American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

365 Records

Title Publication Year
Ummannaq Region, Pt. 2,280m, Ummannaq South, Southeast Face
In 2009 the 15m sailing vessel Gambo spent July and August supporting glaciological and oceanographic research on two major outlet glaciers ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Ummannaq Region, Various Ascents
Sam Doyle, Miles Hill, George Ullrich, and I formed the British Ummannaq Climbing Expedition. After flying to Kangerlussaq on July 27, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Paul Stern Land, Several First Ascents
After a first visit to the area in 2008 (see AAJ 2009), Robin Collins (Australia), Geoff Bonney (UK), Paul Walker (UK), my ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Rensland, Grundtvigskirchen (1,977m), East Face, Eventyr, Milne Land, Pt. 1,295m, North Pillar
An Italian-Swiss team comprising Simon Gietl, Daniel Kopp, Roger Schali, and photographer/climber Thomas Ulrich made the first ascent of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Schweizerland, Various Ascents
The 2010 Braunschweiger Grönlandexpedition flew to Kulusuk on July 12, and over the next two days traveled northeast by boat and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Tasermiut Fjord, Hermelnbjerg, East Face, The Corner of Mt. Fayette, Tininnertuup III, Midnight Children
In summer 2009 Calle Martins, Mattias Sellden, Martin Urby, and I from Sweden spent four weeks in the Hermelndal at the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Tasermiut Fjord, Half Dome, Dash-Friday Route, Second Ascent with Variants
Jindrich Mandat and I came to Tasermiut mainly to repeat existing routes. It was only after we had picked the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Pamiagdluk Island, Baroness, North Face, Blue Whale, Camp Peak, South Face Direct
As Sarah Garlick put it, “The dream was to gather a small team of friends and head somewhere unspoiled and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
North America, Greenland, South Coast, Torssukatak Fjord and Quvnerit Island, Five New Rock Routes
Torssukatak Fjord and Quvnerit Island, five new rock routes. After climbing four major new routes on the West Coast (see ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Adankasima Tepui, El Camino del Danto
The Adankasima Tepui, in the heart of the Bolivar State, is one of 13 tepuis comprising the Chimanta Massif. It is ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Acopan Tepui, Chicatino and Takamajaka
In March, German climbers Jens Richter, Tino Kohbach, Michael Baensch, and I, accompanied by Brits Tony and Sarah Whitehouse, spent ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Monte Roraima, Behind the Rainbow
You can still sense the excitement in Stefan Glowacz’s voice. During a short phone call last week, the adrenaline ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Morangma
In mid-September, three other guys and I flew to Georgetown, Guyana. None of us knew each other before leaving. It ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Pedra do Elefante, Saracura
After three years of attempts, on August 1, Helena Fagundes and Ralf Côrtes established Saracura (6° VII D4 E3 (BR), which ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Artesonraju, Southwest Face, Variation
On June 13, Michael Sanchez Adams (Chile) made a probable new variation (900m, D+ 70-80° M1/M2), solo, to the classic ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Vallunaraju, El Gran Mono
Peruvian climbers Beto Pinto, Rolando Morales, and Steven Fuentes left Huaraz at midday on July 8. After a two- hour drive ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Huantsan West, Les Trois Mousquetaires, Huantsan North, Illusion
From the Rajucolta Valley on July 20, Beto Pinto, Rolando Morales, and I crossed the moraine onto the glacier, navigated extensive ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Nevado Quillujirca, El Sueño de los Excluidos and La Teoría de la Gota de Agua
In the Rurec Valley, called by many climbers the “Little Yosemite” of the Andes, an Italian expedition opened two new ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Mituraju, West Face and Other Activity
Mituraju, west face and other activity. The Equipo Español de Alpinismo (Spanish Alpine Climbing Team) installed base camp at ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Huaguruncho, Llama Karma to Summit Ridge
Tony Barton and I returned to the Quebrada Huaguruncho after a two-year absence. Our objective was the first ascent of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Suiricocha, Manon Dos, Vicunita, New Routes
Over the course of a week in the Cordillera Central in late May, Beto Pinto and I opened three new ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Illimani, Deliver Me
At the end of July, Florian Hill (Austria and Germany) and Robert Rauch (Bolivia and Germany) began climbing new ice, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Serkhe Khollu, Chamaka
From our base camp on the glimmering shores of Sirki Khota Lake, Robert Rauch, Stefan Berger, and I spotted a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Cordillera Quimsa Cruz, Monte Rosa, Minute Men, and Saturno, Plaza Alonso de Mendoza
The northern fringe of the Quimsa Cruz comprises Bolivia’s stash of alpine granite. North of the mining town of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Ansilta 4, Seis Hermanos
