American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

365 Records

Title Publication Year
Suiricocha, Manon Dos, Vicunita, New Routes
Over the course of a week in the Cordillera Central in late May, Beto Pinto and I opened three new ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Illimani, Deliver Me
At the end of July, Florian Hill (Austria and Germany) and Robert Rauch (Bolivia and Germany) began climbing new ice, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Serkhe Khollu, Chamaka
From our base camp on the glimmering shores of Sirki Khota Lake, Robert Rauch, Stefan Berger, and I spotted a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Cordillera Quimsa Cruz, Monte Rosa, Minute Men, and Saturno, Plaza Alonso de Mendoza
The northern fringe of the Quimsa Cruz comprises Bolivia’s stash of alpine granite. North of the mining town of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Ansilta 4, Seis Hermanos
On September 19, during Argentina’s dry 2010 winter, in the remote and little-visited Cordillera Ansilta, located 250km north of Mendoza and 50...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Ramada Range, Pico Polaco North, Cheto Alpino
On Tuesday, October 5, with the great enthusiasm and motivation of Ivan “Topo” Rocamora, we left his flat in Mendoza for ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Aconcagua (6,962m), 2010–2011 overview
This season fewer people visited Aconcagua and the weather was bad, with many days of snowfall. Unfortunately, there were six ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Chimbote, First Ascent
Chimbote sits about 100km east of Santiago, near Mt. Polleras and the Tupungato Volcano. Despite many attempts since 1944, it remained ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Pico Navarro Norte, First Winter Ascent and Possible New Route
Named after a famous miner from the 19th century who discovered gold and copper, the beautiful Navarro Valley is situated ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Cerro Palo Plantado, Southwest Ridge
The weekend of June 4-5, the G.A.M (Grupo de Alta Montaña) de los Perros Alpinos went to ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Cerro Tronador, Pico Internacional, Finito Sur
In October, Argentines Tomy Aguiló and Luciano Fiorenza ascended this ca 3,500m mountain near Bariloche, Argentina, by a new route ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Cochamó, Pared de Profetas, Prophecy
Stefan Brunner and I, spent three weeks together in the Cochamó Valley at the end of January and beginning of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Cochamó, Pared de Profetas, Las Venas Cerradas de America Latina
Escaping from Torres del Paine’s awful weather, German Kevin Bartke and I landed in Valle Cochamó in late February, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Valle Pirita, Pirita Right, Under a Southern Star, Valle Mariposa, Various Activity
Leeches, carnivorous bees, hacking through thick bamboo jungle on the approach: these are not what come to mind when you ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Chalten Massif, Summary
The biggest news of the 2010–11 season, not in the individual reports below, was the “fair-means” attempt to climb the Southeast ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Cerro Pollone, A Fine Place, Variation to Summit, and First Traverse
In February 2011, Scott Bennett and I started 45m up and left from the toe of Cerro Pollones west pillar, climbing ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Cerro Pollone, East Face, First Ascent, Re Puesto!
Foregoing Chalten’s legendary New Year’s Eve fiesta, Neil Kauffman and I launched into the hills. We caught a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Fitz Roy, Washington Route
Like so many good missions in Patagonia, it started with the painful task of changing our plane tickets. A possible ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Fitz Roy, East Face, Onsight Free Ascent
In a 36-hour roundtrip push from base camp on February 19–20, 2011, Sean Villanueva and I made an onsight free ascent of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Aguja Desmochada, Circus Pets
At the beginning of February 2011, Peter Fasoldt, Carsten von Birckhahn, and I began a new route on the southeast face ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Aguja Desmochada, CoDa
In mid-February 2011, Neil Kauffman and I climbed a new route on Aguja Desmochada. After climbing the first five pitches of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
The Wave Effect (Desmochada, De la Silla, Fitz Roy Enchainment)
One tower at a time, Nate Opp, Josh Wharton, and I wanted to do it right. The Wave Effect started ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Torre Norte, East Face, Attempt
Felipe Gonzalez Donoso and I, both from Chile, climbed on the east face of Torre Norte in Torres del Paine ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Antarctica, Ellsworth Mountains, Vinson Massif Summary
The online version of these reports frequently contains additional photos, maps, topos, and extended text. Please visit aaj.americanalpineclub.org ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Antarctica, Heritage Range, Union Glacier, Various Ascents
Union Glacier, various ascents. This was the first full season of operations at ALE’s new camp on the south ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Antarctica, Marie Byrd Land, Executive Committee Range, Mt. Sidley (4,285m)
