012
Cerro Torre Rebooted
In one week last January, the most beautiful spire in the world saw two historic ascents. It also experienced more ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2012
By Fair Means, The First Ascent of the Southeast Ridge of Cerro Torre Without Maestri's Bolts
By Fair Means The first ascent of the southeast ridge of Cerro Torre without Maestri's bolts. Hayden Kennedy My mind ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2012
Cerro Torre Free, By an Accident of Timing, the Long-coveted First Free Ascent of the Southeast Ridge of Cerro Torre Takes Place Without Maestri's Bolts as Protection
Cerro Torre Free By an accident of timing, the long-coveted first free ascent of the southeast ridge of Cerro Torre ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2012
Venas Azules
I was suspended in the shade, clenching my upper ice tool with both hands. Behind me, the north face of ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2012
The Mausoleum
From 377 to 353 B.C., the city of Halicarnassus on the shores of the Aegean Sea was ruled by a king ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2012
Continuing Education
I first laid eyes on 14,470-foot University Peak in 2007. Daily views of the massive south face from low on the ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2012
Baba Tangi, A Team of Sisters Makes the First Ascent of the Northwest Ridge of Koh-e-Baba-Tangi (6,516m), Afghanistan
Baba Tangi A team of sisters makes the first ascent of the northwest ridge of Koh-e-Baba-Tangi (6,516m), Afghanistan. Pat Deavoll ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2012
The Old Breed
When we first saw Saser Kangri, in 2001, we didn’t even know its name. My partner Mark Wilford and I ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2012
North America, United States, Washington, Cascades Summary
Cascades summary. It was another good snow year in the Cascades. After a stable period in February, cool and snowy ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
North America, United States, Washington, Pasayten Wilderness, Amphitheater Peak, Cathedral Peak, Deacon Peak, Three New Routes
Pasayten Wilderness, Amphitheater Peak, Cathedral Peak, Deacon Peak, three new routes. Alpine climbing, especially new routing, can be an uncomfortable, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
North America, United States, Washington, Mix-up Peak, The Misunderstanding
Mix-up Peak, The Misunderstanding. On October 25 Forest McBrian, Dave Jordan, and I established a new line on Mix-up Peak in ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
North America, United States, Washington, Hai Tower, Diggin' for Dreams
Hai Tower, Diggin’ for Dreams. The Half Moon, Choi Oy, and Hai Tower massif forms a giant open book, easily ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Tower Mountain, Tower of Babble
Rolf Larson and I bushwhacked up Swamp Creek on September 4, aiming for a new route on the northeast face of 8,444...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
A.A.C., Deep South Section
Sloan Peak, Full Moon Fever. Sloan Peak has been described as the “Matterhorn of the Cascades” because of its commanding ...
AAJ
Club Activities
2012
North America, United States, Washington, Inspiration Peak, Northeast Buttress
Inspiration Peak, Northeast Buttress. In August 1996 Dana Hagin and I climbed the Northeast Buttress of Inspiration Peak in the Southern ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
North America, United States, Washington, Colchuck Peak, Northeast Face, Hilden-Holsten
Colchuck Peak, northeast face, Hilden-Holsten. In late January 2011 Jens Holsten and I climbed a new route on the northeast face ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
North America, United States, Washington, Dragontail Peak, Chasin' Tail
Dragontail Peak, Chasiri Tail. On July 24, Adam Lawson and I picked our way through eight new pitches (two were long ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
North America, United States, Washington, Mt. Adams, Adams Headwall Variation
Mt. Adams, Adams Headwall variation. It is a testament to E1 Nino and an open-minded approach to ice climbing that ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Liberty Cap, The Patriot Act
Liberty Cap called us back for another round after we added Scarface in 2010. Starting halfway out the traverse ledge, in ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Merriam Peak, North Buttress, Two New Routes
Late last summer Lisa Rand and I headed up from the old mine ruins in Pine Creek to the high ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Disappearing Dome, Disappearing in Plain Sight
Disappearing Dome, Disappearing in Plain Sight. In July Hunter Sibbald and I climbed a new route on Disappearing Dome, in ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Dana Plateau, The Sauce Bone Arête
In September Patrick Dougherty and I climbed a great new 800-foot route on the Dana Plateau. The 2011 AAJ reported a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Bear Creek Spire, Jamaica Say You Will
In September Mike Dahlquist and I climbed a new route on the south face of Bear Creek Spire. The routes ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, High Sierra, The Overlooked Middle