On September 19, during Argentina’s dry 2010 winter, in the remote and little-visited Cordillera Ansilta, located 250km north of Mendoza and 50...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Ramada Range, Pico Polaco North, Cheto Alpino
On Tuesday, October 5, with the great enthusiasm and motivation of Ivan “Topo” Rocamora, we left his flat in Mendoza for ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Aconcagua (6,962m), 2010–2011 overview
This season fewer people visited Aconcagua and the weather was bad, with many days of snowfall. Unfortunately, there were six ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Chimbote, First Ascent
Chimbote sits about 100km east of Santiago, near Mt. Polleras and the Tupungato Volcano. Despite many attempts since 1944, it remained ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Pico Navarro Norte, First Winter Ascent and Possible New Route
Named after a famous miner from the 19th century who discovered gold and copper, the beautiful Navarro Valley is situated ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Cerro Palo Plantado, Southwest Ridge
The weekend of June 4-5, the G.A.M (Grupo de Alta Montaña) de los Perros Alpinos went to ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Cerro Tronador, Pico Internacional, Finito Sur
In October, Argentines Tomy Aguiló and Luciano Fiorenza ascended this ca 3,500m mountain near Bariloche, Argentina, by a new route ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Cochamó, Pared de Profetas, Prophecy
Stefan Brunner and I, spent three weeks together in the Cochamó Valley at the end of January and beginning of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Cochamó, Pared de Profetas, Las Venas Cerradas de America Latina
Escaping from Torres del Paine’s awful weather, German Kevin Bartke and I landed in Valle Cochamó in late February, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Valle Pirita, Pirita Right, Under a Southern Star, Valle Mariposa, Various Activity
Leeches, carnivorous bees, hacking through thick bamboo jungle on the approach: these are not what come to mind when you ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Chalten Massif, Summary
The biggest news of the 2010–11 season, not in the individual reports below, was the “fair-means” attempt to climb the Southeast ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Cerro Pollone, A Fine Place, Variation to Summit, and First Traverse
In February 2011, Scott Bennett and I started 45m up and left from the toe of Cerro Pollones west pillar, climbing ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Cerro Pollone, East Face, First Ascent, Re Puesto!
Foregoing Chalten’s legendary New Year’s Eve fiesta, Neil Kauffman and I launched into the hills. We caught a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Fitz Roy, Washington Route
Like so many good missions in Patagonia, it started with the painful task of changing our plane tickets. A possible ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Fitz Roy, East Face, Onsight Free Ascent
In a 36-hour roundtrip push from base camp on February 19–20, 2011, Sean Villanueva and I made an onsight free ascent of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Aguja Desmochada, Circus Pets
At the beginning of February 2011, Peter Fasoldt, Carsten von Birckhahn, and I began a new route on the southeast face ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Aguja Desmochada, CoDa
In mid-February 2011, Neil Kauffman and I climbed a new route on Aguja Desmochada. After climbing the first five pitches of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
The Wave Effect (Desmochada, De la Silla, Fitz Roy Enchainment)
One tower at a time, Nate Opp, Josh Wharton, and I wanted to do it right. The Wave Effect started ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Torre Norte, East Face, Attempt
Felipe Gonzalez Donoso and I, both from Chile, climbed on the east face of Torre Norte in Torres del Paine ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Antarctica, Ellsworth Mountains, Vinson Massif Summary
The online version of these reports frequently contains additional photos, maps, topos, and extended text. Please visit aaj.americanalpineclub.org ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Antarctica, Heritage Range, Union Glacier, Various Ascents
Union Glacier, various ascents. This was the first full season of operations at ALE’s new camp on the south ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Antarctica, Marie Byrd Land, Executive Committee Range, Mt. Sidley (4,285m)
Mt. Sidley (4,285m). Nowadays, any climbing expedition to inland Antarctica, outside the Ellsworths, is significant. Mt. Sidley, highest peak in ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Antarctica, Antarctic Peninsula, Overview
Overview. The first team to visit the Peninsula during the season comprised Sergy Baranov, Rissa Bullock Ivory, Kris Erickson, Kip ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Antarctic Peninsula, Various Ascents
The 2010 Alpine Club expedition set sail on November 25 from Tierra del Fuego aboard the Australian yacht Spirit of Sydney, skippered ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Various Ski Descents
We demanded a lot from Stephen Wilkins, Australian owner and skipper of the yacht Xplore, which delivered us to the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Cappadocia, Kizilin Baci (2,944m), Northwest Face, Red, Moon, and Star
Rolando had talked about Ala Daglar for a couple of years, both for its rock faces and his friends Recep ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011