Mt. Sidley (4,285m). Nowadays, any climbing expedition to inland Antarctica, outside the Ellsworths, is significant. Mt. Sidley, highest peak in ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Antarctica, Antarctic Peninsula, Overview
Overview. The first team to visit the Peninsula during the season comprised Sergy Baranov, Rissa Bullock Ivory, Kris Erickson, Kip ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Antarctic Peninsula, Various Ascents
The 2010 Alpine Club expedition set sail on November 25 from Tierra del Fuego aboard the Australian yacht Spirit of Sydney, skippered ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Various Ski Descents
We demanded a lot from Stephen Wilkins, Australian owner and skipper of the yacht Xplore, which delivered us to the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Cappadocia, Kizilin Baci (2,944m), Northwest Face, Red, Moon, and Star
Rolando had talked about Ala Daglar for a couple of years, both for its rock faces and his friends Recep ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Oman, Al Hamra Towers
On February 8, 2010, Philippe Hourcle, Luc Pauget, and I put up Les Becs de Gaz pissaient leur Flamme au clair de ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Oman, Various Ascents
In January 2009 Olivier Cantet, Régine Lemaire, and Emmanuel Ratouis put up five new routes, and made two new canyon ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Asia, Oman, Jabal Yiti, Hassal Hidn Pillar, Jabal Kawr-Kawr Tower, Mawal Needle, Jabal Awi, Various Ascents
Jabal Yiti, Hassal Hidn Pillar, Jabal Kawr-Kawr Tower, Mawal Needle, Jabal Awi, various ascents. Drawn by an exotic fascination with ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Los Quemados, El Cardonal
Geographically in Africa, but politically in Spain, the island of Gran Canaria is home to a “mature” climbing area that ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Hand of Fatima, Suri Tondo, Southeast Face, Black and White
Black and White is a great new route on solid rock typical of the remarkable Hand of Fatima. The first ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Ennedi Desert, Various Ascents
On November 14 Jimmy Chin, Tim Kemple, Alex Honnold, Renan Ozturk, James Pearson (UK), and I arrived in N’Djamena, the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Kvaloya Island, Blammanen (861m), North Face, Luna
In late August Ole Ivar Lied and I climbed a new route toward the right side of Blammanen’s north ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Kvaloya Island, Blammanen (861m), Tingeling
In 2007, on a visit with Markus Haid, I managed the first one-day ascent of Arctandria on the north face of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Rundtinden, South Face, Stay Cool
In 2009 I climbed new routes in Lofoten (see AAJ 2010) and promised to return to Norway the following year. We did, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Rundtinden, South Face, Mispule
On July 1, the same day that the Svihalek brothers put up Stay Cool , Filip Zaoral and I climbed the huge ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Trollveggen, Arch Wall, First Free Ascent
The highlight of climbing activity in Norway during 2010 was undoubtedly the free ascent of Arch Wall on Romsdal’s iconic ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Europe, Norway, Sognefjord, Lady Momo
Lady Momo. Outer Sognefjord and Hoyanger provide a spectacular destination for ice climbing (Sognefjord is the largest fjord in Norway). ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Taban Bogdo Range, Russian Tent (4,117m), Northeast Couloir; Ak Alakha Range, Ak Alakha (3,650m), East Ridge
In September our Czech-Slovak expedition visited two areas of the southern Altai. We first traveled to the Taban Bogdo on ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Erydag Northwest (3,887m), Northwest Face, Voronin Route, First Free Ascent
In 2010 the Russian Championships were to be held in the Karavshin, but the events in Kyrgyzstan forced them to be ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Javakishvili (3,650m), Perseverance
During April, while Graham Dudley was making a ski ascent of Kazbek (Kasbegi, or more properly Mkinvartsveri, 5,034m) in the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Parandas (4,250m), Odessa Route, Bodhona (5,138m), West Face, Odessa Route
The main mountaineering development of the Fanskiy Mountains took place in the 1970s and early ’80s. After that, attention turned ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Parandas (4,250m) and Bodhana (5,138m), Maximenja Routes
From July 13–18 Alexander Maximenja from Minsk, Belarus, climbed a new route on Parandas. His route is situated to the left ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Talgar (4,973m), Northwest Face, South Talgar (4,950m), Southwest Face
For Almaty (Kazakhstan) climbers, the Zailiskiy Alatau in the northern Tien Shan is our most accessible mountain range and the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Pik 4,300m, Northwest Face, Discovery; Pik Svobodnaya Korea (4,778m) North Face, Balezin Route, First Alpine-Style and First Free Ascent; Pik Baylyan Bashi (4,720m), West Face, Long Way Home
These days I’m interested in making single push, alpine mixed climbs without using aid or fixed rope. Last winter ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Various Peaks Above the Karakol and Arpa Valleys
In July I returned to Kyrgyzstan for the third time, my main goal being to explore more of the Torugart-too ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011