High Sierra, the overlooked middle. I don’t get it. The High Sierra has largely been ignored for new routes ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Evolution Traverse, First Winter Ascent
The Evolution Traverse takes a line along the crest of the Evolution group, linking nine 13,000’ peaks named after contributors to ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
North America, United States, Utah, Green River, Desolation Canyon, The Siren
Green River, Desolation Canyon, The Siren. In April Josh Thompson, Andrew Gram, Lena Laakso, and I put in at Sand ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
North America, United States, Utah, Fisher Towers, Cottontail Tower, Trick of the Tail
Fisher Towers, Cottontail Tower, Trick of the Tail. From September 9 to 12, Jeremy Aslaksen and I climbed a new route on ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
North America, United States, Montana, Hyalite and Yellowstone, New Ice Climbs
Hyalite and Yellowstone, new ice climbs. Hyalite Canyon is our gym here in southwest Montana, with world-class ice that’s ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
New Routes on Elephant Head, Fremont Peak, and Mt. Sacagawea
Of all the ranges round the world, the Wind River Mountains, right in my backyard, remain one of my favorites. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
I Think Therefore I Ambush
Nestled deep in the Wind River Range at the upper end of the East Fork Valley, Ambush’s east face ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
The Candy Shop
Our five-pitch variation to the Northwest Face of Warrior I stemmed from an attempt to gain the stunning right-facing dihedral ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
North America, United States, Colorado, Black Canyon of the Gunnison, North Chasm View Wall, Hallucinogen Wall, First Free Ascent
North Chasm View Wall, Hallucinogen Wall, first free ascent. When Ben Lepesant asked if I’d be interested in climbing ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
The Guardian, Weather Window Waltz
In August 2011 Wesley Ashwood, Kelsey Sheely, and I put up a new line on the northeast face of the Guardian (13,617...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Deep in the Alaskan Bush
In mid-April photographer Corey Rich asked if I wanted to join a 10-day climbing trip in the Brooks Range with ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Elephant's Tooth, North Pillar; Parabola, South Face, Possible First Ascents
Ten years ago I tried to climb in the Arrigetch but failed to do anything, because of rain. I returned ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Mt. Geist (3,269m/10,720'), Northeast Face, Possible New Route
The idea of going to the Hayes Range developed after we did some digging on the Internet and made a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park, Denali National Park and Preserve Summary
Denali National Park and Preserve summary. Sadly, nine climbers died in the Alaska Range during 2011, making it the third deadliest ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Denali, Lower Southwest Face, Dad and Son
My 23-year-old son Denali felt compelled to climb his namesake. While he was studying in San Francisco, he told me ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park, West Kahiltna Peak (3,914m/12,835'), West Ridge
West Kahiltna Peak (3,914m/12,835'), west ridge. West Kahiltna Peak is just off of the Kahiltna Glacier, and every West ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Mt. Hunter, North Buttress to Cornice Bivouac, the Cartwright Connection
Unrelenting spindrift avalanches and gusty winds blasted and buffeted the portaledge. Our small cocoon of safety on this harsh mountain ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Voyager Peak (12,213'), South Face, To the Center
In the first week of May, Mark Allen and I set up base camp at Kahiltna International, then headed off ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park, Ruth Gorge, Barrill (2,332m/7,650'), Northeast Face, Alaskan Primer
Ruth Gorge, Barrill (2,332m/7,650'), northeast face, Alaskan Primer. On May 13 Ben Gilmore and Hans Johnstone climbed a new route ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
North America, United States, Alaska, Revelation Mountains, Mt. Mausolus (9,170'), First Ascent
Mt. Mausolus (9,170'), first ascent. From March 15 to 17 Clint Helander and Scotty Vincik made the first ascent of Mt. Mausolus. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Mystery Mountain, Northeast Ridge, Where's the Gas; Dog Tooth
On May 26 Ben Chriswell, Sam Johnson, and I flew to the Pitchfork Glacier. The Neacolas are a largely unexplored group ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Mt. Yukla (2,297m/7,535'), North Face, No Call, No Show
In October John Kelley and I headed back to Mt. Yukla to climb the North Couloir and check out an ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012
Mt. Yukla (2,297m/7,535'), North Face, Most People Are DJs
On October 10 local Anchorage climber John Kelley and I walked to the north face of Mt. Yukla, via Icicle Creek, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2012